The 1999 Dodge Durango Fuel Pump Location: A Complete Access & Replacement Guide

The fuel pump on your 1999 Dodge Durango is located inside the fuel tank. To access it, you must lower the fuel tank from the vehicle’s undercarriage. There is no external access panel; the fuel pump assembly is solely reachable by removing the tank itself, typically situated beneath the rear passenger seating area within the chassis structure.

Finding and replacing the fuel pump on a 1999 Dodge Durango is a common repair task. While moderately challenging due to the requirement of tank removal, it's a well-documented procedure achievable by a prepared DIY mechanic with the right tools, space, and safety precautions. This guide provides the detailed, step-by-step information you need.

Why the Fuel Pump Matters and Signs of Failure

The fuel pump is the heart of your Durango’s fuel delivery system. Its job is critical: drawing fuel from the tank and delivering it under high pressure (approximately 58 PSI for the 5.9L engine, around 48 PSI for the 5.2L) to the fuel injectors. Without a functioning pump, your engine simply won't run, or will stall unexpectedly.

Recognizing the symptoms of a failing fuel pump helps diagnose the issue before you’re left stranded:

  1. Engine Cranks But Won’t Start: The most obvious sign. If the engine turns over but doesn't fire, and you've ruled out issues like a dead battery or faulty starter, fuel delivery (often the pump) is a prime suspect.
  2. Engine Sputtering or Hesitation Under Load: A weak pump may struggle to maintain consistent pressure, especially when accelerating, climbing hills, or towing. The engine may surge, stumble, or lose power momentarily.
  3. Loss of Power at High Speeds/RPMs: Similar to hesitation, an inability to deliver sufficient fuel volume under high demand causes a noticeable power drop when trying to sustain highway speeds or during hard acceleration.
  4. Whining or Humming Noise from the Fuel Tank: While fuel pumps do emit a faint operational hum, a significantly louder, high-pitched whining or screeching noise coming from the rear of the vehicle, especially when the key is turned to "ON" (before cranking) or while idling, strongly indicates a worn pump motor bearing. Quiet operation before cranking when the key is turned on can also indicate a failed pump.
  5. Engine Stalling (Often When Warm): A pump nearing failure may work intermittently or stop when it gets hot due to internal component breakdown, causing the engine to stall. It might restart after cooling down, only to stall again later.
  6. Vehicle Dies While Driving: Similar to stalling, but often more sudden and complete loss of engine power while moving.
  7. Difficulty Starting After Sitting: If the Durango starts fine when cold but struggles to start after being driven and sitting for a short period (like at a store), it could indicate a failing pump that loses prime or overheats.

Mandatory Safety Precautions Before Starting

Working with gasoline is inherently dangerous. Ignoring these precautions risks fire, explosion, poisoning, and severe injury. Do NOT proceed unless you fully understand and commit to these steps:

  1. Work in a Well-Ventilated Area: Outdoors is ideal. If you must work in a garage, ensure maximum airflow – open all doors and windows. Gasoline vapors are heavier than air, highly flammable, and toxic. Use fans only if they are intrinsically safe (spark-proof).
  2. Relieve Fuel System Pressure: Crucial step to prevent a high-pressure spray of gasoline when disconnecting lines.
    • Locate the fuel pump fuse or relay in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) under the hood (consult owner's manual or diagram on PDC lid). The fuse/relay is often labeled "FUEL PUMP" or "FP."
    • Start the engine and let it idle.
    • Carefully pull the fuel pump fuse or relay while the engine is running. The engine will stall within a few seconds as fuel pressure is depleted.
    • Confirm Pressure Depletion: Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds after it stalls to ensure any residual pressure is bled off. You may hear a brief puff of air or fuel spurt when finally disconnecting lines – be cautious. Wrap a rag around fittings.
    • Alternative Method (If Engine Won't Run): Disconnect the pump's electrical connector (often accessible under the vehicle near the tank), start and crank the engine for 10-15 seconds to deplete pressure. Cranking longer may drain the battery.
  3. Disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal: Prevents accidental sparks from electrical components during the job. Secure the cable away from the battery post.
  4. Drain the Fuel Tank: Do NOT work on a tank containing more than a small amount of fuel. A full tank is extremely heavy (gasoline weighs ~6 lbs/gallon) and creates significant spill risk when lowering.
    • Preferred Method: Siphon/Pump Out: Use a manual or electric siphon pump designed for gasoline. Insert the siphon hose through the fuel filler neck (you may need to remove any flapper valves or screens temporarily – research your specific filler neck). Pump fuel into approved, clearly labeled gasoline containers rated for fuel storage. Store containers well away from the work area and any ignition sources.
    • Alternative Method: Use Low-Pressure Supply Line: This requires two people. Place an approved gasoline container under the vehicle. Disconnect the fuel feed line at the engine bay (usually at the fuel rail). Carefully extend this line safely downwards into your container. Briefly jumper the fuel pump relay socket (consult vehicle-specific diagrams) to activate the pump momentarily and pump fuel out. Extreme caution required – sparks, spills. Not recommended for beginners. If in doubt, siphon.
    • Drain Plug? 1999 Durango fuel tanks do not have a drain plug. Siphoning or pumping is the only safe method.
  5. Gather Essential Safety Gear:
    • ANSI-approved safety glasses (mandatory).
    • Chemical-resistant gloves (nitrile recommended).
    • Fire extinguisher (Class B, rated for flammable liquids) placed immediately within reach at your work area.
    • Absorbent pads or material (kitty litter, commercial absorbents) ready to contain any spills instantly.
    • Absolutely NO smoking, open flames, sparks (including grinders, normal electrical tools), or operating pilot lights near the work area. Prohibit anyone else from bringing sources near.
  6. Have Proper Equipment Ready: Ensure you have sturdy jack stands rated for the vehicle's weight (at least 3-ton capacity), a hydraulic floor jack, sufficient blocks of wood or ramps, and wheel chocks. Never rely solely on a hydraulic jack to support the vehicle.

Tools & Parts You Will Need

Gathering everything beforehand saves significant time and frustration:

  • Essential Tools:
    • Floor jack and sturdy jack stands (3-ton+ capacity)
    • Wheel chocks
    • Socket set (Metric: primarily 13mm, 15mm, 18mm; Standard may be needed for exhaust/shields)
    • Ratchet wrenches (long and short handles)
    • Open-end wrenches
    • Phillips and Flathead screwdrivers
    • Torx bit set (T15, T20, T25, T30 are common – size needed depends on shield fasteners)
    • Pliers (Channel-lock style, needle-nose)
    • Fuel line disconnect tools (Standard size for Dodge quick-connect fittings – readily available at auto parts stores as a set. Get both 3/8" and 5/16" sizes. Plastic internal clips can be fragile!)
    • Large adjustable wrench (or pipe wrench – for potentially stubborn filler neck hose clamp)
    • Trim panel removal tools (plastic pry tools – useful for filler neck shield if applicable)
    • Utility knife (careful use around hoses/wiring)
    • Large drain pan (for residual fuel and any spills)
    • Flashlight/Work Light (headlamp ideal for hands-free under-vehicle work)
    • Brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) & shop towels (for cleaning connections/sealing surfaces)
  • Mandatory Parts:
    • New Fuel Pump Assembly (Ensure it is SPECIFIC for 1999 Dodge Durango, matching engine size - 5.2L Magnum or 5.9L Magnum. Also specify 4WD or 2WD if the pump differs - many do.) Buy quality parts (ACDelco, Delphi, Bosch, Denso, Carter, Mopar) for longevity. Avoid bargain-basement brands.
    • New Fuel Tank Lock Ring or Strap Kit (Many assemblies come with a new lock ring. If yours doesn't, BUY ONE separately. Old rings can be distorted or corroded, leading to leaks.)
    • New Fuel Tank Filler Neck Seal / Grommet (Highly Recommended - the old one hardens and leaks fuel vapors after removal/reinstallation.)
    • New Fuel Line O-Rings / Seals (Often included with the pump assembly. Crucial for leak-free connections.)
  • Highly Recommended Parts:
    • New Fuel Filter (The ideal time to replace it, located along the frame rail. Avoid integrated pump/filter units unless replacing the whole assembly again.)
    • New Fuel Pump Relay (A cheap and effective preventative measure, eliminating a common failure point that mimics pump failure.)

Step-by-Step Guide: Accessing & Replacing the Fuel Pump in a 1999 Dodge Durango

  1. Vehicle Preparation & Access:

    • Park the Durango on a level, concrete surface. Engage the parking brake firmly.
    • Chock the front wheels securely (front and back of tires).
    • Perform all safety steps: Disconnect battery negative terminal, relieve fuel pressure, drain fuel tank to near empty (less than 1/4 tank ideal), ensure safety gear on.
    • Raise the Rear of the Vehicle: Jack up the rear using the manufacturer-specified jacking points (consult manual – typically solid points on the frame near the rear wheels). Support the vehicle securely on jack stands placed under the main frame rails at the rear. DO NOT WORK UNDER A VEHICLE SUPPORTED ONLY BY A JACK. Give the vehicle a solid shake to confirm stability. Allow ample working room under the rear half, especially around the tank area.

  2. Remove Exhaust Components (If Necessary):

    • Inspect the path of the exhaust pipe near the fuel tank. Often, the tailpipe and possibly a muffler hanger or heat shield must be moved aside for tank clearance. If the exhaust pipe passes directly over the tank straps, partial removal is usually needed.
    • Loosen and remove the clamp(s) connecting the tailpipe to the muffler or intermediate pipe. This usually requires penetrating oil and persuasion with a hammer/pry bar.
    • Unhook necessary rubber hangers using pry tools (carefully) and lower the tailpipe section enough to provide ample clearance for the tank to drop. Support it safely with wire or blocks – avoid letting it hang solely by front connections. (Full exhaust removal is rarely necessary).

  3. Disconnect Fuel Fill Neck and Vent Hoses:

    • Inside the rear wheel well (driver's side), locate the fuel filler pipe entering the body.
    • Carefully peel back the plastic wheel well liner (if equipped) or access covers to expose the large rubber hose connecting the external filler neck to the tank's filler pipe.
    • Loosen the large, stainless steel worm-gear clamp securing this hose using a large screwdriver or socket/wrench.
    • Firmly twist and pull the rubber hose backwards off the tank's filler pipe. Be prepared for residual fuel spillage – have absorbents ready. Clean any spilled fuel immediately.
    • Similarly, locate the smaller diameter vapor vent hose(s) near the filler neck (often attached with small clamps or push connectors). Disconnect these as well. Note routing carefully. Residual fumes are still present – work cautiously.

  4. Disconnect Electrical and Fuel Line Connections:

    • Under the vehicle, locate the electrical connector and the two fuel lines (supply/feed and return) attached directly to the top of the fuel pump module assembly. They pass through the top of the tank and are bundled together towards the front-center or driver's side front of the tank.
    • Electrical Connector: Depress any locking tabs and firmly disconnect the multi-pin electrical plug. Wiggle gently while pulling straight apart. Be mindful of wiring harness routing.
    • Fuel Lines: Identify the fuel feed (larger diameter) and return (smaller diameter) lines. Use the appropriate fuel line disconnect tool:
      • Slip the correct size disconnect tool firmly into the gap between the plastic fuel line body and the metal pump assembly connector until it clicks/fully seats.
      • While firmly holding the disconnect tool pushed in all the way, pull the fuel line connector itself straight off the pump fitting. Avoid pulling the hose. If stuck, alternate pushing the tool and gentle twisting/pulling. Do not force.
      • Repeat for the second fuel line. Immediately plug disconnected lines and tank fittings with clean shop towels or plastic caps to prevent dirt ingress and minimize vapor escape. Cover the electrical connector too.

  5. Support the Fuel Tank:

    • Position your hydraulic floor jack squarely under the center of the fuel tank. Use a large block of wood between the jack pad and the tank bottom to distribute the load evenly and prevent damage. Slowly raise the jack until it just snugly supports the full weight of the tank. Do not lift yet.

  6. Remove Fuel Tank Strap Bolts & Lower Tank:

    • Locate the two metal retaining straps encircling the tank. Each strap is secured at one end by a bolt head and nut (or welded nut on frame). For 1999 Durango, it's usually a bolt head accessible from below.
    • Spray the exposed threads of the strap bolts/nuts with penetrating oil. Let soak briefly if corroded.
    • Using the appropriate socket/wrench (often 13mm or 15mm), carefully loosen and completely remove both strap bolts/nuts. Keep the hardware with each strap.
    • With one person supporting the tank with the jack, the other person should now carefully lower the hydraulic jack slowly, only a few inches. The tank will descend with it. Observe closely for any hoses, wires, or exhaust components that might still be attached. Double-check all connections are truly disconnected.
    • Continue lowering the jack slowly until the top of the fuel tank is roughly 12-18 inches below the vehicle floor. This provides sufficient access to the fuel pump module on the tank's top surface. Be cautious of the filler neck and vent hoses as the tank lowers – ensure they don't kink or get pinched.

  7. Remove Fuel Pump Lock Ring:

    • Locate the large plastic lock ring (retainer) securing the fuel pump assembly to the fuel tank. It is threaded and sits around the circular module opening.
    • Important: Wipe away any dirt, grime, or residual fuel from around the lock ring and module before disassembly.
    • Lock Ring Removal: Using a brass punch (soft metal to avoid sparks) or a large flat-blade screwdriver placed firmly in one of the ring's notches, strike the punch/screwdriver sharply with a dead-blow hammer or brass hammer to rotate the ring counter-clockwise (lefty-loosey).
    • Strike progressively around the ring (use multiple notches) until it becomes loose enough to turn by hand. Be patient. It can be very tight, especially on older vehicles. Avoid excessive force to prevent cracking the plastic ring or tank neck. Remove the entire plastic lock ring.

  8. Remove Old Fuel Pump Assembly:

    • With the lock ring off, carefully lift the fuel pump module straight up and out of the tank opening. Note the alignment marks or keyways on the pump housing and tank opening – these ensure it goes back in correctly. A helper might be needed to guide wiring/hoses.
    • Inspect the rubber O-ring seal on the outside of the pump housing flange. This seal is critical and must be replaced with the new one included with your new pump assembly. Discard the old seal.
    • Place the old assembly aside in your drain pan. Be careful as residual fuel will likely spill out.

  9. Transfer Components (If Applicable) & Prepare New Pump:

    • Some pump assemblies require transferring the fuel level sender (float arm) and bracket to the new pump assembly. Check your new pump kit's instructions carefully. Handle the sender float arm gently – do not bend it. Reconnect the electrical clip.
    • New Seals: Ensure the new, correct O-ring seal is lightly lubricated with a smear of fresh, clean engine oil or the specific lube provided in the kit. Never use petroleum jelly or grease near fuel components. Lubrication prevents twisting/rolling the seal during installation. Carefully place the new seal onto the groove on the new pump assembly housing flange.
    • Filter Sock: Verify the inlet filter "sock" on the bottom of the new pump assembly is clean and securely attached. Do not remove it unless replacing separately.
    • Ensure all electrical contacts and connectors on the new pump are clean.

  10. Install New Fuel Pump Assembly:

    • Carefully lower the new pump assembly straight down into the tank opening, aligning any keys or marks noted during removal. Gently twist it slightly as needed to seat the flange fully down onto the tank surface. Ensure the rubber O-ring remains seated in its groove and is not pinched or rolled. It must sit flat.
    • Place the NEW plastic lock ring onto the tank opening, aligning its threads correctly (ensure it sits flush and level). Hand-thread it clockwise (righty-tighty) as far as you can. Press down on the pump flange if necessary to allow ring engagement.
    • Lock Ring Tightening: Using your brass punch/screwdriver placed in a notch and hammer, firmly tap the ring clockwise until it is fully seated and flush. Alternate taps around the ring to tighten it evenly. Tap firmly but avoid hammering so hard you crack the plastic. You should feel significant resistance when it's properly seated. Do not overtighten. A distinct "thud" when tapping means it's seated.

  11. Reinstallation: Raising the Tank & Reconnecting:

    • Carefully raise the jack supporting the fuel tank slowly back up towards its original position underneath the vehicle. Guide wires and hoses.
    • Once aligned, slightly lift the tank snug against the frame rails and reinstall the two metal tank straps. Insert the bolts/nuts finger-tight first.
    • Tighten Strap Bolts: Gradually and evenly tighten each strap bolt to manufacturer specifications. Consult a repair manual if possible. DO NOT overtighten, as this can crush or distort the tank over time. Ensure both straps are evenly tensioned. Torque typically ranges from 18-25 ft-lbs (24-34 Nm) but follow reliable source.
    • Reconnect Fill Neck & Vents: Push the large filler hose firmly back onto the tank's filler pipe. Reinstall and tighten the large stainless steel clamp securely. Reconnect any small vapor vent hose(s) and secure their clamps/connectors. Verify routing is correct and not kinked.
    • Reconnect Electrical & Fuel Lines: Before connecting fuel lines, replace the small O-rings inside the metal connectors on the tank module (if provided in kit)! Then:
      • Push the fuel line connectors straight onto the tank fittings until you hear/feel a distinct click. Firmly tug on each connection to confirm it's locked. Failure to lock = major fuel leak risk.
      • Reconnect the electrical connector firmly until the lock engages.
    • Reinstall Exhaust Components (If Removed): Raise the tailpipe section and reconnect the clamp(s) removed earlier. Tighten securely. Ensure all rubber exhaust hangers are properly seated. Double-check ample clearance between exhaust pipes and the fuel tank/hoses – heat can cause vaporization.

  12. Final Checks & First Start:

    • Visually inspect the entire underside: tank straps tight (no distortion), fuel lines connected & locked, electrical connected, fill neck hose tight, vent hoses secure, no tools left behind.
    • Carefully lower the vehicle completely to the ground. Remove jack stands, chocks, etc.
    • Reconnect Battery Negative Terminal.
    • Priming/Bleeding: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" (RUN) position (do NOT crank starter). Listen near the rear of the vehicle for the fuel pump to whirr for 2-3 seconds as it primes the system. Turn the key off. Wait 2 seconds. Repeat the "ON" position cycle 3-4 times. This helps fill the lines and bleed most air.
    • Leak Check: Before starting, with the key ON (pump ran), carefully inspect every connection you touched: fuel line quick-connects (feel for wetness/odor), tank lock ring, fill neck hose, drain plug area (if used), fuel filter connections. Use a small mirror to check hard-to-see spots. Look, listen, and smell for any evidence of fuel leaks. ABSOLUTELY NO LEAKS ARE ACCEPTABLE. If a leak is found, turn key OFF immediately, disconnect battery, locate and repair the leak before proceeding.
    • Start Engine: Attempt to start the engine. It may crank slightly longer than usual (5-10 seconds) as the last of the air is purged. Once started, let it idle. Observe fuel pressure (if you have a gauge), listen for misfires (usually clear quickly), and CONTINUE MONITORING FOR LEAKS underneath the vehicle. Let the engine run for several minutes.
    • Road Test: Drive cautiously initially. Listen for any abnormal sounds (whine should be quiet if pump is new), ensure smooth acceleration with no hesitation, stalling, or loss of power. Verify the fuel gauge works correctly (if sender was disturbed).

Choosing the Right Replacement Fuel Pump

Quality matters significantly for fuel pump longevity:

  • OEM (Mopar): Original manufacturer part. Highest assurance of fit and durability. Usually the most expensive.
  • Premium Aftermarket (ACDelco Professional, Delphi, Bosch, Denso, Carter): Reputable brands offering near or equal OEM quality, often with better warranties, and usually more affordable than Mopar. Highly recommended for DIY.
  • Economy Aftermarket: Often significantly cheaper. While some are okay, quality control is inconsistent. Higher risk of premature failure (DOA or within months). Use at your own risk; false economy potential is high given the labor involved.
  • Check Specifications: Ensure the pump is specified for 1999 Dodge Durango and your exact engine (5.2L V8 Magnum or 5.9L V8 Magnum). Also confirm compatibility with your drivetrain (4WD vs RWD - tanks and pump assemblies sometimes differ).
  • Warranty: Look for pumps with a minimum 1-2 year nationwide warranty.

Additional Tips & Troubleshooting

  • Reuse the Old Lock Ring? NO. Plastic fatigues and distorts over time. Installing the new pump with the old lock ring risks leaks or catastrophic detachment. Always use a new lock ring.
  • Reuse the Flange O-Ring? NEVER. The old O-ring will be compressed, hardened, and potentially cracked. It will leak if reused. Always use the new O-ring provided.
  • Reuse Fuel Line O-Rings? AVOID. Replace the small O-rings inside the metal quick-connect fittings with the new ones from your pump kit. Old seals cause leaks.
  • Fuel Gauge Inaccurate? Likely due to the float arm being bent during removal/installation. Gently bend it back to match its original shape relative to the module body. Test before final tank installation if possible (hookup wires briefly during bench test – float range).
  • Pump Runs But Engine Still Won't Start?
    • Did you reconnect all electrical plugs fully?
    • Did you reconnect the ground wire properly (if applicable near pump wiring)?
    • Check the fuel pump relay – swap with a known good one (like horn relay).
    • Check main fuel pump fuse.
    • Re-confirm quick-connect fittings are fully engaged and locked (audible click/tug test).
    • Verify fuel filter isn't clogged (ideal time to replace it anyway!).
    • Consider fuel pressure test at the rail to confirm proper PSI (approx. 48-58 PSI key-on-engine-off, holds pressure after shutdown).
    • Don't overlook ignition or other issues (spark, ECM issues).
  • Gasoline Odor Inside Vehicle? Usually indicates a failure of the filler neck grommet seal OR a leak at the tank lock ring O-ring. Reinspect installation. DO NOT ignore fuel odors.

Conclusion

Replacing the fuel pump on your 1999 Dodge Durango involves significant work requiring tank removal. While not for the faint of heart, it's a manageable DIY project with thorough preparation, patience, strict adherence to safety protocols (especially fuel handling and ventilation), and careful execution of the steps outlined above. Remember: always use new seals and O-rings, double-check all connections for leaks, and invest in a quality replacement pump. Following this comprehensive guide will get you through the job successfully and have your Durango back on the road reliably.

FAQ Section

  • Q: Is there really NO access panel? I heard you can get to it under the seat.
    A: For the 1999 Durango generation, no. Unlike some vehicles where the pump is accessed via a panel inside the rear floor, the Durango's fuel pump assembly design necessitates complete tank removal. Access attempts through the floor (by cutting) are highly discouraged, create safety hazards, and often void warranties or fail to actually reach the pump depending on tank baffles/design.
  • Q: Can I replace the pump without dropping the tank?
    A: Practically, no. The entire assembly sits deep within the tank, secured by a large ring accessible only from below the level where the tank meets the body frame. Partial tank lowering provides access to the ring and pump top. Access from inside the vehicle won't work.
  • Q: How long does the job take?
    A: For a well-prepared DIYer (with tools ready, fuel siphoned beforehand), expect 4-8 hours depending on rust levels, stuck bolts, and experience. Budget a full day. Professional mechanics might take 2-4 hours.
  • Q: My fuel gauge was working before, but is wrong now after replacing the pump. What happened?
    A: Likely the float arm attached to the fuel level sender was bent during installation or removal. Carefully remove the pump assembly again (following safety steps!) and gently bend the arm back towards its original shape relative to the module body and float position. Try to minimize handling the sender arm. Bench test the sender resistance range if possible before full reassembly.
  • Q: Can I drive with a whining fuel pump?
    A: While it may run for a while, a loudly whining pump indicates significant internal wear or lack of lubrication. Failure is imminent and can happen anytime without warning – potentially stranding you. Don't risk it; replace it soon.
  • Q: Are there any common mistakes to avoid?
    A: Yes! 1) Not relieving fuel pressure (spray hazard). 2) Using old lock ring and/or O-rings (leaks). 3) Not fully locking fuel line connectors (leaks). 4) Overtightening tank strap bolts (damages tank). 5) Forgetting to reconnect the ground wire or electrical connector. 6) Skipping the leak test step. 7) Not adequately draining fuel before lowering tank (heavy/spill hazard).
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