2014 Honda Accord Fuel Pump Relay Location (Exactly Where to Find It)

The fuel pump relay in a 2014 Honda Accord is located inside the under-hood fuse and relay box. Specifically, it's the relay identified as PGM-FI Main Relay 1 (ECU/Fuel Pump) and occupies the position labeled "Relay 1" within the relay section of that box. This critical component controls power to both the fuel pump and the vehicle's main computer (ECU). Here's exactly where to find it:

1. Go to the Engine Compartment: Open the hood of your Accord.
2. Locate the Under-Hood Fuse Box: Find the primary black plastic fuse and relay box. It's positioned on the passenger side (right-hand side in left-hand drive vehicles) of the engine bay, mounted on the inner fender wall, directly next to the battery.
3. Open the Fuse Box Cover: The cover is secured by clips at the front. Press down on the tabs at the front edge of the lid and lift the cover straight up to remove it.
4. Find the Relay Block Diagram: On the underside of the lid you just removed, you'll find a detailed diagram listing every fuse and relay position along with their amperage ratings and functions.
5. Identify Relay 1 (PGM-FI Main Relay 1 - ECU/Fuel Pump): Consult the lid diagram. Look for the designation "Relay 1" within the relay section. Next to it, the diagram will clearly label its function as "PGM-FI Main Relay 1 (ECU/Fuel Pump)". This is the fuel pump relay.
6. Locate Relay 1 in the Box: Look inside the fuse box itself. You'll see a bank of larger, cube-shaped components – these are the relays. Find the relay that occupies the position corresponding to "Relay 1" as identified on the lid diagram. It's usually one of the relays closest to the front edge of the box.

Why the Fuel Pump Relay Matters So Much

Understanding the location of the fuel pump relay is crucial because this small component acts as a high-power switch for the fuel pump. When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" or "START" position, a signal from the ignition switch travels through the relay's control circuit. This engages the relay, which then connects the fuel pump directly to the battery's main power supply, activating it. This creates the necessary fuel pressure to start and run the engine.

A failure of this relay is a relatively common culprit behind a 2014 Honda Accord cranking but not starting. If the relay malfunctions – due to internal burnt contacts, corrosion, coil failure, or damaged solder joints – the fuel pump never receives power. As a result, you hear the starter turn the engine, but without fuel delivery, the engine won't start. While a failed fuel pump itself causes the same symptoms, the relay is often quicker, easier, and cheaper to diagnose and replace.

Symptoms Pointing to a Potential Failed Fuel Pump Relay

Several symptoms can indicate a problem with the PGM-FI Main Relay 1:

1. Engine Cranks But Won't Start: The most classic and common symptom. You turn the key, hear the starter motor spin the engine normally, but the engine never fires up or runs. This usually happens suddenly and unexpectedly.
2. No Fuel Pump Prime Sound: When you first turn the ignition to the "ON" position (without cranking), you should hear a brief whirring or humming sound coming from underneath the rear seats – that's the fuel pump pressurizing the system. If you hear absolutely nothing during this initial "ON" position phase, it strongly suggests a lack of power to the pump, potentially caused by the relay or a blown fuel pump fuse (also located in the under-hood box – check diagram).
3. Intermittent Starting Problems: The engine may fail to start one time but start perfectly the next. You might experience this after the car has been sitting, particularly in hot weather (a common failure mode for this relay's solder joints), or seemingly at random. Tapping the relay box might temporarily make it work, indicating a connection issue inside the relay.
4. Engine Stalls While Driving: Though less frequent than preventing starting, a failing relay can cut power to the fuel pump while the car is running, causing immediate engine shutdown. This can be extremely dangerous and requires immediate attention.
5. Electrical Issues with Other ECU-Dependent Components: Since Relay 1 also powers the main engine control unit (ECU), a fault can sometimes manifest as strange electrical glitches or error messages related to other systems managed by the ECU, though the primary symptom remains the no-start condition. Crucially, if your AC compressor also fails to engage at the same time as the no-start occurs, it heavily implicates Relay 1, as the AC compressor clutch often shares the ECU power feed from this relay.

Step-by-Step: Accessing and Inspecting the Fuel Pump Relay (PGM-FI Main Relay 1)

1. Safety First: Ensure the vehicle is parked on a level surface with the parking brake firmly engaged. Turn the ignition completely OFF and remove the key.
2. Disconnect the Battery: Locate the negative (-) terminal on the battery. Loosen the clamp nut using a 10mm wrench and carefully slide the clamp off the terminal post. Secure the cable away from the terminal to prevent accidental contact. This eliminates the risk of electrical shorts while working in the fuse box.
3. Remove the Under-Hood Fuse Box Cover: Press down on the tabs at the front edge of the fuse box lid. Lift the lid straight up to remove it.
4. Consult the Diagram: Reference the fuse/relay layout diagram printed on the underside of the lid. Confirm the position of "Relay 1" and its function ("PGM-FI Main Relay 1 (ECU/Fuel Pump)").
5. Visually Locate Relay 1: Find the physical relay in the box corresponding to position #1 indicated on the lid diagram.
6. Inspect the Relay: Give the relay a visual check. While internal failure isn't usually visible, look for signs of physical damage, melting on the plastic housing, or severe corrosion on the metal prongs extending from the bottom. Compare its appearance to the surrounding relays.
7. Initial Testing (Tap Test - Optional & Preliminary): If symptoms are intermittent, you can try this before removal: Reconnect the battery negative terminal temporarily. Have an assistant turn the ignition to the "ON" position while you lightly tap on the Relay 1 housing with the handle of a screwdriver or similar non-conductive tool. Listen carefully for the fuel pump prime sound. If tapping makes the pump suddenly run or the engine starts when previously it didn't, it indicates an internal connection problem within the relay.
8. Remove Relay 1 for Further Testing/Replacement: To properly test or replace it, disconnect the battery negative terminal again (crucial step). Firmly grasp the relay by its sides and pull it straight up out of its socket. Do not wiggle excessively. The relay should come out with steady pressure.
9. Inspect the Socket: With the relay removed, look into the socket. Check for any signs of burning, corrosion, bent pins, or debris. Use compressed air if needed to blow out any dirt. Damaged sockets require professional repair.

Testing the Fuel Pump Relay (PGM-FI Main Relay 1)

Testing the relay definitively requires either swapping it with an identical, known-good relay or using a multimeter. Here are reliable methods:

1. Swap Test (Recommended): This is often the simplest and most conclusive method.
   • Locate an identical relay in the same fuse box performing a non-critical function. Common suitable swap candidates in the under-hood box include Relay 2 (Heater Control), Relay 3 (Wiper), or Relay 6 (Blower Motor - often same type). Check the lid diagram to ensure the relay you choose has the exact same part number/specifications as Relay 1. Relays are usually marked with their specifications on top.
   • Disconnect the battery negative terminal.
   • Remove the known good relay from its socket (e.g., Wiper relay).
   • Remove the suspected bad Relay 1.
   • Install the known good relay (e.g., Wiper relay) into the Relay 1 socket.
   • Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
   • Turn the ignition to "ON" and listen for the fuel pump prime. Try starting the engine.
   • Interpretation:
     • Problem Resolved: If the fuel pump now primes and the engine starts, the original Relay 1 is confirmed faulty.
     • Problem Persists: If there's still no prime or start, leave the known good relay in place. Re-install the original Relay 1 into the socket where the known good relay came from (e.g., the Wiper socket). Test the function associated with that socket (e.g., turn wipers on). If that function also fails, then the known good relay is likely bad too. If the function works (e.g., wipers operate), then the issue is not with Relay 1, pointing towards a problem elsewhere (like the fuel pump itself, a fuse, wiring, or ignition switch). If swapping didn't solve the starting issue, you haven't worsened the problem for the swapped system as long as you put the relays back.
   • Remember to swap the relays back to their original positions after diagnosis.
2. Multimeter Test (Continuity/Resistance): Requires a basic digital multimeter.
   • Remove the relay and disconnect the battery (done above).
   • Identify the relay terminals. The bottom has metal prongs. Five-pin relays (common type) usually have terminals labeled or arranged in a standard pattern:
     • 85 & 86: Control Coil (low current circuit).
     • 30: Common Terminal (input from battery power via fuse).
     • 87: Normally Open Terminal (output to device - fuel pump/ECU when activated).
     • 87a: Normally Closed Terminal (usually not used in this application).
     • Note: Refer to the diagram on the relay body itself or the fuse box lid for specific terminal layout if labels are unclear. Sometimes you just need to visually map the pin arrangement.
   • Test Coil Resistance:
     • Set multimeter to Ohms (Ω) mode.
     • Touch probes to terminals 85 and 86.
     • Expected: A reading within a typical range (e.g., 70-100 Ω). An open circuit reading (OL or infinity) means a broken coil. A reading of 0 Ω indicates a short.
   • Test Switching Operation (Requires External Power):
     • Set multimeter to Continuity or Ohms.
     • Place probes between 30 and 87. It should read NO Continuity / Open (OL) when the relay is de-energized (off).
     • Apply 12 volts to the control coil terminals 85 (+) and 86 (-). A small 12v battery or a power supply works. Ensure polarity is correct.
     • While power is applied to 85/86, measure between 30 and 87.
     • Expected: Should now show Continuity / Very Low Ohms (close to 0). If it still shows open, the internal switch contacts are faulty.
     • (Optional) You can also check for continuity between 30 and 87a without power applied (it should have continuity) and then lose it with power applied.

Replacing the Fuel Pump Relay in Your 2014 Accord

If testing confirms Relay 1 is faulty, replacement is straightforward:

1. Purchase the Correct Relay:
   • Honda Part Number: 39400-SDA-A01 (common for many years and models, including the 2014 Accord).
   • You can buy a Genuine Honda replacement from a dealership or trusted online Honda parts retailer.
   • Alternatively, reliable aftermarket brands (Denso, Standard Motor Products (SMP), Bosch) offer equivalents. Look for the exact same specifications and physical pin configuration as the original. Take the old relay to an auto parts store if needed to match it. Do not substitute with a relay of a different pin type, rating, or function.
2. Disconnect Battery Negative Terminal: As always when working on electrical components.
3. Remove the Old Relay: Firmly grasp and pull Relay 1 straight up out of its socket.
4. Insert the New Relay: Align the new relay's prongs with the holes in the socket. Press down firmly and evenly until the relay is fully seated. You should feel it click securely into place.
5. Reconnect Battery: Secure the negative terminal clamp back onto the battery post and tighten the nut firmly.
6. Test Operation: Turn the ignition to the "ON" position and listen for the fuel pump prime sound. Start the engine. Ensure it runs normally. If applicable, check functions of any systems you swapped relays with earlier.

Other Potential Causes of Fuel Pump Issues (When Relay Checks Out)

If you've confirmed the fuel pump relay is functional and properly powered, but the car still won't start, investigate these areas:

1. Fuel Pump Fuse: Located in the SAME under-hood fuse box. Check the lid diagram for the specific fuse location (e.g., often labeled "FUEL PUMP" or similar, typically a 15A fuse). Use the diagram to locate it visually in the box. Pull it out and inspect the metal strip inside the clear plastic top – if broken or melted, replace it with a fuse of the exact same amperage rating.
2. Fuel Pump Itself: Located in the fuel tank under the rear seat cushion. If the relay is working (you hear the prime sound for 2 seconds at "ON"), the problem lies after the relay, possibly the pump motor itself, or its wiring. Lack of prime sound points to the relay or its circuit. Listening at the fuel filler neck with the cap off while someone turns ignition to "ON" is another test location for pump prime noise.
3. Ignition Switch: A faulty ignition switch might not be sending the "ON" signal to activate the fuel pump relay. Symptoms might include other accessories also failing to work when the key is turned.
4. Wiring Harness Issues: Damage, corrosion, or breaks in the wiring between the relay, fuse, ignition switch, ECU, or fuel pump can cause problems. Visual inspection or diagnosis with a wiring diagram and multimeter is needed. Pay special attention to ground connections relevant to the fuel pump circuit.
5. ECU Malfunction: Less common, but a failed engine control unit could prevent the proper operation of the fuel pump circuit. This usually requires advanced diagnostics with specialized equipment to confirm.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) - 2014 Honda Accord Fuel Pump Relay

• Q1: Is the fuel pump relay easy to find?
  • A: Yes, once you know it's in the under-hood fuse box as "Relay 1 (PGM-FI Main Relay 1)". The diagram on the lid makes identification simple.
• Q2: Can I drive without a working fuel pump relay?
  • A: No. Without the relay, the fuel pump gets no power. The engine will crank but not start. If the relay fails while driving, the engine will stall immediately. Do not attempt to drive without this relay functioning.
• Q3: Why does my relay fail? Especially in hot weather?
  • A: Common causes include:
    • Solder Joint Cracking: Internal solder connections on the circuit board inside the relay can crack over time due to heat cycles (engine bay heat) and vibration. This is a very common failure mode for Hondas of this era, often causing intermittent problems.
    • Contact Wear/Burning: The high current passing through the switching contacts can cause them to arc, pit, or weld shut/stuck open over time.
    • Coil Failure: The electromagnetic coil can fail open or short.
    • Physical Damage/Corrosion: Impact, water ingress, or corrosion on the terminals.
• Q4: How much does a new relay cost?
  • A: Prices vary:
    • Genuine Honda: Typically $30-$60 USD.
    • Quality Aftermarket (Denso, SMP, Bosch): Typically $15-$35 USD.
    • Cheaper generic relays: $5-$15 USD (use caution – may be less reliable long-term).
• Q5: I changed the relay but the car still won't start. What now?
  • A: Systematically check:
    • Confirm you installed the correct new relay properly seated.
    • Check the Fuel Pump Fuse (in same box).
    • Listen for the fuel pump prime sound at "ON". If you hear it, the pump is likely getting power – check fuel pressure or spark. If you DON'T hear it, the problem is likely before the pump (wiring, ignition switch, ECU) even though the relay is new. Consider professional diagnostics.
• Q6: Where is the fuel pump located?
  • A: Inside the fuel tank, accessed by removing the rear seat bottom cushion (lift front edge upwards) and then unbolting a metal or plastic access panel on the floor of the vehicle. Replacing it is a more complex job than swapping the relay.

Final Tip: Always purchase a relay branded by Honda (OE), Denso, Bosch, or Standard Motor Products (SMP). High-quality relays are critical for the reliable operation of vital systems like fuel delivery. Knowing the precise location and function of Relay 1 empowers you to quickly address a common no-start issue in your 2014 Honda Accord, saving time and potentially costly towing fees. Keep the fuse box diagram handy!