2001 Honda Accord Fuel Pump Relay Location: Find It Fast & Fix No-Start Issues

For 2001 Honda Accord owners facing crank but no-start problems, the fuel pump relay is located inside the interior fuse box, near the driver's left knee below the dashboard, specifically in Slot 16 (often labeled as "Position 6" within the box). This relay is critical for providing power to the fuel pump when you turn the ignition key. Identifying and potentially replacing a faulty fuel pump relay is a common and relatively simple repair for this generation Honda Accord.

The Critical Role of the Fuel Pump Relay in Your 2001 Accord

Modern vehicles rely heavily on a network of electrical relays. These are essentially electronically controlled switches. They allow a small current from your ignition switch or a computer module to control a much larger current required by high-demand components like the fuel pump. In your 2001 Honda Accord, the fuel pump relay acts as the gatekeeper for power to the fuel pump. When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" position, the Engine Control Module (ECM/PCM) sends a signal to energize this relay. This closes an internal switch within the relay, completing the electrical circuit and delivering battery power to the fuel pump. A malfunctioning relay cuts power to the pump, preventing fuel delivery and causing the engine to crank but not start.

Symptoms of a Bad Fuel Pump Relay (2001 Accord)

Suspect the fuel pump relay if your 2001 Accord exhibits these issues:

  1. Engine Cranks But Won't Start: This is the most common symptom. The engine turns over strongly (cranks) but does not fire and run. This happens because no fuel is reaching the engine.
  2. No Fuel Pump Prime Noise: When you turn the ignition key to "ON" (but not to "START"), you should hear a distinct buzzing or humming sound from the rear of the car (near the fuel tank) for about 2-3 seconds. This is the fuel pump pressurizing the system. If you hear absolutely nothing, the relay is a prime suspect.
  3. Engine Stalls Suddenly While Driving: A failing relay can intermittently cut power to the fuel pump, causing the engine to die without warning while driving.
  4. Intermittent Starting Problems: The car might start fine sometimes and then refuse to start other times, especially when warm or after being driven recently. This points to a relay losing contact internally as it heats up.
  5. Check Engine Light (CEL) Codes: While not always present, a failing relay can sometimes trigger diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) like P0230 (Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction) or P1259 (VTEC System Malfunction, sometimes related due to shared relays or wiring).

Locating the Interior Fuse Box in Your 2001 Honda Accord

The main interior fuse/relay panel housing the fuel pump relay is not in the engine compartment. To find it:

  1. Sit in the driver's seat.
  2. Look downward and slightly to your left, below the instrument cluster and near the hood release lever. You will see a rectangular or square-shaped plastic panel covering the fuse box, mounted vertically on the driver's side lower dash panel.
  3. To access it, you typically need to remove this cover. Most panels on the 2001 Accord are secured by simple plastic clips or small screws. Carefully pry it open starting at one corner or unscrew the fasteners. The cover will usually have a diagram listing the fuses and relays inside on its back side. Keep this for reference.

Identifying the Fuel Pump Relay within the Fuse Box (Slot 16 / Position 6)

Once the lower dash cover is removed, you'll see the fuse box filled with various colored fuses and several black plastic squares or cubes – these are the relays. Relays are larger than fuses.

  1. Find Slot 16: Look closely at the fuse box housing or the diagram on the back of the cover. You need to locate the socket labeled "Slot 16".
  2. Confirm Label: Slot 16 is often also labeled "FUEL PUMP" and might have sub-labeling like "Position 6". It is frequently grouped with the ECM (PGM-FI) relays. In many 2001 Accords, Slot 16 houses both the main PGM-FI relay and the fuel pump relay as a combined unit (this is the common configuration). Sometimes, especially in earlier sixth-generation models, they might be separate. Assume Slot 16.
  3. Visual Identification: The relay plugged into Slot 16 is typically a small black plastic cube, about 1 inch by 1 inch, with 5 spade terminals or pins underneath. It is one of the larger components in the box besides fuses.
  4. Compare: It should look identical to other similar-sized relays in nearby slots (like the radiator fan relay). Having a spare identical relay elsewhere in the box is helpful for testing.

Testing the 2001 Honda Accord Fuel Pump Relay

Before replacing it, confirming the relay is faulty is prudent. Here's how:

  1. Ignition Sound Test: Turn the ignition key to "ON" (not start). Listen carefully for the 2-3 second fuel pump prime noise from the rear seats/tank area. No sound suggests a problem (relay, pump fuse, wiring, or pump).
  2. Swap Test: Identify another identical relay in the fuse box, such as the radiator fan relay or rear defogger relay. Remove both relays (fuel pump and your test relay). Plug the test relay into the fuel pump slot (Slot 16). Turn the key to "ON". If you now hear the fuel pump prime, your original fuel pump relay is bad.
  3. Electrical Testing (Multimeter Required): More accurate than swapping.
    • Access: Carefully remove the suspect relay from Slot 16. Note its orientation.
    • Pin Identification: Look at the base of the relay or the socket diagram. You'll see 5 terminals/pins. Typically:
      • Pin 1: Ground (Often connected to chassis ground)
      • Pin 2: Coil Feed (From ignition switch)
      • Pin 3: Coil Ground (Controlled by ECM/PCM)
      • Pin 4: Power Feed In (Fused battery power, often shared)
      • Pin 5: Power Feed Out (To the fuel pump)
    • Check Coil Resistance:
      • Set your multimeter to Ohms (Ω).
      • Touch probes to Pin 2 and Pin 3. You should read resistance, typically between 60-100 Ohms. An open circuit (OL or very high reading) or a short circuit (0 Ohms) indicates a bad coil.
    • Check Switch Continuity:
      • Set multimeter to Continuity/Diode mode or lowest Ohms.
      • With the relay not energized (as it sits on your bench), there should be NO continuity between Pin 4 (Power In) and Pin 5 (Power Out to pump).
      • Apply battery voltage: Using jumper wires, connect Pin 2 (+) and Pin 3 (-) to a 12-volt source (a 9V battery works, but 12V is better).
      • With voltage applied to the coil, you should NOW hear and feel the relay click, and have continuity between Pin 4 and Pin 5.
      • No click or no continuity when coil is powered = Bad relay.
      • Continuity when coil is NOT powered = Bad relay (contacts fused).

Replacing the Fuel Pump Relay in a 2001 Honda Accord

Once diagnosed as faulty, replacement is straightforward:

  1. Purchase: Get the correct replacement relay. The genuine Honda/Acura part number is 39400-SDA-A01 (Mitsuba MR-158 or equivalent). Denso, Standard Motor Products (SMP), and BWD also supply reliable replacements. Auto parts stores can usually cross-reference your VIN. Buy one identical in shape and pin configuration.
  2. Disconnect: Turn the ignition OFF. For safety, disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal. This isn't strictly necessary just for relay replacement but prevents any accidental shorts.
  3. Access: Remove the lower dash fuse box cover as before.
  4. Remove: Locate the old relay in Slot 16 (Position 6). Grip it firmly and pull it straight out from its socket. It should come out with moderate force.
  5. Install: Align the new relay exactly as the old one was positioned. Push it firmly straight down into the socket until it seats fully and clicks. Ensure it sits flush.
  6. Reassemble: Reattach the fuse box cover.
  7. Reconnect Battery: If disconnected, reconnect the negative battery cable.
  8. Test: Turn the ignition key to "ON". You should immediately hear the fuel pump prime for a few seconds. Start the engine. It should start normally. Take the car for a short test drive to confirm normal operation.

Important Distinction: Fuel Pump Relay vs. PGM-FI Main Relay

  • PGM-FI Main Relay (Slot 5): Powers the Engine Control Module (ECM/PCM) itself and other critical engine sensors. This relay is also located in the interior fuse box, often in Slot 5. Symptoms of its failure can be very similar to a bad fuel pump relay (crank/no-start, no prime noise), as the fuel pump relay often gets its signal from the ECM.
  • Confusion: Because earlier sixth-generation Accords sometimes had separate relays and later ones often combined functions into Slot 16, and because both the PGM-FI relay and fuel pump relay symptoms overlap, they are often mixed up. If replacing the relay in Slot 16 doesn't fix the issue, the PGM-FI relay in Slot 5 is the next critical component to test. Both relays look identical.

Other Possible Causes of No Fuel Delivery (Not the Relay)

While the relay is a common failure point, don't overlook these possibilities if replacing it doesn't solve the problem:

  1. Blown Fuel Pump Fuse: Check the 15A fuse dedicated to the fuel pump, usually located in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Look for the diagram label on the under-hood box cover. Replace if blown. Find it.
  2. Faulty Fuel Pump: The pump itself wears out over time and eventually fails. Test the pump directly. Check for power at the pump connector (usually under the rear seat bench) when the key is turned "ON".
  3. Faulty Inertia Switch: Accords have a fuel pump cut-off switch that triggers during sudden impact. It's usually in the passenger footwell or kick panel area. Reset the button.
  4. ECM/PCM Issues: A faulty engine control computer won't trigger the relay.
  5. Bad Ignition Switch: Can prevent signals from reaching the ECM or the relay coil.
  6. Wiring Problems: Corrosion, broken wires, or loose connections in the circuit between the battery, relay, pump, or ECM can cause identical symptoms. Inspect wiring harness connections.

Key Considerations When Addressing Fuel Pump Relay Issues

  1. Temperature Sensitivity: Relays often fail when hot (after driving) but work again once cooled. If your problem is intermittent and worse when the engine is warm, the relay is a likely suspect. Check while hot.
  2. OEM vs. Aftermarket: Genuine Honda/Acura relays (like Mitsuba) offer the highest reliability. However, reputable aftermarket brands (Denso, SMP, BWD) are generally good. Avoid unknown ultra-cheap brands. Quality matters.
  3. Spare Relay: Since many relays in your 2001 Accord are identical, you can usually swap a non-essential one (like rear defogger) to test or temporarily get running.
  4. Professional Help: If electrical testing or diagnosis feels beyond your comfort level, consult a qualified mechanic. Modern car electronics are complex. Get expert help if unsure.

Conclusion

A malfunctioning fuel pump relay is one of the most frequent causes of crank/no-start issues in the reliable sixth-generation Honda Accord. Thankfully, locating it inside the interior fuse box near the driver's left knee (Slot 16 / Position 6), testing it (either by swapping or multimeter), and replacing it are manageable tasks for many DIY owners. By familiarizing yourself with its location and function, you can potentially save significant repair costs. Always remember the close relationship between the fuel pump relay and the PGM-FI main relay (Slot 5) when diagnosing, and systematically rule out other potential causes like fuses, wiring, and the pump itself if the replacement relay doesn't resolve the issue. Addressing this common failure point swiftly will restore your 2001 Honda Accord to reliable service.

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