July 2025

Conquer Your 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump Replacement: A Step-by-Step Guide (DIY Friendly!)

Replacing the fuel pump in your 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee is a significant, yet achievable, repair that solves common symptoms like engine stalling, hard starting, or a no-start condition, requiring you to safely lower the fuel tank, unbolt the fuel pump module assembly, replace the pump itself within its housing, and reassemble everything with fresh seals. While this job demands time, patience, and strict adherence to safety procedures due to working with gasoline, it's a rewarding project for DIYers comfortable with moderate mechanical work. This comprehensive guide provides the detailed steps, crucial safety information, and expert tips needed to successfully complete this repair yourself, saving substantial money on shop labor costs.

Understanding Why Replacement is Necessary

The fuel pump is the heart of your Jeep's fuel system. Located inside the fuel tank, its job is to pressurize gasoline and deliver it consistently to the engine. In the 1998 Grand Cherokee, the pump is mounted within a larger assembly called the fuel pump module or sender unit. This module also includes the fuel level sender (float arm), the fuel filter sock, electrical connections, and the seals critical to holding tank pressure and preventing leaks.
Over time, especially in vehicles now decades old, these pumps wear out. The electric motor brushes wear down, internal components fatigue, or corrosion affects electrical contacts. Failure often manifests suddenly – the pump works until it doesn't. Common signs include:

Engine Cranks But Won't Start: The most obvious sign. Listen for the brief whirring sound of the pump priming when you first turn the key to "ON" (before cranking). If you hear no priming sound, suspect the pump circuit or the pump itself.
Engine Sputters or Stalls, Especially Under Load: A weak pump struggles to maintain adequate fuel pressure when the engine demands more fuel (like accelerating uphill or merging).
Loss of Power While Driving: Similar to sputtering, a failing pump can't keep up, causing a noticeable power deficit.
Long Cranking Before Starting: The pump takes longer to build sufficient pressure.
Engine Dies When Hot ("Heat Soak"): Electrical resistance increases with heat. A failing pump motor might work cold but cut out when the engine compartment or tank gets hot, then start again after cooling.
Check Engine Light (CEL): While not always triggered solely by pump failure, associated codes related to fuel pressure (like P0087 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low) or fuel trim issues (P0171/P0174 - System Too Lean) can point towards fuel delivery problems potentially caused by a weak pump. Always retrieve codes as a starting point for diagnosis.

Essential Safety First: Non-Negotiable Precautions

Working with gasoline is inherently dangerous. Ignoring safety procedures can lead to severe fire, explosion, or personal injury. Adhere strictly to these rules:

Work Outdoors or in Very Well-Ventilated Area: Gasoline vapors are heavier than air and highly flammable. Never work in an enclosed garage without massive ventilation.
NO SMOKING or Open Flames: This includes pilot lights on water heaters or furnaces. Create a wide safety zone around your work area.
Disconnect the Battery: Always disconnect the negative (-) battery cable first and isolate it to prevent accidental sparks while working on electrical components near fuel.
Depressurize the Fuel System:
- Locate the fuel pump relay in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) under the hood (consult your owner's manual or a relay diagram). Often labeled "FP" or "Fuel Pump."
- Start the engine (if possible) and let it run until it stalls. If it won't start, crank it for several seconds after removing the relay. This consumes residual pressure in the lines.
- After the engine dies (or cranking), crank it again for 2-3 seconds to bleed any remaining pressure. Confirm system pressure is released before disconnecting any fuel lines! You can also locate the Schrader valve on the fuel rail (looks like a tire valve) and carefully depress the pin after depressurizing to release any residual pressure – cover it with a rag to catch spray.
Drain the Fuel Tank: This is CRITICAL for the 1998 Grand Cherokee. While you can try lowering it partially full, a full tank of gasoline weighs roughly 6 lbs per gallon. A 20-gallon tank even 1/4 full means lowering 30+ lbs of sloshing liquid. Draining is far safer and easier. See the dedicated section below.
Wear Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from fuel spray, debris, and falling grime.
Have Fire Extinguisher Ready: Keep a fully charged Class B (flammable liquids) fire extinguisher within arm's reach.

Gathering the Right Tools and Parts

Parts:

New Fuel Pump Assembly or Module: For the 1998 Grand Cherokee 4.0L I6 and 5.2L V8, it's almost universally recommended to replace the entire fuel pump module assembly (which includes the pump, hanger unit, fuel level sender, filter sock, reservoir, pressure regulator [V8], and seals) rather than just the pump motor. This addresses common wear points in the entire assembly, especially the brittle plastic components and aging seals found on 25+ year old vehicles. Pump-Only: While cheaper, replacing only the pump motor requires carefully disassembling the old module housing. This is risky – cracking the brittle old plastic housing is very common, leading to leaks. Only attempt this if cost is absolutely paramount and you understand the risk. Verify part number compatibility (AC Delco, Bosch, Delphi, Carter, Denso are reputable brands; Airtex has mixed reviews). Confirm fitment for 1998 ZJ with your specific engine size.
New Fuel Tank Lock Ring Seal: CRITICAL. This rubber seal gets crushed when the lock ring is tightened and forms the primary seal between the module and the tank. It must be replaced. Never reuse the old one! (Usually included with new modules).
New Filler Neck Hose Seal: (Recommended, especially if original). This large O-ring seals where the gas cap neck meets the tank.
Fresh Gasoline: To refill the tank after completion.
(Optional but Recommended) New Sending Unit Lock Ring: If the original lock ring is rusty or severely corroded.

Tools:

Floor Jack: At least 1.5-ton rated. Higher lift profile is better.
Jack Stands: ESSENTIAL. Minimum two, four is better (for raising entire rear end). NEVER WORK UNDER A VEHICLE SUPPORTED ONLY BY A JACK.
Large Socket Set: Metric sockets required (typically 8mm up to 19mm).
Wrench Set: Combination wrenches (metric).
Fuel Line Disconnect Tools: Specifically designed for the different fuel line quick-connect fittings. You need both a tool for the 3/8" fuel feed line and a slightly larger tool (usually the green one) for the 5/16" fuel return line (or vapor line, depending on configuration). Universal sets often include these sizes.
Fuel Pump Lock Ring Tool: ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL. This large special tool engages the tabs on the lock ring securing the pump module inside the tank. A large adjustable wrench might work with significant risk of damaging tabs. The correct tool prevents immense frustration and damage. (Sometimes called a Fuel Tank Wrench).
Large Adjustable Wrench/Crescent Wrench: For the lock ring tool if needed and filler neck hose clamp.
Screwdrivers: Phillips and flathead.
Rubber Mallet or Dead Blow Hammer: Gently persuading the tank or ring.
Brake Cleaner and Clean Rags: For cleaning surfaces.
Drain Pan: Large capacity (minimum 5 gallons, preferably larger) for catching drained fuel.
Syphon Pump or Fluid Transfer Pump: For draining the tank if not using the pump itself.
(Very Helpful) Mechanic's Creeper: For sliding under the vehicle comfortably.
Safety Glasses and Work Gloves.
Torx Bit Set (T20 likely): For the fuel pump electrical connector at the tank (some models).
Penetrating Oil: (e.g., PB Blaster, Kroil) if exhaust clamps or tank straps are rusty.

Diagnosis: Confirming the Fuel Pump is the Culprit

While the symptoms listed strongly indicate a fuel pump problem, DO NOT replace it blindly. Simple checks first:

Check Fuses: Locate the fuel pump fuse in the interior fuse box. Check the fuse with a test light or multimeter. If blown, replace it and see if the problem resolves. If it blows again, you have a short circuit to find.
Check Fuel Pump Relay: Swap the fuel pump relay (usually labeled "FP" or "Fuel Pump" in the PDC under the hood) with a known good identical relay (like the horn or A/C relay). Try starting again. If it works now, replace the relay.
Listen for Pump Prime: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not crank). You should hear a distinct whining or humming sound coming from the rear of the vehicle (around the fuel tank area) for 2-3 seconds. No sound is a strong indicator of a pump power problem or pump failure. However, hearing the pump doesn't guarantee it's generating adequate pressure.
Check Fuel Pressure: This is the definitive test. Requires renting or purchasing a fuel pressure test kit.
- Locate the Schrader valve on the engine's fuel rail (near the injectors, looks like a tire valve).
- Connect the fuel pressure gauge following kit instructions (safety glasses! May still be some pressure).
- Turn the key to "ON" and observe the pressure reading. Immediately upon turning the key to "ON", pressure should build quickly to specification (Typically 49 psi +/- 5 psi for both the 4.0L and 5.2L engines). Note the reading.
- Cycle the key "OFF" and "ON" a few times to see if pressure builds consistently.
- While monitoring the gauge, start the engine. Pressure should remain within spec at idle.
- Gently pinch the fuel return line (if accessible) – pressure should spike significantly. This tests the regulator function.
- Interpretation: Pressure significantly below spec, slow to build, or dropping rapidly after key-off points to a failing pump, a clogged filter, or a leaky regulator (V8). No pressure strongly indicates a pump circuit failure or complete pump failure. Only proceed with pump replacement if pressure testing confirms insufficient pressure delivery.

Step-by-Step: Draining the Fuel Tank

DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP! Draining significantly reduces weight, fire hazard, and mess.

Locate Access Cover: On the 1998 Grand Cherokee, the fuel pump module is only accessible through the top of the fuel tank. There is no access cover inside the cabin. This means the tank MUST be lowered.
Disconnect Negative Battery Terminal: Safety first!
Depressurize Fuel System: As detailed under Safety Precautions.
Position Vehicle: Park on a flat, level surface. Engage the parking brake firmly. Chock the front wheels securely.
Relieve Tank Pressure: Open the fuel filler door and remove the gas cap. This prevents a vacuum lock when draining.
Position Drain Pan: Slide a large drain pan directly under the fuel tank. Ensure it can hold the entire contents of your tank (20+ gallons?).
Access the Fuel Lines: Reach above the tank to locate the fuel lines and electrical connector near the tank's top front.
- Identify Lines: You should see a thicker fuel feed line (to engine), a slightly thinner return line (or vapor line - V8 models have a pressure regulator on the fuel rail, so this may be a return line; earlier ZJs sometimes had it on the module, meaning it would be a vapor/vent line. Don't worry excessively about labeling them for draining).
- Disconnect Electrical Connector: Disengage the locking tab (might be a Torx T20 screw) and carefully unplug the harness connector to the fuel pump module. Do not damage the pins.
Drain Using the Pump (Preferred Method - If Pump Partially Works): If you heard the pump prime earlier (even weakly), this is often easiest.
- Plug the electrical connector back in temporarily and carefully. Run the pump by either:
  - Jumper Method: Temporarily apply 12 volts directly to the fuel pump power wire at the connector using fused jumper wires (consult wiring diagram/FACTORY service manual for pin identification). Exercise extreme caution. Only do this if you know exactly which wire is +12V for the pump motor and you fuse your jumper wire close to the power source.
  - Relay Method: Safest DIY method. Reconnect the battery negative. Reinstall the Fuel Pump Relay. Use a remote starter switch or carefully jump the relay terminals to run the pump continuously. Immediately stop if pump makes unhealthy noises. Have someone watch the drain pan!
- Run the pump until fuel stops flowing into the pan. Keep flames/extremes away! You are actively pumping fuel.
Siphon/Gravity Method (If Pump Dead or Unsure):
- Disconnect the fuel feed line at the connection point near the tank. Have your drain pan positioned. Wrap a shop towel around the connection as you separate it to catch fuel spray.
- You'll need to siphon fuel out through this disconnected line, or if the design allows, disconnect the filler neck hose clamp (large adjustable wrench) near the tank and carefully drain through that (messier). A fluid transfer pump can be inserted into the tank opening once the module is partially loosened (see later steps) – awkward but possible.
- This method is messier and less efficient than using the pump.

Step-by-Step: Fuel Pump Replacement

Final Preparations: Disconnect the negative battery terminal (again!). Ensure tank is drained as much as possible. Position the drain pan back under the tank area. Raise the vehicle using the floor jack placed securely under the rear differential housing or appropriate lifting points. SUPPORT THE VEHICLE SECURELY ON JACK STANDS placed under the designated rear frame rails/lift points at an appropriate height to allow comfortable work underneath. Ensure vehicle is very stable before crawling under. Block the front wheels securely.
Exhaust Removal (Often Necessary):
- On the 5.2L V8, and sometimes the 4.0L I6 (especially with dual exhausts), the exhaust system must be lowered or partially removed to access the tank straps effectively.
- Locate the exhaust clamps connecting the intermediate pipe(s) to the muffler(s)/tailpipe(s). Spray penetrating oil on clamps and flange bolts/nuts if rusty.
- Carefully unbolt the clamps using appropriate sockets/wrenches. Gently separate the pipes, supporting the muffler/tailpipe section if it doesn't easily drop. Move the exhaust sections aside securely. You might need to support the mufflers with a jack/stand or wire temporarily.
Shield & Heat Insulator Removal: Some models have plastic shields or heat insulators covering parts of the tank or straps. Remove any bolts/screws/clips securing these.
Support the Tank: Position your floor jack securely under the middle of the fuel tank. Place a large block of wood (flat) between the jack saddle and the tank to distribute the load and prevent tank damage. Lift the jack just enough to take some weight off the tank straps. Do not lift the vehicle with this jack! It's solely for supporting the tank's weight during strap removal.
Remove Tank Straps:
- Locate the two large metal straps holding the tank up. They run front to back and hook over bolts on the frame. The front of the strap is usually fixed; the rear has nuts/bolts that tighten to secure it.
- Spray penetrating oil liberally on the rear strap bolts/nuts and where the strap hooks onto the front bolts. Let it soak.
- Use an appropriate socket/wrench (often 13mm, 15mm, or 18mm) to loosen and remove the nuts/bolts securing the rear ends of the straps. Support the tank with the jack!
- Carefully disengage the hooked front ends of the straps from the frame bolts by sliding them sideways or down, as possible. The tank is now resting solely on the support jack.
Lower the Tank: Very slowly and carefully lower the floor jack supporting the tank. Lower it several inches until you have ample room to access the top of the tank.
Disconnect Lines & Connector (Confirmed Dry):
- Locate the fuel lines and electrical connector near the top center of the tank (above where the pump module sits).
- Ensure NO FUEL is dripping! Have rags handy. Re-disconnect the electrical connector if you plugged it back in for draining.
- Disconnect the Fuel Lines: This requires the dedicated fuel line disconnect tools.
  - Identify the larger fuel feed line (supply to engine) and the smaller return/vapor line.
  - Select the correct tool size (usually a smaller tool for 3/8" feed line, slightly larger/green for 5/16" return line).
  - Slide the tool firmly into the space between the male nipple on the pump module and the female collar of the fuel line connector, pushing it towards the connector body until you feel it disengage the internal locking tabs. Hold the tool fully engaged.
  - With the tool engaged, firmly pull the female connector straight off the male nipple. Do not twist.
  - Cover the open nipples on the pump module with CLEAN shop towels immediately to prevent dirt/debris entry. Do the same for the ends of the disconnected fuel lines (use plastic caps if available).
  - Repeat for the other fuel line.
Detach Vapor Lines (If Present): You may see one or two smaller rubber vapor/vent lines connected to plastic valves or nipples on top of the tank/sender unit. Carefully squeeze the hose clamps (if screw type, unscrew) and slide them back. Pinch any spring clamps and slide them off the pipe. Carefully twist and pull the hose off.
Remove the Fuel Pump Lock Ring: This is the step requiring the special tool and caution.
- Clean any dirt/debris around the lock ring area (top of module flange). Use brake cleaner and rags. Dirt falling into the tank is very bad.
- Place the fuel pump lock ring tool onto the ring. It fits over the large plastic module flange and has lugs that engage the radial tabs on the metal lock ring.
- Strike the tool firmly counterclockwise (viewed from above) with a hammer. This will jar the ring loose. Sometimes a strong counterclockwise push with the tool is enough if it's not too tight. DO NOT STRIKE THE RING ITSELF. You only need to rotate it about 1/4 to 1/2 turn counterclockwise until it disengages.
- Once loose, carefully lift the lock ring off. It might be stuck by sealant/corrosion – gently pry equally around it with a screwdriver if needed. Avoid letting the ring fall into the tank!
Remove the Fuel Pump Module Assembly: The module is sealed against the tank opening with the large rubber ring you'll be replacing.
- Carefully grasp the module assembly (it has a handle usually). Wiggle it gently straight upwards while twisting slightly. Be mindful of the fuel level float arm inside the tank – don't bend it. Lift it straight out. Have a rag handy as some fuel will drip off the sock/filter. Immediately cover the large hole in the top of the fuel tank with a clean shop towel or plastic bag to prevent massive amounts of dirt from falling in. Place the removed module in a clean area or into a clean drain pan.
Clean and Prepare: Thoroughly clean the sealing surface around the opening on top of the fuel tank. Remove any old sealant residue. Ensure it's dry and spotless. Lay out your new module assembly, new lock ring seal, new filler neck seal (if replacing now), and new lock ring if using.
Transfer Components (If Replacing Pump Motor Only - NOT Recommended): Only if absolutely necessary and using extreme care: Carefully transfer the new pump motor into the old housing assembly, following the new pump's instructions exactly. Transfer the filter sock. Reuse the old fuel level sender if applicable. This carries a high risk of cracking the old housing.
Install New Lock Ring Seal: Take the new thick rubber seal supplied with your module. Carefully locate it into the groove specifically designed for it on the TOP side of the fuel tank opening. Ensure it's fully seated all the way around the groove without twisting. Apply a thin film of clean engine oil (not grease!) to the seal to aid installation and prevent pinching/dry rot. Using the correct seal and installing it properly is critical to prevent leaks.
Install New Fuel Pump Module:
- Remove the protective cap/cover from the new pump's inlet filter sock.
- Carefully align the module assembly (with the float arm) over the tank opening. Ensure the arrow mark on the module housing points towards the FRONT of the vehicle. This orients the float arm correctly. The electrical plug should be near the electrical connector, and the fuel lines should align generally with their counterparts. Double-check that the new seal remains perfectly seated in the tank groove.
- Gently lower the module straight down into the tank, guiding the float arm in without bending. Press it down firmly and evenly by hand until it's fully seated against the tank seal.
Install Lock Ring:
- Place the lock ring over the module flange, aligning its internal tabs with the tabs on the module housing.
- Place the lock ring tool onto the ring and engage its lugs over the ring's radial tabs.
- Tap the tool FIRMLY clockwise (viewed from above) with a hammer until the lock ring pulls down tightly against the module flange and bottoms out. It should stop turning when fully seated. Double-check that the seal hasn't rolled or pinched anywhere (you can look around the perimeter). There should be no visible gap between the ring and the tank flange when properly tightened. Ensure it is tight! Re-tapping is better than leaving it loose. Remove the tool.
Reconnect Fuel Lines: Ensure fuel line connectors and module nipples are CLEAN.
- Remove the protective covers from the module's fuel nipples.
- Align each female fuel line connector over its male nipple. Press it straight on firmly until you hear/feel a definite CLICK. TUG FIRMLY on the connector to verify it's locked onto the nipple and won't pull off. Ensure no accidental disconnects or leaks. Failure here leads to dangerous fuel leaks. Re-check both.
Reconnect Electrical Connector: Plug the electrical harness connector back onto the pump module socket firmly. Secure any locking clips or screws (e.g., Torx screw). DOUBLE-CHECK CONNECTION.
Reconnect Vapor Lines: Reattach any smaller vapor/vent hoses to their ports, securing clamps properly.
Raise the Tank:
- Position the support jack with wood block securely under the tank.
- Carefully raise the jack slowly until the tank lifts enough to expose the strap mounting bolts/front hooks.
- Reinstall the tank straps. Hook the front ends securely onto the frame bolts/pegs. Position the rear ends and install the bolts/nuts finger tight. Ensure straps are correctly positioned and not twisted.
- Tighten the rear strap bolts/nuts securely. Alternately tighten them a little bit at a time to keep the tank square. Use the manufacturer torque spec if known, otherwise firm and very secure.
- Slowly lower the jack until the tank is fully suspended by the straps. Remove the support jack and block.
Refill the Tank: Add several gallons of fresh, clean gasoline. This provides initial prime and weight for testing, but avoid filling completely until successful testing. Install the gas cap.
Reinstall Exhaust/Shields: Reinstall the exhaust system parts you removed, securing all clamps/bolts firmly. Replace any heat shields or protective covers.
Lower the Vehicle: Double-check that all tools/rags/parts are clear. Slowly lower the vehicle onto its wheels. Remove jack stands. Remove front wheel chocks.
Reconnect Battery: Reconnect the negative (-) battery cable securely.
Final Reassembly:
- Check Fuel Filler Neck Seal: If the filler neck was disconnected or disturbed, inspect the large O-ring seal where it meets the tank. Replace it if damaged or old. Reconnect the filler neck hose and tighten the clamp securely.

Priming, Testing, and Final Checks

Initial Prime/Cycle:
- Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not crank). Listen carefully near the rear of the vehicle. You should clearly hear the new fuel pump motor run for 2-3 seconds and then shut off. This primes the system. If it doesn't run, turn the key "OFF" and then back "ON" again to initiate another prime cycle. Listen again.
Check for Leaks: THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!
- Do NOT start the engine yet.
- After priming (pump ran and stopped), carefully slide back under the rear of the vehicle with a strong flashlight.
- Visually inspect EVERY connection you touched:
  - The lock ring area and seal perimeter on top of the tank. Look for wetness.
  - Both fuel line connections (feed and return). Look for drips or weeping.
  - The vapor line connections.
  - The filler neck hose connection if disturbed.
- Smell Carefully: Sniff for the strong odor of gasoline under the vehicle. If you see ANY fuel leaking or smell strong gas vapor, turn the key OFF immediately, disconnect the battery negative, and find and repair the leak before proceeding. Leaks at fuel lines often mean they are not fully connected/locked. Leaks at the seal often mean improper installation or a damaged seal. DO NOT IGNORE LEAKS!
Start the Engine: If no leaks were found during priming, turn the ignition key to START and crank the engine. It may crank for several seconds (up to 10-15 seconds) as the fuel system fully primes and purges air. Be patient. The engine should start. It might run rough for a few seconds as air clears from the fuel rail/injectors.
Pressure Re-Test (Optional but Recommended): If you have access to the pressure gauge, connect it to the Schrader valve now that the system is live. Verify pressure at KOEO prime (~49 psi), at idle (~49 psi), and when pinching the return (pressure spike). Ensures the new pump and regulator function correctly.
Post-Start Leak Check: Once the engine is running smoothly, get back under the vehicle and perform another extremely thorough visual and smell inspection of all fuel connections and the top of the tank. Run the engine for several minutes. Even a tiny leak can become a large one under pressure. NEVER SKIP THIS SECONDARY LEAK CHECK. If leaks appear, shut down immediately and fix them.
Road Test: Once confirmed leak-free, take the Jeep for a cautious drive. Test acceleration, going up hills, and sustained speeds. Verify the fuel gauge reads accurately (might take a minute or a drive cycle to stabilize). Ensure no stalling or hesitation.

Troubleshooting Issues After Replacement

Engine Cranks, No Start (Priming Sound Heard):
- Major fuel leak preventing pressure build-up (recheck all connections meticulously).
- Fuel lines accidentally swapped during reconnection (feed to return/return to feed). Check your routing compared to original positions.
- Electrical connector not fully plugged in/locked at pump module or PDC relay socket.
- Blown fuse. Recheck both FP fuse and main power fuses.
- Faulty new pump module (rare, but possible).
Engine Cranks, No Start (NO Priming Sound):
- Electrical issue: Blown fuse. Faulty relay. Disconnected wire at module or damaged wiring harness. Bad connector. Verify power at the pump connector at KOEO using a multimeter or test light (requires a helper).
- Fuel pump inertia switch triggered? (Usually under dash/passenger side kick panel - press reset button).
- Severely kinked or blocked fuel line (check feed line during install).
Engine Starts But Runs Rough/Misfires or Stalls:
- Residual air in the fuel rail/injectors - usually clears in 30-60 seconds.
- Severe vacuum leak unrelated to the pump install. Check intake hose connections, PCV hose, etc.
- Incorrect fuel pressure (test with gauge if available). Could be a faulty pump module or regulator.
Fuel Gauge Reads Incorrectly:
- New sender assembly calibrated differently (some variation exists).
- Float arm bent during installation (requires module removal to inspect).
- Electrical issue with gauge or wiring.
Fuel Smell Inside or Around Vehicle:
- Leak at the top of tank seal (lock ring area) – usually strongest smell near rear wheel wells or inside trunk cavity. Requires immediate repair.
- Leak at fuel line connection or vapor hose connection (re-tighten/clamp).
- Leak at filler neck seal/hose (inspect and retighten/replace seal).
- Spilled fuel residue – clean thoroughly with soapy water. Gas smell from spillage usually fades after a day or so. Be sure it's not an actual leak.

Conclusion

Replacing the fuel pump in your 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee is a substantial repair that demands respect for safety protocols, patience, and attention to detail. By rigorously following this guide – performing proper diagnosis, draining the tank completely, safely lowering it, correctly replacing the fuel pump module assembly and critical seals, and conducting thorough leak checks – you can successfully restore reliable fuel delivery and solve frustrating engine problems. While challenging, overcoming this task offers immense satisfaction and significant savings compared to dealership costs. Remember: Safety at every step is paramount. Take your time, double-check every connection, and enjoy the revived performance of your Grand Cherokee.

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