2014 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse: Your Complete Location and Replacement Guide

Is your 2014 Ford F-150 refusing to start, cranking but not firing up? One of the most crucial (and easiest) places to begin your diagnosis is the fuel pump fuse. If blown, it cuts power to the fuel pump entirely, preventing your engine from getting the fuel it needs. Knowing the precise location of the 2014 F150 fuel pump fuse and how to check or replace it is essential knowledge for any truck owner.

The Absolute Essentials: Location & Facts

  • Primary Fuel Pump Fuse: The most common fuse dedicated to the fuel pump in the 2014 F-150 is Fuse #27 (20 Amp) located in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) under the hood. This fuse specifically protects the fuel pump relay's control circuit.
  • Critical Secondary Fuse: More crucially, the main power feed to the fuel pump itself runs through Fuse #54 (20 Amp), also located in the Battery Junction Box (BJB) under the hood. While #27 affects control, #54 directly powers the pump motor. Blowing Fuse #54 will immediately cause a no-start condition due to lack of fuel.
  • Backup Pump Power: Some engine configurations might route backup power to the fuel pump through Fuse #52 (20 Amp) in the Central Junction Box (CJB) inside the cabin (behind the passenger side kick panel near the hood release). However, Fuse #54 under the hood is universally the primary power source.
  • Function: This fuse protects the electrical circuit powering the fuel pump from dangerous overloads, such as a short circuit in the wiring or a failing pump motor.
  • Symptoms When Blown: The most obvious symptom is a crank/no-start condition where the engine turns over but does not fire. Other signs include the engine suddenly stalling while driving and not restarting, and the distinct absence of a brief humming sound from the rear of the truck (near the fuel tank) when you turn the key to the "ON" position (before cranking).
  • Checking is Simple: Visually inspecting the fuse or testing it with a multimeter takes only minutes.

Locating the Fuse Boxes

  1. Under-Hood Fuse Box (Battery Junction Box - BJB): This is the large black box located near your truck's battery on the driver's side of the engine compartment.
    • To Access: Squeeze the latches on either side of the box lid and lift it straight up. The lid will have a diagram showing fuse numbers and amperages. Keep it clean and dry when open.
  2. Passenger Compartment Fuse Box (Central Junction Box - CJB):
    • To Access: Look near the lower right corner of the dashboard, on the passenger side footwell area. Find the panel cover just to the right (toward the door) of the main plastic kick panel trim piece near where your right foot would rest. Carefully pry off this rectangular cover panel using a trim tool or flat-head screwdriver wrapped in cloth to avoid scratches. Inside, you'll find another fuse panel.

Identifying the Correct Fuel Pump Fuses in Your 2014 F-150

  • Under-Hood Box (BJB): Locate the fuse diagram printed on the underside of the fuse box lid. Search for:
    • Fuse #54 (20A) - Primary Fuel Pump Power Feed. This is the MOST critical fuse for pump operation.
    • Fuse #27 (20A) - Fuel Pump Relay Control Power / Fuel Pump Feed (on many configurations).
  • Interior Box (CJB): Lift off the rectangular cover to see the fuse panel. Check the diagram printed on the panel or in your owner's manual (page 323 in most cases) specifically for:
    • Fuse #52 (20A) - Potentially a secondary power source for the fuel pump on some F-150s.

How to Check if Your 2014 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse is Blown

  1. Visually: Remove the suspected fuse using the fuse puller tool (usually clipped inside one of the fuse boxes - often the BJB).
    • Hold the fuse up to the light. Look at the thin metal strip running between the two metal prongs.
    • Intact Fuse: The metal strip will be continuous and unbroken.
    • Blown Fuse: The metal strip will have a visible break or gap. It may look melted, discolored, or charred.
  2. Using a Multimeter:
    • Set your multimeter to the "Continuity" setting (the setting that beeps) or the Ohms (Ω) setting.
    • Touch one probe to each metal prong on the fuse.
    • Intact Fuse: Continuity setting will beep continuously. Ohms setting will show a very low resistance reading (near 0 Ohms).
    • Blown Fuse: Continuity setting will not beep. Ohms setting will show a reading of "OL" (Over Limit) or extremely high resistance (like 1, 2, 3, etc.).

Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing the Blown Fuse

  1. Confirm the Blown Fuse: Use the visual or multimeter method above to positively identify which fuse is blown.
  2. Gather Correct Replacement: This is critical. You MUST use a new fuse with the exact same amperage rating. Using a fuse with higher amperage is dangerous and can cause an electrical fire. A lower-rated fuse will blow too easily. For the 2014 F-150 fuel pump circuit, this is almost always a 20 Amp Mini blade fuse.
  3. Power Off: While not strictly necessary for a blown fuse, turning the ignition key fully off and removing it adds an extra safety margin while handling fuses.
  4. Remove the Old Fuse: Insert the tip of the fuse puller tool firmly over the top of the blown fuse and gently squeeze the handle to grip it. Pull straight up and out.
  5. Insert the New Fuse: Push the new, correct amperage fuse firmly down into the exact same slots where the old fuse came from. Ensure it seats fully. You should feel it click into place. Do not force it.
  6. Check Operation: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start the engine yet). Listen carefully near the rear of the truck. You should hear the fuel pump hum for a few seconds as it pressurizes the system. If you hear the hum, attempt to start the engine.

What If the New Fuse Blows Immediately?

  • Critical Warning: If your replacement fuel pump fuse blows as soon as you turn the ignition ON (or immediately after starting), STOP. Do not keep replacing it. This indicates a significant short circuit somewhere in the fuel pump circuit. Continuing to replace the fuse risks electrical damage or fire.
  • Potential Causes: A short circuit can be caused by:
    • Damaged Wiring: Wires chafed through by sharp metal edges, crushed in a pinch point, or chewed by rodents.
    • Failing Fuel Pump: An internally shorted pump motor.
    • Faulty Relay: A stuck fuel pump relay (located near the BJB under the hood) can sometimes cause excessive current draw, though often it causes no power instead.
    • Circuit Issue Elsewhere: A problem in an adjacent circuit connected to the fuel pump wiring.
  • Professional Diagnosis Required: Diagnosing and repairing a short circuit requires specialized tools (like wiring diagrams and multimeters for voltage drop testing) and expertise. This is not a DIY fix. Towing your F-150 to a qualified mechanic or auto electrician is necessary to locate and repair the short safely.

Beyond the Fuse: Related Components

While the fuse is the first checkpoint, understand it interacts with other components:

  1. Fuel Pump Relay: This electronic switch (also located in the BJB under the hood) is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). When the PCM sends a signal, the relay clicks closed, sending battery power through the fuse (#54) to the fuel pump. A faulty relay can mimic a blown fuse symptom, or cause intermittent pump failure. Relays are cheap and relatively easy to swap for diagnostic purposes (swap with an identical one like the starter relay temporarily to test).
  2. Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM): Primarily found on older F-150s, most 2014 models integrated this function into the PCM. Its job is to provide precise variable control of the pump speed based on engine demand. A failure usually causes erratic pump operation or pressure issues rather than a total no-power situation, though rare failures can mimic fuse problems.
  3. The Fuel Pump Itself: Located inside the fuel tank. While a seized pump can sometimes cause the fuse to blow (due to excessive inrush current), they often fail electrically without blowing the fuse, causing low pressure or no pressure rather than total loss of power. Diagnosing requires checking fuel pressure at the rail.

Preventive Maintenance Tips

  • Periodic Checks: Visually inspect the fuse boxes, especially the critical power fuses like #54 and #27 under the hood, a couple of times a year or before long trips. Look for any signs of melting, corrosion, or loose fuses.
  • Spare Fuses: Always keep spare fuses, specifically 20 Amp Mini blade fuses, in your glove box or center console. Many auto parts stores sell compact fuse kits perfect for this.
  • Wiring Awareness: If you notice any exposed wiring bundles under the truck, especially near the fuel tank or along the frame rails, have them inspected and protected immediately to prevent future shorts.
  • Cleanliness: Keep fuse box areas free of excessive dirt and moisture to prevent corrosion.

Conclusion

Never underestimate the simple fuse. When your 2014 Ford F-150 exhibits crank/no-start, sudden stalling, or lacks its characteristic pump prime hum, checking the fuel pump fuse should be your very first diagnostic step. Locate the primary fuse (#54 - 20A) and control fuse (#27 - 20A) in the under-hood battery box, and the potential secondary (#52 - 20A) inside the passenger kick panel. Visual inspection or a quick test takes moments. Replacing a blown fuse with an exact 20A equivalent is simple and inexpensive. However, if the new fuse blows instantly, recognize this signals a dangerous short circuit somewhere in the wiring between the fuse box and the fuel pump, demanding immediate professional attention. Keeping spare fuses onboard and periodically checking these critical components can save you significant hassle and prevent unexpected breakdowns. Knowing your 2014 F150 fuel pump fuse location is fundamental to keeping your truck reliably on the road.

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