Changing Fuel Pump on 1998 Chevy Silverado: The Ultimate Step-by-Step DIY Guide

Replacing the fuel pump on your 1998 Chevy Silverado is a significant but achievable DIY task, demanding careful preparation, proper safety protocols, and a full day's work (6-12 hours). The essential steps involve depressurizing the fuel system, disconnecting the battery, safely lowering the fuel tank to access the pump module, installing a quality replacement unit ensuring perfect seals, and meticulously reassembling everything before thorough testing.

This detailed guide covers everything you need to know to successfully change the fuel pump on your 1998 Chevy Silverado, saving significant shop labor costs. While the job requires patience, mechanical aptitude, and specific tools, methodical execution following these steps leads to reliable results.

Why Fuel Pumps Fail in 1998 Chevy Silverados

A failed fuel pump is among the most common reasons a 1998 Silverado won't start or experiences sudden engine stalling followed by a refusal to restart. Symptoms include sputtering at highway speeds, noticeable loss of power under load, whining or buzzing sounds originating near the fuel tank, and ultimately, the engine failing to crank at all. While the original pump often lasts well beyond 100,000 miles, age, constant exposure to fuel, sediment buildup, and running the tank chronically low accelerate wear. When failure occurs, replacing the entire pump and sending unit assembly within the fuel tank is the definitive repair.

Essential Tools & Parts for the Job (1998 Silverado Specific)

Gathering the correct tools and parts before starting prevents frustrating mid-job interruptions. You cannot improvise effectively for tank drops.

  • Required Parts:
    • New Fuel Pump Module Assembly: Critical to get one specific to the 1998 Silverado's engine size (Vortec 4.3L V6, 5.0L V8, or 5.7L V8) and fuel tank size (typically 26 gallons for standard bed). Choose reputable brands like AC Delco, Delphi, Bosch, or Airtex; avoid ultra-cheap no-name pumps. Verify it includes the lock ring, fuel strainer (sock filter), and tank seal/gasket.
    • Replacement Fuel Filter: Located under the driver's side frame rail. Replace this whenever the pump is serviced.
    • GM Thread-Locker (GM P/N 12345382 or equivalent): Required for the tank strap bolts to prevent them vibrating loose.
    • Shop Towels & Brake Cleaner: For cleaning spillage and tank mating surfaces.
  • Safety Equipment:
    • Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes constantly.
    • Chemical-Resistant Gloves (Nitrile): Essential skin protection against gasoline.
    • Fire Extinguisher (Class B): Keep this readily accessible throughout the job.
    • Adequate Ventilation: Work outdoors or in a very well-ventilated garage. NO ignition sources nearby (cigarettes, pilot lights, sparks).
  • Essential Tools:
    • Floor Jack & Multiple Sturdy Jack Stands: Minimum rated for the truck's weight (4-ton+). You need significant lift and rock-solid support to lower the tank safely. DO NOT RELY SOLELY ON A JACK.
    • Torque Wrench (Inch-Pounds & Foot-Pounds Capability): Crucial for critical fasteners (lock ring, tank straps).
    • Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set: Specifically the sizes for the 1998 Silverado's plastic fuel lines at the pump module and engine bay filter. GM uses unique connectors.
    • Large Adjustable Wrenches or Pipe Wrenches: For fighting stubborn tank straps and filler neck connections.
    • Breaker Bar & Deep Sockets (13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 20mm common): Tank straps, mounting hardware. Expect rust.
    • Fuel Lock Ring Tool: Available at parts stores. The factory plastic one often breaks; the metal aftermarket tool works far better.
    • Flathead Screwdrivers (various sizes): For prying hose clamps and carefully disconnecting wiring.
    • Wire Brushes & Penetrating Oil (e.g., PB Blaster): For cleaning bolt threads days ahead and during the job.
    • Drain Pan (Minimum 10-Gallon Capacity): To capture spilled fuel when disconnecting lines and lowering the tank.
    • Siphon Pump or Transfer Pump: To safely empty the fuel tank below 1/4 tank before starting work. Tanks are heavy even at this level. Never drain via the pump opening.
    • Large Piece of Plywood or Tank Support: Placing this on the floor jack provides a stable cradle for the tank when lowering/raising.
    • Flashlight or Headlamp: Essential visibility under the truck.

Critical Safety Precautions You Cannot Ignore

Gasoline fumes are highly explosive. Safety procedures are non-negotiable.

  1. Work Outside or Maximum Ventilation: Indoor garage doors must be fully open. Fans help circulate air away. NO exceptions.
  2. Zero Ignition Sources: Extinguish cigarettes. Disconnect the battery NEGATIVE terminal first before any work. Keep sparks from tools away. Turn off electrical devices (radios, chargers) in the work area. Know where pilot lights are (water heater, furnace) and avoid.
  3. Skin & Eye Protection: Chemical gloves and safety glasses are mandatory throughout the entire process. Gasoline is a carcinogen.
  4. Fire Extinguisher Ready: Have a working Class B fire extinguisher within immediate reach. Know how to use it.
  5. Depressurize the System FIRST: Disconnecting fuel lines under pressure creates dangerous spray. Follow the detailed depressurization step below.
  6. Empty the Tank: Get fuel level below 1/4 tank. An almost-empty tank minimizes spill risk and is vastly easier to handle. Use a transfer pump/siphon before beginning disassembly.
  7. Secure the Vehicle: Use the parking brake firmly AND chock the front wheels. Never crawl under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Place jack stands rated for the truck's weight on solid points on the frame behind the cab (rear axle may work on some configurations, consult your manual). Double-check stability.
  8. Proper Tank Support: When lowering the tank, use your floor jack with a large wood board as a cradle to control the descent gently and safely.
  9. Dispose of Fuel Properly: Store siphoned gasoline ONLY in approved gasoline containers. Take old fuel to an authorized disposal/recycling center – do not pour down drains or onto the ground. This is illegal and dangerous.

Detailed Step-by-Step Removal Process

Do not rush. Methodical disassembly prevents broken parts and injuries.

  1. Prepare the Vehicle:
    • Drive the truck until the fuel gauge reads BELOW 1/4 tank. Park on a perfectly level, solid surface.
    • Siphon/transfer any remaining fuel above the 1/4 tank level into approved containers using a proper pump. The tank must be below 1/4 full.
    • Disconnect the NEGATIVE battery terminal. Isolate the cable.
    • Place wheel chocks securely against the front tires.
    • Engage the parking brake firmly.
    • Read the entire procedure once before starting.
  2. Depressurize the Fuel System:
    • Locate the Schrader valve test port on the fuel rail in the engine bay. It looks like a tire valve stem, often near the center of the intake manifold on V8s. Cap might be labeled "FUEL".
    • Cover the valve with a thick shop towel to catch spray. Use a screwdriver or specialized fuel pressure tool to briefly press the valve core. Gasoline under pressure will spray – stand clear and avoid eyes.
    • Wait at least 60 minutes after depressurizing to allow residual pressure to dissipate throughout the lines before proceeding.
  3. Disconnect Accessories & Lines:
    • Raise the vehicle securely using the floor jack at the designated frame jacking points behind the cab. Place heavy-duty jack stands securely under the frame rails. Slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands. Shake the truck violently to confirm stability. Leave the jack supporting under the tank location.
    • Disconnect Filler Neck:
      • Crawl under the driver's side rear of the truck. Locate the rubber filler neck hose connecting the tank to the filler pipe running to the gas cap. This is usually behind the rear axle, near the front face of the tank.
      • Use large pliers or a screwdriver to loosen the large band clamp securing the hose to the tank outlet.
      • Carefully twist and pull the hose off the tank nipple. Expect some residual fuel spill – have your drain pan underneath. Set the filler pipe side aside.
    • Disconnect Vent Line(s): Find the smaller plastic vapor return/vent line(s) running near the filler neck. Note their routing. These may have spring lock connectors or simple push-fit connectors. Carefully release tabs and disconnect them. Plug the ends temporarily to prevent dirt entry.
    • Disconnect Fuel Delivery & Return Lines:
      • Identify the larger plastic fuel lines (typically one supply and one return) running along the top edge of the tank or near the pump location. They lead to the pump module connector.
      • Use the correct size fuel line disconnect tool for your 1998 Silverado. Push the tool firmly into the connector alongside the line to release the internal retaining barbs. While holding the tool inserted, pull the line off the pump module fitting. Be prepared for a small amount of fuel to drip.
      • Plug the open lines to prevent contamination and leakage. Most connector kits include plugs; use approved fuel line plugs otherwise.
    • Disconnect Electrical Connector:
      • Find the main electrical wiring harness connector going to the pump module. It will be bundled with the fuel lines near the top of the tank.
      • Locate the locking tab (may be a slide lock or squeeze lock). Carefully press or slide it to the unlock position.
      • Squeeze any additional retaining clips and firmly pull the connector apart. Inspect terminals for corrosion. Cover the harness side connector loosely with a bag to keep it clean.
  4. Support the Fuel Tank:
    • Position your floor jack with a large piece of plywood centered under the middle of the fuel tank. Apply slight upward pressure to take the weight off the tank straps. The jack must support the tank from this point forward.
  5. Remove Fuel Tank Strap Bolts:
    • Locate the two metal bands (tank straps) encircling the tank. One is near the front, one near the rear. Each strap is secured at one end by a bolt running through a bracket welded to the frame.
    • Spray the bolts, nuts, and bracket threads copiously with penetrating oil. Allow time to soak if rusty. Wipe away grit.
    • Use a breaker bar and the correct deep socket (often 15mm or 18mm) on the bolt head or nut. The factory often uses thread-locker, making them extremely tight. Be prepared for significant force.
    • Carefully break each bolt/nut free without rounding it. Slowly unscrew each one completely. The straps will hang loose.
    • Caution: As you remove the rear strap bolt last, be ready to guide the straps, as they can fall suddenly. Keep hands clear.
  6. Lower the Fuel Tank:
    • Double-check that all lines, hoses, and the electrical connector are disconnected and clear.
    • Ensure the filler neck hose is free from the tank.
    • Keeping the floor jack centered and stable, slowly lower the jack handle. Descend only a few inches at a time.
    • Pause frequently to visually confirm nothing is still attached (wiring harness, EVAP lines) and that the tank is balanced.
    • Continue lowering until the tank is resting securely on the jack platform or gently touches the ground, providing access to the top surface of the pump module. Maintain jack support.
  7. Remove the Fuel Pump Lock Ring:
    • Clean the area around the fuel pump module access plate on top of the tank thoroughly with brake cleaner and shop towels. Remove all dirt and debris to prevent it falling into the tank.
    • Locate the large plastic or metal ring securing the pump module to the tank. This is the lock ring.
    • Using the Fuel Lock Ring Tool: Insert the tool feet into the corresponding slots on the ring. Strike the tool firmly in a counter-clockwise direction (Left = Loose) using a hammer. You may need multiple strikes around the circumference. It will suddenly break free and turn easily.
    • Alternative (Not Recommended): If you lack the tool, extreme caution is needed. Carefully tap a flat chisel or large screwdriver against a ring notch in a counter-clockwise direction. This risks cracking the ring or tank flange. Replace the lock ring if damaged.
    • Once loosened, unscrew the lock ring by hand until it detaches from the tank threads. Set it aside.
  8. Remove the Old Fuel Pump Module:
    • Lift the entire pump module assembly straight up and out of the tank. It includes the pump, fuel level sender (float arm), reservoir, and electrical connector. Be mindful of the float arm orientation – note its position relative to the tank before lifting.
    • Watch for the rubber O-ring seal between the module flange and the tank opening. It will likely stay stuck in either place. Carefully remove it and discard – do not reuse the old seal.
    • Place the old pump assembly aside in the drain pan to catch residual fuel drips.

Fuel Tank & Component Inspection & Cleaning

With the tank accessible and pump removed, now is the ideal time for inspection and cleaning, crucial for preventing premature new pump failure.

  1. Inspect the Fuel Tank Interior:
    • Visually inspect the inside of the tank via the pump opening using a bright light. Look for:
      • Rust: Surface discoloration is common. Heavy flaking rust indicates severe contamination and likely means the tank should be professionally cleaned or replaced.
      • Scale/Debris: Accumulated sediment, scale, or foreign material at the bottom. This clogs the pump strainer.
      • Water Contamination: Separation or cloudiness in residual fuel. Water damages pumps.
  2. Draining & Cleaning the Tank (If Needed):
    • Minimal Debris: Carefully siphon out the last traces of fuel/debris from the tank bottom using a small hose attached to a hand pump or shop vacuum (only if rated for flammable liquids & explosion-proof motor). Extreme caution required.
    • Moderate Debris: Use a dedicated "tank cleaning wand" attachment on an air hose or vacuum to gently agitate and extract debris. Avoid dislodging rust scale aggressively.
    • Significant Debris or Rust Flakes: For severe cases, the safest approach is removing the tank entirely through the side by detaching all remaining lines/hoses (including vent lines to charcoal canister near radiator) and the tank retaining straps completely. Take it to a professional radiator shop for steam cleaning and sealing. This is highly recommended if you see flakes or large debris. Installing a new pump into a dirty tank guarantees a short lifespan.
  3. Inspect Tank Opening and Flange:
    • Clean the flat mating surface on the tank around the pump opening meticulously using brake cleaner and scouring pads or fine steel wool. Remove ALL old sealant residue and grime. This surface must be perfectly clean for the new seal to work.
    • Inspect the threaded ring groove for cracks or damage. Repair is difficult; severe damage necessitates tank replacement.
  4. Inspect Old Pump Assembly (Optional but Informative):
    • Examine the strainer sock: Heavy clogging confirms tank contamination.
    • Inspect the electrical connector pins for melting signs or corrosion.
    • Check the pump housing for cracks. These clues explain the failure cause.

Preparing & Installing the New Fuel Pump Module

Precision here prevents leaks and ensures reliability.

  1. Confirm New Pump Compatibility: Double-check the new pump module matches your truck's year (1998), engine size, and cab/bed configuration (affects tank size). Verify the included parts: lock ring, new strainer sock, and the most crucial component – the new rubber seal/gasket/O-ring.
  2. Transfer Components (If Required): Some modules require transferring your original fuel level sender to the new module assembly. Compare the old and new modules carefully. If necessary, carefully remove the sender float arm from the old unit and attach it identically to the new one. Note the precise position and orientation. Handle the float mechanism gently; do not bend the arm.
  3. Install New Strainer Sock: Attach the new filter "sock" to the inlet port on the bottom of the pump module. It will either push on and click, or require twisting clockwise until locked. Follow the kit instructions.
  4. Prepare the New Seal & Tank Surface:
    • Clean the tank flange mating surface one final time with brake cleaner and a lint-free cloth. It must be perfectly clean and dry.
    • Do NOT lubricate the new rubber seal/O-ring. Gasoline causes lubricants to swell and fail. It installs dry.
    • Place the new seal gently into the groove on the tank flange. Ensure it sits flat and isn't twisted or kinked anywhere. This step is critical for preventing leaks. If it doesn't sit perfectly, remove and reseat it.
  5. Install New Pump Module into Tank:
    • Carefully guide the new pump module assembly into the tank opening. Pay close attention to the orientation – the electrical connector must align with the wiring harness, and the fuel lines must point towards their corresponding connectors. The float arm should sweep freely without catching on baffles. Use the position of the old unit as your guide.
    • Lower the assembly until the metal flange rests squarely and evenly on top of the tank's opening rim and rubber seal. Ensure the rubber seal remains perfectly seated in its groove around the entire circumference.
  6. Hand-Tighten Lock Ring:
    • Place the new (or cleaned original if undamaged) lock ring onto the exposed pump module threads. Start it by hand, turning clockwise (Right = Tight). Screw it down finger-tight until it makes firm contact with the tank flange and module assembly. Ensure it's engaged correctly on the threads. It should NOT require hammering at this stage.
  7. Torque Fuel Pump Lock Ring:
    • Crucial Step: Install the lock ring tool onto the ring. Using a hammer, strike the tool firmly in a clockwise direction. Aim for 3-4 solid strikes equally spaced around the ring. Do NOT overstrike.
    • Final Tightening by Tool: Some metal ring tools have a tightening bar. Insert it into the tool and use it to apply final clockwise torque until the ring is fully seated and tight. Ensure the lock ring tool feet are fully engaged in the ring slots during strikes.
    • Torque: Refer to a service manual for exact torque (if possible). The goal is firmly seated – striking around the circumference with the installation tool usually achieves this sufficiently without needing a torque wrench directly on the ring itself. Avoid excessive force that cracks the ring or tank.
    • Visually inspect that the module flange is uniformly compressed against the seal and the ring is level and fully seated all around.

Reinstalling the Fuel Tank

Reassembly is largely the reverse of removal, with critical torque specs and connector checks.

  1. Raise Tank Back Into Position:
    • Ensure all lines and harness connectors near the top of the tank are clear and won't be pinched.
    • Carefully raise the floor jack slowly and steadily, lifting the tank back up towards its mounting location.
    • Guide the straps loosely over the sides as the tank rises. Keep them from hooking.
    • Stop just below the final height.
  2. Position Tank Straps Temporarily:
    • Lift each tank strap into its approximate mounting position on the brackets welded to the frame. Hook the fixed end onto the bracket.
    • Insert the strap mounting bolt into the bracket and loosely thread the nut or bolt on by hand several turns. DO NOT TIGHTEN YET. Ensure the straps are correctly oriented.
  3. Reconnect All Lines & Wiring:
    • Electrical Connector: Wipe connectors clean. Align and reconnect the main harness plug to the pump module. Ensure the locking tab snaps securely into place. Tug test the connection.
    • Vent/Return Lines: Reconnect the smaller vapor/return lines using the correct connectors. Ensure locking tabs are fully engaged. Route lines correctly.
    • Fuel Delivery & Return Lines: Remove the temporary plugs. Apply a very tiny drop of clean engine oil to the O-rings inside the metal fittings on the pump module. This aids reassembly but won't harm. Push the quick-connect fuel lines firmly and squarely onto the fittings until you feel/hear them click audibly. Tug HARD on each line to confirm they are fully locked. Failure here causes dangerous leaks. Ensure hoses are routed away from sharp edges or exhaust heat.
    • Filler Neck Hose: Slide the large rubber hose back onto the tank nipple. Position it correctly. Install the clamp securely. Tighten the clamp screw firmly with a screwdriver or pliers.
  4. Final Raise & Secure Tank Straps:
    • Raise the jack slowly until the tank pushes up snugly against the frame mounts and the straps are carrying the weight. The tank should be completely lifted by the straps – the jack should now be supporting minimal to no load.
    • Torque Tank Strap Bolts:
      • Apply a small drop of the GM thread-locker (or high-strength red Loctite) to the threads of each strap bolt/nut.
      • Starting with the rear strap bolt, tighten it firmly. Torque to Specification: Typical range for GM strap bolts is 35-45 ft-lbs (foot-pounds). Consult a service manual for exact values. Use your torque wrench.
      • Tighten the front strap bolt to the same torque specification.
      • Ensure the straps are centered vertically and pulling the tank snugly against the frame pads without twisting. The tank should not shift laterally.
  5. Remove Jack Support: Carefully lower the floor jack fully away from the tank.

Post-Installation Procedures & Testing

Resist the urge to start immediately. Final checks and proper priming are vital.

  1. Reconnect Battery: Reconnect the battery NEGATIVE terminal securely. Tighten well.
  2. Leak Detection & Visual Inspection:
    • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (engine off) for 2 seconds. You should hear the new pump prime for about 1-2 seconds – a distinct whirring/humming from the rear. Turn the key "OFF". Wait 10 seconds.
    • Repeat step 2 at least three times: "ON" for 2 secs, listen for prime sound, "OFF" for 10 secs. This builds pressure gradually in the lines and helps identify leaks.
    • Crucial: While doing these prime cycles, get under the truck immediately after each key "ON" cycle. Visually inspect every connection point meticulously:
      • Top of pump module flange/seal area: Look for fuel weeping around the seal. Any leak here requires lock ring re-torqueing or seal replacement.
      • Fuel line quick connectors at pump module: Look for dripping. If leaking, disconnect (depressurize first!), inspect O-rings, reconnect ensuring the audible click, retest.
      • Filler neck hose connection: Dampness here indicates a loose clamp or misalignment.
      • Any other points of disconnection (fuel filter, vapor lines).
    • If ANY leak is detected during these prime cycles, STOP IMMEDIATELY. Do not crank the engine. Correct the source of the leak entirely before proceeding. Leaking gasoline can ignite.
  3. Start the Engine:
    • After multiple successful prime cycles with NO leaks observed, attempt to start the engine.
    • Crank the starter normally. The engine should fire up within 5-10 seconds of cranking. A longer cranking time is possible initially as air is purged but shouldn't be excessive.
    • Let the engine idle. Listen for any unusual noises from the pump (loud whining, screeching). Feel for any hesitation or stumbling. Inspect underneath again for leaks while idling.
  4. Road Test & Final Checks:
    • Take the truck for a short test drive. Vary the load – accelerate moderately, maintain highway speed, engine brake downhill. Ensure consistent power delivery without stumbles, hesitation, or power loss.
    • Check for leaks again upon return. Pay special attention to the fuel level sender area where the seal sits. Wipe clean with a rag, then observe.
    • Verify the fuel gauge operation over time. Fill the tank completely (check for overflow leakage at the filler neck connection during fill-up). Monitor gauge accuracy over the next few tanks.
  5. Observe Check Engine Light: If the "Service Engine Soon" light comes on, get the diagnostic trouble codes scanned. Common codes related to fuel pressure (P0171/P0174 lean condition, P0230 fuel pump circuit) may require further investigation (connector issue, blown fuse, relay problem).

Troubleshooting Common Post-Installation Issues

  • Engine Cranks But Won't Start:
    • Verify ignition "ON" prime sound occurs. If not: Check fuel pump relay, fuel pump fuse (25-30A in underhood box), and Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch reset (often near passenger kick panel). Verify proper connection at pump electrical connector. Double-check fuel line connectors are FULLY SEATED with audible click.
    • If prime is heard: Recheck fuel line connection at the engine bay filter (especially if replaced). Verify no kinked fuel lines. Possible residual air lock – cycle key "ON"/"OFF" (prime) 8-10 times before cranking again.
  • Loud Whining/Screeching Noise from Pump:
    • Common with aftermarket pumps but usually temporary during initial priming. Should lessen significantly within the first 50-100 miles. If persistent and very loud, suspect pump quality or debris ingestion. Revisit tank cleanliness. Excessive noise indicates potential early failure.
  • Fuel Leak at Top of Pump Module:
    • Major Concern. Immediately turn off engine. Depressurize system (Schrader valve, towel). Re-torque the lock ring using the tool. If leak persists, the only solution is to lower the tank again and replace the flange seal and inspect the locking ring for damage. Installation error or faulty seal are the causes. Do not ignore.
  • Fuel Gauge Inaccurate/Stuck:
    • Common if the float arm was bent during installation or the level sender connector wasn't fully seated. Requires lowering the tank to access and repair/replace the level sender or ensure correct float position. Alternatively, the replacement pump/sender unit may be faulty.
  • Engine Stumbles Under Load/Loss of Power:
    • Check fuel pressure using a gauge at the Schrader valve. Should be around 55-65 PSI key "ON" engine off (prime), maintain pressure within 5-10 PSI when running at idle, and hold pressure when engine shut off. If low: Restricted fuel filter (if replaced incorrectly), clogged strainer sock (debris in tank), failing pump, regulator issue (less common on '98 pump module integral systems).
    • Reconfirm all quick-connect fuel lines are fully latched (pull-test hard). Check ground connections.

Long-Term Maintenance Tips for Fuel System Health

  • Avoid Running the Tank Low: Consistently filling up before hitting 1/4 tank reduces the pump's cooling burden. Fuel acts as coolant for the electric pump motor.
  • Use Top Tier Gasoline: Quality fuels with adequate detergents help maintain system cleanliness.
  • Replace Fuel Filter Regularly: Adhere to the severe service schedule – often 15,000-20,000 miles, especially in dusty environments. It protects the pump.
  • Address Fuel Smells Promptly: Inspect for leaks around the tank top seal, filler neck, or lines if you ever smell raw gasoline.
  • Keep it Clean: Periodically rinse the top of the fuel tank near the module area when washing the undercarriage to minimize salt/corrosion buildup around access points.

Changing the fuel pump on your 1998 Chevy Silverado is a substantial undertaking, but with exhaustive preparation, unwavering focus on safety, meticulous execution of each step, and patience, the labor savings and pride of accomplishment are significant. Remember that preventative measures like avoiding a perpetually low tank extend the lifespan of your replacement pump. If at any point the job feels overwhelming or dangerous, do not hesitate to seek professional help – fuel systems demand respect. Following this comprehensive guide will get your reliable Silverado back on the road delivering power and performance.

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