How to Choose, Maintain, and Upgrade 2013 Ford F-150 Headlights: A Complete Guide for Owners

If you own a 2013 Ford F-150, understanding your vehicle’s headlights is critical for safety, performance, and even resale value. The 2013 F-150—America’s best-selling truck for decades—was available with multiple headlight configurations depending on its trim level, factory options, and regional specifications. Whether you’re dealing with dimming lights, a burned-out bulb, or simply want to upgrade for better visibility, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know: from identifying your factory setup to troubleshooting common issues, maintaining your headlights for longevity, and legally upgrading them for improved performance. By the end, you’ll have the knowledge to keep your F-150’s headlights functioning at their best, no matter the driving conditions.

First: What Type of Headlights Does Your 2013 Ford F-150 Have?

The 2013 Ford F-150’s headlight system varies based on its trim level (e.g., XL, XLT, Lariat, King Ranch, Platinum) and optional packages. Ford designed the truck to cater to both workhorse and lifestyle buyers, so headlight setups range from basic halogen to premium LED options. Here’s how to identify yours:

• Halogen Headlights (Most Common): Found in base XL trims and work-focused models, these use traditional tungsten filaments encased in halogen gas. They’re affordable, easy to replace, but produce a yellowish light with a shorter range (typically 200–300 feet on low beam). Look for a “HALOGEN” label on the headlight housing or a bulb number starting with “H15” (the standard size for 2013 F-150 halogens).

• Xenon (HID) Headlights (Optional on Higher Trims): Available on XLT, Lariat, and higher trims with the “Premium” or “Towing” package, HID headlights use high-intensity discharge technology. They produce a brighter, whiter light (up to 300–400 feet range) and last longer than halogens (2,000–3,000 hours vs. 500–1,000 hours). You’ll recognize them by their larger, cylindrical bulb housings and a “HID” or “XENON” badge.

• LED Headlights (Rare, but Available on Top Trims): Only included in the 2013 F-150 King Ranch, Platinum, or Limited editions (and some custom-order models), LED headlights were a premium option. They use light-emitting diodes, offering instant full brightness, energy efficiency, and a modern white light (up to 500 feet range). LED bulbs are smaller and often integrated into the headlight assembly, making them harder to replace without specialized tools.

To confirm your headlight type, check your owner’s manual (Section 3: Lighting) or look at the bulb itself—if it’s a screw-in H15, it’s halogen; if it’s a plug-in HID capsule, it’s xenon; if it’s a low-profile LED module, it’s LED.

Common 2013 F-150 Headlight Problems and How to Fix Them

Even the most reliable vehicles develop headlight issues over time. Here are the top problems F-150 owners report, along with step-by-step solutions:

1. Headlights Won’t Turn On (Complete Failure)

Likely Causes: Blown fuse, faulty headlight switch, broken wiring, or a dead bulb (in rare cases).
Fix It:

• Check the Fuse First: The 2013 F-150 uses two fuse boxes—one under the dashboard (driver’s side) and one in the engine compartment. Refer to your manual for the headlight fuse locations (typically labeled “HEAD LAMP” or “LOW BEAM/HIGH BEAM”). Use a fuse puller to remove the relevant fuse and inspect it for a broken metal filament. Replace with a fuse of the same amperage (usually 15A or 20A).
• Test the Headlight Switch: If the fuse is good, turn the ignition to “ON” (not start) and toggle the headlight switch. Use a multimeter to check for power at the switch terminals (refer to a wiring diagram for your specific model year). If there’s no power, the switch may need replacement (available at auto parts stores for $20–$50).
• Inspect Wiring: Corroded or frayed wires near the headlight connectors or under the frame can cause failures. Trace the wires from the fuse box to the headlights, looking for damage. Clean corroded connections with electrical contact cleaner and wrap exposed wires in heat-shrink tubing.

2. Headlights Are Dim (Low Beam or High Beam)

Likely Causes: Worn-out bulbs, dirty lenses, misaligned beams, or failing ballasts (for HID models).
Fix It:

• Replace the Bulb: Halogen bulbs degrade over time—even if they don’t “burn out,” their output drops by 30–50% after 1,000 hours. For H15 halogens, buy a quality replacement (e.g., Sylvania SilverStar Ultra, Philips X-tremeVision) and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to avoid breaking the glass. For HID bulbs, replace both at the same time (they degrade evenly) and ensure the ballast (the electronic control unit) is functioning (test with a multimeter for 12V input and 8–12kV output).
• Clean the Lenses: Road grime, bugs, and oxidation can block up to 70% of light output. Use a headlight restoration kit (3M, Meguiar’s) to remove yellowing and scratches. Avoid household cleaners like Windex—they can damage the plastic. For severe oxidation, sand the lens with 2,000-grit sandpaper, then polish with a plastic restorer.
• Adjust the Beam Aim: Misaligned headlights are a safety hazard and often a result of hitting potholes or uneven loading. Park your F-150 25 feet from a wall, turn on low beams, and adjust the vertical and horizontal aim screws (located on the headlight housing) until the top of the beam is 2 inches below the wall’s centerline.

3. Headlights Flicker or Turn Off Intermittently

Likely Causes: Loose connections, a failing alternator (causing voltage fluctuations), or a bad relay.
Fix It:

• Tighten Connections: Unplug the headlight connectors (near the headlights and in the engine bay) and inspect for corrosion. Use dielectric grease to coat the terminals and reinsert them firmly.
• Test the Alternator: A failing alternator can cause voltage spikes or drops. Use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage while the engine runs—at idle, it should be 13.8–14.8V. Below 13V means the alternator isn’t charging properly; above 15V indicates a faulty voltage regulator.
• Replace the Relay: The headlight relay (located in the under-dash fuse box) can wear out. Swap it with a known-good relay (e.g., the horn relay, which is often the same size) to test. If the headlights stabilize, replace the relay ($10–$20).

4. Water or Fog Inside the Headlight Housing

Likely Causes: Cracked seals, a damaged vent tube, or a loose gasket.
Fix It:

• Inspect the Seals: The headlight housing has rubber gaskets around the edges and a vent tube that equalizes pressure. Over time, these can crack or dry out. Remove the headlight assembly (4–6 bolts) and check the gaskets for splits. Replace with OEM or aftermarket seals (e.g., Morimoto) to prevent water ingress.
• Clear the Vent Tube: The vent tube (a small plastic hose) can get clogged with debris, trapping moisture inside. Blow compressed air through the tube or use a small wire to dislodge blockages. If the tube is cracked, replace it ($5–$10).

How to Maintain Your 2013 F-150 Headlights for Longevity

Proactive maintenance is key to avoiding costly repairs. Here’s a year-round routine:

Monthly Checks

• Clean the Lenses: Wipe the headlight covers with a microfiber cloth and a mild detergent (e.g., dish soap diluted with water). Rinse thoroughly to remove residue.
• Test All Modes: Turn on low beams, high beams, fog lights (if equipped), and parking lights to ensure all functions work.

Every 6 Months

• Inspect Bulbs and Sockets: Remove the bulbs (after turning off the ignition and waiting for them to cool) and check for corrosion on the contacts. Apply dielectric grease to the sockets to prevent future issues.
• Check the Fuse Box: Look for loose fuses or signs of overheating (melting plastic, discoloration). Tighten any loose connections.

Annually

• Adjust Beam Aim: As mentioned earlier, misalignment is common. Use a professional alignment tool (available at auto parts stores for rent) for precision.
• Seal the Housing: Apply a bead of silicone sealant around the headlight gaskets to reinforce waterproofing (avoid petroleum-based products—they degrade rubber).

Upgrading Your 2013 F-150 Headlights: What You Need to Know

If your factory headlights are underperforming, upgrading is a popular option. However, it’s important to balance performance, legality, and cost. Here are your choices:

Option 1: Upgrade Halogens to High-Output Halogens

Pros: Affordable ($15–$30 per bulb), easy to install, retains factory housing.
Cons: Limited brightness gain (10–20% more light), still yellowish light.
Best For: Budget-conscious owners who want a quick improvement.
Tips: Choose bulbs with a “blue-coated” or “Xtreme” label (e.g., Philips XtremeVision) for whiter light. Ensure they’re DOT-approved to avoid legal issues.

Option 2: Install HID Conversion Kits

Pros: Brighter (2–3x more light than halogens), whiter color (4,300K–6,000K), longer lifespan (2,000–3,000 hours).
Cons: More expensive ($100–$300 per kit), requires modifying the headlight housing (drilling, wiring), may not be street-legal in some states.
Best For: Towing, off-roading, or owners willing to tackle installation.
Tips: Buy a kit with a built-in ballast (simpler installation) and stick to 5,000K or lower (higher color temperatures are illegal in many areas). Test for glare—you don’t want to blind other drivers.

Option 3: Retrofit LED Bulbs

Pros: Most energy-efficient (uses 30% less power than halogens), instant full brightness, long lifespan (50,000+ hours), modern white light.
Cons: Higher upfront cost ($150–$500 per bulb), may require a “canbus adapter” to prevent error codes, not all housings fit LEDs properly.
Best For: Tech-savvy owners prioritizing efficiency and style.
Tips: Choose plug-and-play LEDs (no wiring needed) and verify they’re designed for your specific headlight type (halogen vs. HID housing). Avoid cheap “universal” LEDs—they often cause glare or flickering.

Legal Considerations

Before upgrading, check your state’s vehicle code (Title 49 CFR Part 571 in the U.S.). Most states require:

• Low beams to emit white light with a color temperature ≤ 4,300K (some allow up to 6,000K).
• High beams to emit white or amber light.
• No excessive glare (tested with a photometer at 0 degrees vertical and ±8 degrees horizontal).
  When in doubt, consult a certified automotive electrician or your local DMV.

Final Thoughts: Keep Your 2013 F-150 Safe and Visible

Your 2013 Ford F-150’s headlights are more than just accessories—they’re a critical safety feature. Whether you’re dealing with a burned-out bulb, dimming lights, or want to upgrade for better performance, this guide has given you the tools to address the issue. Remember: regular maintenance prevents most problems, and when in doubt, consult a professional. By taking care of your headlights, you’re not just preserving your truck’s functionality—you’re ensuring safer roads for everyone.

Now, grab your owner’s manual, inspect those headlights, and get to work. Your F-150 (and fellow drivers) will thank you.