2015 Polaris Sportsman 570 Fuel Pump: Symptoms, Replacement Guide & Prevention Tips

If your 2015 Polaris Sportsman 570 experiences hard starting, stalling, loss of power, or won't start at all, a failing fuel pump is a likely culprit. Located inside the fuel tank, this electric pump delivers pressurized fuel to the engine. When it malfunctions, your Sportsman simply won't run properly. Recognizing the signs of a bad pump and knowing how to replace it are essential skills for owners of this popular ATV. Regular fuel system maintenance can also significantly extend the pump's life and prevent inconvenient breakdowns on the trail.

Understanding the Fuel Pump's Role

The 2015 Polaris Sportsman 570 utilizes an electric fuel pump. Its primary function is crucial: to draw gasoline from the fuel tank and deliver it under constant, adequate pressure to the fuel injectors. The injectors then precisely spray this fuel into the engine's intake ports. This system differs significantly from older carbureted ATVs that relied on gravity or engine vacuum for fuel delivery. Modern fuel-injected engines demand precise fuel pressure for optimal combustion. Any failure or weakness in the pump directly disrupts this critical supply chain, preventing the engine from starting or running correctly.

Common Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump

Identifying a failing fuel pump early prevents being stranded. Key signs specific to the 2015 Sportsman 570 include:

  1. Engine Cranks But Won't Start: This is often the most obvious sign. If your ATV's starter motor turns the engine over normally but the engine doesn't fire up, and you've ruled out spark or obvious wiring issues, fuel delivery is the primary suspect. A dead pump provides no fuel to the engine.
  2. Hard Starting (Especially when Hot): A weakening pump may struggle to generate full pressure when hot due to internal wear or electrical resistance issues. You might find the ATV starts reasonably well cold but requires excessive cranking, sputters, or fails to start entirely after the engine or surrounding environment is warm.
  3. Loss of Power & Hesitation During Acceleration: Insufficient fuel pressure caused by a weakening pump starves the engine during moments of higher demand, like accelerating, climbing hills, or pulling loads. Expect noticeable sluggishness, jerking, hesitation, or even backfiring. Performance feels flat.
  4. Engine Sputtering, Surging, or Stalling (Especially Under Load/RPM): As the pump intermittently fails or pressure fluctuates, the engine may run roughly. Symptoms can include brief moments of power loss accompanied by sputtering sounds, unexpected surges in engine speed, or complete stalling when trying to maintain higher RPMs or under load.
  5. Engine Dies After Running for a Short Time: The pump may work initially when cold but fails as it heats up internally or draws in debris-laden fuel. The ATV may start and run fine for several minutes, then unexpectedly sputter and die. It may restart once cooled down, only to repeat the cycle.
  6. Loud Whining or Humming Noise from the Fuel Tank Area: While fuel pumps normally emit a faint hum, a loud, high-pitched whining, buzzing, or droning noise originating from under the seat/tank area can indicate a pump straining due to blockage, excessive wear, or impending bearing failure. This is a clear warning sign. Listen for this sound when you first turn the key to the "ON" position (before cranking).
  7. No Sound from the Fuel Tank at Key-On: Typically, you should hear a brief (1-2 second) whirring or humming sound from the fuel tank area immediately after turning the ignition key to the "ON" position (before cranking). This is the pump priming the system and building pressure. If you hear no sound at all, the pump is likely not receiving power, the pump motor itself is failed, or a critical wiring issue exists.

When is Replacement Necessary?

Consider replacing your 2015 Sportsman 570 fuel pump if it exhibits multiple symptoms like hard starting or loss of power. Replacement becomes unavoidable if the pump is completely dead, leading to a no-start condition where the engine cranks but doesn't fire. A worn-out pump causing consistent performance problems despite proper testing and maintenance also requires replacement. Replacing an aging pump preventatively before it fails during a ride can prevent trailside breakdowns and potential towing costs.

Guide to Replacing the 2015 Sportsman 570 Fuel Pump

Replacing the fuel pump is a manageable task for mechanically inclined owners, requiring moderate skill and basic tools. Prioritize safety by ensuring the work area has excellent ventilation – gasoline fumes are hazardous. Avoid sparks or flames nearby.

Required Tools & Parts:

  • Replacement Fuel Pump Module Assembly (OEM Polaris part # 2525034 or high-quality aftermarket equivalent. Crucially, ensure it explicitly states compatibility with the 2015 Sportsman 570/500 HO).
  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • Basic Socket Wrenches and Sockets (Commonly needed: 8mm, 10mm, sometimes 13mm)
  • Torx Drivers/Star Drivers (Size T20 is often needed for seat bolts)
  • Pliers (Needle-nose can be helpful)
  • Small Flathead Screwdriver
  • Fuel-Resistant Gloves
  • Safety Glasses
  • Drain Pan (Large enough to hold several gallons of fuel)
  • Clean Rags or Shop Towels (For spills and cleaning)
  • Thread Sealant/Pipe Dope (Specifically rated for gasoline/O2 sensors if replacing the pump filter)
  • Optional but Recommended: Fuel Line Clamp Pliers or Small Hose Pinch-Off Clamps (To minimize fuel spillage).

Step-by-Step Procedure:

  1. Prepare the ATV: Park the Sportsman on a level surface. Engage the parking brake firmly. Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position. Locate and remove the main fuse responsible for the fuel pump. This prevents accidental operation while disconnected. Consult your owner's or service manual for the exact fuse location (often in a fuse block under the hood or seat; frequently labeled "FP" or "Fuel Pump").
  2. Access the Fuel Tank: Lift the ATV's cargo rack/box if applicable. Remove the driver and passenger seats. The seat mounting bolts typically use Torx (often T20) heads located at the front corners and sometimes rear of the seats. Lift the seats off carefully. The fuel tank and pump assembly are now accessible under the seats. Visually inspect the top of the tank and the wiring harness connected to it – that's the pump module assembly.
  3. Relieve Fuel System Pressure: While fuel pressure relief isn't as critical as in high-pressure automotive systems due to the lack of a Schrader valve, it's still prudent. With the pump fuse removed, attempt to start the engine. It may crank briefly or sputter if residual fuel exists but will not start. Crank for 5-10 seconds total. This bleeds off most residual pressure.
  4. Disconnect the Electrical Connector: Locate the main electrical connector plugged into the top of the fuel pump module assembly. Release the locking tab or squeeze the sides (depending on connector type). Carefully pull the connector straight apart. Avoid yanking on the wires. Set the harness side aside. Inspect the connector terminals for corrosion or damage and clean if necessary.
  5. Disconnect the Fuel Lines: Identify the fuel supply hose running from the pump assembly to the engine compartment (usually a larger diameter hose). Locate the smaller diameter fuel return hose coming back to the assembly. Before disconnecting, place a drain pan under the lines and tank access area.
    • Recommended: Use a small pair of fuel line clamp pliers or specific pinch-off clamps on the hoses near the engine side connections (if accessible) to minimize spillage. If using pliers, ensure they have plastic/nylon pads to avoid hose damage.
    • Use a small flathead screwdriver to gently depress the spring tabs on the sides of the quick-connect fittings where they attach to the plastic nipples on the pump assembly. Hold the fitting body with one hand, depress both tabs simultaneously, and pull the fitting straight off the nipple.
    • Work carefully – significant fuel spillage can occur. Be prepared.
  6. Remove the Fuel Pump Module: Around the perimeter of the large plastic ring (retainer/lock ring) sealing the pump assembly into the tank top, you'll find multiple retaining bolts (typically 8-10). Use the appropriate socket or driver (commonly 8mm or 10mm) to carefully loosen and remove these bolts in a crossing pattern, similar to loosening lug nuts on a car tire. Place bolts safely aside.
  7. Carefully Lift the Assembly Out: Once all bolts are removed, the large plastic lock ring can be lifted off. Be cautious – a large O-ring seal sits under this ring. Set the lock ring and O-ring aside on a clean surface. You can now grasp the top plate of the fuel pump module assembly and lift it straight up and out of the fuel tank. Lift slowly and gently to avoid sloshing excessive fuel. The fuel level sensor float arm may catch slightly; rotate the assembly as needed to clear it. Have your drain pan ready underneath.
  8. Drain Fuel and Access the Old Pump: Carefully place the entire module assembly into your large drain pan. Allow fuel to drain from the pump basket and internal passages. Most assemblies feature a screw-on lower housing containing the actual pump element, filter, and often the fuel filter. This lower section unscrews (clockwise or counterclockwise depending on model – observe carefully) from the metal top plate/hanger assembly. You may need to remove a wire retainer clip securing the electrical leads. Unplug the internal electrical connector for the pump motor.
  9. Transfer Components (Optional but Common): Many replacement pump assemblies come without the metal top plate and hanger assembly that includes the fuel level sender. Verify compatibility first. To reuse your existing plate/sender, you must transfer the new pump and lower housing assembly onto your existing top plate.
    • Carefully disconnect the pump's internal wiring connector on the old assembly.
    • Unscrew the old lower housing with pump from the top plate.
    • Remove the old O-ring between the top plate and lower housing – it MUST be replaced with the new one supplied with the new pump assembly.
    • Attach the new lower housing/pump assembly to your existing top plate using the new O-ring. Tighten the housing securely according to replacement kit instructions (often hand-tight plus a specific turn). Ensure the electrical plug for the pump motor aligns correctly. Reconnect the internal wiring connector.
  10. Prepare New Pump Module for Installation: Ensure all internal connections on the new/rebuilt module are clean and secure. Verify the large tank seal O-ring is clean, undamaged, lubricated lightly with fresh gasoline or compatible petroleum jelly (if recommended by the kit), and correctly positioned either in the groove on the tank or on the module itself, depending on design.
  11. Install the New Fuel Pump Module: Carefully lower the new pump module straight down into the fuel tank opening. Ensure the fuel level float arm clears the inside of the tank without binding. Align the bolt holes in the top plate with the holes in the tank collar.
  12. Reinstall the Lock Ring and Bolts: Place the large plastic lock ring back onto the tank collar over the pump module top plate. Install the retaining bolts by hand first, ensuring they thread easily. Gradually tighten the bolts in a crossing pattern (opposing sides), applying even pressure to avoid warping the ring. Tighten the bolts firmly and evenly according to specifications or until snug, but avoid overtightening which risks cracking the plastic ring. Ensure the ring sits flush and the module doesn't rock.
  13. Reconnect Fuel Lines: Reconnect the fuel supply and return lines to their respective nipples on the pump assembly. Push the quick-connect fittings firmly onto the nipples until you hear a distinct click signifying they are fully locked. Tug gently on each line to confirm they are secure. Ensure no kinks in the hoses. Remove any temporary hose clamps/pinches.
  14. Reconnect Electrical Connector: Plug the main electrical harness connector back into the pump module. Push firmly until the locking tab or mechanism clicks fully into place. Verify it's secure. Reinstall the fuse for the fuel pump that you removed earlier.
  15. Reinstall Seats: Position the passenger and driver seats back onto the ATV frame. Reinstall and tighten the seat mounting bolts firmly with the appropriate Torx driver.
  16. Cycle the Fuel System & Check for Leaks: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do NOT crank the starter). You should hear the new fuel pump run for about 1-2 seconds as it primes the system. Listen for any unusual sounds. Cycle the key "ON" and "OFF" position 2-3 times, pausing each time in the "ON" position to let the pump run briefly. This builds adequate pressure. Carefully inspect all around the top of the fuel pump module, fuel lines, and connections for any signs of dripping fuel leaks. Absolutely DO NOT attempt to start the engine if any leak is observed!
  17. Start the Engine: If no leaks are detected, attempt to start the engine. It may crank slightly longer than usual as fuel fully purges any trapped air. Expect it to start and likely settle into a stable idle after a few moments. Listen for smooth operation.
  18. Verify Operation & Perform a Test Ride: Allow the engine to warm up. Check throttle response is smooth without hesitation. Once warmed up, turn the engine off and restart to check hot start performance. If all seems well initially, take a short, cautious test ride in a safe area, gradually increasing load. Pay close attention to acceleration response and mid-range power to confirm the pump is delivering fuel adequately. Monitor for any recurrence of previous symptoms.

Testing the Fuel Pump (Before Replacement)

While the above guide covers replacement, confirming the pump is the issue saves time and money. A simple initial test involves listening for the pump at key-on and checking for voltage. More thorough testing requires measuring fuel pressure.

  • Basic Power Check: After cycling the key and listening for no prime sound, locate the fuel pump fuse and relay. Check fuse condition visually and with a multimeter for continuity. Swap the fuel pump relay with another identical one in the fuse box (e.g., headlight relay) to test the relay itself.
  • Electrical Power Verification (At the Pump Connector): Disconnect the electrical plug at the top of the pump module (Steps 1-4 of Replacement Guide above). Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. Using a multimeter set to DC Volts (scale 0-20V), probe the socket terminals on the vehicle wiring harness side of the connector. Key ON should deliver battery voltage (typically 12V+) for 1-2 seconds across the correct terminals. Consult a wiring diagram if necessary. No voltage indicates a wiring/relay/fuse/ECU issue upstream. If voltage is present at the harness connector but the pump doesn't run when plugged in, the pump is faulty.
  • Professional Fuel Pressure Test: The most definitive test involves connecting a pressure gauge to the fuel system. This usually requires accessing the fuel line between the pump and the injectors and installing a Schrader valve adapter kit or splicing into the line (preferably near the throttle body/engine). The engine cold fuel pressure specification for the 2015 Sportsman 570 is crucial to know (consult service manual; often around 39 PSI +/- small tolerance). Key ON should show this pressure build and hold. Pressure should also maintain at specified levels during engine idling and increase slightly under acceleration (vacuum hose off pressure regulator on some models). Low or zero pressure confirms a pump/system blockage/filter or regulator failure.

Maintaining Your Fuel Pump to Maximize Longevity

Proactive maintenance extends the life of the replacement pump:

  • Use Fresh Fuel: Avoid letting fuel sit for extended periods, especially ethanol-blended gas, which degrades and absorbs water. Stale fuel clogs filters and causes pump strain. Use fuel stabilizer consistently if storing beyond a month.
  • Prioritize High-Quality Fuel: Utilize reputable, high-turnover gas stations. Consider premium grade if recommended, but more critically, avoid stations with old tanks or poor reputations.
  • Regular Fuel Filter Replacement: Replace the fuel filter (often integrated into the pump assembly or a separate inline filter on earlier models) at the intervals specified in your owner's manual. Ignoring this allows debris to reach the pump inlet screen and shorten pump life.
  • Keep the Tank Above 1/4 Full: Running the tank consistently low forces the pump to work harder to draw fuel and causes it to run hotter, accelerating wear. The fuel itself helps cool the pump motor. Make it a habit to refuel before the gauge drops significantly below 1/4 tank.
  • Avoid Water Contamination: Water in the fuel causes corrosion within the pump and injectors, leading to premature failure. Avoid riding through deep standing water where the tank vent could potentially suck water in. Repair damaged or missing fuel caps immediately.
  • Store Properly: Use ethanol treatment stabilizer if storing for winter or long periods. Follow recommended storage procedures outlined in your owner's manual regarding fuel level and preparation.
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