The 2007 Honda CR-V Fuel Pump Relay Location: Find It Fast & Fix Fuel Issues

For owners experiencing a no-start condition with their 2007 Honda CR-V, the fuel pump relay is overwhelmingly located in cavity #2 of the under-hood fuse and relay box. This primary electrical relay is critical for delivering power to the fuel pump. Knowing exactly where to find it is the first step in diagnosing fuel delivery problems, performing tests, or replacing a potentially faulty component that could leave you stranded.

Location Details: Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box, Cavity #2

• Access the Box: Open the hood of your 2007 Honda CR-V. The main fuse and relay box is situated on the driver's side near the battery. It's a rectangular, black plastic box with a removable cover.
• Open the Cover: Locate the clips or latches holding the cover in place. Unclip or unlatch them and carefully lift the cover off the box. Store it safely nearby. Many covers have a diagram on their underside showing the layout of fuses and relays.
• Identify Cavity #2: Look directly at the fuse/relay box with the fuses and relays exposed. Find the cavity marked #2. This cavity designation is often molded into the plastic of the box itself next to the slot. It might also be labeled as "PCM/FI" (Powertrain Control Module/Fuel Injection) or simply "Fuel Pump" on the cover diagram or sometimes near the socket.
• Recognize the Relay: The relay in cavity #2 is a standard ISO mini relay, typically black or gray, measuring about 1 inch x 1 inch x 1.25 inches. It will have four or five blade terminals on the bottom and a standard relay shape. It's identical in size and appearance to the other main relays in the box (like the fan relay or main relay, often found in cavity #1). Crucially, the location (cavity #2) is the identifying factor. Some boxes might have text labels directly on the box next to each cavity. For the 2007 CR-V, cavity #2 is designated for this critical fuel system relay.
• Visual Reference: Check the cover diagram. Most 2007 CR-V fuse box covers have a detailed diagram showing the positions and amperages of all fuses and the functions of the relay sockets. Confirm that cavity #2 is labeled for the fuel pump, PCM/FI, or similar. If your cover is missing or unreadable, rely on the cavity #2 marking molded directly into the plastic housing around the relay socket.

Why Finding the Fuel Pump Relay Matters

A faulty fuel pump relay is a very common cause of sudden "no-start" conditions in the 2007 Honda CR-V. Symptoms mimic a failed fuel pump itself:

• Engine Cranks But Won't Start: The starter motor turns the engine over, but the engine does not fire or run. You hear the starter engaging but nothing else.
• No Fuel Pump Prime Sound: When you first turn the ignition key to the "ON" (not start) position, you should hear a distinct humming or buzzing sound coming from the rear of the vehicle (near the fuel tank) for about 2-3 seconds. This is the fuel pump pressurizing the system. No prime sound is a strong indicator of a problem with the pump, the relay, or its circuit. A silent prime cycle is a key diagnostic clue pointing towards relay or pump issues.
• Intermitent Starting Issues: The car might start perfectly one day and then refuse to start the next. This erratic behavior can point to a relay with failing internal contacts. Heat cycles or vibration might cause the intermittent failure. These random occurrences can be frustrating but point directly to electrical component failure like a relay.

What the Fuel Pump Relay Actually Does

The fuel pump relay is an electromechanical switch controlled by your CR-V's Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Its job is critical:

1. Signal from PCM: When you turn the ignition key to "ON," the PCM sends a small electrical signal to the relay coil inside the relay. This low-power signal comes from the computer.
2. Coil Energized: This electrical signal creates a magnetic field that pulls internal switch contacts closed. This is the basic electromagnetic operating principle of a relay.
3. High-Current Path Created: Closing these contacts completes a separate high-current electrical circuit. This powerful circuit delivers battery power directly to the fuel pump motor mounted in the fuel tank. This high-current path is necessary to handle the electrical load of the pump motor.
4. Pump Runs: With power now flowing through the relay contacts, the fuel pump activates, pressurizes the fuel lines, and delivers gasoline to the engine's fuel injectors. Proper fuel pressure is essential for atomization and combustion within the engine cylinders.
5. PCM Control: The PCM continues to control the relay to maintain appropriate fuel pressure during engine operation, turning it off when the engine is stopped or doesn't need fuel delivery. This computer control ensures fuel is delivered only when necessary.

Diagnosing a Possible Bad Relay: Simple Checks Before Buying

If you suspect the relay might be faulty, you can perform some basic checks before purchasing a new one:

1. The Swap Test (Most Common & Practical): Because the 2007 CR-V uses identical ISO mini relays for several systems (like the radiator fan relay - often in cavity #1, the main relay - often in cavity #4, or the horn relay), you can temporarily swap a suspect relay with a known good one from another cavity that uses the same relay type.
   • Identify another relay with the same markings and shape (e.g., Fan Main Relay usually cavity #1, Main Relay cavity #4, Horn Relay).
   • Turn the ignition OFF.
   • Pull out the suspected fuel pump relay (cavity #2) and pull out the known good relay from another cavity.
   • Insert the known good relay firmly into cavity #2.
   • Turn the ignition to the ON position and listen for the fuel pump prime sound (2-3 seconds).
   • Try starting the engine.
   • If the pump now primes and the engine starts, your original fuel pump relay is likely faulty.
   • Important: Only swap with a relay that you know is good and is for a non-critical system. Do not leave the car without a relay crucial for driving (like the fan). Remember which relay came from where to avoid confusion later.
2. Visual Inspection: Remove the relay from cavity #2. Inspect it for obvious signs of damage:
   • Burn marks or melting on the plastic case.
   • Cracks or chips in the plastic housing.
   • Evidence of corrosion on the blade terminals (green or white powdery deposits). This can impede electrical flow.
3. Listen & Feel: With the relay removed, carefully shake it near your ear. If you hear loose parts rattling inside, the relay is damaged and must be replaced. Loose parts indicate mechanical failure internally.

Replacing the Fuel Pump Relay in Your 2007 CR-V

Replacement is straightforward once you've located cavity #2 and confirmed the relay is bad.

1. Obtain a New Relay:
   • Honda Part: The best option is the OEM Honda relay. Honda part numbers vary but common ones include 38500-SDB-A01 or 38510-R60-A01 - ALWAYS verify the correct part number for your specific VIN at a Honda parts counter or reputable online Honda parts dealer (like HondaPartsNow.com). Give them your VIN to confirm. Honda parts have a unique part number stamped on them or listed in catalogs.
   • Aftermarket Parts: Ensure you get a standard ISO Mini Relay. Reputable brands include Bosch, Denso (often the OEM supplier), Omron, and Hella. Verify it matches your old relay's terminal pin pattern and rating (usually 12v, 20-30A).
2. Ignition Off: Ensure the ignition key is completely OFF before handling any electrical components. This prevents shorts and potential injury.
3. Remove Old Relay: Locate it in cavity #2. Firmly grasp the relay body and pull it straight up and out from its socket. Do not twist or pry, as this can damage the socket connectors which are delicate. Grasp the relay firmly and pull vertically upward.
4. Install New Relay: Orient the new relay correctly – the pins must match the socket pattern. Look for subtle guides or asymmetries molded into the relay and socket. Push it firmly and evenly straight down into cavity #2 until you hear/feel a solid click, indicating it's fully seated. Confirm all terminals are properly engaged.
5. Test: Turn the ignition key to "ON" and listen for the fuel pump prime sound (a 2-3 second hum). If heard, try starting the engine. The engine should crank and fire if the relay was the issue. A successful prime sound after replacement strongly indicates the problem was indeed the relay.

Where NOT to Look: Avoiding Wild Goose Chases

Knowing where not to look saves significant time:

• Under the Dashboard/Front Kick Panels: While some vehicles have relay boxes near the driver's feet or knees, the primary location for the fuel pump relay in the 2007 CR-V is under the hood. Start here. The interior fuse box, typically located by the driver's left knee near the hood release, contains fuses and relays for interior systems (like power windows, radio, wipers), not the primary fuel pump relay. Do not confuse the two locations.
• Under the Rear Seat or Near the Fuel Tank: The relay is a control device; the fuel pump itself is in the tank. The relay needs to be easily accessible, usually near other engine controls and the battery. Don't remove interior panels unnecessarily.
• Cavities other than #2: While boxes can vary slightly between early and late 2007 models, cavity #2 is consistently designated for the fuel pump relay in the under-hood main box. The cover diagram and cavity markings are definitive. Focus here first.

Important Safety Precautions

• Battery Disconnection (Recommended for Relay Removal/Installation): While simple relay swapping often works with the battery connected, disconnecting the negative battery terminal guarantees there's no live power in the box, preventing accidental shorts or sparks when removing or inserting relays. This is especially important if handling multiple relays or if tools are nearby.
• Prevent Shock/Fire: Avoid touching other metal parts while handling fuses or relays. Ensure tools do not contact multiple terminals simultaneously. Use plastic tools or fuse pullers when possible.
• Correct Part: Installing the wrong relay type can cause electrical damage or component failure. Verify the replacement matches the original part specifications.

Understanding Related Components (To Know When It's NOT the Relay)

1. Fuel Pump: Located inside the fuel tank. A failed pump will also cause a no-start and no prime sound. Swapping the relay is the easiest way to test this. If a new relay doesn't fix the issue, the pump itself could be bad. Pump failure can be mechanical or electrical.
2. Fuel Pump Fuse: Provides circuit protection before the relay. Check the fuse box diagram for the location of the fuel pump fuse (often labeled "FI" or "Fuel Inj") in the under-hood fuse box. It's usually a smaller blade fuse (e.g., 15A). Remove it and inspect the metal strip inside – if it's broken, replace it with a fuse of the identical amperage rating. A blown fuse interrupts power entirely and prevents the relay from functioning.
3. Main Relay (PGM-FI): Located in the under-hood box (typically cavity #4). This relay supplies power to the ECM/PCM and the fuel pump relay's coil circuit. A failed Main Relay can also prevent the fuel pump relay from activating. Testing this requires checking power signals to the PCM. This relay failure causes multiple symptoms, not just fuel pump issues.
4. Ignition Switch: Provides the initial "ON" signal that triggers the PCM to activate the fuel pump relay. Faults can be complex. Difficult to test without diagnostic tools.
5. ECM/PCM: The computer could theoretically fail to command the relay on, though this is less common than relay failure itself. Requires professional diagnostic equipment to verify internal computer signals.

When Professional Help is Needed

While locating and swapping the relay is generally simple, seek a qualified mechanic if:

• You are uncomfortable working near the battery or electrical components. Electricity requires respect.
• Swapping relays doesn't resolve the problem and you need further diagnostics (checking pump power, pressure, computer signals). A mechanic has specialized tools like multimeters and pressure gauges.
• The engine still cranks but doesn't start even if you hear the fuel pump prime. This indicates other issues (spark, air, compression, injectors). Pinpointing the cause requires experience.
• You suspect an issue with the wiring harness or PCM. Wire damage or computer issues need expert troubleshooting.

Conclusion: Cavity #2 is Key

The fuel pump relay for your 2007 Honda CR-V is consistently found in cavity #2 of the under-hood fuse and relay box, typically located near the battery. Memorizing this location – cavity #2 – empowers you to quickly diagnose and potentially solve one of the most common causes of a no-start condition. Identify it visually using the cover diagram and cavity markings. Performing a simple relay swap test is often the fastest way to confirm if this vital $10-$30 component is the culprit before tackling more involved or expensive repairs. Knowing this specific location saves time and effort when fuel delivery problems strike your CR-V. Always verify relay function through testing before assuming replacement is needed, but when it fails, a quick change in cavity #2 can get you back on the road fast. Remember to disconnect the battery for maximum safety during any electrical work.