2016 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump: Your Complete Guide to Symptoms, Replacement, and Cost

Replacing a failing fuel pump in your 2016 Dodge Dart is a critical repair to restore engine performance, fuel economy, and overall drivability. Recognizing the symptoms (cranking/no start, engine sputtering, loss of power), understanding the replacement process (requiring dropping the fuel tank or accessing the pump through the trunk floor on SXT and above trims), and knowing the costs ($200-$600+ for the pump assembly plus labor) are essential for maintaining your vehicle. Ignoring fuel pump problems leads to being stranded and potentially damaging other components.

Understanding the Fuel Pump's Role in Your 2016 Dodge Dart

The fuel pump is the heart of your Dart's fuel delivery system. It's an electric pump housed within the fuel tank assembly. Its sole job is to draw gasoline from the tank and push it at high pressure through the fuel lines to the fuel rail, where it feeds the individual fuel injectors located at each engine cylinder. The powertrain control module (PCM) regulates the pump's operation based on signals from various sensors, ensuring the exact pressure required for optimal combustion at all engine speeds and loads. Without a properly functioning fuel pump delivering sufficient pressure and volume, your engine simply cannot run correctly, if at all. All Dart engines (2.0L, 2.4L, 1.4L Turbo) rely on this same fundamental pressurized fuel delivery system.

Top Signs Your 2016 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump is Failing

Being vigilant for these symptoms can help you diagnose a failing fuel pump before you experience a complete breakdown:

1. Engine Cranks But Won't Start: This is one of the most common and definitive signs. If your engine turns over strongly when you turn the key but refuses to fire up, it strongly indicates a lack of fuel reaching the cylinders. While other issues (like a bad ignition switch, failed crankshaft position sensor, or completely dead battery preventing cranking) exist, a no-fuel situation due to a failed pump is a prime suspect. Always check for obvious issues like an empty fuel tank first.
2. Sputtering Engine (Especially Under Load): As a pump begins to weaken or becomes intermittent, it struggles to maintain consistent pressure. This often manifests as engine hesitation, stumbling, jerking, or a surging sensation, particularly noticeable when accelerating, climbing hills, or carrying extra weight – situations demanding the most fuel. The engine feels like it's losing power momentarily or repeatedly.
3. Loss of Power During Acceleration: Closely related to sputtering, a failing pump may be unable to supply the necessary volume of fuel demanded during hard acceleration. The engine revs slowly, feels sluggish, lacks its usual responsiveness, or may even backfire due to an overly lean air-fuel mixture.
4. Engine Stalling: A pump on its last legs might cut out completely under certain conditions (like idling at a stoplight or during deceleration) or after the car has been running for a while and heats up, causing the pump motor to fail. Stalling can also be caused by other electrical or sensor issues but warrants fuel pressure checks.
5. High-Pitched Whining or Humming Noise from the Fuel Tank: While modern fuel pumps do emit a faint hum, an unusually loud, persistent, high-pitched whine or buzzing sound coming from the rear of the vehicle (especially before engine start or during operation) often signifies wear within the pump motor or bearings. The noise typically intensifies as the pump struggles.
6. Poor Fuel Economy: A deteriorating pump may run longer, work harder inefficiently, or cause the engine control system to run rich (too much fuel) to compensate for perceived low pressure, leading to a noticeable and otherwise unexplained drop in miles per gallon.
7. Check Engine Light (CEL) with Fuel Pressure Codes: While not always triggered immediately, a failing pump will eventually cause insufficient rail pressure. This can lead to Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) like P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low) or P0190 (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit). Use an OBD-II scanner to retrieve these codes – they point directly to fuel delivery issues. Note: Multiple issues can cause low pressure (clogged filter, bad pressure regulator, leaking line), but the pump is a common culprit.

Confirming Fuel Pump Failure Before Replacement

Diagnosis is crucial to avoid unnecessary parts replacement:

1. Check Fuel Pressure: This is the definitive test.
   • Locate the Schrader valve test port on the fuel rail under the hood (consult owner's manual or service guide for exact location on your Dart engine).
   • Connect a mechanical fuel pressure test gauge designed for fuel injection systems to the test port.
   • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start the engine). Listen for the pump priming cycle (about 2 seconds). Observe the gauge reading immediately after priming and note if it holds pressure.
   • Start the engine. Compare the pressure reading at idle to the manufacturer's specification for your specific Dart engine (this information is found in service manuals like those from AllDataDIY or Mitchell 1, or sometimes online forums/specific repair guides). Typically ranges from 50-75 PSI, depending on the engine and system type.
   • Watch for pressure fluctuations or drops that indicate pump wear. Failure to build pressure points strongly to a pump failure.
   • Some shops use advanced scan tools that can read live data Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor readings, which correlate to gauge pressure.
2. Listen for the Pump Prime: When you first turn the ignition key to "ON" (without starting), you should hear a distinct humming sound from the rear of the car for about 1-3 seconds. This is the pump pressurizing the system. No sound could indicate a dead pump, blown fuse, faulty relay, or wiring issue. Caution: Do this test multiple times. Sometimes an intermittent pump will work occasionally.
3. Check Fuel Pump Fuse and Relay:
   • Locate the fuse box(es) in your Dart (typically one under the hood and one inside the cabin/driver's kick panel). Consult your owner's manual for fuse/relay diagrams.
   • Identify the fuse and relay dedicated to the fuel pump (often labeled "FP," "Fuel Pump," or "F/PMP").
   • Use a fuse puller to remove the fuel pump fuse. Visually inspect the thin metal strip inside for breaks or signs of melting/charring. Test it with a multimeter set to continuity (beep) or ohms (should be near 0 ohms). Replace if blown.
   • To test the relay: Locate a relay in the same box with the same part number (often identical to the horn relay or another non-critical component). Swap the suspected fuel pump relay with a known good relay of the same type. Try starting the engine. If it works, replace the original relay. For a more thorough test, consult a relay testing guide using a multimeter.
4. Test for Voltage: If the pump is silent, use a multimeter to check for 12V power at the electrical connector to the fuel pump module. This requires gaining access to the top of the pump/sending unit assembly inside the tank, which is nearly as involved as replacing the pump itself. It's usually done as part of the replacement process if the fuse/relay/prime test are inconclusive but failure is still suspected.

The 2016 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump Replacement Process (Overview)

Replacing the fuel pump is a moderately complex DIY task requiring mechanical aptitude, safety precautions, and proper tools. Safety is paramount due to flammable fuel vapors.

1. Depressurize the System:
   • Locate the fuel pump fuse or relay in the under-hood fuse box as identified earlier.
   • Start the engine and let it idle. Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay. The engine will stall once residual fuel pressure is depleted. Crank the engine for a few seconds to ensure all pressure is gone. Caution: Fuel spray under pressure is dangerous. Do not skip depressurization.
2. Disconnect the Battery: Always disconnect the negative battery cable before performing any electrical work near fuel components to prevent sparks.
3. Gain Access to the Fuel Pump Module: This is the core of the job.
   • Method 1 (Recommended for SXT & GT trims): Access Panel Under Rear Seat/Trunk. Many 2012-2016 Darts (especially higher trims) have an access panel built into the body under the rear seat cushion or within the trunk floor covering. This is the preferred method as it avoids dropping the tank.
     • Remove the rear seat bottom cushion (usually clips or bolts).
     • Pull back the floor carpeting/cargo cover in the trunk if accessing from there.
     • Locate the oval or circular metal panel. Remove the screws or bolts securing it.
     • Carefully pry off the panel to expose the top of the fuel pump/sending unit assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines.
   • Method 2: Dropping the Fuel Tank. Required if no access panel exists (common on base SE models). Involves substantial effort.
     • Siphon or drain remaining fuel from the tank. Use a hand siphon pump or open the fuel line connection at the engine side (with a drain pan) while briefly turning the ignition to "ON" (pump will run momentarily - be prepared to turn off immediately). Safety First: Use only approved containers in well-ventilated areas away from sparks/open flames.
     • Support the vehicle securely on jack stands rated for its weight. Use wheel chocks.
     • Disconnect the fuel filler neck hose clamp from the tank side.
     • Disconnect the EVAP (vapor) hoses.
     • Locate and disconnect the electrical connector for the pump module and any ground straps.
     • Support the fuel tank securely with a transmission jack or floor jack and a large piece of wood.
     • Remove the straps securing the tank (usually 2-3 bolts/nuts per strap).
     • Carefully lower the tank several inches, enough to access the top of the pump module. Disconnect the fuel lines at the module top using a fuel line disconnect tool. Note: These plastic quick-connect fittings are delicate; improper use can break them. Finally, disconnect the electrical connector if not done earlier. Lower the tank fully.
4. Remove the Fuel Pump Lock Ring: Visible once the access panel is off or the tank is lowered sufficiently. The large plastic locking ring secures the pump assembly into the tank top. Use a brass drift punch and hammer, carefully tapping the ring counterclockwise to unscrew it. Special spanner wrenches are available but often the drift punch method is practical. Caution: Striking metal tools near the tank opening requires extreme care to avoid sparks. Brass is recommended as it's non-sparking.
5. Remove Old Pump Assembly: Once the lock ring is unscrewed and removed, lift the old pump/sending unit assembly straight up and out of the tank. Be mindful of the float arm (sending unit) and the filter sock. Note its orientation. Clean any debris from the tank opening.
6. Prepare and Install the New Fuel Pump Module:
   • Compare the new assembly meticulously to the old one. Ensure all parts (pump body, filter sock, float/sending unit arm) are identical or compatible. Using the wrong part can cause gauge inaccuracies or fitment issues.
   • Transfer the O-ring/gasket from the new pump kit onto the tank opening groove. Apply a light coating of fresh engine oil or silicone grease only to the outside of the new O-ring. This helps it seal properly and prevents pinching/damage during installation. Do not use petroleum-based grease on rubber. Ensure the O-ring groove is clean.
   • Carefully lower the new pump assembly straight down into the tank, aligning it correctly with the tank opening. The keyway on the pump flange must align with the tab on the tank opening. Ensure the float arm moves freely.
   • Seat the pump flange fully into the tank opening.
   • Install the plastic lock ring by hand as much as possible. Then, use the brass drift punch and hammer to gently tap it clockwise until it is fully seated and tight against the stops. Do not overtighten.
7. Reconnect Hoses and Wiring: Reattach the fuel lines to the pump module top using the quick-connect fittings. Push firmly until they click. Give them a gentle tug to confirm they are locked. Reconnect the electrical connector firmly.
8. Reinstall Access Panel or Raise Tank:
   • With Access Panel: Clean the area around the opening on both the body and the panel. Place the panel back over the opening, ensuring any gasket is correctly positioned. Reinstall the screws/bolts securely.
   • With Tank Drop: Carefully raise the tank back into position. Secure it by reinstalling the tank straps and tightening bolts/nuts to factory torque specs (if specified). Reconnect the filler neck hose clamp, EVAP hoses, electrical connector, and any ground straps. Remove the jack support.
9. Reconnect Battery: Reattach the negative battery cable.
10. Test for Leaks Before Starting:
    • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start). You should hear the new pump run for about 2-3 seconds to prime the system.
    • Visually inspect all connections you touched – pump lock ring seal, fuel lines at pump module, fuel lines under hood – for any signs of fuel leaks. Use a flashlight and mirror as needed. Critical Step: Check thoroughly for several minutes. The smell of raw gasoline is also a warning sign. DO NOT START THE ENGINE IF YOU SEE OR SMELL A FUEL LEAK. Identify and correct the issue immediately.
11. Start the Engine and Verify: If no leaks are found, start the engine. It may crank slightly longer initially while air is purged from the system. Listen for smooth operation. Check for leaks again under the car while the engine is running at idle. Take the car for a careful test drive, paying attention to power delivery and any recurrence of previous symptoms. Verify the fuel gauge is working correctly.

Choosing a Replacement Fuel Pump for Your 2016 Dodge Dart

Selecting the right part is crucial for longevity and proper function:

1. OEM vs. Aftermarket:
   • OEM (Mopar - Part Number often 68275762AA or similar suffix): Manufactured to Dodge's specifications, typically offering the highest reliability and compatibility assurance. Guaranteed to match the original design. Significantly more expensive. Ideal if budget allows and maximum reliability is desired.
   • Premium Aftermarket (Bosch, Denso, Delphi, Airtex, Carter): Reputable brands offering quality components. Often better value for money. Performance and longevity are generally very good to excellent, approaching OEM quality in many cases. Bosch and Denso are Tier 1 suppliers to many manufacturers. Research specific brand/model reviews for the Dart. Ensure they specify compatibility with your exact Dart model year, trim, and engine size. Using an incorrect pump can damage the fuel system or engine.
   • Economy Aftermarket: Sold under various brand names, significantly cheaper. Quality control and materials can be inconsistent. Lifespan is frequently shorter, sometimes failing prematurely (6-18 months). Risk of fuel gauge sender inaccuracy or premature pump motor failure is higher. Generally not recommended for critical components like the fuel pump.
2. Buy the Full Module Assembly: Unless you are an experienced technician with specific testing equipment, replacing just the electric pump motor while reusing the original assembly carrier, float arm, and sending unit is not recommended for DIYers. The labor savings are negligible compared to the risk of introducing leaks or problems with the delicate fuel gauge sender circuitry during disassembly/reassembly. Complete module kits (including the carrier, pump motor, filter sock, strainer, fuel level sender, and seal) are readily available and simpler to install. Ensure the kit includes the correct lock ring O-ring.
3. Verify Compatibility: Triple-check the listing. Enter your Dart's exact details (2016, Dodge Dart, Engine Size, Trim Level - SE, SXT, Aero, GT, Limited) and often your VIN into the retailer's (RockAuto, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, NAPA, Advance Auto Parts, etc.) fitment tool. Cross-reference the part number provided by the tool with the listings on the retailer's site. If your Dart has an access panel (common on SXT and above), verify the replacement pump module lists that installation method. Some early SE models only have the drop-tank method.

Estimated Costs to Replace a 2016 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump

Costs vary based on part choice and labor source:

1. Parts Cost:
   • OEM (Mopar) Module: $350-$650+ (MSRP at dealerships is often high; independent dealers/online Mopar stores may be lower).
   • Premium Aftermarket Module (Bosch, Delphi, Denso, Airtex Pro): $150-$400.
   • Economy Aftermarket Module: $80-$150 (use with caution).
   • Crucial Gaskets/O-rings: Should be included with the module kit. Have spares (kit-specific) on hand. Don't reuse old seals!
   • Fuel: Cost of refilling the tank.
   • (Optional but Recommended) New Fuel Filter: While the pump sock is often replaced with the module, the Dart usually has an inline fuel filter under the car. If not replaced recently (check service records), replacing it during this major service is highly advisable ($20-$40).
2. Professional Labor Cost: Repair shops charge by "book time." Replacing the fuel pump on a 2016 Dart typically pays 2.5 to 4.0 hours of labor. Rates vary significantly by region and shop ($100-$175 per hour is common). Total labor cost can range from $250to$700. Access panel jobs are usually slightly less time (thus cheaper) than full tank-drop jobs.
3. Total Repair Cost:
   • Dealership: Using OEM parts and dealership rates, expect $700-$1500+.
   • Independent Shop (Using Premium Aftermarket): $500-$1000+ is a common range.
   • DIY (Using Premium Aftermarket): $150-$450 (just the cost of the pump kit, tools you may need to purchase/borrow, and fuel).
4. Getting Quotes: Always get quotes from 2-3 reputable independent mechanics specializing in Chrysler vehicles or general auto repair. Provide them with your exact car details (engine, trim). Ask specifically what brand and part number they plan to use and get the quote in writing. Dealerships are often the highest-priced option for this repair.

Frequently Asked Questions About the 2016 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump

1. Do I really need to replace a failing fuel pump? Yes. It will not get better. Complete failure leaves you stranded. Partial failure damages engine performance and fuel economy, and can eventually burn out the pump entirely.
2. Can I drive with a failing fuel pump? Only as far as necessary to get to a repair shop immediately. The risk of sudden stalling – potentially in traffic or dangerous locations – is severe. Continuing to drive risks damaging the catalytic converter if unburned fuel enters the exhaust due to misfires.
3. Why did my fuel pump fail? Common causes: Normal wear (100k+ miles is typical lifespan, but can fail earlier), habitually driving with very low fuel (keeps the pump submerged/less cool), severe overheating due to pump running continuously with clogged filter/sock, contaminated fuel (dirt/water), electrical issues (voltage spikes, bad grounds), and manufacturing defects.
4. Is "fuel pump programming" required after replacement? For the 2016 Dodge Dart, no specialized "programming" or "relearning" procedure is required for the fuel pump itself. The system relearns fuel trims automatically as you drive. However, the fuel gauge sending unit is part of the pump assembly. Calibrating the gauge might involve a simple procedure (e.g., cycling ignition key on/off multiple times with specific pauses). Consult your owner's manual or online forum specifics after installation. Typically, running the tank low to empty and then refilling to full helps calibrate it. No dealer-specific scan tools are needed for the fuel pump calibration.
5. Should I replace the fuel filter at the same time? Absolutely yes. The 2016 Dart has an inline fuel filter under the car. If not replaced within the last 30,000-40,000 miles, replacing it simultaneously while the system is depressurized and accessible makes perfect sense. It ensures your new pump isn't straining against a partially clogged filter.
6. What other parts should I consider replacing? If your car has significant miles (over 75k-100k), the fuel pump relay is a relatively inexpensive part. Replacing it preventatively while you're in the fuse box checking fuses is a good idea. Inspect the fuel pump fuse visually and test/replace if any doubt. Check the lock ring O-ring included in your new pump kit matches the old one exactly. Have extra shop towels and fuel-rated gloves on hand.

Maintaining Your New Fuel Pump and Fuel System

To maximize the lifespan of your investment:

• Avoid Consistently Running on a Near-Empty Tank: Keep your tank at least 1/4 full whenever possible. Fuel serves as a coolant and lubricant for the electric pump motor. Low fuel levels cause the pump to work harder and overheat, significantly shortening its life. The filter sock also acts as a final safeguard against debris sucked into the pump if the tank level dips very low.
• Use Quality Gasoline: Reputable gas stations generally have better filtration and handle fuel properly. Very cheap gas may have higher risks of contamination or water absorption. Using the manufacturer's recommended octane rating is best practice.
• Change Your Fuel Filter at Recommended Intervals: While the pump sock filters large debris, the main inline fuel filter under the car traps finer contaminants before they reach the injectors. A clogged filter forces the pump to work much harder. Refer to your Dart's maintenance schedule; replace the filter every 30,000-40,000 miles or as specified. Doing this proactively protects the pump.
• Address Performance Issues Promptly: If you notice any recurrence of symptoms like hesitation, loss of power, or unusual noises, investigate and fix the issue early. Delaying repairs can put extra strain on the fuel pump and other components.

Replacing the fuel pump in your 2016 Dodge Dart is a significant but essential repair when needed. By understanding the symptoms, the diagnostic process, the replacement procedure (especially the access panel method), part choices, and costs, you can make informed decisions and ensure your Dart regains its reliability and performance for miles to come.