How to Replace a 1999 Ford Contour Fuel Pump: Step-by-Step DIY Guide

Replacing the fuel pump on your 1999 Ford Contour is a challenging but achievable DIY project, often necessary when experiencing symptoms like engine sputtering, loss of power under load, difficulty starting, or the engine failing to start at all. The most efficient and safest method involves removing the rear seat bottom to access the fuel pump assembly through an access panel in the floor, eliminating the need to drop the entire fuel tank. This guide provides detailed, step-by-step instructions based on standard automotive repair procedures, focusing on safety and practicality for the DIY enthusiast tackling the 1999 Ford Contour fuel pump replacement.

Understanding Symptoms and Confirming Failure
A failing fuel pump rarely stops working instantly without warning. Recognizing early symptoms is key. The most common indicator for 1999 Contour owners is the engine cranking normally but refusing to start, especially if it’s been sitting or after running low on fuel. You might also experience sudden loss of power while driving, particularly uphill or under acceleration, engine sputtering or hesitation, surging at highway speeds, or unusually loud whining or buzzing sounds coming from the rear seat area. While these symptoms can point to other issues like a clogged fuel filter (located under the car on the driver's side frame rail on 1999 Contours) or a faulty fuel pump relay (found in the engine compartment fuse box), a systematic approach is essential.

Start with simpler checks. Verify engine codes using an OBD-II scanner; codes like P0171 (System Too Lean Bank 1), P0230 (Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction), or P0190 (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit) can be fuel system related. Locate the schrader valve test port on the fuel rail (under the hood, driver's side, near the intake manifold). Use a standard fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure with the key turned to the "ON" position (engine off). Healthy pressure for the 1999 Contour is typically between 35-45 PSI. If you get no pressure, or significantly low pressure, the fuel pump, its relay, fuse (underhood fuse box), or inertia shutoff switch (located on the passenger side kick panel inside the car) are prime suspects. Listen carefully near the rear seat when turning the key to "ON"; you should hear the pump run for 1-2 seconds to prime the system. Silence often confirms pump or electrical circuit failure. Always test electrical power and ground at the pump connector before condemning the pump itself.

Essential Safety Preparations and Precautions
Fuel systems demand extreme caution due to fire and explosion hazards. Never attempt this job near open flames, sparks, or while smoking. Work in a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors or in a garage with the door open. Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves throughout the process. Fuel vapors are toxic; avoid breathing them unnecessarily.

  • Relieve Fuel Pressure: Start only after the engine has cooled down. Locate the fuel pump fuse (often labeled as Fuel Pump or FP, check the owner's manual or fuse box lid) in the underhood fuse/relay box. Start the engine. While the engine is running, pull the fuel pump fuse. The engine will run until fuel pressure is depleted and then stall. Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds to ensure all pressure is released. Alternatively, connect the fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and carefully relieve pressure into an approved container using the gauge's bleed valve. Wipe any spilled fuel immediately.
  • Disconnect the Battery: This is non-negotiable. Disconnect the NEGATIVE battery cable first to eliminate electrical sparks near fuel vapors. Secure the cable away from the battery post.
  • Gather Tools: Ensure you have all necessary tools before starting:
    • Socket wrench set (metric)
    • Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips)
    • Pliers (standard and needle-nose)
    • Torx driver set (size T20 often needed for access cover screws)
    • Panel removal tools or plastic pry tools
    • Fuel line disconnect tools (specifically for the Ford 5/16" and 3/8" quick-connect fittings under the access cover - these are typically plastic or metal tools shaped like a collar)
    • New fuel pump assembly (OE replacement highly recommended for fit and longevity)
    • Replacement O-ring seals for fuel feed and return lines (often included with pump)
    • Small container for residual fuel
    • Shop towels or rags
    • Brake cleaner or fuel-safe parts cleaner
  • Prepare Containers: Have approved gasoline storage containers ready. Keep a fire extinguisher rated for Class B (flammable liquids) fires within easy reach.

Step-by-Step Removal and Replacement (Through Rear Seat Access)

  1. Access the Rear Seat Bottom: Move the front seats forward for maximum rear footwell space. The rear seat bottom cushion is held in place by spring-loaded clips at the front edge. Firmly grasp the front of the cushion near the center console and near the door sills. Pull straight upwards with significant force to disengage the clips. Lift the cushion up and out of the car. Set it aside safely. You will now see the carpeted floor of the rear seat area.
  2. Locate the Fuel Pump Access Cover: Peel back the carpet covering the center tunnel area of the rear floorboard. You will find a large metal panel screwed down, typically oval or rectangular in shape. This is the fuel pump access cover.
  3. Remove Access Cover Screws: Remove the screws securing the access cover plate. These are often Torx-head screws (T20 size is common). Keep track of them. Carefully lift the cover straight up. Be ready for a small amount of residual gasoline smell or vapor. Visually inspect the pump assembly and wiring below.
  4. Disconnect Electrical Connectors: Identify the electrical connector(s) attached to the top of the fuel pump module assembly. This may be one large connector or two smaller ones (one for the pump, one for the level sender). Squeeze or lift the locking tab(s) and carefully unplug the connector(s). Use care, as connectors and wiring harnesses become brittle with age.
  5. Identify Fuel Lines: You will see two metal fuel lines leading into the top of the assembly: the larger diameter fuel FEED line (coming from the tank to the pump inlet) and the smaller diameter fuel RETURN line. Some assemblies might also have a vapor return line; consult your new pump assembly's instructions for clarification on line identification.
  6. Disconnect Fuel Lines (CRITICAL STEP): This is the most crucial and often challenging part. Ford's fuel lines use quick-connect fittings with plastic locking collars. Select the appropriate fuel line disconnect tool size (usually a plastic set with 5/16" and 3/8" size colors) for the feed and return lines. Push the tool completely down onto the fitting where the metal line enters the plastic collar surrounding the nipple on the pump module. While firmly holding the tool in place, push down on the collar surrounding the metal line towards the pump module with your other hand (this releases the locking tabs inside the fitting). With the collar depressed and the tool holding it in the "release" position, pull the metal fuel line straight back out of the fitting on the pump module. Do not twist or bend the metal lines. Repeat for the other line(s). Be prepared for a small amount of residual fuel to escape. Have rags ready. Place shop towels or rags underneath to catch drips.
  7. Remove the Pump Assembly Locking Ring: Around the circumference of the fuel pump mounting flange is a large, threaded plastic locking ring. This ring secures the entire pump assembly to the fuel tank. This ring can be very tight and prone to cracking. Use a large pair of adjustable pliers, channel locks, or a specialized fuel pump lock ring removal tool. Place the tips of your tool into the notches on the locking ring. Turn the ring firmly counter-clockwise to loosen it. Work slowly and carefully. Once loosened, unscrew the ring completely by hand. Remove it and set it aside, noting its orientation (there's often a ridge indicating the top).
  8. Lift Out the Fuel Pump Module: Gently lift the entire fuel pump module assembly straight up and out of the fuel tank. Angle it slightly as needed to clear the opening. Avoid hitting the fuel level float arm. Have a drain pan or container ready beneath it as it will be covered in gasoline.
  9. Drain and Prepare Old Assembly: Hold the old assembly over your drain pan and allow any remaining fuel to drain off in a well-ventilated area away from sparks or ignition sources. Take this opportunity to inspect the condition of the tank opening seal on the assembly.
  10. Prepare the New Assembly: Thoroughly clean the seal mounting surface on the new assembly's flange. Install the brand new O-ring seal provided with the new fuel pump assembly onto the groove on the pump module flange. Lubricate this new O-ring generously with a light coating of clean, petroleum jelly or engine oil. NEVER reuse the old O-ring. Verify the new assembly visually matches the old one. Note the orientation of the level float arm.
  11. Install the New Pump Module: Carefully lower the new fuel pump assembly into the fuel tank opening, aligning the electrical connectors and the feed/return ports correctly. Ensure the float arm does not get bent. Press the assembly straight down firmly until the flange seats completely on the tank surface. Ensure the O-ring is properly seated all around the flange lip.
  12. Install the Locking Ring: Place the locking ring back onto the threads of the tank opening. Hand-tighten it clockwise as far as you can. Then, using your pliers or tool, tighten the ring firmly clockwise. It needs to be snug to compress the O-ring but avoid over-tightening which can crack the ring or damage the tank flange. Aim for a similar tightness to how the old one was. Ensure the locking ring notches end up in a position accessible for future removal if needed.
  13. Reconnect Fuel Lines: Connect the fuel feed and return lines to their respective ports on the pump module. Push each metal line straight into the pump module's corresponding fitting until you hear/feel a distinct "click". This indicates the locking collar has engaged. Pull firmly on the fuel line to verify it is locked in place. Ensure the feed line (larger) and return line (smaller) are connected to the correct ports on the pump module.
  14. Reconnect Electrical Connectors: Plug the electrical connector(s) back onto the pump module assembly. Ensure they click firmly into place and locking tabs are secure.
  15. Reinstall the Access Cover: Clean the sealing surface around the opening if needed. Replace the metal access cover over the pump assembly. Reinstall and tighten all the cover plate screws securely. Smooth the carpet back over the access cover and secure it properly.
  16. Reinstall the Rear Seat Bottom: Position the seat cushion so the front clips align with the sockets on the floor. Press down firmly and evenly along the entire front edge until the clips snap securely into place. Check that the cushion feels stable and doesn't lift at the corners.

Reconnection, Priming, Testing, and Initial Startup

  1. Reconnect Battery: Reconnect the negative battery cable to its terminal. Tighten securely.
  2. Prime the Fuel System: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start the engine). You should hear the new fuel pump run for approximately 1-2 seconds to build pressure in the system. Repeat this step 2-3 times to ensure adequate fuel pressure is built before attempting to start.
  3. Initial Leak Check: Before starting the engine, perform a visual and smell check for fuel leaks around the access cover area. Pay particular attention to the fuel line connections and the pump module flange.
  4. Start the Engine: Attempt to start the engine. It may crank slightly longer than usual as fuel pressure builds fully in the rails. If it starts, let it idle. Carefully inspect the access area and under the hood (near the filter and injector rails) again for any signs of fuel leakage. Sniff for fuel vapors.
  5. Monitor Performance: Observe engine idle quality. Listen for any unusual noises from the pump. Take the car for a short, cautious test drive. Pay attention to acceleration, power delivery, and ensure there are no stumbles or hesitation. The issues experienced before the replacement should now be resolved.

Important Notes and Troubleshooting Tips

  • Assembly Match: Ensure the replacement fuel pump assembly is the exact match for your 1999 Contour trim level (LX, SE) and engine size (I4 2.0L Zetec or V6 2.5L Duratec). Pay attention to connector types and port sizes/positions on the module top when ordering.
  • Connector Condition: Inspect the wiring harness connector carefully. If pins or the plastic connector body are damaged, cracked, or brittle, replace them. Corrosion is rare but possible; clean contacts with electrical contact cleaner if needed.
  • Locking Ring Difficulty: Older plastic locking rings can become very brittle. Work slowly and deliberately. If it cracks, replacement locking rings are available at auto parts stores. An aluminum aftermarket ring is a more durable option.
  • O-ring is Crucial: Using the old O-ring or improper installation of the new one is the number one cause of leaks after this repair. Ensure it's new, properly lubricated, and seated in the groove correctly without twists or nicks.
  • Fuel Line Disconnect Tools: Use the correct size disconnect tool. Pushing the collar towards the module while inserting the tool is key. Avoid using screwdrivers or picks which can damage the locking collar. If a metal line fitting is stubborn, carefully spray penetrating oil onto the connection and wait before trying again.
  • Pump Inlet Strainer: While replacing, notice the condition of the inlet strainer (sock) on the pump assembly. If the old one was clogged, it might indicate tank sediment. Consider having the tank cleaned if severe, but usually, replacing the entire assembly solves the problem.
  • No Start After Replacement: If the engine cranks but won't start:
    • Double-check all electrical connections are fully plugged in.
    • Verify all fuel lines are connected to the correct ports.
    • Check inertia shutoff switch status (reset if tripped).
    • Check fuse and relay location/operation (swap with a known good relay like the horn relay to test).
    • Recheck for fuel pressure using the schrader valve.
  • Leaks After Replacement: If you detect a fuel smell or see liquid fuel after starting:
    • Turn off the engine immediately.
    • Inspect the O-ring seal under the pump module flange.
    • Check all fuel line connections.
    • Ensure the locking ring is fully tightened.
    • Do not drive the car until all leaks are definitively repaired.

Preventative Maintenance

  • Fuel Quality: Using good quality fuel can help extend pump life. Avoid consistently running the tank down to "E."
  • Filter Replacement: While not as critical on the 1999 Contour as some vehicles (the in-tank strainer is the primary filter), the external fuel filter (located on the driver's side frame rail) should be replaced periodically according to your maintenance schedule (often every 30,000-50,000 miles). Replace it if you suspect contamination contributed to pump failure.

Successfully replacing the fuel pump in your 1999 Ford Contour requires patience, attention to detail, and strict adherence to safety procedures. By understanding the symptoms, preparing thoroughly, methodically following the steps for removal and installation via the rear access cover, and carefully conducting post-installation checks, you can restore reliable fuel delivery and extend the life of your vehicle without the expense of a major shop repair bill. Always prioritize safety and use OE or high-quality replacement parts. If doubts arise during the process, consulting a qualified mechanic is the safest course of action.

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