2014 Dodge Charger Fuel Pump Relay: The Crucial Component You Need to Know About

If your 2014 Dodge Charger won't start or suddenly stalls, a failing fuel pump relay is a prime suspect. This critical, often overlooked, electrical component is inexpensive and relatively easy to replace. Understanding its location, function, signs of failure, testing procedures, and replacement steps can save you costly diagnostic fees and inconvenient tows. Ignoring a bad fuel pump relay leaves your Charger dead in its tracks, as the vital fuel pump won't receive power.

What Exactly Does the Fuel Pump Relay Do?

Think of the fuel pump relay as a heavy-duty electrical switch. Its primary job is to control the high electrical current required by the fuel pump. Here’s the sequence:

1. Ignition On Command: When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" position, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the car's main computer, sends a small, low-power signal.
2. Relay Activation: This small signal activates the fuel pump relay’s electromagnet coil.
3. Switch Closing: The energized coil pulls internal metal contacts together, closing a high-current circuit.
4. Power Flow: Closing this circuit allows battery voltage to flow through the relay directly to the fuel pump.
5. Priming Sequence: Typically, the PCM activates the relay for a few seconds to pressurize the fuel system when the ignition is turned on but before cranking the engine. This is the "priming" sound you might hear.
6. Continuous Operation During Cranking/Running: While cranking the starter and once the engine is running, the PCM keeps the relay energized, ensuring the fuel pump gets continuous power to deliver fuel to the engine.
7. Safety Shutoff: In the event of an accident or rollover, the PCM will immediately deactivate the relay, cutting power to the fuel pump as a safety measure.

The relay handles the significant power demand of the fuel pump. Without it, the tiny wires and sensitive circuits in the ignition switch or PCM would quickly overheat and fail. The relay acts as an indispensable intermediary and protector.

Why the Fuel Pump Relay Can Fail (2014 Dodge Charger Specifics)

Several factors can cause a fuel pump relay to malfunction:

• Internal Wear and Tear: Over countless activation cycles, the internal metal contacts inside the relay can become pitted, corroded, or worn. This increases electrical resistance, generates heat, and eventually leads to intermittent contact or complete failure – the contacts no longer connect reliably to complete the circuit. This is the most common failure mode for relays in modern cars, affecting all manufacturers equally.
• Excessive Heat Exposure: The location of the relay is critical. It sits within the Power Distribution Center (PDC), usually under the hood. Exposure to underhood temperatures, especially during summer months or after prolonged driving, accelerates internal degradation. While the PDC offers some protection, heat remains a significant enemy of electronic components. Vehicles operated in very hot climates or experiencing frequent traffic jams with high engine bay temperatures can see accelerated relay aging.
• Electrical Overload/Spike: While less common than wear and tear, a sudden surge of voltage in the electrical system (like a jump-start gone slightly wrong or alternator regulator failure) can potentially overload and damage the relay's internal coil or contacts beyond recovery. Damage isn't always immediate failure but can lead to premature malfunction later.
• Moisture/Corrosion Intrusion: Although the PDC is designed to protect components, persistent moisture exposure due to a cracked cover seal, flood damage (even minor splash events over years), or high humidity combined with road salt can eventually lead to corrosion on the relay's terminals or internal mechanisms. This corrosion impedes electrical flow. This is more likely in vehicles driven in coastal or harsh winter regions.
• Manufacturing Variation: While modern relays are generally reliable, occasional defects happen during mass production. Some relays might simply not last as long as others under identical conditions due to minor internal inconsistencies.

Location of the Fuel Pump Relay in a 2014 Dodge Charger

Finding the relay is straightforward once you know where to look. Forget inside the cabin; it lives in the engine compartment.

1. Identify the Power Distribution Center (PDC): Open the hood. The PDC is a large black plastic box. On the 2014 Charger, it's located near the battery, typically on the driver's side fender well.
2. Remove the PDC Cover: The cover is secured by plastic clips, sometimes a small screw. Squeeze the clips or unscrew the fastener and lift the cover straight up.
3. Locate the Correct Relay Position: Inside the cover, you will find a comprehensive diagram listing ALL fuses and relays within the PDC. Consult this diagram. The "Fuel Pump Relay" position is clearly labeled. It's usually listed alongside other critical relays like the Engine Control Module (ECM/PCM) relay, the ASD (Automatic ShutDown) relay, and the Fan relays. The physical slots inside the PDC have numbers or labels corresponding to the cover diagram. Find the slot number matching the diagram's "Fuel Pump Relay" position. On many Chrysler vehicles, including the 2014 Charger, the fuel pump relay is often found in position M8 or position K7 within the PDC, but ALWAYS verify using your specific vehicle's cover diagram as placement can vary slightly depending on engine options and other electrical configurations installed. Never rely solely on general positions found online; use the diagram on your actual cover. It will also specify the relay type (typically a standard mini-ISO relay).

Unmistakable Symptoms of a Bad 2014 Charger Fuel Pump Relay

Recognizing the signs is crucial for diagnosis:

1. Car Cranks But Won't Start (No Fuel Pump Prime): This is the most frequent indicator. You turn the key to "ON" and hear silence under the rear seat instead of the expected brief whirring/buzzing sound of the fuel pump priming the system. Then, when you crank the engine, it turns over strongly (cranking sound is normal) but the engine simply doesn't fire or even sputter.
2. Complete Failure to Crank/Start (Related Potential): While not direct relay failure, a completely dead car with no interior lights or starter engagement strongly points to battery or main power issues. However, if the car shows normal dash lights and battery voltage but still refuses to crank or start, consider the ASD relay as a possibility. The ASD relay and fuel pump relay often work together; ASD typically powers the PCM, injectors, and ignition coils. If ASD fails, the car won't start either, and the fuel pump also won't run. Differentiating might require testing. If the car cranks (starter engages) but doesn't start, it's less likely ASD and more likely fuel pump circuit or spark.
3. Engine Stalls Suddenly While Driving: A failing fuel pump relay can lose contact intermittently while driving. One second you're driving normally, the next the engine cuts out completely, with all accessories often remaining functional (lights, radio stay on). Power steering and brake assist disappear immediately. You coast to a stop. Attempting to restart results in cranking with no start. You must coast safely to the roadside. This can be extremely dangerous on highways.
4. Engine Stalls Intermittently at Idle/Low Speed: A less catastrophic but frustrating version of stall happens only at stops or low speeds. The engine quits, but perhaps restarts after a few minutes, especially if you let the key cycle back to "OFF" for a moment before trying again. This symptom strongly suggests failing contacts inside the relay that heat up and open under minor load or vibration.
5. Intermittent Starting Problems: The Charger starts perfectly fine most times, but occasionally, seemingly randomly, it exhibits the crank-no-start symptom described in point 1. It might start after cycling the ignition key several times or sitting for 15-30 minutes. This inconsistency is classic for a relay with worn, intermittently contacting points inside. The behavior feels random because it depends on subtle vibration or temperature shifts affecting the failing internal contact connection.
6. Unusual "Clicking" Sounds During Cranking: While more common with starter relays or solenoids, a severely failing fuel pump relay might physically chatter (rapid clicking) if its coil is unable to hold the internal contacts closed under load. This sound would originate from the PDC under the hood, not the starter motor area.
7. Burnt Smell at the Relay Location: Extreme failure modes involving overheating of the relay can produce a distinct plastic/melty smell near the PDC. If you smell this after a stall or failed start, check the relay immediately. This indicates significant electrical stress likely damaging surrounding components.
8. No Fault Codes or Ambiguous Codes: A bad fuel pump relay typically won't trigger a specific Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). The PCM simply sees an open circuit command wasn't followed; it doesn't always pinpoint the component failure. You might see generic codes like P0230 (Fuel Pump Primary Circuit) or P0627 (Fuel Pump A Control Circuit/Open), but these indicate a problem in the circuit (relay, wiring, fuse, pump) rather than specifically the relay. The absence of codes doesn't rule out the relay.

Testing the Fuel Pump Relay on Your 2014 Charger

Before replacing the relay, testing helps confirm it's the issue. You need a multimeter (or test light and known-good relay). Perform steps 1-4 below for safety.

1. Disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal: Locate the negative battery terminal (-). Loosen the clamp nut with a wrench and carefully remove the cable, placing it away from the battery terminal. This prevents accidental shorts or sparks during testing. Basic safety step before any under-hood electrical work.
2. Locate and Identify the Relay: Follow the location steps outlined earlier to find the correct fuel pump relay slot in the PDC under the hood. Identify its position using the diagram on the PDC cover. Note the exact orientation of the relay in its socket – how its pins align with the receptacles. A phone picture helps avoid reinsertion confusion. It typically has four pins.
3. Check the Fuel Pump Fuse: Locate the fuse associated with the fuel pump circuit. Consult the PDC diagram on the cover – usually labeled "Fuel Pump." Using the fuse puller tool often clipped inside the PDC cover, remove this fuse. Inspect its metal strip inside the clear plastic. If broken, replace it with a fuse of the correct amperage (also listed on the diagram). A blown fuse can cause identical symptoms to a bad relay, but they are separate components. Replace only with an identical rating fuse. Never bypass the fuse! This step is vital: a bad relay won't blow the fuse; if the fuse is blown, there's likely a different problem (like a short circuit) further down the line that needs addressing even after replacing the fuse and relay.
4. Reconnect Battery (Briefly for Testing): Securely reconnect the negative battery terminal. You need power for the next stages. Work carefully around the PDC once power is restored.
5. Listen for the Fuel Pump Prime:
   • Get into the driver's seat. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (without cranking the engine).
   • Listen carefully. You should clearly hear a buzzing or whirring sound coming from the rear seat area (where the fuel pump is located) for about 2-4 seconds. This is the system priming.
   • No Sound? This initial test strongly suggests a problem in the fuel pump control circuit (fuse, relay, wiring, or pump). It points toward a possible relay issue but isn't definitive.
6. Relay Swap Test (Best Method):
   • Identify another relay in the PDC with the exact same part number and pin configuration. Common candidates are the horn relay, A/C clutch relay, radiator fan relays (low/high speed), or the ASD relay (Automatic Shutdown – powers PCM/injectors/coils). Critical: Find one labeled with the exact number shown on your fuel pump relay. Do NOT swap with something like the TIPM fuse (Integrated Power Module relay/fuse combination).
   • Carefully pull out this known good relay (wearing gloves or using needlenose pliers can help; wiggle gently side-to-side while pulling straight up).
   • Pull out the suspected bad fuel pump relay.
   • Place the known good relay into the fuel pump relay socket. Ensure correct orientation matching the diagram.
   • Turn the ignition key to "ON" again. Listen for the fuel pump prime sound.
   • If the pump now primes: Your original fuel pump relay is very likely faulty. Replace it. This swap test provides strong confirmation.
   • If the pump still does NOT prime: The problem lies elsewhere – possibly the wiring, the pump itself, the PCM, or the fuse hasn't been fixed yet. Further diagnosis needed.
7. Multimeter Testing Relay Resistance (Coil Side):
   • Remove the suspect relay again. Set your multimeter to resistance (Ohms Ω) mode. Consult relay pinout diagrams online ("standard ISO mini relay pinout") or your Charger service manual. Identify the two control coil pins (typically pins 85 and 86). There should be continuity (low resistance, usually 50-200 ohms) between these two pins. High resistance or infinite reading indicates a faulty coil inside the relay. This coil receives the small PCM signal.
8. Multimeter Testing Relay Continuity (Switch Side - Non-Energized):
   • Set the multimeter to continuity or low Ohms. Identify the two high-current switch pins (typically pins 30 and 87). With the relay removed and coil not powered, there should be infinite resistance or no continuity between these pins (the contacts are open).
9. Multimeter Testing Relay Continuity (Switch Side - Energized):
   • If you have a fused power source and jumper wires, you can test the switch side under load. This is the most conclusive electrical test.
   • Identify coil pins (85/86).
   • Identify switch pins (30/87).
   • Apply 12 volts from a fused jumper wire source (like the battery terminals themselves, but be extremely careful) to pins 85 and 86 – positive (+) to one coil pin, negative (-) to the other. Polarity usually doesn't matter for the coil itself.
   • Simultaneously, set your multimeter to continuity or low Ohms and probe pins 30 and 87.
   • When 12v is applied to the coil (you might hear a faint click inside the relay), there should be continuity (very low resistance, like near 0 ohms) between pins 30 and 87.
   • Remove the 12v power from the coil. Continuity between 30/87 should disappear (high resistance).
   • Failure at any step: No continuity when powered OR shows continuity when not powered confirms relay failure.
   • Caution: Applying 12v directly requires precision. If unsure, stick to the simpler relay swap test.

Replacing the Fuel Pump Relay on Your 2014 Dodge Charger

Replacement is generally straightforward once confirmed bad:

1. Source the Correct Replacement Relay: Buy a genuine Mopar relay or an identical OEM-specification relay from a reputable auto parts store (e.g., Standard Motor Products, Bosch, Dorman, ACDelco). Match the part number exactly. Do not assume all 4-pin mini relays are interchangeable; subtle internal differences in load handling and coil resistance exist. A store clerk can look it up by year, make, model, and "fuel pump relay." Keep the old relay as reference until the new one is in hand. Prices are usually $15-$40.
2. Disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal: Safety first! Loosen the clamp nut and disconnect the negative battery cable. Place it securely away from the terminal.
3. Access the Power Distribution Center (PDC): Open the hood. Remove the cover from the black plastic Power Distribution Center near the driver's side fender well/battery area.
4. Locate the Faulty Relay: Identify the slot corresponding to the fuel pump relay using the diagram on the PDC cover. Double-check this location.
5. Remove the Old Relay: Firmly grasp the relay (fingers are often enough; small pliers or gloved hand can help for tight spaces). Pull straight up. Wiggle gently side-to-side while pulling if it seems stuck. Avoid excessive force damaging the socket. Place the old relay aside.
6. Install the New Relay: Take the new relay. Orient it exactly as the old one was positioned. The relay has notches and pins arranged specifically. Forcing it incorrectly can damage the socket pins. Align the new relay correctly over the socket. Gently but firmly press straight down until it seats fully into its socket pins. You should feel it click or meet resistance when properly seated.
7. Reconnect the Battery: Securely reconnect the negative battery terminal clamp. Tighten the nut firmly.
8. Test the Repair: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. Listen carefully for the distinct ~2-4 second fuel pump priming sound coming from the rear seat area. If you hear it, that's a great sign.
9. Start the Engine: Turn the key fully to start the engine. It should crank and start normally. Drive the vehicle to ensure smooth running and confirm the stalling issue (if present) is resolved.
10. Replace the PDC Cover: Snap the black plastic PDC cover back into place securely.

Choosing the Right Replacement Relay: OEM vs. Aftermarket

• OEM (Mopar): Offers guaranteed compatibility and expected longevity matching the original part. This is the safest, albeit slightly more expensive (usually $20-$45), option. Recommended if relying on the vehicle daily. Purchase from a Dodge dealer or reputable online dealer parts department.
• High-Quality Aftermarket: Brands like Standard Motor Products (SMP/S), Bosch, ACDelco Professional, and Dorman offer relays built to OEM specifications. Often a better value, delivering equivalent performance at a lower price than Mopar (commonly $12-$30). Ensure the part number matches your old one exactly. Purchased at local auto parts stores (AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly, NAPA) or major online retailers.
• Budget/Economy Aftermarket: Some stores offer no-name relays or house brands. Proceed with extreme caution. Reliability and longevity can be questionable. Savings might be minimal ($5-$15) compared to quality aftermarket, but risking another failure or roadside breakdown is rarely worthwhile for this critical component. Avoid these.

When a New Relay Doesn't Fix the Problem: Next Steps

If you install a new, confirmed-good fuel pump relay and the problem persists (no pump prime, no start):

1. Verify Fuel Pump Fuse (Again): Re-check the fuel pump fuse in the PDC under the hood. Ensure it hasn't blown again after installation. A repeatedly blown fuse indicates a short circuit in the pump wiring or the pump itself.
2. Inspect Wiring: Check the wiring harness leading from the PDC towards the fuel pump (running along the chassis towards the rear of the car). Look for obvious damage: chafed, melted, corroded, or disconnected wires near the PDC socket or anywhere along the harness path. Check connectors at the PDC and near the fuel pump for corrosion or pushed-out pins. Visually inspect any fuse/relay wiring junctions under the hood. Any visible wire damage requires repair before proceeding.
3. Check Voltage at the Fuel Pump:
   • Locate the fuel pump electrical connector. On the 2014 Charger, it's typically under the rear seat bench cushion. Carefully lift the cushion; connectors are often near the fuel tank access panel.
   • With a helper, turn the ignition key to "ON" while you probe the power and ground wires at the connector with a multimeter set to Volts DC. Refer to a wiring diagram or Chassis/Fuse guide for specific wire colors/pinouts. You should measure battery voltage (~12-13V) for the few seconds the relay is commanded on.
   • No Voltage: Problem exists upstream of the pump (wiring issue between PDC and connector, relay socket issue, PCM command problem).
   • Correct Voltage Present: Fuel pump itself is likely faulty.
4. Listen/Fuel Pressure Test: Even if you don't hear the pump, try a simple fuel pressure test. Locate the Schrader valve on the fuel rail (near the engine). Press the valve pin carefully with a rag covering it. If fuel sprays out with significant pressure, the pump is likely working; the problem might be elsewhere (like bad injectors). No fuel or weak pressure points strongly to the pump. Requires a fuel pressure gauge for accurate measurement. A professional mechanic performs this test accurately.
5. Check PCM Commands: Using a scan tool capable of accessing live data or performing actuator tests, you can see if the PCM is commanding the fuel pump relay "ON" when ignition is switched. If the PCM command signal is missing, the problem might be within the PCM, an engine sensor preventing startup, or a wiring issue to the PCM. Requires advanced diagnostics.
6. Seek Professional Help: If the steps above are beyond your scope or tools, or point to fuel pump, PCM, or complex wiring issues, it's time to take the vehicle to a qualified mechanic or dealership. Provide details on the relay replacement and testing done. Avoid random part replacements; systematic diagnosis saves money overall.

Preventative Maintenance and Longevity Tips

While relays can fail unpredictably, you can maximize longevity:

1. Address Electrical System Issues Promptly: Low battery voltage or a failing alternator puts extra stress on all relays. Have charging system problems fixed immediately. Weak system voltage forces relays to work harder closing contacts.
2. Avoid Water Intrusion: Ensure the PDC cover is always securely sealed. If your Charger has been exposed to flooding or deep water fording, inspect the PDC thoroughly for moisture or corrosion and dry it if necessary. Repair damaged PDC seals. Routinely check your under-hood drain channels for blockage preventing proper runoff.
3. Inspect During Routine Service: When having oil changes or other maintenance, ask a tech to quickly inspect the major relays (fuel pump, ASD, starter) in the PDC for signs of overheating (melting plastic housing, discoloration). Many mechanics will do this visual check quickly if requested. Replace proactively if any are discolored.
4. Keep a Spare Relay: Given their low cost and critical function, carrying a spare correct fuel pump relay and matching fuse in your glove box is highly recommended. A failed relay anywhere is a roadside repair taking just minutes. Identify the part number and purchase an extra one. Store it securely with the fuses.

The Bottom Line: Don't Underestimate the 2014 Charger Fuel Pump Relay

That small cube tucked under the hood is vital for delivering fuel to your Charger’s engine. Knowing its location inside the Power Distribution Center, recognizing the symptoms of failure (especially crank-no-start after no prime noise), understanding simple testing like the relay swap, and being able to replace it yourself empowers you to avoid inconvenient breakdowns and expensive tows. While more complex issues like wiring faults or pump failure are possible, the relay remains the most frequent culprit and the easiest starting point for diagnosis and repair. Keep one on hand and know how to install it.