The 07 Camry Fuel Pump Relay Location (& Vital Troubleshooting Guide)
Finding the fuel pump relay location in your 2007 Toyota Camry is crucial when diagnosing a no-start condition, suspected fuel pump failure, or related electrical issues. The fuel pump relay is most commonly located inside the underhood fuse and relay box, specifically as relay R3**, also labeled as "ENG MAIN" (2) on the box diagram. If R3/ENG MAIN isn't readily identifiable, the relay is large, black, square or cube-shaped, and will be positioned alongside other similar primary system relays.** This guide provides precise locations, identification tips, replacement steps, and troubleshooting advice.
The fuel pump relay is an essential component within your Camry's fuel delivery system. It acts as an electronically controlled switch, receiving a signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Engine Control Module (ECM). When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (without starting), the PCM briefly energizes this relay. Upon starting the engine, the PCM continues to supply power through the relay as long as it receives the appropriate signals (like crankshaft position). This relay allows a small current from the PCM to control a much larger current flowing directly from the battery to the fuel pump itself. Without this relay functioning correctly, the fuel pump will not receive power, preventing fuel from reaching the engine and causing a no-start condition. Common symptoms of a faulty relay include the engine cranking but not starting, the fuel pump not making its characteristic buzzing noise momentarily when the key is turned to "ON," intermittent stalling, or sudden loss of power while driving.
Step-by-Step: Locating the 2007 Camry Fuel Pump Relay
While the primary location is the underhood box, it's important to note Toyota sometimes designates auxiliary relays elsewhere, though this is less common for the fuel pump on the 2007 Camry. Here’s exactly where to look:
- Identify the Primary Underhood Fuse/Relay Box: Open your Camry's hood. Look for a rectangular black plastic box on the driver's side of the engine compartment. It is easily the largest fuse/relay box under the hood, typically mounted near the battery (often just behind it towards the firewall) or the strut tower.
- Open the Box Lid: Release the plastic clips (usually two on opposite ends or along the sides) holding the main cover in place. Lift the cover off the box. Important: The underside of the lid holds the official Fuse and Relay Layout Diagram. This diagram is your definitive map.
- Find Relay Slot R3 (ENG MAIN) on the Diagram: Examine the diagram on the underside of the lid. Carefully look for the slot labeled R3. Adjacent to this slot, you will likely see the label "ENG MAIN". On the 2007 Camry, ENG MAIN is the fuel pump relay. This slot, positioned within the grid of relay slots, is your target location. If the diagram is faded or missing, proceed to the next step.
- Identify Relay R3 in the Box: Look at the physical relay sockets within the open box. Locate the socket corresponding to Position R3. The slots are typically numbered on the plastic housing itself near each socket (e.g., R1, R2, R3, R4, etc.).
- Identify Relay R3/ENG MAIN (The Relay Itself): In the R3 slot, you should find a large, black, square/cube-shaped relay. These relays often have a numbering system like "8966" or "056700" molded on top. This is the fuel pump relay. Compared to mini fuses or smaller low-current relays, this relay is one of the largest components in the main underhood box.
- Distinguish from Similar Relays: Positioned near R3 (ENG MAIN) you will typically find other large, identical-looking relays in slots like R1 (Main EFI - Injector Power), R2 (Starter Signal Cut), and sometimes R4 (FAN NO.1 or similar). Do not confuse the Fuel Pump Relay (R3 - ENG MAIN) with EFI (R1), Starter (R2), or Cooling Fan relays (R4). Double-check the diagram position or slot numbering.
(Image Placeholder: High-resolution photo showing the open underhood box, arrows pointing to the R3 slot location and the R3/ENG MAIN relay label in the diagram, and the physical relay itself.)
What If It's Not There? Potential Variations
The underhood location is standard for 2007 Camry models equipped with both the 4-cylinder (2AZ-FE) and V6 (2GR-FE) engines. However, a few considerations:
-
Interior Fuse Panel (Unlikely but Possible): While very uncommon for the 2007 Camry's main fuel pump power feed, some vehicle systems utilize auxiliary relays inside the cabin. If you cannot find a relay resembling the underhood ENG MAIN relay in the underhood box, inspect the driver's side kick panel fuse box.
- To access this panel: Open the driver's door. Look for a plastic panel on the side of the dashboard near the door sill (where the dashboard meets the door when closed). Locate and release the retaining clips or fasteners. Carefully pull the panel towards you to access the fuse box.
- Check the Diagram: Examine the fuse box cover or any provided label. Look for relays labeled specifically "FUEL," "FP," or "P/MP." The relays inside are usually smaller micro relays compared to the large ones under the hood. This is unlikely to be the primary fuel pump relay on a 2007 Camry unless previous modifications exist. The primary is almost always under the hood as R3/ENG MAIN.
Verifying the Correct Relay (Simple Auditory Test)
Before physically removing the relay, perform this quick test:
- Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start the engine). You should hear a distinct "buzz" or "whine" lasting 1-2 seconds near the rear of the vehicle (location of the fuel pump inside the fuel tank). This is the fuel pump priming the system.
- If you do not hear this noise, have someone turn the key to "ON" while you place your fingers directly on the large relay R3 (ENG MAIN) in the underhood box. You should feel and/or hear a distinct "click" as the relay energizes when the key is turned "ON".
-
Result Interpretation:
- Hear Click, No Fuel Pump Buzz: Likely indicates a problem after the relay – faulty fuel pump circuit fuse, wiring, pump ground, or bad pump itself.
- No Click, No Fuel Pump Buzz: Suggests the problem exists before the relay or potentially the relay itself is faulty. Causes include PCM signal failure (often due to a security/key issue), faulty ignition switch, blown EFI fuse (controls PCM power), bad wiring to the relay coil, or the relay being dead.
Testing the 2007 Camry Fuel Pump Relay Functionality
If you suspect the relay is faulty based on symptoms or the test above, you need to verify its operation. Safety First: Disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery before performing tests involving contact with relay pins. Use digital multimeter (DMM) set to resistance (Ohms) and DC Voltage.
Method 1: Bench Test (After Removal)
- Carefully remove the suspect relay (press down on the locking tab at the base and pull straight up).
- Locate Relay Terminals: Identify the relay terminal numbers (usually molded on the relay bottom near the pins). Standard automotive relays have:
- 85 & 86: Coil Control Terminals (Connect to coil winding)
- 30: Common Terminal (Connects to power source)
- 87: Normally Open (NO) Terminal (Connects to 30 when coil energized)
- 87a: Normally Closed (NC) Terminal (Connects to 30 when coil de-energized - less common).
-
Test Coil Resistance (Ohms):
- Set DMM to Ohms (Ω) - often the 200Ω range.
- Place probes on pins 85 and 86. Expect resistance typically between 50Ω and 150Ω. An infinite reading (OL) indicates an open coil (bad relay). A very low resistance (near 0Ω) indicates a shorted coil (bad relay).
-
Test Switching Functionality (Requires External 12V Power or DMM Continuity):
-
Option A (Using DMM Continuity):
- Set DMM to continuity (beep) mode.
- Place probes on pins 30 and 87. Meter should show NO Continuity.
- Apply 12V DC power (e.g., from a 9V battery or a spare 12V vehicle battery via jumpers) to pins 85 (+) and 86 (-). DO NOT REVERSE POLARITY.
- With power applied to 85/86, retest 30 to 87: Meter should show Continuity (Beep).
- If the relay has pin 87a, test 30 to 87a with no power applied: Should have Continuity. With power applied to 85/86: Continuity between 30-87a should break and continuity between 30-87 should be established.
-
Option B (No Power Source):
- Listen/Feel Test: Hold relay firmly. Apply voltage to 85 (+) and 86 (-) (e.g., using two pieces of wire and the vehicle's battery - ensure safe connection). You should clearly hear and feel a solid "click" as the relay activates. DO NOT REVERSE POLARITY.
-
Option A (Using DMM Continuity):
Method 2: In-Vehicle Voltage Test (More Advanced)
- Locate Relay Position (ensure it's R3/ENG MAIN).
- Identify Socket Pins: You need to access the socket pins below the relay. This often requires backprobing or removing the entire underhood box assembly. Be cautious not to short pins.
- Pin 30: Should have constant Battery Voltage (12V+) relative to ground, at all times (check with DMM).
- Pin 86: Gets temporary voltage (+12V) from PCM when key is turned to "ON". Test by probing pin 86 socket with DMM negative probe to ground: Key OFF: 0V. Key ON: Brief ~12V pulse. Check with second person turning key.
- Pin 85: Gets ground signal from PCM when conditions are met (security pass, etc.). Test resistance to ground: Should be low (<5Ω) consistently. Check voltage: Should be near 0V relative to ground except when PCM briefly grounds it during the prime sequence (difficult to catch).
- Pin 87 (Output to Fuel Pump): Turn key to "ON": Should see brief ~12V pulse matching the prime sequence. While cranking: Should have constant ~12V.
-
Interpreting Voltage Test Results:
- Pin 30 No Voltage: Check Main EFI fuse in underhood box (fuseable link or fuse ~15A-25A, labeled EFI). Check wiring from battery to relay socket.
- Pin 86 No Voltage Pulse at Key ON: Problem supplying power to relay coil: Check EFI fuse, PCM power/grounds, ignition switch signal to PCM, wiring. Could be PCM issue or security/key problem.
- Pin 85 No Ground / High Resistance: PCM not grounding signal, poor connection at PCM connector, broken wiring.
- Pin 87 Gets Pulse/Voltage: Relay is likely switching correctly. Problem is downstream (wiring to pump, fuse near battery, pump ground, pump itself).
- Pin 87 Gets NO Pulse/Voltage despite Pin 30 having power and Pin 86 getting signal: Relay itself is likely bad (internally not switching even if coil resistance tests good).
Replacing a Faulty Fuel Pump Relay on a 2007 Camry
If your testing confirms a bad relay, replacement is straightforward and cost-effective.
- Obtain the Correct Replacement: The factory Toyota part number for the fuel pump relay in a 2007 Camry is 90080-xxxxx (xxxxx indicates sub-variants). An extremely common industry standard equivalent is DENSO 056700-0640, SANYO AA-12V, or OMRON G8W. Look for a 12V DC automotive relay described as a "Cube," "Micro," or "ISO" relay with 5 pins (85,86,30,87,87a). Ensure the physical dimensions match your original relay. Most auto parts stores will list a compatible relay under applications (2007 Toyota Camry Fuel Pump Relay). Cost is typically 35.
-
Remove the Old Relay:
- Locate R3/ENG MAIN relay in the underhood fuse box.
- Disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal: Always a good safety practice when working around electrical components.
- Firmly grasp the relay by its sides.
- Press downward on the plastic locking tab located at the base of the relay where it meets the socket.
- While pressing down on the tab, pull the relay straight upwards out of its socket. Avoid wiggling excessively to prevent socket damage.
-
Install the New Relay:
- Take the new relay. Ensure the pin configuration (number and layout) is identical to the old relay.
- Align the relay pins precisely over the holes in the R3 socket.
- Press the relay straight down firmly and evenly until it clicks into place. You should feel the locking tab engage the socket.
- Reconnect Battery: Reattach the negative battery terminal.
- Test Operation: Turn the ignition key to "ON" and listen for the brief fuel pump prime sound. If you hear it, attempt to start the engine. The engine should crank and start normally if the faulty relay was the root cause.
Why Knowing the Location Matters Beyond Simple Replacement
Understanding where the fuel pump relay is located provides significant advantages:
- Accurate Diagnosis: Prevents misdiagnosis and unnecessary parts replacement (e.g., buying a fuel pump when a $20 relay is the problem). Enables targeted testing.
-
Emergency Bypass (Use with Extreme Caution & Temporarily): Knowing the relay and socket layout allows a temporary bypass if a relay fails and you've confirmed the fuel pump is functional. This bypass should ONLY be done to move the vehicle to a safe location or a repair shop, never as a permanent solution due to safety risks. Method:
- Identify Pin 30 (Constant Power) and Pin 87 (Output to Pump) in the relay socket (refer to the box lid diagram or generic pin layout).
- Using a heavy-duty insulated jumper wire (capable of handling 15-20A current), carefully insert one end securely into Pin 30 socket and the other end into Pin 87 socket. DO NOT connect to pin 85 or 86.
- Result: This directly connects battery power to the fuel pump, bypassing all PCM control and the relay. The pump will run continuously whenever the ignition is OFF as long as the jumper is inserted, potentially draining the battery. The pump will run continuously whenever the ignition is OFF as long as the jumper is inserted, potentially draining the battery. The pump lacks normal startup prime sequence and run-time control by the PCM. Remove the jumper wire IMMEDIATELY once you've moved the vehicle.
- Understanding System Interaction: Knowledge of the relay position helps troubleshoot complex issues involving the PCM, security system, ignition switch, or wiring harnesses affecting fuel pump operation.
- Saving Time & Money: Quickly checking or swapping the relay can resolve issues without professional help or costly towing.
- Maintenance Awareness: Being aware of the relay's role makes you more attuned to potential symptoms of its failure.
Crucial Safety Precautions and Tips
- Disconnect Battery: Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before removing fuses, relays, or performing electrical tests involving contact with metal pins. Prevents accidental shorts.
- Avoid Shorts: Be extremely careful when probing relay sockets or wiring. A momentary short can blow fuses or damage delicate PCM circuits. Use probes carefully.
- Use Correct Tools: Needle-nose pliers sometimes help grip tight relays, but ensure you are only pulling straight up without damaging the socket or surrounding components.
- Check Related Fuses: Before assuming the relay is bad, or if a new relay doesn't fix the problem, check the EFI fuse (often 15A-25A) and the Fuel Pump fuse (often located near the battery, labeled MAIN FUEL INJ or similar, often 25A+) in the underhood box. A blown fuse will prevent power from reaching the relay or pump.
- Consult a Mechanic: If you lack electrical troubleshooting experience, diagnosing why the relay isn't receiving its control signals requires complex skills. Seek professional help.
- Quality Parts: Use relays meeting Toyota specifications. Low-quality knock-offs can fail prematurely or cause reliability issues.
Conclusion
Locating the fuel pump relay (position R3 / ENG MAIN in the primary underhood fuse and relay box) on your 2007 Toyota Camry is a fundamental diagnostic and repair step when facing no-start or fuel-related issues. Armed with the precise location, identification methods (diagram and physical characteristics), verification techniques, and replacement instructions provided in this guide, you are equipped to efficiently diagnose and potentially resolve fuel pump power problems. Always prioritize safety by disconnecting the battery before handling electrical components, and thoroughly test the relay and associated fuses before considering more costly repairs like fuel pump replacement. Understanding the role and location of this vital relay empowers you to maintain your Camry effectively.