2014 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump: Your Comprehensive Guide to Problems, Costs & Replacement
Is your 2014 Dodge Dart struggling to start, losing power, or showing warning lights? A failing fuel pump is a likely culprit. The fuel pump is the heart of your Dart's fuel delivery system, pressurizing gasoline from the tank to the engine injectors. When it weakens or fails, your car simply won't run correctly. This guide provides everything you need to know about diagnosing issues, understanding replacement costs (both DIY and professional), choosing the right part, and detailed steps for replacing the 2014 Dodge Dart fuel pump.
Understanding the 2014 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump & Its Function
The 2014 Dodge Dart uses an electric fuel pump, submerged inside the fuel tank. This design helps cool and lubricate the pump motor. It operates continuously while the engine is running and activates briefly when you turn the key to the "ON" position to pressurize the system for starting. The pump typically includes the pump motor, a filter sock (pre-filter), the fuel level sending unit (which tells your gauge how much gas is left), and often the main fuel filter integrated onto a module assembly mounted within the tank. Its job is to maintain high, consistent pressure (usually between 55-65 PSI for a direct-injection 2.4L Dart; check specific specs for your engine) regardless of engine load or speed. A constant, adequate fuel supply is essential for combustion, engine performance, and starting reliability.
Common Symptoms of a Failing 2014 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump
Recognizing the early signs of a failing pump can prevent unexpected breakdowns. Key symptoms include:
- Engine Sputtering at High Speeds/RPMs: A pump unable to deliver sufficient volume under heavy load or higher speeds will cause the engine to stumble, surge, or temporarily lose power.
- Reduced Engine Power and Acceleration: You may experience a noticeable lack of power, especially when accelerating hard, climbing hills, or trying to pass other vehicles.
- Unintended Engine Hesitation or Surging: Intermittent pump function can cause erratic engine behavior, lurching, or inconsistent power delivery during normal driving.
- Difficulty Starting the Engine: A weak pump may take longer to build enough pressure for the injectors to work properly, leading to extended cranking times. A completely failed pump will prevent starting altogether.
- Engine Stalling: Particularly after driving for a while or under specific conditions, the engine may stall due to insufficient fuel pressure and need time to cool (or the fuel pressure to bleed down) before restarting.
- Check Engine Light Illumination with Fuel Pressure Codes: The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) monitors the fuel delivery system. A failing pump often triggers diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) like P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low), P0190 (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit), P0171 (System Too Lean - Bank 1), or P0230 (Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction). A scan tool is necessary to read these codes.
- Whining or Humming Noise from the Fuel Tank: While fuel pumps always make some noise, a significantly louder, high-pitched whine or growling noise coming from the rear of the car (especially before it fails) is a classic indicator of a pump wearing out.
- Engine Does Not Start/Crank: No sound from the pump when turning the key to "ON" (you should hear a brief humming for a few seconds), combined with a no-start condition, strongly suggests pump failure or its control circuit issues.
- Poor Fuel Economy: While less common as a primary symptom, a failing pump working harder than normal, or erratic pressure affecting combustion efficiency, can sometimes contribute to reduced miles per gallon.
Diagnosing a Potential 2014 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump Problem
- Listen for Pump Activation: Have someone turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (don't start the engine) while you listen near the fuel filler door or under the car. You should hear a distinct humming or buzzing sound lasting 2-3 seconds. No sound suggests a potential pump issue or a problem with its power or control circuits (fuse, relay, wiring).
- Check Fuel Pressure: This is the definitive test. A mechanical fuel pressure gauge is screwed onto the Schrader valve located on the engine's fuel rail. Compare the reading at key-on (engine off) and idling against your specific Dart engine's specifications. Pressure significantly lower than specification confirms insufficient delivery. Lack of pressure confirms a major issue.
- Scan for Diagnostic Trouble Codes: Use an OBD-II scanner to check for stored fuel system related codes like P0087, P0190, P0171, P0230, etc., which point towards fuel pressure problems.
- Check Electrical Components: Verify the fuel pump fuse and relay. Swap the fuel pump relay with an identical one elsewhere in the underhood fuse box (like the horn relay) to test functionality. Use a multimeter to check for battery voltage at the pump's electrical connector when the ignition is turned on (requires access to the pump connector near/on top of the tank). Lack of voltage indicates a circuit problem upstream of the pump.
- Rule Out Other Issues: Symptoms like hard starting or stalling can also be caused by a bad crankshaft position sensor, clogged fuel filter (though many are integrated with the module and non-serviceable separately), bad spark plugs/coils, or ignition switch issues. Diagnosis helps isolate the fuel pump.
Replacement Costs for the 2014 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump
Costs vary significantly based on whether you repair it yourself (DIY) or hire a professional mechanic, and the quality of the replacement part.
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Parts Cost:
- Complete Fuel Pump Module Assembly: Expect to pay between 250+ for aftermarket assemblies from brands like Bosch, Delphi, Spectra Premium, Denso, or Cardone. These typically include the pump, filter sock, sending unit, fuel filter, and mounting assembly.
- Mopar OEM Replacement: Genuine Mopar pump assemblies are significantly more expensive, usually ranging from 500+.
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Labor Cost (Professional Replacement):
- Replacing the Dart's fuel pump requires dropping the fuel tank, which is labor-intensive. Mechanics typically charge 2.5 to 4.5 hours of labor.
- Depending on local shop rates (175+ per hour), labor costs can range from 800+.
- Total Professional Replacement Cost: Combining parts and labor, the total cost for a shop to replace a 2014 Dodge Dart fuel pump typically falls between 1200+. The higher end usually involves a Mopar OEM pump at a dealership.
- DIY Cost: If you have the skills and tools, you can save significantly on labor. Your total cost would just be the price of the pump assembly itself (500+), plus any incidental supplies like shop rags, gloves, and fuel-safe sealant.
Choosing the Right Replacement Fuel Pump for Your 2014 Dart
- OEM vs. Aftermarket: OEM Mopar parts offer the highest assurance of direct fit and expected reliability but come at a premium price. Reputable aftermarket brands (Bosch, Delphi, Spectra Premium, Denso) offer excellent quality, meeting or exceeding OEM specifications, for a much lower cost. Consider your budget and how long you plan to keep the car.
- Complete Module Assembly: For the 2014 Dodge Dart, replacing the entire fuel pump module assembly is almost always recommended over trying to replace just the pump motor. The module includes the pump, strainer sock, sending unit, fuel filter (if applicable), pressure regulator, and basket. Replacing the entire assembly ensures all these components are new and avoids compatibility or installation issues. It's far more efficient and effective.
- Buying Considerations: Purchase from reputable auto parts stores (NAPA, AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, RockAuto) or trusted online retailers. Check warranty coverage (lifetime warranties on parts are common). Ensure the part listing specifically states compatibility with the 2014 Dodge Dart and your specific engine type (1.4L Turbo MultiAir, 2.0L Tigershark, 2.4L Tigershark).
Essential Safety Precautions Before Working on the Fuel System
Working with fuel is dangerous. Strict safety protocols are mandatory:
- Depressurize the Fuel System: Locate the Schrader valve on the fuel rail under the hood. Place a rag over it and carefully relieve the pressure by depressing the valve core (like a tire valve). Expect a small spray of fuel. Wear eye protection! Wait at least an hour for residual pressure to dissipate. Some recommend pulling the fuel pump fuse/relay and running the engine until it stalls to deplete pressure, but this is less reliable on modern systems and doesn't eliminate tank pressure. Depressurizing is critical to avoid a fuel spray when disconnecting lines.
- Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable: Prevent sparks near fuel vapors. Disconnect the negative (-) terminal from the battery.
- Work in a Well-Ventilated Area: Never work on the fuel system in an enclosed space like a garage without excellent airflow. Vapors are explosive.
- Have a Fire Extinguisher Nearby: A class ABC fire extinguisher rated for flammable liquids and electrical fires must be accessible.
- Avoid Sparks and Flames: Do not smoke or use any tools or equipment that could create sparks near the work area. Do not use mobile phones near the tank when it's open.
- Proper Fuel Disposal: Have a DOT-approved gasoline container ready to capture fuel from the tank and lines. Dispose of old gasoline responsibly at designated hazardous waste facilities.
Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing a 2014 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump
(Complexity: Moderate to Difficult. Requires mechanical aptitude, patience, and safety awareness. This guide provides an overview; consult a specific Dart factory service manual or detailed online tutorial for precise steps)
Tools & Materials Needed:
- New fuel pump module assembly
- Floor jack and jack stands
- Sockets, ratchets, and extensions (metric)
- Torque wrench
- Screwdrivers
- Trim removal tools
- Drain pan (large capacity)
- Safety glasses, nitrile gloves (fuel-resistant)
- Fire extinguisher
- Fuel line disconnect tools (appropriate sizes for fuel hoses)
- Prybar or large screwdriver (for tank straps if necessary)
- Shop rags
Procedure:
- Preparation: Park on a level surface. Engage the parking brake firmly. Depressurize the system! Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove any large items from the trunk/cargo area.
- Lower Rear Seat Access: Fold down the rear seat bottom. Peel back the carpeting and locate the access panel in the floor pan covering the fuel pump module top. Remove the panel screws and lift the panel away.
- Disconnect Electrical Connectors: Disconnect the main electrical connector at the fuel pump module. Carefully note wiring positions if separate connectors exist. Disconnect any vent hoses attached nearby.
- Disconnect Fuel Lines: Use the appropriate fuel line disconnect tool(s) to carefully disconnect the fuel supply and return lines from the module assembly. Be prepared for small fuel spillage; use rags. Cap or plug the lines immediately.
- Remove Pump Module Lock Ring: A large plastic locking ring secures the pump module to the tank. Use a brass drift (to avoid sparks) or the back of a plastic hammer handle and tap it firmly COUNTER-CLOCKWISE until loose. Unscrew and remove the ring. Clean any debris off the ring and tank neck.
- Remove the Old Fuel Pump Module: Carefully lift the entire assembly straight up and out of the fuel tank. Tilt it slightly if necessary to maneuver past obstacles. Be mindful of the float arm for the sending unit. Place it immediately into a shallow drain pan.
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Prepare the Tank: If necessary to access tank straps or for other reasons, you may need to lower the tank:
- Relieve pressure on the gas tank straps by slightly supporting the tank with a floor jack and a block of wood. Remove the bolts holding the tank straps. Slowly lower the tank several inches. Ensure the tank is adequately supported.
- Disconnect the filler neck hose clamp near the rear wheel well inside the trunk. Disconnect any remaining vent lines or electrical grounds attached to the tank.
- Carefully lower the tank further, leaving enough room to safely access and remove the pump module completely.
- Transfer Sending Unit/Parts (If Required by Replacement Assembly): Compare the old and new modules. Some assemblies require you to transfer the fuel level sending unit from the old basket to the new one using small screws. Follow the instructions included with your new pump. Others are complete and ready to install.
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Install the New Pump Module:
- Ensure the large circular seal on the new pump module assembly is seated correctly in its groove and lightly lubricated with clean engine oil (petroleum jelly can sometimes damage the seal - check manufacturer instructions). Do NOT use silicone grease.
- Carefully lower the new assembly straight down into the tank, aligning the module correctly with any tabs or notches in the tank opening. Ensure the sending unit float arm moves freely without obstruction.
- Install Lock Ring: Place the locking ring back onto the tank neck and hand-tighten it clockwise as far as possible. Use the drift or hammer handle and tap it firmly CLOCKWISE to seat it securely. It should feel tight and not move easily.
- Reconnect Fuel Lines: Reattach the fuel supply and return lines to the new module assembly ports using the quick-connect fittings. Ensure you hear/feel them click into place securely. Pull on them gently to verify connection.
- Reconnect Electrical Connectors: Reconnect the main electrical connector(s) to the pump module and any other connectors you disconnected. Ensure they snap into place.
- Raise Tank / Secure: If you lowered the tank, carefully raise it back into position. Reinstall the tank straps and tighten the bolts securely to the manufacturer's specification if available. Reconnect the filler neck hose clamp inside the trunk. Reconnect any vent lines or grounds disconnected earlier. Ensure no wiring or hoses are pinched.
- Cycle the Fuel Pump: DO NOT REINSTALL TRIM YET! Reconnect the negative battery cable. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start) for 2 seconds, then back "OFF." Do this 3-4 times. Listen for the pump to prime each time. Check for leaks around the pump module lock ring, seal, and fuel line connections. This step is critical. If you see any leak, turn the key OFF and identify the source before proceeding.
- Reinstall Access Panel & Interior: If no leaks are present, reinstall the access panel cover over the pump module. Replace the carpet. Reinstall the rear seat bottom.
- Final Test: Start the engine. Let it idle and check for leaks again. Check engine response during acceleration. Verify the fuel gauge reads correctly.
After Replacement: Maintenance Tips
- Avoid driving the car on a very low fuel level (under 1/4 tank) regularly. The submerged pump relies on gasoline for cooling and lubrication. Running frequently on low fuel contributes to overheating and premature wear.
- Use good quality fuel from reputable stations. Contaminants can accelerate pump wear.
- Change your engine air filter regularly as scheduled.
- Be attentive to any recurrence of symptoms like hard starting, stalling, or power loss – these could indicate another issue or a problem with the pump installation.
Frequently Asked Questions (2014 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump)
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Q: What size fuel pump does a 2014 Dodge Dart need?
- A: Specific flow rates vary by engine (1.4L Turbo, 2.0L, 2.4L). Ensure you purchase a fuel pump module assembly explicitly listed for your specific 2014 Dodge Dart model and engine size. The physical assembly is generally the same across engines, but the pump motor's output is calibrated to match fuel demands.
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Q: Is it worth replacing the fuel pump yourself?
- A: If you are comfortable working on cars, have the necessary tools and jack stands, understand the significant safety risks, and can follow procedures meticulously, DIY can save hundreds in labor costs. It's moderately difficult, primarily due to tank access, fuel line disconnects, and the physical awkwardness of handling the tank/pump. If unsure, professional replacement is strongly advised.
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Q: How long do 2014 Dodge Dart fuel pumps last?
- A: There's no fixed lifespan. Many last 80,000-100,000 miles or 10+ years, but premature failure (around 60,000 miles) isn't uncommon due to driving habits, fuel quality, electrical issues (e.g., recalled fuel pump relays on some Darts), or manufacturing variations. Aggressively driving with low fuel levels is a major cause of early failure.
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Q: How much gas is left when the fuel gauge reads empty?
- A: This varies slightly. On many Darts, when the "Low Fuel" light comes on (around 1/8th tank or less), you typically have about 1.5 to 2 gallons remaining. However, consistently running this low increases pump strain.
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Q: Can a dirty fuel filter cause symptoms like a bad fuel pump?
- A: Potentially, yes. However, on the 2014 Dodge Dart, the primary fuel filter is usually integrated into the in-tank pump module assembly and not designed as a separate serviceable component. Replacing the whole module solves this. The smaller pump inlet filter sock (in the tank) can clog with debris over time, also restricting flow and causing pump symptoms, though typically the pump itself has degraded by that point. Replacing the assembly replaces the sock.
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Q: Is there a recall on the 2014 Dart fuel pump?
- A: While there were Chrysler fuel pump module recalls for other models/years (like Jeep Grand Cherokees) using similar parts, as of this writing, there is no active NHTSA safety recall specifically for the fuel pump in the 2014 Dodge Dart. There were related recalls for the Fuel Pump Relay (Recall V18 [2018], V79 [2019]) which could lead to pump failure. Always check the NHTSA website using your VIN for the latest recall status.
Conclusion: Addressing Fuel Pump Issues Proactively is Key
A failing fuel pump in your 2014 Dodge Dart is a serious reliability concern that demands prompt attention. Recognizing the symptoms early (hard starting, power loss, stalling) allows you to address it before a complete failure leaves you stranded. While the replacement cost, especially at a shop, can be significant, ensuring consistent fuel delivery is vital for engine health and your vehicle's drivability. By understanding the diagnosis process, cost considerations, part selection options, and meticulously following safety procedures whether you DIY or hire a professional, you can ensure your Dart gets back on the road safely and reliably for miles to come. Prioritize safety above all when dealing with gasoline systems.