96 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump Replacement: Symptoms, Repair Guide, and Solutions

Replacing a faulty fuel pump in your 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ is the definitive solution to resolve symptoms like engine sputtering, hard starting, stalling, or complete no-start conditions caused by lack of fuel pressure. The repair involves accessing the fuel pump module assembly located inside the fuel tank, requiring specific tools, safety precautions, and replacement parts costing between $120to$350+. While challenging for DIY mechanics due to needing to lower the fuel tank, a successful replacement fully restores proper engine performance and fuel delivery. Choosing a quality replacement pump like Bosch or Delphi is essential for long-term reliability.

A failed or failing fuel pump in your 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ generation) is a critical issue demanding immediate attention. The fuel pump’s job is simple but vital: it draws gasoline from the tank and delivers it under precise pressure to the fuel injectors in the engine. Without this constant flow at the correct pressure (typically 45-55 psi for the 4.0L straight-six or 5.2L V8 engines), the engine cannot start or run properly. When the pump fails, the results range from inconvenient to dangerous situations like stalling at highway speeds. Recognizing the symptoms early is key.

Comprehensive 1996 Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump Failure Symptoms

The fuel pump in your 1996 Grand Cherokee can exhibit various warning signs before failing completely. Recognizing these symptoms promptly helps prevent being stranded:

1. Engine Sputtering or Hesitation (Especially Under Load): A weak pump struggles to maintain adequate pressure when fuel demand increases, like accelerating hard, climbing hills, or carrying a heavy load. The engine may feel like it’s missing or momentarily losing power.
2. Sudden Engine Stalling: This is a major red flag. A pump that cuts out unexpectedly, often when hot (due to increased resistance in failing electrical windings), will cause the engine to die without warning. It may restart after cooling down briefly, only to stall again later.
3. Difficult Starting (Extended Cranking): If the engine cranks longer than usual before starting, or requires multiple attempts, it often points to low residual fuel pressure. A healthy pump maintains pressure in the lines even when off. A weak pump allows pressure to bleed down, requiring extra crank time to rebuild it.
4. Engine Won’t Start At All (No Fuel Pressure): Complete pump failure means no fuel reaches the injectors. You’ll hear the starter engage, but the engine will not fire. This is the most definitive symptom but means you’re already stranded.
5. Loss of Power at High Speeds/RPM: The pump cannot supply the required volume of fuel for sustained high-speed driving. Performance feels sluggish, and the engine may surge or stumble as fuel delivery fluctuates.
6. Reduced Fuel Economy: While not solely caused by the fuel pump, a failing pump working harder than necessary can contribute to a noticeable decrease in miles per gallon.
7. Whining or Humming Noise from the Fuel Tank: A noticeable increase in the loudness or pitch of the fuel pump’s normal humming sound, or a distinct whining/groaning noise, indicates internal wear or impending failure. This noise often changes or intensifies when the fuel level is low.
8. Illuminated "Check Engine" Light: Low fuel pressure can trigger diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) related to lean fuel conditions or fuel delivery problems (e.g., P0171, P0174, P0300). Scanning for codes provides supporting evidence for fuel pump issues.

Why Did My 1996 Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump Fail? Top Causes

Understanding why fuel pumps fail helps with repair choices and prevention:

1. Normal Wear and Aging: This is the most common cause. The electric motor driving the pump, the pump impeller components, and the check valve all wear out over time. The ZJ generation is now approaching 30 years old, putting many original pumps far beyond their expected lifespan. Constant heat cycling within the fuel tank accelerates aging.
2. Contaminated Fuel / Running on Fumes: Dirt, rust, water, or debris in the fuel tank wears down the pump internals prematurely. Frequently driving with very low fuel levels (below 1/4 tank) is especially harmful. The pump relies on gasoline for cooling and lubrication. Running low starves it, causing overheating. Sucking in concentrated sludge or debris from the tank bottom also clogs filters.
3. Electrical Issues: Wiring harness problems near the pump module (corrosion at electrical connectors, chafed wires) or failure of the pump’s electrical connector itself can cut power. Faulty relay contacts in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) under the hood can cause intermittent failures. Voltage drops due to bad grounds or weak alternator output stress the pump motor.
4. Clogged Fuel Filter: While the 1996 ZJ has an in-line fuel filter, it’s often neglected during routine maintenance. A severely clogged filter forces the pump to work much harder to push fuel through, leading to overheating and premature failure.
5. Ethanol Fuel Effects: Modern E10 gasoline attracts moisture over time, potentially leading to internal corrosion within the pump module and degraded performance of rubber components within the assembly like seals or hoses.
6. Failed Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR): While separate from the pump itself, a defective FPR that doesn’t release excess pressure back to the tank forces the pump to work against excessive backpressure, accelerating wear (more common on MFI systems). The 1996 5.2L V8 uses multi-port fuel injection (MFI) with a separate FPR; the 4.0L uses sequential multi-port injection (SFI) with a return-less system whose regulator is often integrated into the fuel pump module.

Diagnosing Your 96 ZJ Fuel Pump Problem: Essential Tests Before Replacement

Never replace the fuel pump based on symptoms alone. Proper diagnosis is critical to avoid unnecessary expense and effort, as many other problems mimic fuel pump failure (bad ignition components, crankshaft position sensor, clogged injectors, etc.). Perform these key tests:

1. Listen for the Initial Pump Prime:
   • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start the engine).
   • Listen carefully near the rear of the vehicle (close to or under the fuel tank). You should hear a distinct humming or whirring sound for 2-3 seconds as the pump pressurizes the system. Silence indicates no power to the pump (electrical problem) or a failed pump.
   • Note: The pump prime might run for a very short duration; listen carefully. A helper might be useful. Repeat a few times if necessary.
2. Check Fuel Pressure (Most Critical Test):
   • Rent or purchase a fuel pressure test kit (loan-a-tool programs at major auto parts stores are excellent options). Ensure it includes the correct Schrader valve adapter (similar to a tire valve) for the test port on the Jeep’s fuel rail. The 4.0L rail typically has the port near the distributor; the 5.2L has it near the center of the intake manifold.
   • Locate Schrader Valve: Find the test port on the fuel rail – usually a small valve covered by a plastic cap, labeled "FPR" (Fuel Pressure Regulator) on the 5.2L, often near center/front on the 4.0L.
   • Relieve Pressure: Depress the valve core carefully (like a tire valve stem) with a small screwdriver wrapped in thick rags – fuel will spray out. Release pressure completely before connecting tester.
   • Connect Tester: Securely connect the test kit adapter to the Schrader valve. Follow kit instructions precisely. Use caution due to fuel spray risk.
   • Turn Key ON (No Start): Observe initial pressure reading. It should rise sharply to a specified value (consult manual/specs – roughly 45-55 psi is typical) and hold relatively steady for a short time after the pump stops priming. Note the pressure level reached.
   • Check Static Pressure Hold: Monitor the gauge for at least 5 minutes after the pump shuts off. Pressure should not drop more than about 5-10 psi within this time. A rapid drop signals a faulty check valve inside the pump assembly or potentially leaking injectors.
   • Check Running Pressure: Start the engine. Pressure should remain stable at the specified range at idle. Observe pressure during moderate RPM increases (briefly rev to 2000-2500 RPM). It should remain relatively steady. A significant drop under load confirms fuel delivery insufficiency – pump failing or clogged filter.
   • Note: Running pressure specs vary slightly:
     • 4.0L Engine (Return-less System): Idle pressure typically around 49 psi ± 5 psi. Should remain stable across RPM ranges.
     • 5.2L Engine (Return System): Idle pressure typically 45-55 psi. Pressure may increase slightly with vacuum hose removed from FPR. Should remain stable under RPM increase.
3. Inspect Basic Electricals:
   • Check Fuses: Locate the fuse box (PDC under hood, also fuse panel inside cabin). Identify the fuse for the fuel pump relay (consult owner’s manual/fuse box diagrams – often labeled "Fuel Pump" or "FP," likely 15A or 20A). Check its integrity visually and with a multimeter/continuity tester. Do not trust visual inspection alone – test it.
   • Listen for the Fuel Pump Relay Click: Turn the ignition key to ON. Have a helper listen near the fuse box under the hood. You should hear a distinct click from the fuel pump relay as it activates the pump for the 2-3 second prime. No click could mean a bad relay or a fault preventing the relay from being commanded on.
   • Test Relay: Swap the fuel pump relay with another identical relay in the PDC (like the horn or AC relay). Turn key to ON. If the pump now primes, the original relay is bad. If still no prime, the relay is either getting no control signal or there’s a problem downstream (wiring, pump).
   • CAUTION: Diagnosing live electrical circuits can be dangerous. Check power at the pump connector only if you are experienced with a multimeter.

Tools and Parts Needed for 1996 Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump Replacement

Essential Safety Equipment:

• Fire Extinguisher (Chemical Class B or ABC): Keep it immediately accessible near your workspace. Fuel vapors are highly flammable.
• Safety Glasses: Protect eyes from falling debris and fuel splash.
• Chemical-Resistant Gloves: Protect skin from gasoline irritation and cleaning solvents like brake cleaner.
• Well-Ventilated Area: Never work in an enclosed garage without strong ventilation. Open doors fully. Consider an exhaust fan.
• No Open Flames/Sparks: Absolutely no smoking, pilot lights, welding, or tools that can create sparks anywhere near the work area. Disconnect battery ground cable.

Required Tools:

• Floor Jack: Minimum 2-ton rating.
• Quality Jack Stands (2 pair, 3-ton rating recommended): Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Ensure stands are firmly placed on solid concrete/asphalt, not dirt or gravel. Position them under the designated frame rail jacking points for the ZJ.
• Wheel Chocks: Place firmly behind the front tires when rear wheels are on the ground.
• Socket Sets: 1/2" drive ratchet, extensions (6" and 12-18"), swivel (universal joints), with deep and standard sockets sizes: 13mm, 15mm, 18mm are common. Include 1/4" drive for smaller fasteners. Impact sockets are beneficial for tough bolts.
• Open-End/Box-End Wrenches: Sizes to match sockets needed.
• Fuel Line Disconnect Tools: Mandatory plastic set designed specifically for 5/16" and 3/8" quick-connect fuel lines. Standard styles (Ford/GM) usually work for Jeep. Choose quality tools to prevent breaking brittle connectors. DO NOT use screwdrivers.
• Torx Bit Set: T20 security Torx bit is typically needed for the fuel pump module lock ring (standard Torx bits won't fit security pins). A torx driver or socket set including security Torx bits is essential. Check your assembly to confirm.
• Rubber Mallet or Dead Blow Hammer: For gently persuading stuck components. Do not strike metal directly on metal – use wood block.
• Flathead Screwdrivers (various sizes) & Small Pry Tools: For electrical connectors, hose retainers, and gentle prying. Avoid damaging plastic clips.
• Brake Cleaner: Several cans to clean away dirt and spilled fuel. Use only approved chlorinated or non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Avoid spraying wiring harnesses excessively.
• Shop Towels & Oil Dry/Cat Litter: For absorbing spills quickly.
• Wire Brush: For cleaning minor corrosion on ground connections or fasteners.
• Scraper/Putty Knife: To gently break gasket sealant.
• Flashlight/Work Light: Essential for seeing clearly under the vehicle and inside the tank cavity.
• (Optional but Highly Recommended): Transmission Jack or strong helper. The fuel tank is awkward and heavy, especially when partially full.

Required Parts & Supplies:

1. Fuel Pump Module Assembly: This is the critical component. Strongly recommended OEM or Premium Aftermarket (Bosch, Delphi, Denso, ACDelco Professional). The assembly typically includes:
   • Fuel Pump
   • Fuel Level Sending Unit (Float Arm)
   • Plastic Strainer "Sock"
   • Reservoir (turbine/tub system specific to the application)
   • Sealing Ring
   • Complete Lock Ring
2. New Fuel Tank Strap Hardware: The tank retaining straps are notorious for severely rusted bolts. Expect them to break. Obtain new J-bolts (or complete strap kits) beforehand. Replace the nuts and retaining washers too.
3. Fuel Pump Module Lock Ring: Often sold separately and included in quality kits. Highly advised to replace this critical sealing component.
4. Compatible Fuel Resistant Sealing Ring (O-ring): The large rubber ring that seals between the module and the tank flange. Critical for preventing leaks. Included in pump kits. Ensure it’s chemically compatible with modern fuel.
5. Replacement Plastic Fasteners (Body Shims): If removing the spare tire carrier, its plastic spacers often break. Get replacements.
6. Small Amount of Fuel-Resistant Grease (Pump Approved): Only grease explicitly rated safe for gasoline contact (like white lithium grease specifically for fuel systems). Apply a tiny smear to the new tank sealing ring ONLY to aid installation and future removal. Do NOT get grease in the fuel line connections or inside the tank/motor.
7. 1/4 to 1/2 Tank of Fresh Gasoline: To refill after reassembly. Avoid filling with old gas.

Step-by-Step Guide: 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump Replacement

WARNING: Fuel and fuel vapors are highly flammable and explosive. Work in a well-ventilated area away from sparks, flames, heat, or any ignition source. Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves. Have a Class B fire extinguisher immediately available. Relieve fuel system pressure before disconnecting lines. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

1. Preparation & Relieve System Pressure:

• Park vehicle on level, solid ground. Apply parking brake firmly. Place chocks securely behind the front wheels.
• Disconnect Negative Battery Terminal: Isolate the negative battery terminal. This is mandatory to prevent sparks near fuel vapors and de-power the pump circuit.
• Relieve Fuel Pressure (Critical!): Locate the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Cover the valve with a thick rag to absorb spray. Carefully depress the valve core using a screwdriver or dedicated valve tool. Residual pressurized fuel will spray out – be prepared. Release pressure until only hissing remains. Replace valve cap loosely. Have shop towels ready underneath.
• Run Tank Low (Optional but Recommended): Drive until the fuel gauge reads below 1/4 tank. Less fuel weight makes tank removal safer and easier. Avoid draining completely as the sock screen needs submersion for priming.

2. Access the Fuel Tank:

• Remove Spare Tire (If Equipped): Lower the spare tire carrier to the ground using provided tools. Remove tire. The carrier assembly itself may need removal (requiring removal of several bolts on each side frame rail) for better tank access. Note and carefully save its plastic shim/spacer blocks.
• Raise & Support Vehicle: Jack up the rear of the vehicle using a recommended jack point on the frame rail (consult factory jacking points – typically behind rear wheel ahead of axle area). Support both sides of the rear frame rails securely on jack stands. Vehicle must be rock-solid stable. Place jack stands on substantial load-bearing frame sections. Double-check stability.
• Disconnect Charcoal Canister Lines: Locate the charcoal canister near the spare tire area. Carefully mark and disconnect any vapor/vent hoses connected to the top of the fuel tank. Depress locking tabs and gently pull connectors.
• Locate Fuel Tank Straps: Find the two steel straps encircling the front and rear of the fuel tank. They are attached to the frame with J-bolts and nuts.
• Prepare for Catch Containers: Place sturdy containers (oil drain pans work well) and absorbent materials directly under the area between the tank straps and the fuel filler/sender area. Expect drips and possibly larger spills when disconnecting lines.
• Disconnect Fuel Fill Neck Hose: Loosen the large clamp securing the filler neck tube to the tank inlet nozzle. Carefully twist and pull the hose off the nozzle. Seal the neck opening temporarily with a clean rag to prevent debris entry.
• Disconnect Electrical Connector: Unplug the wiring harness connector for the fuel pump module. Press the locking tab firmly and pull the halves apart. Inspect the connector shell for damage and contacts for corrosion (clean if needed).
• Disconnect Fuel Lines (Requires Special Tools):
  • Identify the fuel feed (high pressure to engine) and return (low pressure back to tank) lines. They connect near the module housing top.
  • For standard quick-connect fittings: Select the correct plastic disconnect tool size (generally 3/8" for feed, 5/16" for return). Push the tool firmly into the space between the fuel line and the connector housing around the module nipple. This disengages the internal plastic lock fingers.
  • While holding the tool fully inserted, pull the fuel line straight off the nipple. Use your other hand to stabilize the module housing. Do NOT pull by the line itself. Apply steady pressure.
  • Fuel will leak out – capture it as much as possible. Immediately plug the disconnected lines and the tank nipples with approved fuel line caps or clean plastic plugs/bolts to minimize vapor release and prevent tank fuel siphoning out.
  • Be patient; older plastic connectors are very brittle and prone to cracking.

3. Remove Fuel Tank:

• Support the Tank: Place the transmission jack or sturdy support platform under the center bottom of the tank. Apply light pressure to support the weight. A hydraulic transmission jack is safest. Otherwise, enlist a strong helper.
• Remove Tank Strap Nuts: Using sockets/wrenches (commonly 15mm or 18mm), loosen and remove the nuts from the J-bolts holding each strap. Spray penetrating oil (like PB Blaster or Kroil) generously the night before and let soak. Expect resistance – severe rust is common; bolts often twist off or break. Apply penetrating oil and tap the fastener heads firmly. If they break, proceed to Step 5 with the straps still attached and plan replacement.
• Lower the Tanks:
  • Once the nuts are off the J-bolts, carefully slide the straps off the J-bolt hooks. They may drop down. Note orientation.
  • Slowly lower the transmission jack/support, watching carefully as the tank settles. You need enough clearance to access the pump module cover – usually 6-12 inches below the floor pan.
  • Stop lowering once you have good access. Stabilize the tank so it cannot rock or tip and spill fuel.

4. Replace the Fuel Pump Module:

• Protect from Contamination: Thoroughly clean the area around the module cover on the tank top using brake cleaner and rags before opening. Prevent dirt, dust, or rust particles from falling into the tank. Cover the exposed tank opening with a CLEAN lint-free rag when the module is removed, replacing it immediately if interrupted.
• Remove Lock Ring: Locate the large aluminum or plastic lock ring securing the module to the tank. Use the correct Security Torx Bit (commonly T20 or T25 - check yours!) inserted into the ring holes. Place it securely in a ratchet/socket. Tap the ring sharply with a mallet/hammer in the "Loosen" direction (marked on the ring). Counterhold the ring housing with your free hand. Work gradually around the ring. It can require significant force due to corrosion/varnish. Do NOT use excessive force that could crack the tank flange.
• Remove Module: With the lock ring removed, gently lift the entire module assembly straight up out of the tank. Be mindful of the fuel level sender float arm – angle it carefully through the tank opening. Lift slowly to avoid splashing fuel. Place it aside on absorbent pads or shop towels. Catch any dripping fuel. Important: Note the orientation of the plastic pump module relative to the tank before removal (photos help for float arm position).
• Drain Remaining Fuel (Optional): If significant fuel remains in the tank and it’s practical, carefully lower the tank completely and drain the fuel into approved containers through the sender hole using a clean transfer pump. Work safely. Properly dispose of old fuel. This step reduces fuel weight and spill risk during reassembly but adds time/complexity.
• Transfer Parts/Prepare New Module:
  • Remove the float arm/sending unit assembly from the OLD module (usually one screw/retainer). Transfer it CAREFULLY to the NEW module housing. Ensure the float arm position matches your earlier notes/photos.
  • (Optional but Recommended): Replace the plastic fuel strainer "sock" filter on the pump inlet, even if a new one comes pre-installed on your new module. It’s cheap insurance. Use the clip/retainer style specific to your new module/pump.
  • Carefully inspect the new locking ring and large sealing O-ring. Verify they are undamaged. Discard the old lock ring and O-ring.
  • Prepare O-ring: Apply an extremely thin coat of fuel system approved lubricant only to the inner and outer faces of the NEW O-ring seal. Avoid touching the sealing surfaces with your fingers to prevent oil transfer. Do NOT lubricate the tank groove or module flange.
  • Position the new O-ring seal correctly in its groove on the tank neck. Ensure it sits evenly without twists. Spray the O-ring surface lightly with a mist of clean brake cleaner to help it slide during installation.

5. Install New Module & Reassemble Tank:

• Insert New Module: Keeping it level, carefully lower the NEW module assembly straight down into the tank. Ensure the float arm enters first in the correct orientation. Avoid kinking the arm. The module flange should seat firmly onto the O-ring. Do NOT let the strainer sock catch on the tank edge. Use gentle twisting if needed to align.
• Install New Lock Ring: Place the NEW lock ring onto the module flange tabs, aligning any arrows or marks to the "Start" or "Lock" position. Rotate the ring clockwise (as per its markings) by hand until finger-tight. Use the security Torx bit and hammer/ratchet to tap the lock ring clockwise several degrees further past hand-tight. It should become snug against the module flange. Do NOT overtighten. Excessive force can crack the tank neck or break the plastic ring/tabs. A moderate tap is sufficient; you should not deform the ring severely. Confirm the ring is seated evenly.
• Reconnect Electrical & Fuel Lines: Ensure wiring is not pinched. Reconnect the electrical connector securely – hear/feel it click. Push the fuel lines (feed & return) straight onto their respective nipples on the new module until a distinct "click" is heard/feel, signifying the internal locking fingers engage. Tug firmly on each line to verify. Do NOT connect lines to the wrong ports – feed is usually larger. Reconnect the vapor/vent lines to the top of the tank if disconnected earlier.
• Reinstall Fuel Fill Neck: Slide the hose onto the filler neck nozzle ensuring it’s fully seated. Tighten the clamp securely.
• Raise Tank & Install Straps/Hardware:
  • Carefully raise the transmission jack/support, lifting the tank back into its original position against the vehicle floor pan. Ensure the tank is correctly positioned under the straps – its locating nubs seat into vehicle body slots.
  • Position the front tank strap first, reconnecting it to its J-bolt hooks. Repeat with the rear strap. Make sure they are correctly oriented.
  • Replace Hardware: Install brand new J-bolts, nuts, and retaining washers as a set per strap unless originals were pristine (unlikely). Apply anti-seize compound to the threads of the new bolts to prevent future seizing. Hand-tighten nuts initially.
  • Tighten Straps: Alternate tightening the strap nuts evenly until both front and rear straps are snug against the tank. Final torque specification is typically 20-25 ft-lbs (27-34 Nm) for each strap nut (consult service manual if possible). Over-tightening can distort and crack the plastic tank. Ensure both straps carry tension equally and the tank feels stable.
• Reinstall Spare Tire & Carrier: Reattach any vent/charcoal canister lines. Remount spare tire carrier and spare tire, replacing any broken plastic spacers/shims with new ones.

6. Final Steps & Post-Replacement Verification:

• Reconnect Battery: Attach the negative battery cable securely.
• Pressurize & Check for Leaks: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start) and wait 2-3 seconds. Listen for the fuel pump prime. Leave key on for 10 seconds. Get under the vehicle immediately and carefully inspect ALL connection points: Fuel lines at the module, filler neck, vent lines, and the large O-ring seal around the module flange. Use a mirror and light. Look for any dripping fuel. Feel for wetness. Sniff for strong fuel odor near the tank. Any leak requires immediate shutdown (disconnect battery), depressurization, and repair before proceeding. If leaks are present, DO NOT attempt to start the engine. Re-check all connections and sealing ring seating.
• Start Engine: If no leaks are found after the prime cycle, attempt to start the engine. It may crank slightly longer than normal as air purges from the system. Observe smooth idle. Recheck once more underneath for leaks while engine is running. Pay attention to possible leaks that only appear under system pressure.
• Road Test: Drive the vehicle cautiously at first, checking for correct engine operation (power, acceleration, no hesitation/stalling). Test under load (uphill acceleration). Recheck for leaks after the engine is hot and the drive cycle is complete.
• Refuel: Add several gallons of fresh gasoline to ensure the pump intake sock is submerged.
• Dispose of Old Fuel/Part: Take the old fuel pump and contaminated fuel to an approved hazardous waste disposal facility. Do not pour gasoline down drains or into the environment.

Choosing the Best Replacement Fuel Pump for Your 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee

The market is flooded with options. Price correlates strongly with durability and longevity.

1. OEM (MOPAR): The factory standard. Offers guaranteed fit and design quality matching the original. Expect longevity comparable to the original part. Very expensive ($350+).
2. Premium Aftermarket: Top Recommendation:
   • Bosch: Excellent reputation for fuel pumps. High-quality motors and construction. Often the OE supplier. Highly reliable, excellent fitment. Expect price range $180-$250.
   • Delphi: Leading OE supplier. Quality nearly equal to Bosch/Mopar. Very good reliability record. Fitment is excellent. Price often slightly less than Bosch ($150-$220).
   • Denso: High-quality Japanese manufacturer. Known for fuel system components. Solid performer and longevity. Good fitment ($150-$220).
   • ACDelco Professional (Gold): GM parts supplier OE-level part. Well-regarded for fit and reliability. Avoid cheaper ACDelco "Silver". ($140-$200).
3. Standard Aftermarket: Moderate cost ($120-$160). Brands like Spectra Premium, Carter (non-OEM), or store brands (AutoZone Duralast, O'Reilly's MasterPro, Advance Auto Parts MasterCraft). Quality is hit-or-miss. Fitment can be good, but components (like float arms or connectors) may differ slightly. Lifespan less predictable – some last years, some fail prematurely. Consider only if budget is severely constrained.
4. Budget/Economy: Very cheap (<$80). Sold online or deep discount stores. Strongly Discouraged. Materials, tolerances, and quality control are poor. Prone to very rapid failure, poor fitment, noisy operation, or inaccurate fuel gauge reading. False economy.

Critical: Get a complete module assembly designed specifically for the 1996 Grand Cherokee ZJ with the correct engine size (4.0L I6 or 5.2L V8).

Maintaining Your New Fuel Pump: Maximizing Its Lifespan

Protect your investment with these practices:

1. Avoid Running on Fumes: Crucial Habit. Always refill the tank when it reaches 1/4 full. Keeping the pump submerged in fuel provides essential cooling. Running very low causes overheating and premature wear. The strainer sock also sucks up concentrated sludge/sediment.
2. Replace Fuel Filter Regularly: The 1996 ZJ has an in-line external fuel filter. Replace it according to the severe service schedule – every 30,000 miles. Clogging forces the pump to work harder. Neglect is a major contributor to pump failures.
3. Use Quality Fuel: Fill up at reputable, high-turnover gas stations to minimize water contamination risk. While E10 is acceptable, fuel with higher ethanol blends (like E15/E85) is NOT suitable and can damage fuel system components. Avoid "bargain" fuels from unknown or low-volume stations.
4. Clean Electrical Connections: Occasionally inspect and clean (with contact cleaner and brush) the fuel pump electrical connector contacts to prevent voltage drop caused by corrosion.
5. Address Tank Rust/Corrosion: If your old fuel pump failed due to rust debris from the tank, flushing the tank or replacing it simultaneously (if severely rusted) protects the new pump. Rust flakes destroy pumps quickly.
6. Listen for Changes: Be familiar with the normal sound of the new pump. Any significant increase in noise (whine, hum, buzzing) should be investigated promptly.

Replacing the fuel pump in your trusty 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee is a significant repair requiring patience, the correct tools, and careful attention to safety and details. While challenging for many DIY mechanics due to the tank removal, it’s within reach for those with strong mechanical aptitude. Following this guide meticulously, using quality parts (Bosch, Delphi, Denso), adhering to safety protocols, and confirming repairs with pressure testing will restore your Grand Cherokee’s power, drivability, and reliability for years and many miles to come.