Electric Fuel Pump for 350 Chevy: Your Essential Upgrade for Power and Reliability

For virtually any non-stock 350 Chevy engine, swapping to a quality electric fuel pump isn't just an upgrade – it's often a necessity for achieving reliable performance, maximizing horsepower potential, and eliminating frustrating fuel delivery issues that plague mechanical pumps under pressure. Whether your classic Chevelle, rugged K10 pickup, or spirited Camaro houses this legendary small block, moving beyond the limitations of the original mechanical fuel pump unlocks significant benefits. This definitive guide cuts through the noise, providing the practical knowledge and specific recommendations you need to choose, install, and benefit from the right electric fuel pump for your 350 Chevy application.

Why Ditch the Mechanical Pump on Your 350?

The factory mechanical fuel pump, driven by an eccentric on the engine's camshaft, was designed for reliability and simplicity in stock applications. However, it has inherent limitations that become glaringly apparent when you demand more from your 350 Chevy:

  • Limited Flow Capacity: Mechanical pumps struggle to deliver sufficient fuel volume for engines making significantly more power than stock. Trying to feed a modified 350 (higher compression, bigger carb, aggressive cam, nitrous, boost) with a mechanical pump often leads to lean conditions, especially at high RPM, risking severe engine damage.
  • Pressure Inconsistencies: Fuel pressure from a mechanical pump pulsates and can drop off dramatically at high engine speeds. Fuel pressure gauges reveal this instability. Consistent pressure is critical for carburetor metering or EFI system operation.
  • Vapor Lock Vulnerability: Mechanical pumps, typically mounted on the engine block, are exposed to intense under-hood heat. This heat soaks into the fuel lines and the pump body itself, increasing the risk of fuel vaporizing before it reaches the carburetor. The pump then struggles to move vapor, causing stuttering, loss of power, and stalling – especially annoying in traffic or hot weather. Electric pumps, especially when mounted near or in the cooler fuel tank, drastically reduce this risk.
  • Installation Constraints & Clearance Issues: On engines with radical camshaft profiles (high lift, long duration), the cam eccentric's reduced lift can severely hamper the mechanical pump's stroke, crippling its output. Additionally, certain performance intakes or accessory brackets can physically interfere with mechanical pump placement.
  • Priming Difficulty: After extended downtime, a mechanical pump needs cranking to pull fuel from the tank and build pressure. This puts extra strain on the starter and battery. An electric pump primes the system instantly with the turn of a key (or a momentary priming switch).
  • Supporting Fuel Injection: If you've upgraded your 350 Chevy to Throttle Body Injection (TBI) or a more modern Multi-Port Fuel Injection (MPFI) system, an electric fuel pump capable of higher, consistent pressure is an absolute requirement. Mechanical pumps simply cannot meet the demands of EFI.

Key Benefits of the Electric Fuel Pump Upgrade

Installing a suitable electric fuel pump addresses all the shortcomings above and delivers tangible advantages:

  1. Guaranteed Adequate Fuel Supply: Electric pumps are selected based on their flow capacity (Gallons Per Hour - GPH) and pressure output. Choose the right pump, and you ensure your modified 350 Chevy never starves for fuel, even at peak demand.
  2. Stable Fuel Pressure: Quality electric pumps combined with a proper fuel pressure regulator deliver incredibly consistent pressure to the carburetor or fuel injectors. This stability translates directly to more precise air/fuel mixture control, smoother throttle response, and optimized performance across the RPM range.
  3. Dramatic Reduction in Vapor Lock: Mounting the pump close to the fuel tank, submerged in-tank, or using a pump designed for high ambient heat exposure significantly reduces fuel heating. Cooler fuel minimizes percolation and vapor formation, eliminating a major headache associated with hot V8 engines.
  4. Easier Hot Starts & Priming: Electric pumps prime the fuel system almost instantly. Turn the key to "Run" (before cranking), and pressure builds immediately. No more lengthy cranking sessions when the engine is hot.
  5. Flexibility for Future Upgrades: Choosing a pump with slightly more capacity than your current needs provides valuable headroom. If you plan further engine mods (bigger carb, larger cam, nitrous system, turbo/supercharger), you might only need to adjust the regulator or maybe upgrade lines, not necessarily replace the pump itself.
  6. Overcoming Camshaft Limitations: An electric fuel pump operates independently of camshaft profile. Engine builders can select the most radical camshafts without worrying about sacrificing fuel delivery capability.
  7. Simplified Diagnostics: Electric fuel systems are generally easier to diagnose. Listening for pump activation, checking power/ground, using a pressure gauge at the regulator or rail provides clear steps to pinpoint fuel delivery issues.

Choosing the RIGHT Electric Fuel Pump: Key Specifications Explained

Selecting the wrong pump leads to poor performance, premature failure, or even engine damage. Focus on these critical specifications for your 350 Chevy:

  • Flow Rate (GPH): This is the pump's ability to move volume of fuel.
    • Estimating Needs: A common, conservative guideline is to select a pump rated for at least 0.5 GPH per rated horsepower. For example:
      • Stock ~250 HP 350: 125 GPH minimum (0.5 x 250).
      • Moderate 400 HP 350: 200 GPH minimum.
      • Serious 500+ HP 350: 250+ GPH.
    • Practical Consideration: Pump flow ratings are often given at zero pressure ("free flow"). Real-world flow is lower against the resistance of filters, lines, and the regulator. Always choose a pump whose rated flow exceeds your calculated minimum required flow by a comfortable margin (e.g., 30-50%). Don't cut it close.
    • Carburetor vs. EFI: Carburetors generally require less pressure than EFI but similar or even higher flow volumes compared to EFI systems at lower horsepower levels due to the venturi design. High-performance carbureted engines can demand significant flow.
  • Operating Pressure (PSI): This is the force the pump exerts against the fuel system resistance to deliver the required flow.
    • Carburetor Requirements: Typical carbureted applications need regulated pressure between 5.5 PSI and 7 PSI. Some high-flow carbs or specific models might recommend slightly higher, but exceeding 8-9 PSI consistently often leads to flooding, stuck needles/seats, and drivability problems. The pump's maximum pressure capability must be significantly higher than your desired regulated pressure.
    • EFI Requirements: Throttle Body Injection (TBI) usually requires 9-13 PSI. Multi-Port Fuel Injection (MPFI) commonly requires 43-60 PSI (check your specific injector/ECU requirements!). EFI pumps are specifically designed for these higher pressures; carburetor-focused pumps generally are not.
  • Voltage Compatibility: While many universal pumps can handle a range (e.g., 12V nominal, operating down to ~9V), consistent voltage is crucial for performance. Low system voltage reduces pump speed, flow, and pressure. Ensure your charging system and wiring are robust. Some high-performance pumps strongly recommend a dedicated relay wired with adequate gauge wire directly to the battery to maintain voltage.
  • Type of Pump: Understanding the mechanism helps with selection and noise considerations.
    • Roller Vane: Common, durable design for both carb and EFI pumps. Uses rollers pushed out by centrifugal force to create pumping action. Good flow, moderate pressure capability, can be audible (humming/buzzing). Good value for mild to moderately built 350s.
    • Gearotor/Twin Gear: Typically very quiet, high-flow pumps suitable for high-horsepower carb and EFI applications. Generally more expensive than roller vane but offer smooth operation.
    • Brushless Motors: Increasingly common in higher-end pumps. Offer very long service life, consistent performance, excellent resistance to electrical noise, and sometimes lower power draw. Found in many performance and OE-style EFI replacement pumps.
  • Intended Mounting Location: This influences pump selection.
    • In-Tank: Submerged in fuel. Pros: Cool, quiet operation (fuel dampens noise), self-priming, gravity-fed inlet. Cons: Requires modifying or replacing the fuel tank sender/pump assembly (can be complex on older cars). Ideal for performance EFI conversions where OEM-style quietness and reliability are desired. Requires special pump hangers or assemblies.
    • In-Line (Frame Mount): Mounted along the frame rail. Pros: Easier installation access, potentially cheaper pump itself. Cons: Can be noisier (solid-mounted vibrations), more vulnerable to road debris/salt, greater risk of vapor lock on hot days compared to in-tank (though much better than engine-mounted mechanical pumps). Must be mounted below tank level or include auxiliary lift pump/siphon jet for reliable priming.
    • Fuel Cell Mounting: Similar considerations to in-tank or frame-mount, depending on cell design and pump mount.

Popular & Proven Electric Fuel Pump Recommendations for the 350 Chevy

Based on application, horsepower level, and budget, here are some widely trusted options:

  1. Mild Street 350 Chevy (Stock to ~375HP - Carbureted):

    • Carter P4070: A budget-friendly roller vane in-line pump. Quiet operation for its type, rated ~72 GPH @ 10 PSI (free flow ~110 GPH). Good for stock rebuilds to mild builds. Requires minimum pre-filtering. Popular choice due to reliability and value.
    • Holley Mighty Mite 12-426-7: Another proven in-line roller vane pump. Rated 97 GPH @ 7 PSI (free flow ~140 GPH). Slightly higher flow capacity than the Carter P4070 for those wanting more headroom or slightly bigger engines. Known for durability.
    • ACDelco EP381 (GM Original Equipment): Often used as an in-tank upgrade/modern replacement in GM vehicles. OEM reliability. Estimated flow around 60-70 GPH @ 60+ PSI (but used for carb applications regulated down). Needs proper mounting (in-tank configuration or specific module) and pressure regulation for carb use. Great low-noise option if you commit to the tank modifications.

  2. Performance Street/Strip 350 Chevy (~375HP - 500HP - Carbureted):

    • Holley Blue (12-801-1): Iconic, high-volume roller vane pump. Rated for 110 GPH @ 14 PSI, capable of supporting 550+ HP in carb applications depending on regulator setup. Requires a reliable pressure regulator (like the matching Holley regulator 12-804). Known for its distinctive buzz/hum. Good mid-range performer.
    • Holley Black (12-802-1): The Blue's higher-flow sibling. Rated for 130 GPH @ 14 PSI. Suitable for very serious carbureted builds, large single carbs, multiple carbs, or nitrous applications up to ~600 HP. Requires a strong regulator (Holley 12-807 recommended). Significantly louder than Blue/Carter pumps. Needs robust wiring.
    • Edelbrock 1791: Twin gear pump design. Very quiet operation, excellent flow characteristics (rated 130 GPH @ 6.5 PSI). Excellent vapor handling capability. Ideal for demanding street engines where quietness is valued. Requires its own specific mounting bracket.

  3. High-Performance & Race 350 Chevy (500HP+ - Carbureted, Blower/Nitrous):

    • Magnafuel ProStar 425 (625HP Carb/EFI): Serious high-flow gearotor pump. Capable of massive flow (rated 425 GPH @ 15 PSI Free Flow) for EFI or blown/nitrous/alcohol carb applications. Excellent filtration recommendations required. Needs dedicated robust wiring. Built for extreme duty.
    • Holley Dominator (12-320-7): Fuelab-based high-performance gear drive pump. Available in various GPH ratings (like 300 GPH, 450 GPH, 580 GPH). Engineered for extreme fuel demands of blown, injected, or high-horsepower naturally aspirated engines. Requires specific filters and stout electrical supply. Top-tier performance and reliability.

  4. 350 Chevy EFI Conversions (TBI, MPFI):

    • Walbro GSL392 / GSL393: Extremely popular high-pressure EFI pumps. Reliable, relatively affordable, compact. Widely used in OE applications and performance. Ratings vary by specific model (e.g., GSL392: ~255 LPH @ 40 PSI / ~67 GPH @ 40 PSI). Must be mounted in-tank. Essential for any modern EFI swap requiring consistent 40-60+ PSI. Widely used for LS swap fuel pump modules.
    • Aeromotive Phantom Stealth In-Tank Pump (18665): Complete retrofit in-tank system designed to fit inside original Chevy gas tanks (including classic models). Houses a high-pressure EFI pump (e.g., Walbro 340 LPH) within a baffled bucket for consistent fuel pickup even at low fuel levels. Excellent solution for clean, quiet, OEM-like EFI fuel delivery.
    • Holley HydraMat & Walbro Combo: Innovative solution using a fuel reservoir (HydraMat) paired with a Walbro EFI pump. The HydraMat acts as a large, self-sealing "sock" that covers the pump inlet and virtually eliminates fuel starvation issues in tanks lacking baffles, especially during acceleration or cornering. Excellent for muscle cars and hot rods with original tanks going EFI.

Essential Installation Guide: Putting it All Together Right

Proper installation is critical for safety, reliability, and performance. Cutting corners here is dangerous. Follow these steps meticulously:

  1. Safety First:

    • Disconnect Battery: ALWAYS disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting any work on the fuel system.
    • Work Outside: Perform the installation outdoors or in a well-ventilated area away from sparks and flames. Gasoline vapors are extremely explosive.
    • Relieve Fuel Pressure: If replacing an existing system, relieve fuel pressure at the carburetor/rail (use a rag) before disconnecting lines.
    • Control Fuel Spillage: Have absorbent pads and a container ready. Cover carpets/upholstery near the tank area.

  2. Removing the Old System:

    • Drain or siphon as much fuel as possible from the tank.
    • Disconnect the fuel filler neck, vent lines, and any electrical connections at the tank.
    • Support the tank securely and carefully lower it. Remove any remaining fuel lines.
    • Disconnect and remove the old mechanical pump from the engine block. Cover the pump opening on the timing cover to prevent debris entry. Replace the gasket.

  3. Fuel Tank Prep (If Applicable - In-Tank/EFI/Module Replacement):

    • Carefully remove the existing tank sender or pump module. Take pictures or notes of the wiring connections and how the lock ring/gasket fits.
    • If using a pre-made module (like Holley Hydramat or Aeromotive Phantom), follow the specific assembly instructions precisely. Ensure O-rings and seals are lubricated and seated properly. If building custom, use only materials rated for continuous submersion in gasoline.

  4. Pump Mounting:

    • In-Line Mounting: Select a location on the frame rail as close to the tank and as low as possible. It MUST be below the tank's fuel level. Protect it from road debris (consider a skid plate). Mount solidly using rubber-isolating clamps to minimize vibration transfer and noise. Ensure there's clearance for servicing the pump and filters later. Avoid mounting near hot exhaust pipes, moving parts, or areas prone to impact. Use appropriate mounting hardware. The pump inlet MUST be plumbed below the tank outlet for gravity feed. If the pump is mounted higher than the tank outlet, you MUST use a low-pressure "lift" pump (like a Carter P4594) or incorporate a siphon jet pump at the tank outlet to push fuel to the main pump.
    • In-Tank Mounting: Carefully lower the assembled sender/module/pump into the tank, ensuring the pickup/sock or HydraMat sits near the bottom but doesn't hit the floor. Tighten the lock ring securely using the proper tool. Ensure the tank ground wire connection is clean and tight.
    • Fuel Cell Mounting: Follow cell manufacturer and pump supplier instructions precisely regarding pickup tube location, bulkhead fittings, and pump mounting (internal/external). Prioritize gravity feed to pump inlet.

  5. Fuel Line Installation: CRITICAL!

    • Replace Old Lines: Seriously consider replacing ALL the fuel supply line from tank to engine. Old steel lines corrode inside, rubber hose degrades. Leaks are catastrophic. Using a kit or bending new line is highly recommended.
    • Material Choice:
      • Carbureted: Use SAE J30R9 rated A2 steel-braided hose for maximum safety and durability. NEVER use hose not rated for continuous fuel immersion! Standard rubber fuel injection hose (SAE J30R9) rated for ~50 PSI max is acceptable for low-pressure carb systems but lacks the abrasion resistance and longevity of braided.
      • EFI: YOU MUST USE FUEL INJECTION RATED HOSE. SAE J30R9 is the absolute minimum rating. For EFI pressures (60+ PSI), SAE J30R14 hose is strongly recommended (rated to 250 PSI). Steel-braided PTFE lines (AN fittings) are the gold standard for performance and safety at high pressures.
    • Size Matters: Use at least 3/8" ID (AN -6 equivalent) supply line. For high horsepower 350s (450HP+), stepping up to 1/2" ID (AN -8) supply line reduces flow restriction. Use 1/4" or 5/16" return line (if applicable).
    • AN Fittings: Highly recommended for leak-proof, professional results, especially with braided line. Requires flaring tool specific to AN fittings. Ensure fittings match hose size (-6AN for 3/8", -8AN for 1/2").
    • Routing & Support: Route lines AWAY from heat, exhaust, sharp edges, and moving parts. Use rubber-lined P-Clamps or similar to secure lines every 12-18 inches. Avoid tight bends; use pre-bent 45°/90° fittings where possible. Provide slack near the engine for vibration isolation.

  6. Fuel Filter Strategy:

    • Pre-Filter (Sump/Low Pressure): Mount a coarse filter (30-100 micron) between the tank and the pump inlet to protect the pump from large debris. Use hose barbs or AN fittings compatible with the inlet size. Common types are spin-on or cartridge. A see-through filter housing makes inspection easy. Essential for external pumps.
    • Post-Filter (High Pressure): Mount a finer filter (10 micron for carbs, 5-10 micron for EFI) after the pump but before the regulator (or injectors on EFI). This catches smaller contaminants that might clog jets, injectors, or the regulator. Use pressure-rated filter and hose. Regular replacement is crucial (every 12 months or as needed).

  7. Fuel Pressure Regulation (Absolute Necessity - Do NOT Skip This!)

    • Location: Mount the regulator close to the carburetor (carb setup) or near the end of the fuel rail (EFI). Follow regulator manufacturer instructions.
    • Reference Source: For carbureted applications, the regulator MUST connect via a reference line (small vacuum hose) to the intake manifold vacuum port. This helps maintain consistent pressure relative to intake vacuum/pressure. EFI regulators may have internal or external reference depending on design.
    • Return Line: Virtually all electric fuel pump systems REQUIRE a return line back to the tank. Without a return, pressure cannot be regulated, fuel will overheat recirculating in the pump, and pump life will be drastically shortened. The regulator "bleeds off" excess pressure/volume back to the tank via the return line. Plumb the return line securely back to the tank (top fitting if possible). Size appropriately (often 1/4" or 5/16").
    • Adjustment: Connect a quality liquid-filled fuel pressure gauge temporarily between the regulator and carb/rail. Start the engine and warm it up. Set the regulator to your target pressure (e.g., 6-7 PSI for carb, 43-60 PSI for EFI) with the vacuum reference line connected and at idle. Fine-tune if needed per engine behavior.

  8. Electrical System Installation: Vital for Reliability

    • Power Source: Run dedicated, fused power wiring (10 or 12-gauge minimum; follow pump manufacturer specs) directly from the battery positive terminal. Use an ANL or Maxi fuse holder rated for the pump's current draw plus margin.
    • Relay Control: Use a quality automotive relay (30/40 Amp). Trigger the relay coil from a switched ignition source capable of handling the relay's low current draw (e.g., ignition switch output). DO NOT run the pump directly off the ignition switch or oil pressure safety switch! The starter solenoid "S" terminal is a common trigger source if designed only to run while cranking/running.
    • Safety Switches (Highly Recommended):
      • Inertia Cut-Off Switch: Mounted securely to the vehicle frame, this switch automatically cuts power to the pump in the event of a collision. Mandatory safety item.
      • Oil Pressure Safety Switch: Wired to trigger the relay coil in parallel with the ignition source. Only allows the pump to run if the ignition is on and oil pressure is above a threshold (e.g., 5-8 PSI). Prevents the pump from running continuously if the engine isn't running after a crash. Ensure this switch is wired in parallel; it must not be the only trigger source. The Holley 12-810 is a popular combined relay/holder unit designed specifically for this.
    • Grounding: Secure a dedicated ground wire of the same gauge as the power wire directly from the pump body or its mounting bracket to a clean, bare metal chassis point or battery negative terminal. File paint off contact surfaces and use dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.

  9. Priming & Initial Pressure Check:

    • Re-check all fittings, hose clamps, fuel filter canisters, and connections.
    • Turn the ignition key to "Run" (without starting) – the pump should activate for a few seconds (if using a timed prime circuit controlled by ECU or relay) or continuously (if controlled by oil pressure switch only). Listen for pump operation. Observe the temporary gauge – pressure should build quickly to the set level and hold (may require starting the engine to check with vacuum connected).
    • Check meticulously for leaks at EVERY connection point, including pump body, fittings, filters, regulator, and tank seals. Repair ANY leak immediately. Leak = Danger.

  10. Final Adjustment & Test Drive:

    • Start the engine, let it warm up fully. Verify the fuel pressure gauge reading at idle and at various RPM snap-throttles (pressure should remain stable within 1-2 PSI for carbs, 3-5 PSI for EFI).
    • Inspect for leaks again under operating pressure.
    • Take a careful test drive, paying attention to throttle response, starting, and running at various speeds and loads. Listen for any unusual pump noise or system behavior.
    • Re-torque all hose clamps and fittings after the system has been pressurized and undergone heat cycles.

Troubleshooting Common Electric Fuel Pump Issues on Your 350 Chevy

Even well-installed systems can have hiccups. Here's how to diagnose:

  • Pump Doesn't Run:

    • Check Fuses: Start with the fuse on the pump's dedicated power wire. Replace if blown and investigate cause later.
    • Check Grounds: Verify the battery negative terminal and the pump's ground connection are clean, tight, and have good continuity.
    • Check Power at Relay:
      • Test for constant 12V+ at relay power terminal (terminal 30).
      • Test for switched 12V+ (Key ON) at relay trigger terminal (terminal 86).
      • Test ground for trigger coil (terminal 85).
      • Check relay output to pump (terminal 87) for 12V+ when triggered.
    • Check Safety Switches: Test continuity of the inertia switch (reset if triggered). Test oil pressure safety switch (should close above ~5 PSI oil pressure).
    • Direct Test: Disconnect pump power connector. Temporarily apply direct 12V+ and Ground from the battery to the pump. Does it run? If not, pump is likely bad (or wiring terminals corroded).

  • Pump Runs But No/Low Pressure:

    • Clogged Pre-Filter: Check the filter between the tank and pump. Replace if dirty.
    • Lift/Priming Issue: If the pump is mounted above the tank outlet without a lift pump or siphon jet, it cannot prime itself. Verify pump inlet position. Try temporarily filling the inlet hose/filter with gas.
    • Clogged Outlet Filter: Check the high-pressure filter after the pump.
    • Restrictive Line or Fitting: Pinch points? Excessive bends? Too small a line? Blockage?
    • Leak Between Tank and Pump: Air leak in supply path prevents pump from pulling fuel.
    • Failing Pump: Internal wear, clogged inlet sock (in-tank), stuck check valve.

  • Pressure Too High (Carb):

    • Regulator Fault/Adjustment: Check regulator function. Diaphragm leak? Spring bound? Stuck? Re-adjust.
    • Return Line Blocked/Restricted: Verify return line flows freely back to tank. Kinks? Clogs?
    • Regulator Reference Line: Ensure the reference line to intake is connected and clear (carb). Blocked reference prevents pressure reduction.
    • Pump Overwhelming System: Pump flow capacity significantly exceeds demand/return capacity.

  • Pressure Too Low:

    • Leak in Supply Path: Air leak before the pump.
    • Leak in High-Pressure Path: Leaking injector, fuel rail, hose, filter, or regulator. Smell gas.
    • Weak/Defective Pump: Unable to maintain flow against resistance.
    • Low Voltage at Pump: Test voltage at pump terminals while running. Low voltage causes low pressure/flow. Check wiring size, connections, relay terminals.
    • Clogged Pickup or Pre-Filter: Restricted flow into the pump.
    • Regulator Misadjusted or Faulty: Diaphragm leak? Spring weak? Return stuck open? Re-adjust/inspect.
    • Insufficient Pump Capacity: Pump is undersized for the application.

  • Pulsating Pressure Gauge:

    • Check Valve Failure (Pump): Can cause pressure drop and surging. Internal pump issue.
    • Fuel Level Too Low: Exposed pickup sock causing air ingestion.
    • Air Leak Before Pump: Causes pump to pulsate as it pulls air/fuel mixture.
    • Weak Battery/Charging System: Low system voltage causes erratic pump speed.

  • Excessive Pump Noise:

    • Mounting: Ensure solid mounting with rubber isolation. Loose mounts vibrate against chassis.
    • Air in System: Check for leaks causing cavitation/vapor bubbles inside pump.
    • Low Fuel Level: Running below 1/4 tank can expose in-tank pump motors, causing louder operation.
    • Failing Pump: Bearings wearing out. Gearrotor pumps are typically quieter than roller vane.

Maintaining Your Electric Fuel Pump System

Ensure long-term reliability with simple practices:

  1. Use Quality Fuel: Avoid cheap, low-octane, or stale fuel. Ethanol blends absorb water, which can degrade components and reduce lubricity for the pump.
  2. Change Fuel Filters Regularly: Pre-Filter: Every 6-12 months. High-Pressure Filter: Every 12 months or per manufacturer instructions. More often if fuel quality is questionable.
  3. Keep Fuel Tank Reasonably Full: Minimizes air space for vapor formation and prevents uncovering in-tank pickup points (especially important in unbaffled tanks). Aim to not run below 1/4 tank routinely.
  4. Inspect System Annually:
    • Visually check ALL fuel lines (hose and hardline) for cracks, abrasion, chafing, leaks.
    • Verify all hose clamps and AN fittings are secure.
    • Clean electrical connections (pump, relay, battery) and apply dielectric grease.
    • Listen for changes in pump whine or new vibrations indicating wear or looseness.
    • Check fuel pressure periodically with a gauge.
  5. Address Issues Immediately: Never ignore leaks, unusual noises, drivability problems, or pressure fluctuations. Diagnose and repair promptly.

Conclusion: Unleash Your 350 Chevy's True Potential

Swapping to the appropriate electric fuel pump for your 350 Chevy is a foundational performance upgrade. It overcomes the mechanical pump's inherent limitations, providing the consistent, high-volume fuel delivery essential for reliable performance and unlocking your engine's potential. Whether aiming for smoother hot-starts in traffic, supporting a powerful carbureted build, enabling a modern EFI conversion, or chasing maximum horsepower, the right pump and professional installation are paramount. By understanding the key specifications, selecting a proven pump, and meticulously installing the system with proper filters, regulators, and electrical safeguards, you transform the fuel delivery system from a potential bottleneck into a pillar of strength and reliability for your legendary 350 Chevy. The tangible benefits—strong starts, consistent throttle response, freedom from vapor lock, and the confidence to push the accelerator—make this an investment that pays dividends every time you turn the key.

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