2013 Ford Taurus Fuel Pump: Symptoms, Replacement Costs and Solutions

The fuel pump in your 2013 Ford Taurus is a critical component responsible for delivering gasoline from the tank to the engine. When it fails, the car won't start or will run very poorly. Recognizing the signs of a failing pump early can save you from being stranded. Complete replacement is typically required, with costs ranging widely ($550-$1100+ USD) based on labor rates and parts choice.

Fuel pumps are electric or mechanical devices that transfer fuel. In the 2013 Ford Taurus, an electric fuel pump is used. This pump sits inside the fuel tank. Its main job is drawing gasoline from the tank. It then pushes this fuel through the fuel lines at high pressure. This high pressure is necessary for modern fuel injection systems. The fuel ultimately reaches the engine's fuel rail and injectors.

Like any mechanical or electrical part, the Taurus fuel pump wears out over time. Failure is common between 100,000 and 150,000 miles for many vehicles. Factors like frequent low fuel levels, dirty fuel, a failing fuel filter, or electrical issues can accelerate pump failure. Understanding its role is key to understanding the problems it causes when malfunctioning.

Recognizing Symptoms of a Failing 2013 Taurus Fuel Pump

Early identification of fuel pump problems is very important. A weak pump stresses the engine. Complete failure leaves you unable to start the car. These signs indicate a possible fuel pump issue:

• Engine Sputtering at High Speeds: A classic early symptom. The engine may run smoothly at low speeds. Under load or at higher speeds, it sputters or jerks. This happens because the weakened pump can't deliver enough fuel volume as demand increases. Other issues can cause sputtering, but combined with other symptoms, it points to fuel delivery.
• Loss of Power Under Load: Struggling to accelerate? Notice a significant drop in power when climbing hills or passing vehicles? This insufficient fuel delivery prevents the engine from producing its full power output. The engine feels sluggish and unresponsive, even if it idles fine.
• Engine Surging: An erratic pump may cause temporary, unexpected bursts of power. The vehicle might surge forward briefly without driver input on the accelerator pedal. This unpredictable behavior stems from irregular fuel pressure supplied to the injectors.
• Increased Engine Temperature: A misfiring or struggling engine often runs hotter than normal. While not a direct symptom of the pump itself, unexplained overheating coupled with fuel delivery symptoms suggests pump-related engine stress.
• Decreased Fuel Mileage: A pump struggling to maintain pressure can force the engine control unit to compensate. This often involves running the engine richer (using more fuel). Drivers often notice they are filling up more frequently without changes in driving habits. Tracking mileage helps spot this.
• Stalling After Starting: The car starts normally but then stalls seconds to minutes later. This pattern often relates to the pump's ability to maintain pressure when initial demand drops after startup. Other causes exist, but it's a frequent pump issue sign.
• Vehicle Won't Start / Cranks But Won't Fire: The most definitive symptom. The starter motor cranks the engine, but it never catches and starts. No combustion occurs because fuel isn't reaching the engine. Always listen for the priming sound when turning the key to RUN (before cranking). No sound strongly suggests pump failure or associated relay/fuse issues.
• Unusual Noise From Fuel Tank: Listen near the fuel tank when the ignition is turned to RUN. A healthy pump produces a smooth, low hum for 2-3 seconds. A failing pump often makes loud whining, buzzing, screeching, or droning noises. Increased noise levels signal internal bearing or motor wear.

Distinguishing Fuel Pump Failure from Similar Problems

Several other issues mimic fuel pump symptoms. Avoid unnecessary pump replacement by considering these possibilities:

1. Faulty Fuel Pump Relay or Fuse: A cheap and simple fix. The relay controls power to the pump. A blown fuse or failed relay prevents the pump from running. Often produces a complete no-start with no priming sound. Checking relays and fuses is an essential first step.
2. Clogged Fuel Filter: The fuel filter catches debris before it reaches the injectors. A severely clogged filter restricts flow, causing similar power loss and sputtering symptoms. The 2013 Taurus fuel filter is part of the pump module located inside the tank, meaning filter replacement requires pump access. Diagnosis needs to rule out the filter as the primary restriction.
3. Ignition System Failures: Bad ignition coils, spark plugs, or plug wires can cause misfires, stalling, and no-start conditions. A crucial difference is that ignition problems rarely affect the fuel pump priming sound.
4. Bad Fuel Pressure Regulator: This component maintains constant pressure at the fuel rail. A regulator stuck open causes low pressure; stuck closed causes excessive pressure. Both disrupt engine operation. Diagnosis requires fuel pressure testing to isolate regulator vs. pump problems.
5. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Issues: A dirty or failing MAF gives incorrect air intake readings to the engine computer. This causes fueling and performance problems. Symptoms may overlap, but MAF issues usually involve rough idle and poor throttle response more consistently.
6. Wiring Harness Problems: Broken, corroded, or shorted wires feeding the fuel pump or the fuel pump driver module (FPDM) will prevent pump operation. Checking wiring continuity, grounds, and connector integrity is vital, especially if intermittent problems occur.

Diagnosing a Suspect 2013 Taurus Fuel Pump

Proper diagnosis saves time and money. Avoid simply guessing. The primary diagnostic tool is a fuel pressure test gauge. This tool screws onto the Schrader valve fitting found on the engine's fuel rail.

• Hook Up the Gauge: Find the Schrader valve near the engine's fuel injectors. Remove the protective cap. Connect the fuel pressure gauge securely following its instructions.
• Turn Ignition to RUN: Turn the key to the RUN position without starting the engine. Observe the pressure gauge.
• Check Initial Pressure: Pressure should rise quickly and hold steady. Refer to your 2013 Ford Taurus service manual for the exact specification. Generally, expect pressure between 55 to 65 PSI for many Ford engines. Failure to build pressure points to the pump, relay, fuse, wiring, or FPDM. Building pressure but significant delay points to a weak pump.
• Monitor Pressure Stability: Pressure should remain constant after the initial prime. A rapid drop after priming indicates an internal leak within the pump module or a pressure regulator issue.
• Check Pressure Under Load: If possible, have an assistant start the engine. Observe pressure at idle. Then rev the engine or simulate load conditions. Pressure should remain close to specification throughout. Significant drops under load signal a pump unable to meet demand.
• Check for Pump Priming Sound: If no pressure builds, listen at the fuel filler neck or rear seat access panel when the ignition is turned to RUN. No audible priming noise strongly suggests no electrical power to the pump.

2013 Ford Taurus Fuel Pump Replacement Options

Once diagnosed, replacement is required. There are two main paths:

• Professional Mechanic Replacement:

  • Process: Requires lowering the fuel tank or accessing the pump through the trunk floor/back seat area. The fuel tank must be properly supported and lowered carefully. Draining the fuel tank is necessary for safety. Disconnecting fuel lines, electrical connectors, and evap lines comes next. Removing the large locking ring allows the entire pump/sending unit assembly to be extracted. The new assembly is installed, and the ring re-tightened. Finally, the tank is raised and secured, and all lines are reconnected.
  • Pros: Expertise, specialized tools, safety equipment, diagnostic verification, warranty on parts/labor, proper disposal of gasoline and old parts, correct torque on critical fasteners and fittings, verifying proper seal after replacement.
  • Cons: Highest cost. Labor hours range from 3 to 5 hours depending on shop rate and tank access difficulty. Parts and labor combined typically range from $550towellover$1100+ USD.
  • Key Safety Note: Dealing with gasoline and depressurizing the fuel system requires knowledge and extreme caution to prevent fire risk and personal injury. This is the primary reason DIY is not recommended for most.

• DIY Replacement (For Experienced Individuals Only with Proper Preparation):

  • Essential Steps: Read a detailed vehicle-specific repair procedure beforehand (shop manual). Gather all tools. Work outdoors or in extremely well-ventilated areas. Disconnect the negative battery cable. RELIEVE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE (find the procedure for your engine). Drain the fuel tank significantly to make it lighter (or run it very low before starting). Support the tank securely with sturdy jack stands designed for the task. Disconnect fuel lines, wiring harnesses, and evap lines carefully. Support the tank securely during lowering. Clean the sealing surfaces meticulously. Install the new pump module seal correctly (dry - no lubricants usually!). Secure the locking ring with the proper tool to the precise manufacturer's torque specification. Reconnect all lines and wiring securely. Re-install the tank carefully. Reconnect battery. Turn key to RUN several times to prime the pump and check for leaks before starting.
  • Required Tools: Jack stands (high-quality), floor jack, fuel line disconnect tools (various sizes), fuel pressure gauge (sometimes for final check), fuel container(s) for draining, large pump module locking ring tool (MUST be specific to Ford modules!), torque wrench, ratchets/sockets/wrenches, safety glasses, flammable liquid handling gloves. Consult a repair manual for exact socket sizes needed.
  • Major Risks: Improper tank support leading to tank falling/injury. Fire/explosion hazards due to sparks, static discharge, or ignition sources near gasoline vapors. Incorrect depressurization causing high-pressure fuel spray. Damage to fuel lines or fragile connectors causing expensive leaks. Failure to properly seal the pump module resulting in dangerous fuel leaks or check engine lights. Stripped locking ring or tank flange. Personal injury.
  • Pros: Significant cost savings on labor. Learning experience (with risks).
  • Cons: Very high risk without proper tools, environment, and knowledge. Potential for incorrect diagnosis (replacing the pump for the wrong reason). No warranty on the work. Potential for voiding warranty on the part due to improper installation. Severe safety risks.

Choosing the Right Fuel Pump Part

Selecting a quality replacement part is crucial for longevity and performance.

• Fuel Pump Assembly: The 2013 Taurus uses an integrated module assembly. This unit combines the electric fuel pump, fuel level sending unit, filter sock, and necessary plumbing/housing together. Replacement involves swapping the entire assembly unit.
• Ford Genuine Part (Dealership): Manufactured to original specifications. Highest cost option, often significantly more than aftermarket. Ensures perfect fit and function. Comes with a Ford warranty. Ford Part Number examples: 9F9Z-9H307-J or 9F9Z-9H307-E (ALWAYS confirm with your VIN at the dealership, variations exist).
• OEM Equivalent Parts: Brands like Bosch, Denso, or Delphi often supplied the original equipment. Sold under their own brand. High quality, matches OE specs, usually costs less than Genuine Ford. Excellent balance of reliability and value.
• Aftermarket Brands: Wide range of brands exist (Spectra Premium, Carter, Airtex, etc.). Varying quality levels exist – reputable brands offer good value, while very cheap alternatives have higher failure rates. Ensure the product listing explicitly states compatibility with the 2013 Ford Taurus (with specific engine size: 3.5L V6 or 3.5L EcoBoost V6). Look for brands with warranties and positive user reviews.
• Fuel Pump Only vs. Complete Assembly: Rarely is only the pump motor available economically for this application. Most replacements involve the full assembly. Replacing the entire assembly ensures new components throughout the module, including the filter sock and sender unit, which are common failure points themselves.
• Key Considerations: Engine Type (3.5L V6 Duratec or 3.5L EcoBoost). Always double-check fitment details. Warranty length (1 year vs. lifetime offers some difference). User reviews specific to that part number and application can be insightful on long-term reliability. Avoid no-name brands.

Understanding the Costs Involved (USD Estimates)

Costs vary considerably by region and shop choice. Here’s a breakdown:

• Genuine Ford Assembly: $400-$600+ (parts only).
• Quality OEM (Bosch, Denso) or Aftermarket (Spectra, etc.) Assembly: $180-$400 (parts only).
• Professional Labor Cost: $300-$700+ (based on 3-5 hours labor at $100-$150/hr+ shop rates).
• Total Professional Replacement Cost: $550-$1,100+ (sometimes exceeding this).
• DIY Cost: $180-$400 (parts only) + Cost of Necessary Specialized Tools (Locking Ring Tool, Jack Stands, etc.) if not already owned.

Preventive Measures to Extend Fuel Pump Life

While eventual failure is inevitable, you can maximize pump lifespan:

• Avoid Driving on Very Low Fuel: Consistently running your fuel level into the "E" range or triggering the low fuel light strains the pump. Gasoline cools and lubricates the pump motor. Low fuel levels cause overheating and increased wear. Keep the tank above 1/4 full regularly.
• Use Quality Fuel: Purchase gasoline from reputable high-volume stations. Fresh fuel with detergents helps maintain system cleanliness. Suspiciously cheap fuel may contain contaminants or water that accelerates wear. Consider using TOP TIER detergent gasoline brands periodically.
• Address Engine Performance Issues Promptly: Problems like misfires or sensor failures can cause unburnt fuel to cycle back to the tank. This dilutes the oil content in gasoline, increasing wear on the pump motor. Diagnose and fix problems early.
• Replace the Fuel Filter at Recommended Intervals: While the Taurus filter is integrated within the fuel pump module assembly, some mechanics suggest the long-term health benefits of replacing the entire assembly proactively before the filter becomes excessively clogged (perhaps around 100,000-120,000 miles, though Ford has no specific separate interval as the assembly is serviceable as a unit). Clogging significantly strains the pump.
• Ensure Good Electrical Health: Clean battery terminals and tight connections ensure the pump receives stable voltage. Address any known electrical system gremlins promptly.

Long-Term Outlook After Replacement

A quality fuel pump assembly replacement, performed correctly (especially ensuring the critical fuel tank seal is intact), typically provides long-term reliability comparable to the original part. Driving habits and fuel quality remain the primary factors influencing its ultimate lifespan. Expect another 100,000+ miles of service under normal conditions. Be aware of the initial signs discussed to catch any potential future issues early.

The 2013 Ford Taurus fuel pump failure demands attention but can be resolved. Prompt diagnosis, choosing quality parts, and ensuring a professional-level installation are paramount for restoring reliable performance and avoiding costly repeat repairs. Understanding the symptoms and the involved process equips you to make informed decisions about your vehicle's repair.