The 2010 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse: Location, Symptoms, Replacement & Everything You Need to Know

The location and status of your 2010 F150's fuel pump fuse is critical to your truck starting and running. If your F150 won't start, cranks but won't fire, or experiences unexpected stalling, a blown fuel pump fuse is one of the most common and easily checked culprits. The fuel pump fuse is designed to protect the electrical circuit powering the fuel pump – a crucial component that delivers gasoline from the tank to the engine at high pressure. When this fuse blows, it instantly cuts power to the pump, halting fuel delivery and stopping the engine. This guide provides the definitive location for the 2010 F150 fuel pump fuse, details the signs of a blown fuse, explains exactly how to test and replace it safely, and outlines associated components you should check.

Where is the Fuel Pump Fuse Located on a 2010 F150?

The fuel pump fuse is found in the Battery Junction Box (BJB), also commonly referred to as the main power distribution center or engine compartment fuse box. Here's how to locate it precisely:

  1. Open the Hood: Secure the hood prop rod.
  2. Locate the Battery Junction Box (BJB): Stand at the front of your truck, looking towards the engine. The BJB is a large, black plastic box, rectangular in shape, positioned on the driver's side (left side) of the engine compartment, very close to the vehicle's battery. It sits mounted on the inner fender wall or radiator support, typically near the brake master cylinder reservoir.
  3. Remove the Cover: The BJB has a lid secured by plastic clips or friction latches. Press the tabs or gently pry near the edges to release the lid and lift it off. Set the lid aside safely. You will now see numerous fuses and relays arranged in rows within the box.
  4. Identify the Fuel Pump Fuse: Look for the fuse label chart, usually printed on the underside of the BJB lid you just removed. DO NOT rely solely on generic fuse location charts online, as configurations vary slightly between trim levels and engine types. Check the lid chart carefully.
  5. Finding the Fuse Using the Chart: For the 2010 F150, the fuel pump fuse is commonly listed as either:
    • Fuse #27 (30 Amp - Yellow)
    • Fuse #108 (20 Amp - Yellow)
    • Note: Some sources reference an "FP" or "Fuel Pump Driver Module" fuse as well, which is also involved. Checking both is wise.
  6. Confirm Physically: After identifying the fuse number on the lid chart, locate the corresponding slot within the BJB. Match the number on the chart to the number molded into the plastic beside each fuse slot. The most reliable indicator is often the fuse amp rating and color: The fuel pump fuse is frequently a 30 Amp MINI fuse (Yellow) and potentially a 20 Amp MINI fuse (Yellow). Visually inspect the fuse indicated on your specific truck's lid chart. Compare its physical condition to others nearby – a blown fuse will often have a visibly broken or melted element inside the clear plastic top section, though not always. Sometimes soot marks may also be visible on top of the fuse or on the fuse box contacts.

Symptoms of a Blown 2010 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse

A blown fuel pump fuse cuts power instantly to the pump, leading to specific symptoms:

  1. Engine Cranks but Won't Start (Most Common): The starter turns the engine, but it refuses to fire up. You may hear the starter engaging strongly, but no sputtering or attempt to run. This happens because no fuel reaches the engine cylinders.
  2. Sudden Engine Stall While Driving: The truck might abruptly lose power and shut off while in motion, especially noticeable during acceleration or when pulling away from a stop. It won't restart.
  3. No Engine Start or Crank: In less common instances, a severe short circuit causing the fuse to blow might also affect other circuits, potentially leading to a complete lack of response when turning the key.
  4. No Sound from the Fuel Pump: With the ignition turned to the "ON" position (not start), you should normally hear a distinct whirring or humming sound coming from the rear of the truck (fuel tank area) for 2-3 seconds as the pump primes the system. If you hear no sound at all, it suggests a lack of power to the pump, possibly due to a blown fuse. CAUTION: While this is a good check, it requires a quiet environment and good hearing; a faulty pump itself can also be silent even if power is present.

How to Test the 2010 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse (Safely & Accurately)

Don't rely solely on a visual inspection. Follow these steps to test the fuse properly:

  1. Gather Tools: You'll need an automotive test light or a multimeter (set to measure continuity or resistance). Basic needle-nose pliers or fuse puller are also useful.
  2. Locate Fuse: Use the lid chart and fuse location numbers to identify the correct fuse(s) – #27, #108, etc., as per your truck's chart.
  3. Test Light Method:
    • Turn the ignition switch to the "OFF" position for safety.
    • Clip the test light's ground clamp to an unpainted metal bolt/surface on the vehicle's chassis or engine block.
    • Turn the ignition switch back to the "ON" position (do not start the engine).
    • Touch the pointed probe end of the test light to each metal tab on top of the suspected fuel pump fuse.
    • Result: The test light should illuminate brightly when touched to BOTH metal tabs on the top of the fuse. If it lights on one tab but not the other, the fuse is blown. If it doesn't light on either tab (and you know your test light ground is good and working on another circuit), then the problem might be upstream (lack of power to the fuse box itself).
  4. Multimeter Method (Continuity):
    • Remove the fuse from the box (use fuse puller tool or needle-nose pliers gently).
    • Set the multimeter to the continuity setting (usually indicated by a speaker/sound wave symbol). This setting checks if electricity can flow through the fuse. A good fuse will produce a beep or show near zero ohms resistance.
    • Touch one multimeter probe to each metal blade on the fuse.
    • Result: If the multimeter beeps or shows very low resistance (like 0.0 - 0.3 ohms), the fuse is good. If it shows "O.L." (Open Loop) or very high resistance (like >10K ohms), the fuse is blown.
  5. Multimeter Method (Voltage):
    • Turn ignition to "ON".
    • Set multimeter to measure DC Volts, at least 20V scale.
    • Touch the black probe to a good ground.
    • Touch the red probe to each metal tab on top of the fuse while it's still seated in the box.
    • Result: You should read battery voltage (around 12-14V) on both tabs if the fuse is good. If you get voltage on only one tab, the fuse is blown. No voltage on either tab indicates a problem supplying power to the fuse box itself.

How to Replace a Blown 2010 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse

  1. Turn Ignition OFF: Ensure the key is removed or is in the OFF position.
  2. Identify the Correct Replacement Fuse: THIS IS CRITICAL. The replacement fuse MUST match the amp rating specified on the BJB lid chart exactly for the Fuel Pump circuit. DO NOT substitute a fuse with a higher amp rating (e.g., replacing a 20A fuse with a 30A). Using a higher-rated fuse removes the circuit protection, significantly increasing the risk of severe electrical damage or fire if the underlying short circuit persists. Using a lower-rated fuse will cause it to blow again immediately. The physical size (MINI, MICRO2, MAXI) must also match perfectly.
  3. Remove the Blown Fuse: Using a dedicated automotive fuse puller tool (preferred) or small needle-nose pliers, grasp the blown fuse firmly and pull it straight up out of its socket. Avoid twisting or excessive force. If it's stuck, rock it gently side-to-side while pulling up.
  4. Insert the New Fuse: Holding the new fuse (confirm amp rating and size!), align it carefully with the empty slot in the BJB and push it down firmly until it seats fully. Ensure it sits level with adjacent fuses.
  5. Recheck Operation: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position and listen for the fuel pump prime (2-3 second whine/hum from the rear). If you hear it, attempt to start the engine. If the truck starts normally, proceed to the next crucial step.
  6. Determine Cause: A fuse doesn't blow without reason. Replacing it fixes the immediate lack of power, but if the underlying problem (a short circuit or excessive current draw) remains, the new fuse will likely blow again shortly, often within moments or miles. You must investigate why the fuse blew.

Why Did the Fuel Pump Fuse Blow? Common Causes on the 2010 F150

Understanding the cause is essential to prevent immediate recurrence and potential damage:

  1. Aging or Weak Fuse (Less Common): Fuses can deteriorate over time, especially with constant thermal cycling under the hood. This is less likely than a circuit problem.
  2. Overloaded Circuit:
    • Faulty Fuel Pump: The most common cause by far. An internal short circuit within the fuel pump motor itself can directly cause a massive current surge that blows the fuse. Wear and tear, overheating, or contamination (water, debris) within the tank can lead to this failure. Pumps nearing the end of their life might draw excessive current just before failing.
    • Chafed/Damaged Wiring: Wiring in the circuit supplying power to the fuel pump can become damaged over time. Common points include where the harness passes through sheet metal (firewall, floor pan), rubs against other components or the frame, or where it flexes near the fuel tank hanger. Exposed copper wires touching the chassis create a short circuit to ground, blowing the fuse instantly. Corrosion from road salt or moisture can also damage insulation and conductors.
    • Damaged Electrical Connectors: The fuel pump has a multi-pin electrical connector at the top of the tank assembly. If this connector is damaged, water-injected (e.g., driving through deep water), or heavily corroded, it can cause short circuits between terminals or poor connections that lead to excessive heat and resistance, potentially blowing the fuse.
  3. Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) Failure: Equipped on certain F150 models and engine configurations, the FPDM acts as a control unit for the fuel pump. Located either near the spare tire under the bed or mounted on the frame rail near the fuel tank, its function is to modulate pump speed for demand. Internal FPDM failure (like a short circuit) can directly cause the fuse to blow. This component is prone to corrosion damage from road salt and water exposure.
  4. Relay Failure (Indirect Cause): While the fuel pump relay failure itself doesn't typically blow the fuse (a failed relay usually just stops working, cutting power through the relay contacts without affecting the fuse), a seized relay could potentially cause abnormal current flow contributing to failure, or it could be symptomatic of a larger electrical issue.

What Else to Check If the Fuse is Good (Truck Still Won't Start/Stalls)

If the fuel pump fuse tests good and the truck still exhibits symptoms (no start, stall), the fault lies elsewhere in the fuel or electrical system:

  1. Fuel Pump Relay: The relay (located in the BJB next to the fuses) acts as the switch that actually turns the fuel pump on and off using a low-power signal from the truck's computer. Test it or swap it with an identical relay (like the horn relay – verify amp rating first!).
  2. Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM): If equipped. Check for severe corrosion or water damage to the module housing and connector. Testing requires specific procedures, often related to voltage checks at the pump connector.
  3. Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch: Designed to cut fuel during an impact, this small button is usually located on the passenger side kick panel inside the cabin or sometimes near the BJB under the hood. Verify its button isn't triggered (should be "Reset" or depressed). Press the reset button firmly even if it doesn't look popped.
  4. Fuel Pump Itself: If the fuse and relay are good, and power is confirmed reaching the pump connector but the pump still isn't running (and you hear no prime sound), the pump motor has likely failed. Testing requires confirming voltage at the pump connector (accessible near the top of the tank) when the key is turned ON. CAUTION: This involves working near flammable fuel vapors – take extreme precautions (disconnect battery, work in ventilated area, avoid sparks).
  5. Fuel Pressure: Even if the pump runs, it may not be generating sufficient pressure due to internal wear, a clogged filter/sock, or a leaking pressure regulator. A fuel pressure gauge attached to the test port on the fuel rail (if equipped) is the best diagnostic tool. Pressure specifications vary by engine.
  6. Electrical Grounds: Poor ground connections throughout the vehicle, particularly those related to the engine or fuel pump circuit, can cause erratic operation. Check chassis ground points near the battery and engine block. Look for looseness, rust, or damaged cables/straps.
  7. Engine Control System: Issues like a faulty crankshaft position sensor (CKP), no power to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), or other critical engine management faults can prevent fuel pump operation even if the pump circuit itself is intact. The PCM typically triggers the relay. Scan for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) using an OBD-II scanner.

Preventing Future Fuel Pump Fuse Issues on Your 2010 F150

  1. Avoid Running the Tank Dry: Continuously running with very low fuel can cause the pump to overheat due to inadequate cooling/lubrication (gasoline acts as a coolant/lubricant). This accelerates wear and increases the risk of premature failure and fuse blowing. Keep the tank at least 1/4 full.
  2. Regular Fuel Filter Replacement: While the main fuel filter was eliminated on many models (including the 2010 F150 - it relies only on the pump's internal strainer "sock"), if yours has an inline filter, follow the manufacturer's replacement schedule. A severely clogged filter strains the pump excessively. If you have an aftermarket inline filter, ensure it's replaced per its schedule.
  3. Use Quality Fuel: Reputable stations generally offer fuel meeting specifications with adequate detergents. Consistently poor quality fuel may contribute to deposits over time.
  4. Address Wiring Concerns Promptly: If you see any damaged wiring harnesses or connectors related to the fuel system, have them repaired immediately by a professional. Preventative application of dielectric grease to connectors vulnerable to corrosion (like the FPDM if equipped) can help deter moisture intrusion.
  5. Keep Spare Fuses: Carry spare fuel pump fuses of the exact correct rating (20A and 30A MINI fuses for the 2010 F150 are highly advisable) in your truck's glove box, along with a fuse puller tool.
  6. Inspect the FPDM Area (if equipped): Periodically check the area where the Fuel Pump Driver Module is mounted for signs of water pooling, heavy corrosion on the module, or rodent damage. Cleaning debris away from drain holes near its location (often near the spare tire) can help.

Conclusion: Your Fuse is Key to Fuel Delivery

The 2010 F150 fuel pump fuse (#27 and/or #108 - confirm with your BJB lid chart!) residing in the engine compartment Battery Junction Box is the first electrical checkpoint when facing a no-start or sudden stall situation. Its specific location makes it relatively easy to access. Recognizing the symptoms (cranking/no start, sudden stall), knowing how to find and test the fuse accurately (don't just visually inspect!), and replacing it with the correct amp rating are essential DIY skills. However, the critical step is always identifying why the fuse blew. More often than not, a failing fuel pump or damaged wiring is the root cause. Simply replacing the fuse without diagnosis may provide a temporary restart but almost guarantees the problem will recur rapidly and potentially lead to more significant damage or safety hazards. Systematically checking the relay, inspecting accessible wiring, listening for pump prime, evaluating the FPDM (if applicable), and confirming the inertia switch are the logical next steps to get your 2010 Ford F-150 reliably back on the road.

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