2015 Chrysler 200 Fuel Pump Replacement: A Comprehensive Step-by-Step Guide for DIYers
Replacing the fuel pump in a 2015 Chrysler 200 requires intermediate mechanical skill, significant time commitment, strict adherence to safety procedures involving flammable gasoline, and dropping the fuel tank. The job demands specific tools and careful handling of the fuel system components. While achievable for a dedicated do-it-yourselfer, potential hazards like fire risk and the complexity of accessing the pump module within the tank mean professional installation is strongly advised for most owners.
A failing fuel pump manifests through distinct symptoms before leaving you stranded. Recognizing these early signs allows for safer planning and avoids sudden breakdowns. The most common indicator is engine hesitation or stumbling, especially under acceleration or load, where the engine demands more fuel than a weak pump can supply. Difficulty starting the engine, requiring multiple key turns, often points to insufficient fuel pressure building in the line. A noticeable loss of engine power, particularly at higher speeds or when climbing hills, is another red flag. A surging engine while maintaining a constant speed on the highway can occur if pump pressure fluctuates erratically. Finally, a high-pitched whining noise originating from the rear seat/tank area, significantly louder than the pump's normal operating hum, signals impending failure. Complete engine stalling, especially when hot or under load, signifies the pump has likely ceased functioning. Hearing your pump run continuously for several seconds after shutting off the engine is abnormal and suggests a potential check valve failure within the pump assembly, leading to hard starting next time.
Prioritizing safety is non-negotiable when working with gasoline. Work outdoors whenever possible. If working indoors is unavoidable, ensure maximum ventilation. Eliminate all potential ignition sources near the work area – open flames, sparks, pilot lights, cigarettes, and electrical equipment capable of creating sparks. Have a Class B chemical fire extinguisher rated for flammable liquid fires readily accessible at the worksite – do not use water. Wear appropriate safety glasses and chemical-resistant gloves to shield against gasoline contact. Protect skin with long sleeves. Before any disassembly, relieve the fuel system pressure. Locate the Fuel Pump Relay (usually in the engine compartment fuse box; consult your owner's manual for its exact position) and remove it with the engine cold. Start the engine; it will run until residual fuel pressure is depleted and then stall. Attempt to restart 2-3 times to ensure all pressure is relieved. Disconnect the negative battery cable to eliminate any risk of electrical sparks. Place the cable away from the battery terminal.
Gathering the necessary tools and parts beforehand prevents frustrating delays. Purchase the correct fuel pump module specifically designed for the 2015 Chrysler 200 engine size. Genuine Mopar, OEM-quality, or reputable aftermarket brands like Delphi, Denso, or Bosch are recommended. You will need a fuel pump removal lock ring tool specifically designed for your tank. Basic hand tools include wrenches and sockets (metric, typically 10mm-19mm), screwdrivers, line wrenches for fuel fittings, a torque wrench is essential for critical fasteners, and a floor jack with sturdy jack stands rated for your vehicle's weight. A drain pan suitable for capturing several gallons of gasoline is critical for safe fuel handling. Shop rags absorb spills, and safety glasses/gloves are mandatory. A helpful accessory is a transmission jack or a large, stable piece of plywood on a floor jack to safely lower and support the fuel tank. A fuel line disconnect tool set compatible with Chrysler fittings (often 3/8" and 5/16") is highly recommended. Ensure you have a suitable container to temporarily store the drained fuel and arrangements to dispose of it legally at an approved facility – never pour gasoline down drains or onto the ground.
Securing the vehicle properly provides critical safety for working underneath. Park the 200 on a level, concrete surface, away from wind or disturbances. Engage the parking brake firmly. Place wheel chocks securely against the front wheels, both front and back, to prevent any rolling movement. Consult your owner's manual or a service manual to locate the manufacturer's designated lift points under the vehicle. Using a floor jack, raise the rear of the car slowly and steadily until there's sufficient clearance under the rear axle and fuel tank. Position jack stands precisely at the designated lift points under the rear frame rails. Lower the car gently onto the jack stands, ensuring they are stable and fully engaged. Perform a firm push test on the car from multiple angles to confirm it's securely supported. Never rely solely on a jack; jack stands are the only safe support for entering under the vehicle.
Removing residual fuel from the tank minimizes spills and weight during removal. Locate the fuel drain access cover, typically a small plastic panel under the rear seat bottom cushion. Carefully pry off the plastic cover to expose the top of the fuel pump module. Do not attempt to disconnect anything here yet. Place the large drain pan centrally under the fuel tank. Find the fuel supply line running from the tank to the engine bay near the firewall – it's the larger diameter metal line. Carefully place rags around the connection point. Using the correct size line wrench to prevent rounding, loosen the fuel supply line connection at the tank end. Loosen it slightly to allow fuel to trickle out into the drain pan. Control the flow. Once only drips remain, fully disconnect the fitting. Allow several minutes for the tank to drain completely. An alternative method is siphoning fuel out through the filler neck using a hand pump siphon kit designed for gasoline, but access through the locked filler flap with its anti-siphon device can be challenging. Draining via the supply line is generally more direct. Ensure the drain pan is positioned to catch all dripping fuel.
Disconnecting essential lines and hoses is the next crucial step. Locate the fuel filler neck hose clamped to the fuel tank filler pipe near the tank's top front. Using a screwdriver or socket, loosen the hose clamp and carefully slide the hose off the tank's filler pipe. There will be residual fuel seepage – have rags ready. Trace the EVAP (Evaporative Emission Control) line running from the charcoal canister to the top of the tank. Identify its connection point – a quick-connect fitting, a push-lock hose, or a bolted flange. Carefully disconnect the EVAP line using the appropriate method (pushing tab release, twisting connector, or unbolting). Label all disconnected lines immediately using masking tape and a marker. Label both the line/hose end and its connection point on the tank/structure. This prevents dangerous misconnection during reassembly. Trace the fuel supply and return lines to their connection points on the tank or pump module itself. Using the dedicated fuel line disconnect tool, carefully release the locking tabs on each connector. Press the tool firmly into the fitting while simultaneously pulling the fuel line off. Expect minor fuel leakage – contain it with rags. Label these lines as well.
Detaching the tank from the vehicle frame requires careful support. Inspect the fuel tank straps holding the tank up to the underbody. There are typically two metal straps. Note the orientation and path of each strap. Locate the strap mounting bolts. These bolts thread into welded nuts or retainers on the chassis. Apply penetrating oil to the threads beforehand if they appear rusty. Using the appropriate socket (often 13mm, 15mm, or 18mm), carefully loosen and remove the bolts securing one end of each strap. Keep the bolts with their respective retainers. Crucially, before fully removing the last bolts holding the straps to the tank supports, position your floor jack or transmission jack/plywood platform securely under the center of the fuel tank. Pad the jack head with a block of wood to prevent slipping and damaging the tank. Raise the jack just enough to make firm contact with the tank, taking a small amount of weight – this provides critical support for the next step. Now, carefully remove the remaining bolts from one strap support bracket, allowing that end of the strap to hang loose. Repeat the process for the other strap. Slowly and steadily lower the jack supporting the fuel tank, maintaining firm contact, until the tank is suspended only by the jack and has cleared the strap hangers. Carefully lower the tank approximately 6-12 inches, ensuring you now have sufficient access to the top of the tank and the fuel pump module. Do not fully lower the tank to the ground yet. Avoid kinking or straining any lines still attached to the pump module.
Accessing the pump module requires careful disassembly on the lowered tank. Locate the large plastic lock ring securing the fuel pump module to the top of the tank. This ring threads into the tank flange. Use a suitable brass drift punch or a block of wood and a rubber mallet. Place the punch or wood against one of the ring's lugs and strike it firmly in the counterclockwise direction to break the ring loose. Avoid using a screwdriver directly on the plastic, as this risks cracking the ring or tank flange. Once loosened, continue turning the ring counterclockwise by hand until it disengages from the threads and lifts off. Carefully set it aside. Lift the entire fuel pump module assembly straight up and out of the tank. Be mindful of the attached wiring harness and any remaining fuel lines connected directly to the module top – you may need to disconnect these now if not done earlier. Label these connections meticulously if present before disconnecting. Pay close attention to the position and routing of the float arm (fuel level sender) and the fuel filter sock/strainer at the bottom of the module as you remove it – noting how it was oriented prevents damage on reinstallation.
The core repair step involves transferring components to the new pump module. Lay the old and new pump assemblies side by side on a clean, non-marring surface. Carefully disconnect the wiring harness connector(s) from the old pump module's top plate. Unclip and remove the pump retaining ring or bracket holding the actual fuel pump motor inside its holder. Crucially, disconnect the hoses or fittings connecting the pump motor outlet to the top plate and the feed line to the strainer sock. Gently transfer the pump motor itself from the old bracket to the identical location on the new module's bracket or holder. Avoid bending inlet tubes or outlet nipples. Securely reconnect any pump inlet/outlet hoses using new hose clamps specifically designed for fuel immersion. Transfer the fuel filter strainer sock from the old module to the new one, ensuring it clicks firmly into place on the pump inlet tube and is oriented correctly. Remove the fuel level sender/float arm assembly carefully from the old module. Install it precisely onto the new module's mounting points, ensuring the float arm moves freely and isn't kinked. Reconnect the sender's wiring to the connector on the new top plate. Place the pump retaining ring or bracket back onto the new module and secure it tightly over the transferred pump motor. Do not allow any debris or lint into the new pump or fuel lines during this process. A tiny piece of contamination can cause significant problems.
Reinstallation is the reverse sequence but demands meticulous attention to sealing and torque. Clean the large rubber O-ring/gasket sealing surface on both the tank's flange and the top plate of the new pump module thoroughly. Use lint-free shop rags and approved brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol. Ensure surfaces are completely dry and free of debris. Place the new large sealing O-ring/gasket onto the tank flange carefully. Do not reuse the old seal. Lower the new pump module assembly straight down into the tank, ensuring the float arm doesn't snag and is correctly oriented as noted earlier. Rotate the module slightly to align its keyway with the tank flange. Hand-thread the large plastic lock ring clockwise onto the tank flange. Seat it fully by hand. Using the brass punch/rubber mallet, firmly tap the lock ring clockwise until it feels tight and seated. Refer to a service manual for the exact tightening specification and pattern if available. Over-tightening cracks the ring; under-tightening causes leaks. Ensure the pump is correctly seated and the seal is uniformly compressed.
Reattach the fuel tank using precise procedures. Carefully raise the jack supporting the fuel tank back up towards its original position under the vehicle. Align the hanging tank straps with their mounting brackets on the chassis. Partially insert the bolts for each strap by hand to hold alignment. Thread the bolts back into the welded retainers by hand initially. Consult a service manual for the exact fuel tank strap bolt torque specification (typically in the range of 30-50 ft-lbs). Using your torque wrench, tighten all strap bolts to the specified value evenly. Double-check that the straps are correctly routed and seated in their channel on the tank. Improper strap routing can damage the tank or lines.
Reconnect all lines and hoses accurately and securely. Refer to the labels applied during disconnection. Reattach the fuel supply line and fuel return line to the pump module or tank using the quick-connect fittings, listening for a distinct click indicating they are fully seated. If disconnected from the module itself during pump transfer, reconnect those fittings now securely. Reconnect the EVAP line, ensuring the fitting is fully pushed/twisted or bolted on depending on type. Reinstall the filler neck hose onto the tank pipe and tighten the hose clamp securely. Triple-check every connection point for accuracy and security. Misconnected fuel lines can cause engine damage or dangerous leaks. Ensure no wires are pinched under the tank or straps.
Initial system pressurization requires a deliberate sequence. Lower the vehicle safely off the jack stands. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Insert the Fuel Pump Relay back into its slot in the fuse box. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" (RUN) position without starting the engine. Listen carefully for the fuel pump to energize – it should run for approximately 2 seconds to prime the system. Turn the key back to "OFF." Wait 10 seconds, then repeat the "ON" cycle once or twice more to build full system pressure. Visually inspect every connection point you worked on (under the hood, at the pump module, at the tank supply/return fittings) for any signs of liquid fuel leakage. Even a small seep indicates a problem that must be fixed before starting the engine. Check again around the top of the pump module and the filler neck connection.
Post-installation verification is critical for safety and performance. After confirming no leaks at static pressure, start the engine. Let it idle initially. Listen carefully for unusual fuel pump noises – a constant, smooth hum is normal; grinding or shrieking is not. Once idling smoothly, perform a thorough under-vehicle leak check again, especially while the engine is running and fuel is circulating. Pay close attention to all connection points on the tank and pump module. After warming up, take the vehicle for a short test drive in a safe area. Verify normal engine starting, smooth acceleration without hesitation or surging, stable idle, and full power restoration. Watch the fuel gauge to ensure it reads accurately and doesn't drop erratically or peg to empty (indicating a sender issue). Fill the tank and perform one final leak check underneath before driving normally. Expect potential air pockets in the line initially; these usually purge quickly.
When encountering difficulties, proceed with caution. Persistent leaks require shutting down and re-inspecting torque on fittings or O-ring sealing. If you suspect a defective pump or sender, professional diagnostic verification is wise. No-start conditions demand checking fuel pump relay operation, inertia switch status, and fuse integrity – these are often overlooked causes. Erratic gauge readings or false "Check Engine" lights related to the fuel sender usually stem from damage during installation or a defective unit. If the engine runs poorly after reassembly, revisit every connection and sensor plug on the pump module harness – an unplugged sender or pump connector is common. Assess your comfort level realistically; seeking professional help is not a sign of failure but rather a commitment to safety and vehicle reliability. A qualified mechanic possesses the tools and experience to resolve complex issues efficiently. The cost of professional installation (1200 typically) must be weighed against the risks of a botched DIY job leading to vehicle damage or safety hazards.
Successfully replacing your 2015 Chrysler 200 fuel pump provides immense satisfaction and cost savings. Prioritizing safety, methodically following steps, and employing patience transforms this substantial undertaking into a feasible DIY project. Precise component handling, thorough leak checks, and post-installation validation are paramount. Investing in quality parts and the correct tools yields long-term reliability. Recognizing your personal limits ensures the job is done safely and correctly. Understanding the meticulous effort required underscores the value of preventative maintenance – avoiding contaminated fuel or consistently driving on near-empty tanks significantly extends the lifespan of this critical component.