Diagnosing and Replacing the Fuel Pump in Your 2015 Dodge Charger: A Comprehensive Guide for Owners

A failing fuel pump in your 2015 Dodge Charger is a critical problem that will prevent your car from running correctly, or even starting at all. If you're experiencing hard starts, sputtering under load, stalling, or a complete no-start situation accompanied by a lack of fuel pump priming noise, replacing the fuel pump assembly within the fuel tank is likely necessary. This guide will walk you through diagnosing a failing pump, choosing the right replacement, and executing the replacement process yourself, providing the essential knowledge every 2015 Charger owner needs to address this common failure.

Recognizing the Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump

Catching fuel pump issues early can prevent you from being stranded. Key signs specific to the 2015 Dodge Charger include:

  1. Engine Cranks But Won't Start: This is the most common and definitive sign. When you turn the key to the "ON" position (without cranking), you should hear a distinct whirring or humming sound for about 2-3 seconds from the rear of the car – that's the fuel pump priming the system. If this sound is absent and the engine cranks normally but refuses to fire, the fuel pump is a prime suspect.
  2. Engine Sputtering at High Speeds or Under Load: A weak or intermittently failing pump struggles to deliver consistent fuel pressure, causing noticeable hesitation, jerking, or power loss, especially during acceleration, climbing hills, or maintaining highway speeds.
  3. Sudden Engine Stalling: The engine may stall unexpectedly while driving, then potentially restart after sitting for a short period as the pump cools down. This indicates the pump motor is overheating or failing internally.
  4. Loss of Power During Acceleration: As you press the accelerator, demanding more fuel, a failing pump cannot increase delivery adequately, leading to a noticeable lack of power.
  5. Vehicle Surges: While less common than sputtering, inconsistent fuel flow caused by a bad pump can sometimes result in unexpected surges in engine power.
  6. Reduced Fuel Economy: A struggling pump may run longer or harder than necessary to maintain pressure, or simply deliver too much or too little fuel inefficiently, leading to a noticeable drop in miles per gallon.
  7. Unusual Whining Noise from Fuel Tank: While some pump noise is normal during priming, a loud, high-pitched whining or droning sound that persists after starting or gets progressively louder often signals pump bearing wear or impending failure.

Understanding the 2015 Dodge Charger Fuel System

Before diving into replacement, grasp how your Charger gets fuel:

  • Fuel Tank: Located under the rear seat section of the vehicle. It holds the fuel and houses the fuel pump module.
  • Fuel Pump Module: This is the assembly accessed from inside the tank. It includes the electric fuel pump itself, the fuel level sending unit (float and sensor), the pump strainer ("sock" filter), the primary fuel filter, pressure regulator (depending on the system - some 2015 Chargers use a returnless system where pressure is regulated at the pump), and the supporting bracket/housing.
  • Fuel Lines: High-pressure lines transport fuel from the tank to the engine bay. Modern Chargers primarily use rigid lines or sections of reinforced flexible hose.
  • Fuel Rail and Injectors: The fuel rail distributes pressurized fuel to the individual fuel injectors for each cylinder. The injectors spray a precise amount of fuel into the intake ports.
  • Fuel Pressure Sensor/Regulator: Monitors and/or regulates the fuel pressure within the rail. On returnless systems common in the 2015 Charger, the regulator is typically part of the fuel pump module inside the tank.
  • Powertrain Control Module (PCM): The engine computer controls the fuel pump relay based on input from sensors and safety systems (like the inertia switch). It signals the pump to prime upon ignition "ON" and runs it continuously when the engine is cranking or running. It relies on signals from the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) and other inputs to activate the pump.

The Critical Role of the Fuel Pump

The fuel pump is the heart of the Charger's fuel delivery system. Its sole purpose is to draw gasoline from the tank and deliver it at a consistently high pressure to the fuel injectors. Modern GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection) engines like those in many 2015 Chargers (especially V6 and Hemi V8) require extremely high fuel pressure – often in the range of 500 PSI to over 2,000 PSI at the injectors. The in-tank pump generates this initial high pressure. The pump must deliver the precise volume of fuel demanded by the engine under all conditions – idle, wide-open throttle, cold start, hot operation – without faltering. A malfunction disrupts the critical air/fuel mixture, leading directly to the symptoms described.

Diagnosing a Fuel Pump Problem: Beyond the Obvious

While the symptoms strongly suggest a pump issue, proper diagnosis is crucial to avoid unnecessary expense and labor. Here’s a methodical approach:

  1. Perform the "Priming" Test: With the vehicle in Park (or Neutral for Manual) and the parking brake firmly applied, turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not crank the engine). Listen carefully near the rear seats or open the trunk and listen near the fuel tank area. You should hear the fuel pump run for 2-3 seconds. No sound is a major indicator of pump failure, circuit problems (fuse, relay, wiring), or PCM issues.
  2. Listen While Cranking/Stalling: If you hear priming but the engine still doesn't start, have a helper crank the engine while you listen at the rear. A working pump will run continuously while cranking. If it cuts out during cranking or while the engine is stalling, the pump is highly suspect.
  3. Check Fuel Pump Fuse: Locate the fuse box, typically found in the engine compartment or sometimes under the dash on the driver's side (refer to your owner's manual or fuse box cover diagram). Find the fuse designated for the fuel pump (commonly labeled "FUEL PUMP," "FP," "F/P," or "FUEL"). Use a fuse puller or needle-nose pliers to remove it. Visually inspect the fuse's wire element – is it broken or melted? Check the fuse amperage with a multimeter set to continuity or ohms. A blown fuse indicates a problem in the circuit (could be pump failure causing an overload or a wiring short). Replace with an identical amperage fuse if blown. If the new fuse blows immediately, the problem is likely a wiring short or a completely seized pump motor. Do not keep replacing fuses without further diagnosis.
  4. Test Fuel Pump Relay: Relays act as switches controlled by the PCM. The fuel pump relay is found in the same fuse boxes (underhood or interior). Locate it (check manual/diagram). A simple test involves swapping it with another identical relay in the box (e.g., the horn or headlight relay). Turn the key to ON. Does the pump prime now? If yes, the original relay was faulty. If not, proceed. You can also test the relay using a multimeter, but swapping is often easier.
  5. Verify Voltage at the Pump Connector: This is the most definitive electrical test but requires accessing the pump connector, usually under the rear seat or behind access panels in the trunk. Safety First: Depressurize the fuel system (see below) and disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the electrical connector going to the fuel pump module. Set your multimeter to DC Volts, typically 20V range. Have a helper turn the ignition to the "ON" position. The meter should show battery voltage (approx. 12V) at the appropriate terminals on the wiring harness side of the connector for about 2-3 seconds during prime. CAUTION: Check vehicle service manual or wiring diagram for exact pin identification. Avoid shorting pins. No voltage confirms a circuit problem upstream (fuse, relay, wiring, PCM). Good voltage during the prime cycle but no pump operation confirms the pump itself is faulty.
  6. Check Fuel Pressure: This is the gold standard test but requires a specific fuel pressure gauge kit compatible with your Charger's fuel rail schrader valve (similar to a tire valve stem). Critical Safety: Fuel pressure can be very high. Refer to a service manual for the depressurization procedure before connecting the gauge (usually involves removing the fuel pump relay or fuse, then cranking the engine for 10-15 seconds to bleed off pressure). Connect the gauge securely. Turn the ignition ON to prime the system. Note the pressure. Compare it to the factory specification (refer to a service manual - common prime pressure for a 2015 Charger can range from approx. 50-65 PSI for return-type systems or much higher for GDI, but exact specs vary by engine). Start the engine. Pressure should remain relatively steady at idle and increase significantly under load or acceleration. Low pressure, or pressure that drops significantly when the engine is revved or load is applied, confirms a weak pump, clogged filter, or failing pressure regulator.

Essential Tools and Supplies for Replacement

Replacing the fuel pump yourself requires preparation. Gather these items before starting:

  • New Fuel Pump Module Assembly: Crucially important - get one specifically listed for a 2015 Dodge Charger with your engine size (e.g., 3.6L V6 Pentastar, 5.7L V8 Hemi, 6.4L SRT). Brands include Bosch, Delphi, Carter, Denso, ACDelco, and Spectra Premium – research reviews for reliability. Avoid bargain-basement parts. An "OEM equivalent" from a reputable brand is often sufficient.
  • Basic Hand Tools:
    • Ratchet, sockets (various sizes including deep sockets, commonly SAE and Metric required - Phillips and Flathead screwdrivers)
    • Torx bits (T20 is common for access panel screws)
    • Trim removal tools or plastic pry bars
    • Pliers (needle-nose, standard)
    • Razor blade or utility knife (for seat sealant)
    • Small pick or hook tool
  • Specialty Tools:
    • Fuel Pump Lock Ring Tool: Mandatory. This is a large plastic or metal tool with pegs or prongs that engage the notches on the pump module lock ring. Using the wrong tool can damage the ring and make removal nearly impossible.
    • Fuel Line Disconnect Tools: A set of plastic or metal tools specifically sized for the fuel lines on your Charger. These safely release the plastic quick-connect fittings without breaking them.
  • Supplies:
    • Shop towels or rags (LOTS of them - gasoline is messy)
    • Nitrile gloves (protects skin)
    • Safety glasses/goggles
    • Flashlight or work light (visibility is poor)
    • Container for draining/disposing of old gasoline (several gallons capacity - jugs or approved container)
    • Fuel system O-ring lubricant (clean engine oil works in a pinch for lubricating only, but proper dielectric silicone grease designed for fuel systems is better for protecting electrical connectors).
    • New fuel filler neck seal/gasket (often recommended if original is brittle)
  • Fire Extinguisher: Class B rated, within arm's reach throughout the entire job. Non-negotiable safety item.
  • Service Manual: While this guide provides specific steps, referencing the official 2015 Charger service manual (available online through subscription services or as PDFs) is highly recommended for torque specs, detailed diagrams, and safety procedures.

Important Safety Precautions - Non-Negotiable

Working on the fuel system carries significant risks. Strictly follow these safety rules:

  1. Work Outside or in Very Well-Ventilated Area: Gasoline vapors are extremely flammable and explosive. Never work indoors or near pilot lights, sparks, open flames, or anything creating heat or ignition sources. Do not smoke!
  2. Disconnect the Battery: Disconnect the NEGATIVE (-) battery cable BEFORE beginning any work on the fuel system. Tape the end to prevent accidental contact. This prevents electrical sparks near fuel vapors and stops the pump from activating unexpectedly.
  3. Depressurize the Fuel System: This is critical.
    • Locate the fuel pump fuse or relay in the engine bay fuse box (use manual/diagram).
    • Remove the fuse or relay.
    • Attempt to start the engine. It will crank but won't start. Crank for about 15-20 seconds. This uses the remaining fuel pressure. Repeat once if unsure.
    • Place a shop towel or rag over the fuel rail schrader valve (if equipped) and carefully depress the valve core slightly (like checking tire pressure) using a small screwdriver or valve stem tool to release any residual pressure. Expect a small spray.
  4. Drain Fuel Tank as Much as Possible: The tank does not need to be completely empty, but having less gasoline reduces spill risk and makes the pump assembly lighter and easier to handle. Drive until the fuel light comes on or use a siphoning pump designed for gasoline to extract fuel through the filler neck. Never siphon by mouth! Be prepared for the weight – a full 18.5-gallon tank weighs over 100 pounds.
  5. Have Fire Extinguisher Handy: Keep a Class B fire extinguisher immediately accessible throughout the entire process. Know how to use it.
  6. No Sparks or Flames: Eliminate all ignition sources. Do not use tools that could create sparks near the fuel tank opening. Use only hand tools.
  7. Protect Eyes and Skin: Wear safety glasses/goggles to protect from gasoline splashes and debris. Nitrile gloves protect skin from irritation.
  8. Clean Up Spills Immediately: Use rags for small drips. For larger spills, use absorbent pads or kitty litter designed for oil/fuel, then dispose of properly.
  9. Handle Parts Carefully: Avoid dropping tools or parts into the open fuel tank. The pump assembly and wiring are delicate.
  10. Do Not Reuse Old Seals: The O-ring seal on the pump module flange is critical. Always replace it with the new one included in the kit. Reusing an old O-ring almost guarantees a leak.
  11. Verify Correct Installation: Double-check all connections, hoses, and electrical plugs are secure and routed correctly before reassembly. Ensure the locking ring is fully seated.

Step-by-Step Replacement Guide for the 2015 Dodge Charger Fuel Pump

Follow these steps carefully:

  1. Prepare:
    • Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the parking brake firmly, and chock the front wheels.
    • Perform all safety steps: Ventilation, disconnect battery negative terminal, depressurize system, drain fuel tank as much as possible, gather tools and fire extinguisher.
  2. Access the Fuel Pump Module:
    • Locate the Access Panel: In the 2015 Charger, the fuel pump module is accessed from inside the cabin, typically under the rear seat bench cushion. Carefully fold down the rear seat backrest(s) if necessary.
    • Remove Rear Seat Bottom Cushion: There are usually two anchor points at the front edge of the cushion. Locate the release tabs or hooks near the front corners of the cushion. Pull sharply upwards on the cushion near these points to release the clips. It may require significant force. Sometimes seat-mounted seatbelts need to be unbolted from under the cushion – check your manual.
    • Expose the Access Panel: Once the cushion is removed, you'll see the floor. The fuel pump access panel is a metal or plastic cover secured by several screws, often Torx (T20 is common) or bolts. Remove these screws/bolts carefully.
    • Clean Around the Cover: Before removing the cover, thoroughly clean the surrounding area with a dry rag to prevent dirt and debris from falling into the tank when it's opened.
  3. Disconnect Electrical and Fuel Lines:
    • Mark Connections: Before disconnecting anything, use masking tape and a marker to label each electrical connector and fuel line clearly (e.g., "Pump Connector," "Vent Line," "Supply Line," "Return Line" – if equipped). 2015 Chargers often use a returnless system (only one main fuel line to the pump module), but there will be electrical connectors and likely a vapor/vent line.
    • Disconnect Electrical Connectors: Press the locking tabs and carefully disconnect all electrical connectors leading to the pump module assembly. Note their orientation.
    • Disconnect Fuel Lines: Identify the fuel supply line(s) and any vapor/vent lines. Use the correct size fuel line disconnect tool:
      • Push the disconnect tool firmly into the space between the plastic fitting collar and the pump module's line socket.
      • While holding the tool in place to depress the locking tangs inside the fitting, firmly pull the fuel line straight off the module's socket.
      • Expect small amounts of residual fuel. Have rags ready. Be careful not to kink the lines.
  4. Remove the Pump Lock Ring:
    • Clean Debris: Clean the top of the pump module flange and the ring grooves again to prevent debris falling in.
    • Locate Lock Ring: The pump assembly is secured by a large, threaded plastic lock ring.
    • Use the Correct Tool: Position the fuel pump lock ring tool onto the ring, engaging its pins/slots into the ring's notches.
    • Unlock: Turn the ring counter-clockwise (lefty-loosey). This often requires significant force, sometimes a hammer gently tapped on the tool handle can help break it free. Caution: Do not use a screwdriver and hammer directly on the plastic ring, as it can shatter. Continue turning the ring until it's completely unthreaded. Lift the ring off carefully.
  5. Remove the Old Fuel Pump Module:
    • Mark Orientation: Before lifting, note which way the module is oriented (marking its position relative to the tank or the float arm position).
    • Carefully Lift: Carefully lift the pump assembly straight up and out of the tank. Be mindful of the float arm and sock filter on the bottom – maneuver it carefully through the opening. If it feels stuck, gently rock it side-to-side while lifting. Do not force or bend the components. Place it on a clean shop towel.
    • Seal the Tank Opening: Immediately cover the large tank opening with a CLEAN shop towel or rag to prevent massive debris entry and minimize vapor escape. Do not leave it open unnecessarily.
  6. Transfer Components (If Applicable):
    • Optional: Some replacement modules might be a bare pump and bracket. If yours is a complete module, skip this. If you have components to swap, carefully transfer them like the fuel level sending unit and float arm, wiring harness, or pressure regulator according to the instructions included with your new pump module. Take photos during disassembly if transferring parts to ensure correct reassembly.
  7. Prepare the New Pump Module:
    • Inspect & Lubricate Seal: Inspect the new module. Locate the large, thick, round O-ring or seal on the flange that seats against the tank opening. Apply a thin coat of fresh engine oil or fuel-compatible silicone grease to the seal and the sealing groove on the tank opening flange. This ensures a proper seal and prevents binding during installation. Do not use any petroleum-based grease other than clean engine oil unless specified as fuel-safe.
    • Ensure Correct Filter Sock: Verify the filter sock ("strainer") on the bottom of the new pump module is clean and undamaged. Compare its style to the old one – it should match.
  8. Install the New Pump Module:
    • Align Correctly: Hold the new assembly, aligning it exactly as the old one was positioned. Remember the orientation marks you made. Ensure the float arm is not bent or obstructed. The electrical connectors and fuel line connections should face the correct direction for easy hookup later.
    • Carefully Lower: Slowly lower the pump assembly straight down into the tank until the module flange seats firmly against the tank opening flange. Ensure the O-ring remains properly seated in its groove and is not pinched or rolled. Wiggle slightly to ensure full seating.
  9. Reinstall the Lock Ring:
    • Hand-Thread: Place the lock ring back onto the assembly, aligning its threads correctly. Hand-tighten it clockwise as far as possible.
    • Tool Tighten: Use the lock ring tool again. Tighten the ring clockwise ("righty-tighty") firmly until it feels snug. Important: Do not overtighten. Generally, tighten until the ring bottoms out and feels seated. Excessive force can crack the plastic ring or tank flange. The ring should not have large gaps between its tabs and the tank flange when tightened.
  10. Reconnect Fuel Lines and Electricals:
    • Fuel Lines: Reconnect the fuel lines and vapor/vent lines you disconnected. Push each quick-connect fitting firmly onto its socket until you hear or feel a distinct "click," indicating the internal locking tabs have engaged. Tug gently on each line to confirm it's locked.
    • Electricals: Reconnect all electrical connectors securely, aligning them correctly. Ensure all locking tabs snap into place. Double-check your markings.
  11. Final Assembly:
    • Clean Surrounding Area: Wipe away any spilled gasoline or dirt around the module flange and opening.
    • Reinstall Access Cover: Position the access cover over the pump and reinstall the screws/bolts securely. Do not overtighten.
    • Reinstall Rear Seat Cushion: Carefully align the cushion hooks with the anchor points and push it firmly down into place until fully latched on both sides. Reinstall any seat belt anchors if removed.
    • Reconnect Battery: Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  12. Prime the Fuel System & Check for Leaks:
    • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not crank). You should hear the new fuel pump run for its priming cycle (2-3 seconds). Repeat this 3-4 times. This fills the lines and builds pressure.
    • Critically Important: With the ignition OFF, carefully inspect the area around the pump module flange and all fuel line connections for any signs of leaks. Look closely with a flashlight. If you see ANY drips or smell strong fuel, DO NOT start the engine. Turn off the ignition, disconnect the battery again, and recheck your connections and the O-ring seal. Leaks must be fixed before proceeding.
  13. Start the Engine:
    • If no leaks were detected, start the engine. It may crank a bit longer than usual as air bleeds out of the system. The engine should start and run. Listen for unusual noises from the pump during idle.
  14. Road Test:
    • Once running smoothly at idle, take the vehicle for a careful road test in a safe area. Check for normal operation during acceleration, at constant speed, and under light load. Ensure there are no hiccups, stumbles, or stalls.

Important Considerations After Installation

  • Check Engine Light: If your Charger had a Check Engine Light (CEL) due to the failing pump (often P0087 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low, or similar), it might take a few driving cycles to clear. If the light remains on after driving a bit, or a new one appears, have the trouble codes read to confirm the repair was successful.
  • Fuel Level Sensor Calibration: On some vehicles, replacing the pump module can temporarily confuse the fuel gauge. Fill the gas tank completely. Drive the vehicle normally for a day or two. The gauge should recalibrate itself. If it consistently shows incorrect levels after refilling, there may be an issue with the new fuel level sensor in the module.
  • Professional Diagnosis: If you went through this process but the original problem persists, or new problems arise, it indicates your diagnosis might have been incomplete. Seek a professional mechanic for a full diagnostic evaluation. It's possible other issues exist (like a failing fuel pressure sensor, clogged main fuel filter, injector problems, wiring harness issues, or PCM faults).

How Long Should a 2015 Charger Fuel Pump Last?

There's no absolute mileage guarantee. Fuel pump lifespan in a 2015 Dodge Charger varies greatly depending on driving habits, fuel quality, and tank condition.

  • Premature Failure (Under 60,000 miles): Often caused by frequently running the tank very low (below 1/4 tank). The fuel cools and lubricates the pump. Continuously low levels cause overheating and premature wear. Contaminated fuel (dirt, water) also destroys pumps quickly.
  • Typical Failure Range (70,000 - 120,000 miles): This is the most common lifespan window for the original pump. Dirt buildup on the filter sock restricts flow and strains the pump. Wear and tear on motor brushes, bearings, and windings naturally occurs.
  • Extended Lifespan (150,000+ miles): Achievable with consistently good habits: avoid routinely running below 1/4 tank, using quality fuel (Top Tier detergent gasoline helps prevent sock clogging), and promptly replacing the fuel filter if applicable (though many modern Chargers have a "lifetime" filter integrated with the in-tank pump module).

Protecting Your New Fuel Pump

Extend the life of your investment with simple practices:

  1. Avoid Running on Low Fuel: Make it a habit to refill your tank when it reaches the 1/4 mark. Treat 1/4 tank as empty. This keeps the pump submerged and cool.
  2. Use Quality Fuel: Choose Top Tier Detergent Gasoline whenever possible. These fuels contain higher levels of detergent additives that help keep the fuel system cleaner, preventing the filter sock from clogging prematurely.
  3. Replace the Fuel Filter as Scheduled: While the primary sock filter is only replaced when the pump module is changed, some Chargers may have a secondary inline fuel filter under the car. If your maintenance schedule calls for it, replace it promptly to reduce strain on the pump.
  4. Keep Your Tank Cap Tight: Ensure the gas cap is properly tightened after refueling. A loose or missing cap can trigger the Evaporative Emissions System (EVAP) CEL codes and may allow debris entry.
  5. Address Fuel System Contamination Promptly: If you suspect you got bad fuel (e.g., misfires after filling up), get it diagnosed and potentially drained/cleaned professionally.

OEM vs. Aftermarket Fuel Pump Modules: Making the Choice

  • OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer): A module branded Mopar or made by the same supplier as the original (like Bosch or Continental often are for Dodge). This is the exact match for your car. Pros: Guaranteed compatibility, reliability meets factory standards. Cons: Significantly more expensive than aftermarket (often 2-3 times the cost).
  • High-Quality Aftermarket: Brands like Bosch (which supplies many OEMs), Delphi, Carter, Denso, ACDelco Professional, or Spectra Premium. Pros: Often very high quality, "OEM equivalent" performance and fitment, significantly lower cost than Mopar. Excellent reliability when chosen wisely. Cons: Minor packaging differences are possible. Warranty lengths may vary. Requires careful selection for your exact model/engine.
  • Economy Aftermarket: Budget-branded units. Pros: Lowest upfront cost. Cons: Risk of subpar components causing premature failure (months, not years), potential fitment issues, inconsistent quality control. Can leave you stranded again quickly. Generally not recommended for critical components like a fuel pump.
  • Recommendation: For best long-term reliability and peace of mind, choose a module from a reputable aftermarket brand like Bosch, Delphi, or Carter. Research reviews specific to the 2015 Charger. The price/performance ratio is usually excellent. OEM (Mopar) is ideal if budget is no concern or you demand absolute factory specification.

When Replacement Might Not Be Enough

Rarely, replacing the fuel pump doesn't resolve the issue. Other components can cause similar symptoms:

  • Fuel Pump Relay: Even if you tested it, it can fail intermittently.
  • Fuel Pump Fuse: Blown again? Indicates a short circuit elsewhere (wiring harness chafing, bad pump connector).
  • Fuel Pressure Regulator: If part of the rail assembly and not in-tank, failure can cause low pressure.
  • Clogged Fuel Filter: (If applicable - some Chargers have an additional filter). Often overlooked.
  • Bad Fuel Injectors: Heavy clogging can mimic pump failure, though usually more cylinder-specific.
  • Crank Position Sensor (CKP): Critical. If this fails, the PCM won't know to run the fuel pump continuously once cranking starts. Can cause prime, then no start.
  • Severe Wiring Harness Damage: Corrosion, chafing, or rodent damage in wiring from the fuse box to the pump can cause voltage drop or complete circuit failure.
  • Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM): Rare, but the PCM controls the relay.

If your new fuel pump behaves like the old one, revisit your diagnostics with professional help if needed.

Troubleshooting Post-Replacement Issues

  • Engine Won't Start:
    • Did you prime the system? Ignition ON/OFF 3-4 times first.
    • Double-check all electrical connections: Battery cables, pump connectors, fuse, relay.
    • Confirm fuel pressure using a gauge.
    • Verify spark at the plugs.
  • Fuel Leak:
    • Immediate action: Turn off ignition. Disconnect battery negative.
    • Visually pinpoint the leak source (O-ring at flange? Fuel line connection?).
    • Ensure O-ring wasn't pinched or damaged. Ensure lock ring was properly seated and tightened.
    • Ensure fuel line "clicks" were heard when connecting. Reconnect if possible.
  • Loud Whining Noise from Pump:
    • Some new pumps can be slightly louder initially but should quiet down after a short period.
    • Ensure the lock ring was not overtightened causing binding.
    • If excessively loud or getting louder over a few days, it could indicate a defective pump, improper installation causing vibration, or contamination causing starvation.
  • Incorrect Fuel Gauge Reading:
    • Fill the tank completely. Drive for several cycles. Usually resolves.
    • If consistently inaccurate, the fuel level sensor in the new module may be faulty or misaligned during installation. Needs verification/test by a mechanic.
  • Check Engine Light On:
    • Get the trouble codes read (P-codes). Common post-pump replacement codes are P0455/P0456 (EVAP leak - check gas cap tightness, vapor lines connected, filler neck seal) or P0087 again (low fuel pressure - indicating a problem with the new pump or installation).

Cost Considerations

Cost varies widely depending on part choice and labor:

  • Part Only:
    • High-Quality Aftermarket Module: 300
    • Mopar OEM Module: 700+
  • Professional Labor:
    • Due to the location (rear seat removal, tank access), diagnosis and replacement typically take 2-4 hours of shop time.
    • Total Professional Cost (Parts + Labor): 1500+
  • DIY Cost: The cost of your chosen module + any specialty tools you didn't have (50 for ring tool/disconnect set) + shop supplies. Substantial savings over shop prices.

Conclusion

A failing fuel pump in your 2015 Dodge Charger is a serious issue that demands immediate attention. Diagnosing it properly involves listening for the prime, checking fuses and relays, testing voltage, and crucially, verifying fuel pressure. While replacing the in-tank pump module is a significant undertaking requiring strict safety adherence, specialized tools (lock ring tool, line disconnects), and methodical work, it is a feasible DIY project for many mechanically inclined owners. The keys to success are thorough preparation, choosing a high-quality replacement module specifically for the 2015 Charger and your engine, meticulously following the steps to avoid leaks and damage, and prioritizing safety above all else. By addressing a failing pump promptly and following good fuel management habits, you ensure reliable performance and longevity for your Dodge Charger.

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