Mechanical Fuel Pump SBC 350: The Reliable Heartbeat of Your Classic Small-Block Chevy

For countless Chevrolet small-block 350 V8 engines powering classic cars, trucks, and hot rods, the mechanical fuel pump remains the preferred, reliable, and cost-effective method for delivering gasoline from the tank to the carburetor. While modern engines overwhelmingly use electric pumps controlled by complex engine management systems, the fundamental simplicity and rugged dependability of the mechanical fuel pump make it the ideal choice for the SBC 350 in carbureted applications. Understanding how it works, how to identify the correct one, how to install it properly, and how to troubleshoot common issues is essential knowledge for any owner or mechanic working on these iconic engines. Choosing the right pump, installing it correctly, and performing basic maintenance ensures decades of trouble-free operation for these legendary powerplants.

Understanding the Mechanical Fuel Pump SBC 350

The mechanical fuel pump is an engine-driven diaphragm pump. It mounts directly to the engine block, typically near the timing cover on the passenger side. A dedicated pushrod, actuated by an eccentric lobe on the engine's camshaft, provides the pumping motion. As the engine rotates, the camshaft lobe pushes the pushrod up and down. This pushrod presses on a lever arm inside the pump. The lever arm, in turn, flexes a flexible rubber diaphragm located inside the pump body.

This diaphragm movement creates suction and pressure cycles. On the suction stroke, the diaphragm pulls away from the pump's inlet chamber, creating a vacuum that draws fuel from the fuel tank through the inlet line and a one-way check valve into the pump body. On the pressure stroke, the diaphragm pushes towards the outlet side, closing the inlet valve, opening the outlet valve, and forcing the fuel out towards the carburetor. This continuous cycle delivers a steady supply of fuel at the relatively low pressure required by carburetors, usually between 4 and 7 pounds per square inch.

The simplicity is key. The pump has few moving parts: essentially the lever arm, diaphragm, two check valves (inlet and outlet), and associated springs and gaskets. There are no electrical connections, no relays, no complicated wiring. Its operation is entirely mechanical, synchronized precisely with the engine's rotation. This direct link to the engine means the pump delivers fuel precisely proportional to engine speed and demand – as engine RPM increases, so does the pump's output. This inherent self-regulation is perfectly suited to carbureted engines.

Why Choose a Mechanical Pump for Your SBC 350?

For owners of classic vehicles equipped with carburetors, the mechanical fuel pump offers distinct advantages that make it the obvious choice over retrofitting an electric pump for the SBC 350.

  • Simplicity and Reliability: This is the biggest selling point. With minimal components and no reliance on electricity beyond the ignition system for the engine itself (the pump works as long as the engine is turning), mechanical pumps are incredibly robust. They are known for providing years, even decades, of trouble-free service with virtually zero maintenance. Failure is relatively uncommon compared to the potential points of failure in an electric pump system (pump itself, wiring, relay, fuse, filter clog causing pump burnout).
  • Cost-Effectiveness: A quality mechanical fuel pump for the SBC 350 is significantly less expensive than a complete electric fuel pump system (pump, wiring harness, relay, safety switches, filters, mounting hardware). Installation is generally quicker and less complex, saving on labor if you're not doing it yourself.
  • Originality and Authenticity: For restorations aiming for period-correctness or maintaining the engine bay's factory appearance, the mechanical pump is essential. It's what the engine was designed with and what came from the factory. Using an electric pump, unless hidden, often detracts from the original aesthetic.
  • Self-Regulating Flow: The direct mechanical linkage to the camshaft means pump output automatically increases as engine speed increases. This matches fuel delivery perfectly to the carburetor's needs under varying loads and RPMs without needing complex fuel pressure regulators. It delivers just enough pressure for the carburetor's float needle valve – typically 5-7 PSI.
  • Safety: While properly installed electric pumps are safe, mechanical pumps have an inherent safety advantage because they stop pumping fuel the instant the engine stops turning. A leak in an electric pump system could potentially continue pumping fuel even with the engine off if a relay or inertia switch fails. This passive shutdown is a valuable feature.

Identifying the Correct Mechanical Fuel Pump for Your SBC 350

Not all mechanical fuel pumps are identical, even for the same engine family like the SBC 350. Selecting the correct one is crucial for proper fitment, fuel delivery, and compatibility with your vehicle's configuration. Several key factors differentiate pumps:

  1. Fuel Inlet/Outlet Size and Orientation: The diameter and thread pitch of the fuel line fittings vary. Common sizes are 3/8-inch, 5/16-inch, or even 1/4-inch inverted flare. Crucially, the direction the inlet and outlet fittings point is vital for clearing engine components, accessories (like the alternator bracket), and allowing fuel lines to route cleanly without kinking. Pumps have configurations like "Front Inlet / Top Outlet", "Side Inlet / Top Outlet", "Rear Inlet / Top Outlet", etc. You must match the orientation your specific engine and chassis require for proper hose routing. Sometimes the inlet size/position differs between pumps for gasoline and pumps designed for alcohol fuels.
  2. Fuel Pressure Rating: While all SBC mechanical pumps operate within the low-pressure range needed for carburetors, the specific output pressure can vary slightly. Most stock replacement pumps deliver 5.5-6.5 PSI, which is ideal for common quadrajet or Holley carburetors. High-performance pumps designed for racing might deliver slightly higher pressure (up to 8-9 PSI) to combat fuel starvation under extreme conditions or supply thirsty high-flow carburetors. It's important not to exceed the pressure your carburetor's needle and seat can handle; too much pressure can force fuel past the needle valve and cause flooding.
  3. Inclusion of Vapor Return Port: Many later model SBC applications, particularly in the 1970s and early 80s to combat vapor lock issues with changing fuel formulations, featured pumps with a third port, often labeled as a "vapor return" or "return line" port. This port connects back to the fuel tank via a dedicated return line. Its purpose is to allow a small, continuous stream of fuel to circulate back to the tank. This constant flow helps prevent fuel from becoming excessively hot and vaporizing in the lines or pump before reaching the carburetor (vapor lock). If your original pump had this port and the system included a return line, it's highly recommended to use a replacement pump with the vapor return feature to maintain that functionality.
  4. Pump Arm Design: The pump lever arm that contacts the camshaft pushrod must be the correct profile and length to ensure proper operation and fuel pressure. While most stock replacement pumps share a common profile, some high-performance pumps may use a different arm design optimized for higher lift or different lobe profiles. Generally, a quality stock replacement pump will have the correct arm.
  5. Material and Construction: Higher quality pumps typically use more durable materials for the body (cast iron or robust composite), lever arm (steel, potentially heat-treated), and diaphragm (nitrile or viton rubber resistant to modern fuels, including ethanol blends). Check diaphragm material compatibility with ethanol (E10+), which is now standard.

Essential Tools and Supplies for the Job

Replacing a mechanical fuel pump on an SBC 350 is a straightforward task manageable for most home mechanics with basic tools. Here’s what you’ll need:

  • New Mechanical Fuel Pump: Ensure it's the correct pump for your application (orientation, pressure, return port, etc.).
  • New Fuel Pump Gasket(s): Always use new gaskets. A single gasket between the pump body and engine block is standard. Some pumps or blocks may use a thin spacer requiring gaskets on both sides – verify your specific setup. Quality composition or cork/rubber gaskets are common.
  • Fuel Pump Pushrod: While not always needed for replacement, it's wise to have a spare pushrod on hand. They can wear, bend, or become stuck. Never install a new pump without checking the pushrod first! Removal requires the pump to be off.
  • Basic Hand Tools:
    • Wrenches: Combination wrenches are best, typically 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", and 9/16". Sockets of these sizes (3/8" drive) with extensions.
    • Ratchet and Extensions: A 3/8" drive ratchet and potentially a short extension. Stubby wrenches are very helpful in tight spaces.
    • Pliers: Needle nose pliers for hose clamps and maneuvering fuel lines.
  • Fuel Line Disconnect Tools (if applicable): If your fuel lines use GM quick-connect fittings (more common on later SBC 350s with return lines), you'll need the appropriate size disconnect tool.
  • Screwdrivers: Standard flathead and Phillips for hose clamps and potentially securing wiring away from the work area.
  • Container: A small drain pan or container to catch spilled fuel.
  • Shop Towels/Rags: For cleanup and managing fuel spills.
  • Safety Glasses and Gloves: Essential eye protection and chemical-resistant gloves.
  • Thread Sealant (Potentially): If the new pump uses pipe thread fittings, a small amount of fuel-resistant thread sealant (PTFE tape or liquid paste) on the threads is required for the fittings. Never use sealant on the pump-to-block mounting bolts.
  • Brake Cleaner or Contact Cleaner: To clean the mounting surface on the engine block thoroughly.

Step-by-Step Removal of the Old Mechanical Fuel Pump SBC 350

  1. Preparation and Safety: Work in a well-ventilated area. Disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery. Relieve fuel system pressure by loosening the fuel filler cap. Place shop towels or rags under the work area to catch any spilled fuel.
  2. Disconnect Fuel Lines: Identify the inlet line (coming from the tank) and the outlet line (going to the carburetor). If your pump has a vapor return line, note that as well. Loosen the hose clamps securing the lines to the pump fittings. Gently twist and pull the hoses off the fittings. If equipped with GM quick-connects, use the appropriate tool to disconnect them. Be prepared for some fuel to drip out. Plug the open ends of the lines or bend them upwards to minimize fuel leakage if the tank is above the engine. Plug or cap the fittings on the old pump if leaks occur.
  3. Remove Mounting Bolts: The pump is typically secured by two bolts threaded into the engine block. These are usually standard hex-head bolts. Using the appropriate wrench or socket (commonly 3/8" or 7/16") and ratchet, remove both bolts completely. Note that one bolt might be shorter than the other. Keep track of them.
  4. Remove the Old Pump: Once the bolts are out, gently but firmly rock and pull the pump straight away from the engine block. It will come free, but there is a pushrod inside the block bore that the pump arm rests on. Be mindful of this pushrod; it will remain inside the block initially.
  5. Remove and Inspect the Pushrod: Carefully extract the fuel pump pushrod from its bore in the engine block. It's a solid metal rod, usually several inches long. Wipe it clean and inspect it closely:
    • Straightness: Roll it on a flat surface. Any noticeable bend warrants replacement.
    • Wear: Check both ends for excessive wear or mushrooming where it contacts the cam eccentric or the pump lever.
    • Length: Ensure it hasn't worn significantly shorter than a new replacement. Significant wear reduces pump stroke and fuel pressure.
    • Recommendation: Unless the pushrod is visibly perfect (straight, no significant wear at the ends, correct length), it's highly advisable to replace it with a new one. They are inexpensive insurance against future issues like low fuel pressure or premature pump failure.
  6. Clean the Mounting Surface: Use brake cleaner or contact cleaner and a clean rag to thoroughly clean the flat mounting surface on the engine block where the pump gasket seals. Remove all traces of old gasket material, dirt, grease, and oil. This ensures a leak-free seal with the new gasket and pump. Avoid getting excessive cleaner down the pushrod bore; wipe around it carefully.

Step-by-Step Installation of the New Mechanical Fuel Pump SBC 350

  1. Prepare the Pushrod Bore: Apply a thin film of clean engine oil to the fuel pump pushrod. Lightly oiling the pushrod bore itself won't hurt. This minimizes wear on startup.
  2. Install the Pushrod: Insert the fuel pump pushrod back into its bore in the engine block. Ensure it's seated properly at the bottom, resting on the camshaft eccentric. The eccentric has a lobe; its orientation affects how the pump arm will sit initially, but this will correct itself as the engine turns over.
  3. Install the Gasket: Place the new fuel pump gasket onto the mounting studs or carefully align it over the pushrod bore and bolt holes on the engine block. Ensure it sits flat against the cleaned block surface. If your pump uses a spacer block, place the gasket(s) appropriately.
  4. Pre-Prime the Pump (Optional but Recommended): While not strictly necessary, priming the new pump can expedite the startup process by filling its internal chamber. Fill the pump's inlet side with clean gasoline. Pour it in slowly until fuel appears at the outlet. Alternatively, some mechanics lightly coat the inside of the pump and the lever arm with petroleum jelly to aid initial suction – ensure it's compatible with rubber parts. Never pre-fill the pump with volatile starter fluid!
  5. Position the New Pump: Carefully align the new pump body with the mounting studs/bolt holes and the pushrod bore. The pump arm must fit smoothly over the top end of the pushrod inside the bore. You should be able to feel the arm engaging the pushrod. The pump body should sit flush against the gasket without requiring excessive force. Ensure the fuel inlet and outlet fittings are oriented correctly for your fuel lines.
  6. Hand-Start Mounting Bolts: Insert the two mounting bolts through the pump body holes and start them by hand into the engine block. Ensure the longer bolt goes into the deeper hole if yours differ. Getting them started correctly is crucial; cross-threading is possible and damaging.
  7. Tighten Bolts Securely: Using your wrench or socket, tighten the two mounting bolts evenly in a cross-pattern. Snug them down securely, but avoid over-tightening. Over-tightening can crush the gasket, distort the pump body, or even crack the mounting ear on the pump. Follow the torque spec if provided by the pump manufacturer, otherwise, a firm snug is sufficient (typically hand tight plus 1/4 to 1/2 turn). Over-tightening is a common cause of leaks.
  8. Reconnect Fuel Lines: Carefully route the fuel lines (inlet, outlet, and return line if applicable) to connect to their respective fittings on the new pump. Ensure the lines are not kinked, rubbing against sharp edges, or interfering with moving parts (belts, fan). Secure each connection with a new fuel hose clamp. Tighten the clamps securely so no fuel leaks occur under pressure. If using quick-connects, ensure they audibly click into place. Avoid forcing lines onto fittings – they should slide on relatively easily with the clamps loose.
  9. Double-Check: Visually inspect the installation. Confirm pushrod is installed, bolts are tight, fuel lines are securely connected and properly routed, and no tools or rags are left behind in the engine bay.
  10. Restore Fuel Flow and Prime the System: Reconnect the battery negative terminal. Before attempting to start, you need to prime the fuel system to ensure fuel reaches the carburetor. There are two main methods:
    • Using the Mechanical Pump: Crank the engine for 10-15 seconds in short bursts (5 seconds on, 10 seconds off) to avoid overheating the starter. This uses the pump itself to pull fuel from the tank. It may take multiple attempts. Listen for the carburetor inlet filling. The most straightforward method.
    • Manual Filling: Pour a small amount of fuel directly into the carburetor's float bowl vent (consult your carburetor manual). This provides just enough fuel for initial combustion. The engine will start and run briefly, allowing the pump time to pull fuel up from the tank.
  11. Initial Start-Up:
    • Crank the engine. It should start relatively quickly once fuel reaches the carburetor.
    • Let the engine idle. Listen carefully for any unusual noises near the fuel pump.
    • Immediately Check for Leaks: With the engine running, carefully inspect all the fuel connections at the pump: inlet, outlet, return line, and especially the mounting gasket surface. Use a flashlight if necessary. Look for any seeping or dripping fuel. Fuel leaks are a serious fire hazard. If you detect any leak, shut the engine off immediately!
  12. Verify Operation: Once satisfied there are no leaks, let the engine warm up to normal operating temperature. Drive the vehicle under light load initially. Pay attention to throttle response and ensure the engine doesn't stumble or starve for fuel during acceleration. A properly installed pump should provide smooth, consistent fuel flow.

Troubleshooting Common Mechanical Fuel Pump SBC 350 Issues

Even robust mechanical fuel pumps can encounter problems. Understanding the symptoms and likely causes helps diagnose issues effectively:

  • No Fuel Delivery / Engine Cranks But Won't Start: The most obvious sign.
    • Check 1: Fuel Supply: Confirm there is fuel in the tank! Rule out simple causes like an empty tank or a stuck tank vent.
    • Check 2: Pump Pushrod: The most common culprit after simple supply issues. Remove the pump (as detailed earlier) and inspect the pushrod. Is it installed? Is it bent? Is it excessively worn? A missing, bent, or badly worn pushrod cannot activate the pump properly. Replace it.
    • Check 3: Blocked Inlet Line: A severely clogged fuel filter (especially the sock in the tank) or a collapsed/crimped fuel line from the tank to the pump will prevent fuel from reaching the pump. Check along the entire line path. Replace filter(s) or damaged line sections.
    • Check 4: Pump Failure: If fuel supply and the pushrod are good, the pump itself could be faulty. Diaphragms can rupture, check valves can stick open or closed, lever arms can break. Remove the pump outlet line, crank the engine, and see if fuel spurts out (catch it in a container!). No fuel indicates pump failure. Verify the inlet line is unobstructed first.
  • Low Fuel Pressure / Engine Stumbles Under Load: The pump isn't delivering sufficient volume or pressure.
    • Check 1: Pushrod Wear: Partial pushrod wear reduces pump stroke and output pressure. Remove and inspect/replace the pushrod.
    • Check 2: Pump Weakness: Wear inside the pump (diaphragm, valves, lever pin) can reduce efficiency. Test fuel pressure at the carburetor inlet using a low-pressure gauge designed for carbureted engines (0-15 PSI). Less than 3.5 PSI at idle or falling below 4 PSI under load indicates insufficient flow/pressure, likely requiring pump replacement. Ensure the gauge is functional first.
    • Check 3: Inlet Line Restrictions: A partially clogged filter or line from the tank restricts fuel volume to the pump, limiting its maximum output and causing starvation under high demand. Replace filters and check lines.
    • Check 4: Vapor Lock (Hot Weather): Modern gasoline can vaporize easily, especially if the pump is mounted near hot exhaust headers. A warm soak after driving can make restarting difficult. Using a pump with a vapor return port and connecting it can significantly help. Ensuring adequate fuel line clearance from heat sources and using insulated sleeving also aids prevention.
  • External Fuel Leaks: Visible seeping or dripping around the pump.
    • Check 1: Mounting Gasket: The most common leak source. An over-tightened bolt can crush the gasket. An improperly cleaned surface can cause a bad seal. A tear during installation is possible. Tighten bolts to proper torque (if known) or a firm snug. If leak persists, replace the gasket and ensure the mounting surface is impeccably clean.
    • Check 2: Fuel Line Fittings: Leaks at the inlet or outlet fittings usually mean loose hose clamps, damaged sealing surfaces on the fittings, or a cracked pump housing fitting. Tighten clamps carefully. Inspect fittings for cracks or damage. Replace damaged lines or the pump itself if housing fittings are compromised.
    • Check 3: Pump Body Seam/Drain Hole: Diaphragm failure can cause fuel to leak from the body seam or from the drain hole (often a small intentional hole beneath the diaphragm to signal failure) near the mounting flange. A leak here means the diaphragm has ruptured and the pump needs replacement. Fuel should never come from anywhere except the outlet port during operation.
  • Excessively High Fuel Pressure: This can cause carburetor flooding and drivability issues.
    • Check 1: Wrong Pump: Accidental use of an electric fuel pump or a mechanical pump with far too high a rating. Double-check the pump specification. Mechanical SBC pumps should not exceed 9 PSI max for even racing applications.
    • Check 2: Stuck Check Valve: An outlet valve sticking shut could theoretically build excessive pressure, though less common than low pressure issues. Test pressure with a gauge. If consistently over 8-9 PSI and you're sure it's the correct pump, replacement is needed.
    • Check 3: Return Line Restriction: If using a pump with a return port, a pinched or blocked return line prevents pressure regulation and can cause high pressure at the carburetor. Inspect and clear the return line.
  • Engine Noise: A loud ticking or knocking coming from the pump area.
    • Check 1: Loose Mounting Bolts: Ensure both pump mounting bolts are tight.
    • Check 2: Excess Pushrod Clearance: Excessive clearance between the pump lever and the pushrod can create a knocking sound as the arm hits the rod. This might indicate a severely worn pushrod tip or pump arm. Inspect and replace worn components. Using the correct pushrod and pump typically prevents significant clearance.
    • Check 3: Pump Failure: Internal damage like a broken lever or spring can create noises. Replacement is the solution.

Maintenance Tips for Longevity

While mechanical fuel pumps are low-maintenance, proactive care maximizes their lifespan on your SBC 350:

  1. High-Quality Fuel Filter: Use a robust fuel filter between the tank and the pump inlet. This protects the pump's delicate check valves and diaphragm from sediment and rust particles stirred up from the tank. Replace the filter annually or according to the manufacturer's schedule, especially if fuel quality is questionable or the vehicle sits for long periods. An additional filter after the pump (before the carb) is also beneficial but less critical for protecting the pump itself.
  2. Modern Fuel Compatibility: Older original pumps may have diaphragms that degrade with alcohol (ethanol) found in most modern gasoline. Always use a replacement pump explicitly rated for modern fuels containing up to E10 (10% ethanol) or higher. Quality aftermarket pumps use Viton or other alcohol-resistant diaphragm materials. Verify compatibility before purchase.
  3. Avoid Running the Tank Low: Consistently running the fuel tank very low increases the chance of sucking debris from the bottom of the tank into the filter and pump. It also allows warm fuel in the lines to vaporize more easily. Keep the tank above 1/4 full whenever possible.
  4. Prevent Vapor Lock: If you experience vapor lock symptoms, ensure the pump has a vapor return port connected properly. Insulate metal fuel lines running near exhaust components with appropriate thermal sleeving. Ensure the fuel pump is correctly shielded from exhaust heat where possible. Sometimes repositioning fuel lines slightly away from heat sources helps. Avoid undersized fuel line diameters.
  5. Pushrod Check During Engine Work: Whenever the fuel pump is removed for any engine service (timing chain replacement, camshaft swap, etc.), seize the opportunity to remove and inspect the fuel pump pushrod. Replace it if there's any doubt about its condition. Installing a new pump on a worn pushrod guarantees poor performance or premature pump failure. Lubricate the pushrod lightly during reassembly.
  6. Clean Mounting Surface: If the pump ever needs to come off again, be meticulous about cleaning the block mounting surface before reinstalling. A clean, gasket-debris-free surface is vital for preventing leaks.
  7. Avoid Dry Starts: While the pump is durable, avoid excessive cranking if the engine fails to start, especially if the pump is drawing fuel from a large distance or steep angle for the first time after installation or long storage. Prime the system manually as described earlier if possible to reduce pump strain.

Mechanical vs. Electric Fuel Pumps for the SBC 350

The question of upgrading to an electric fuel pump often arises, especially among those modifying their SBC 350 for higher performance.

  • Stick with Mechanical If... Your engine is carbureted, you value reliability and simplicity, you're on a budget, you prefer the original look and functionality, and your fuel demands (even for a mild performance build) are within the capability of a good mechanical pump (many support up to 400+ HP). The SBC 350's design incorporates the mounting pad and pushrod – utilizing it makes sense.
  • Consider Electric If... You're installing a high-flow fuel injection system requiring much higher pressure (40-60+ PSI). You plan forced induction where precise high-pressure fuel delivery is critical. You're installing the engine in a vehicle where the tank is significantly lower than the carburetor inlet or far away, making it difficult for the mechanical pump's suction lift capability (usually limited to under 10-12 inches). Note that installing an electric pump system introduces additional complexity (wiring, relays, switches, filters) and cost. Holistic return-style regulator setups are often needed for consistent pressure.

Choosing a High-Quality Mechanical Fuel Pump SBC 350

Not all replacement pumps are created equal. Invest in quality:

  • Reputable Brands: Stick with known manufacturers specializing in fuel system components or engine parts (Carter/Airtex, Delphi, AC Delco - GM Genuine Parts, Edelbrock for performance, Holley for performance). Avoid the absolute cheapest options.
  • Ethanol Resistance: Always confirm the pump diaphragm is explicitly rated for compatibility with E10 gasoline or higher. This is non-negotiable for longevity with modern fuel.
  • Correct Specifications: Double-check inlet/outlet configuration (size and direction), pressure rating, and presence/lack of a return port to match your vehicle's needs. Refer to your old pump or a trusted application guide.
  • Material Construction: Look for pumps with metal bodies (cast iron is traditional and robust) or high-quality composites that won't crack or distort. Steel lever arms are standard and preferable. Confirm diaphragm material (Viton is excellent).
  • Warranty: A good warranty period indicates manufacturer confidence in the product.

Conclusion: The Enduring Value of the Mechanical Fuel Pump SBC 350

The mechanical fuel pump remains an exceptionally reliable, efficient, and fundamentally sound solution for fuel delivery on the Chevrolet Small Block 350 engine. Its design, driven directly by the camshaft, provides proportional fuel flow perfectly matched to the needs of a carbureted engine. While electric pumps have their place in specific high-performance or fuel-injected applications, the inherent simplicity, ruggedness, cost-effectiveness, and classic authenticity of the mechanical pump make it the default and preferred choice for the vast majority of SBC 350 owners. Understanding its operation, knowing how to correctly select and install the right replacement pump (including critical pushrod inspection), and performing basic system maintenance ensures this vital component continues to reliably fuel the legendary performance of the small-block Chevy for countless miles to come. The mechanical fuel pump is more than just a part; it's a testament to the timeless, functional engineering that made the SBC 350 an automotive icon.

Back to blog