The 2012 Dodge Avenger Fuel Pump Relay Location & Everything You Need to Fix It

Finding the fuel pump relay is your critical first step when diagnosing a no-start Dodge Avenger. For the 2012 Dodge Avenger, the fuel pump relay is located inside the underhood Power Distribution Center (PDC), specifically in position R6. Don't waste time searching inside the cabin or tearing apart the dash. The Power Distribution Center is that large black plastic box sitting prominently in your engine compartment. Open its lid, look at the underside where the relay positions are clearly numbered and labeled – "R6" is your target. This relay is a relatively small, typically black or gray cube-shaped component designed to handle the high current required by your fuel pump. Knowing exactly where it is and how to access it forms the cornerstone of addressing fuel delivery issues.

Why Finding the 2012 Dodge Avenger Fuel Pump Relay Location Matters So Much

The fuel pump relay is fundamentally an electronically controlled switch. Its singular job is to act as the gatekeeper for electrical power flowing from your Avenger’s battery to the fuel pump itself. When you turn the ignition to the "RUN" position, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), your car's central computer, sends a signal to activate this relay. The relay then clicks closed internally, completing the high-current circuit directly from the battery (through the main battery fuse) along dedicated heavy-gauge wiring straight to the fuel pump motor mounted inside your fuel tank. Without a properly functioning relay receiving the PCM signal and sending that power down the line, the fuel pump simply doesn't operate. No pump operation means zero fuel pressure reaches the engine, resulting in a cranking engine that refuses to start. Locating this relay quickly isn't just convenient; it's absolutely essential for efficient troubleshooting when you suspect fuel delivery problems. Knowing precisely where R6 sits saves potentially hours of frustration.

Getting Access to the Avenger’s Power Distribution Center (PDC)

  1. Find the Box: Pop the hood. Locate the large, rectangular black plastic box almost always mounted on the driver's side of the engine compartment, near the firewall or fender. It’s hard to miss. This is the Power Distribution Center (PDC), essentially the main electrical hub under your hood.
  2. Open the Lid: Examine the lid. You’ll see latches or clips holding it securely in place. Squeeze the latches firmly or press the clips inwards (the exact mechanism can vary slightly) while simultaneously lifting the lid upwards. It should come off cleanly.
  3. Identify the Layout: Once open, you’ll face a complex layout. Direct your attention immediately to the underside of the lid you just removed. Crucially, Dodge prints a detailed diagram directly onto this underside. This diagram is your essential map, showing the positions, numbers, and often the functions of every fuse and relay housed within the PDC. This is far more reliable than relying on generic internet pictures, as configuration can vary slightly even within the same model year. If the diagram is worn or faded, you might need a flashlight angled carefully to read it.
  4. Find Position R6: Methodically scan the diagram. Look for the "Relay" section (usually marked "R"). Locate the specific position labeled "R6". The diagram should explicitly state "Fuel Pump" or "FP" next to R6, confirming you’ve found the right one. Position numbers are usually arranged in a grid pattern for easy location.
  5. Locate R6 in the Actual Box: Now, look down into the open PDC itself. Match the physical position R6 on the box’s relay panel to its position shown on the lid diagram. You’ll see other relays plugged into their respective positions. R6 is one of them. The physical relays themselves are uniform black or gray plastic cubes; their function is determined solely by their socket position within the PDC.

What the 2012 Dodge Avenger Fuel Pump Relay Actually Looks Like

Once visually located in position R6, the fuel pump relay itself is a standardized component:

  • Shape: Square or slightly rectangular cube. This is a common form factor for automotive relays, often called a "ISO Micro Relay" or similar based on industry standards.
  • Size: Roughly 1 inch wide by 1 inch long and maybe 0.8 to 1 inch high – essentially the size of the top part of your thumb.
  • Color: Most often solid black or occasionally dark gray plastic casing. The color isn't a diagnostic indicator.
  • Terminals: On the bottom, you'll see multiple metal blade terminals protruding downward. These plug into the matching socket in the PDC. Four or five terminals are common.
  • Markings: It may have very small numerical codes molded into the plastic, often matching a part number (like 68061852AA, 68055650AA, 68015961AA – specific part numbers can vary slightly based on exact build date or manufacturer). More importantly, you might see the Amperage rating (e.g., 20A, 25A, 30A) and a diagram showing the internal switch pin layout (Terminals 85, 86, 87, 30, sometimes 87a).
  • Crucial Point: Its identity is defined by its location in R6. An identical looking relay in position R2 (for example) controls something entirely different (like the starter). Always confirm position!

Is It the Relay? Testing Your 2012 Avenger’s Fuel Pump Relay

Finding R6 is half the battle; knowing if the relay inside is the culprit is the other half. Here’s a methodical approach:

  1. The "Click" Test (Simple but Not Definitive):

    • Have an assistant turn the ignition key to the "RUN" position (don't crank). You listen carefully near the open PDC.
    • You should hear an audible, distinct "CLICK" coming from the area of the R6 relay within about 1-2 seconds of the key reaching RUN. This click signals the relay coil (the control circuit) is activating – the electromagnet inside is pulling the internal switch closed.
    • If You Hear the Click: This means the control circuit (PCM signal and relay coil windings) is likely working. The problem could still be the relay's switched contacts (burnt and not conducting power) OR a problem further downstream (fuel pump fuse, wiring, fuel pump itself). Move to physical testing or swap testing.
    • If You DON'T Hear the Click: This strongly indicates a problem before the relay – potentially a blown PCM driver circuit (less common), bad wiring to the relay coil, or a completely dead relay coil. Check fuse F15 (if equipped, check your specific diagram for the PCM/Engine fuse - often a 20A) which powers the PCM and its relay drivers. Then proceed with further relay testing or swap testing.

  2. Swap Testing (The Simplest Effective Check - Use Caution):

    • Find a Candidate: Refer to the diagram on your PDC lid. Look for an identical relay that has the exact same part number or same amperage rating and the same terminal configuration (look at the little diagram molded on it). Common safe swaps often include the horn relay (R1) or sometimes the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay (R3) – ONLY swap a relay confirmed by the diagram to be the same part number as R6! Swapping a different relay can cause damage or malfunctions.
    • Perform the Swap: Turn the ignition OFF. Carefully pull the known identical relay (e.g., horn relay) straight out of its socket. Gently pull the suspected fuel pump relay (R6) out of its socket. Plug the known good relay (e.g., horn relay) into the R6 fuel pump socket. Plug the old R6 relay into the other socket you took the good one from (e.g., horn socket).
    • Test: Turn the ignition to RUN. Try to start the engine.
    • If the Engine Starts: This confirms the original relay in R6 was faulty. Replace it. Remember to put the good relay back in its original socket.
    • If the Engine Does NOT Start: The problem likely lies elsewhere. Possibilities include: blown fuse supplying R6, damaged wiring, bad connection at the PDC socket, or a failed fuel pump.

  3. Physical Inspection (Good Basic Step):

    • Remove the relay from its R6 socket.
    • Examine the plastic housing for obvious cracks, melt marks, or burns. Severe overheating is a clear sign of failure.
    • Look at the metal blade terminals. Are they corroded? Are they darkened, charred, or pitted? Significant discoloration or pitting indicates burnt contacts that likely can't carry the necessary current.
    • Gently try wiggling the terminals. Do any feel loose inside the plastic? Loose terminals mean intermittent connection.

  4. Multimeter Testing (For the Tech-Savvy):

    • You need a digital multimeter (DMM).
    • Test the Relay Coil:
      • Set your DMM to measure resistance (Ohms Ω).
      • Find the relay coil control terminals on the relay base. These are almost always labeled or shown on the relay's own diagram as 85 and 86.
      • Touch one probe to terminal 85, the other to 86. You should read resistance – typically between 50 Ohms and 120 Ohms. Low resistance (e.g., 0Ω) indicates a shorted coil. Infinite resistance (OL) indicates an open coil. Either way, the relay is bad.
    • Test the Switched Contacts:
      • Set your DMM to test for continuity (the beep mode).
      • Find the common power input terminal (30) and the normally open load terminal (87). Often, 87a is a different terminal used for changeover relays, but the Avenger fuel pump relay typically uses 30 and 87.
      • With the relay de-energized (no power), test between 30 and 87. You should have NO continuity (no beep, OL reading). This confirms the contacts are open when the relay isn't activated.
      • To Activate the Relay: You need a separate power source – a 9V battery works well, or use fused jumper wires from the car battery. Apply POSITIVE voltage to terminal 86. Apply NEGATIVE voltage to terminal 85. You should hear and feel the relay CLICK closed.
      • While powering terminals 85 and 86, test continuity between 30 and 87. You should now have good continuity (a beep, low Ohms reading like 0.0 or 0.1Ω). No continuity here, or very high resistance, means the internal switch contacts are burned, pitted, or completely failed. The relay needs replacement.

Don't Overlook the Fuse: The Critical Link in the Power Chain

  • Location: The power for the entire fuel pump circuit, which the relay ultimately switches, comes directly from the main battery cable attached to the PDC. This power flows into the PDC bus bars and is protected by a dedicated large fuse specifically for the fuel pump circuit. Crucially, this fuse is ALSO located inside the same underhood PDC, almost always positioned as fuse number 27 (F27). Refer relentlessly to your PDC lid diagram to confirm F27 is labeled for the "Fuel Pump" or "FP."
  • Function: This fuse acts as the first line of defense. If excessive current flows due to a short circuit (like the fuel pump motor seizing, or wiring getting pinched and grounding out), this high-amperage fuse will blow ("pop") instantly. Its purpose is to sacrifice itself to protect the expensive wiring harness and prevent a fire.
  • Inspection: Visually inspect Fuse 27 (F27). It looks like a standard automotive blade fuse, but significantly larger than the mini fuses inside the car – usually a "Maxi" or "JCASE" type fuse rated at 20A, 25A, or 30A (exact size and rating are shown on the fuse body). Pull it out if needed. Look for a clear break in the metal link visible through the plastic window. If blown, the metal element will be melted or severed. Using your multimeter set to continuity (beep mode) across the fuse’s metal blade ends is the most reliable way to check. A good fuse will beep, a blown fuse will not. Replacing a blown fuse without determining and fixing the cause is dangerous and futile. It will blow again immediately.

Replacing the 2012 Dodge Avenger Fuel Pump Relay

  1. Purchase: Get the correct replacement relay. Options:
    • Dealer Parts Department: Give them your VIN. Ensures OEM exact match.
    • Auto Parts Store: Tell them the year, make, model. Ask for the fuel pump relay. Specify it’s a Micro ISO relay for position R6. Provide the old relay’s part number if visible. Confirm the new relay has the identical pin layout and amperage rating. Key brands include Mopar, Standard Motor Products (SMR), Bosch, Denso.
  2. Removal: With the ignition OFF, locate R6. Grip the relay firmly at its top and bottom. Pull it straight upwards out of the socket. Don't wiggle excessively. It requires some force, but shouldn't feel like it's glued in.
  3. Installation: Take the new relay. Orient it correctly. Match the terminals/pins to the pattern of the socket R6. Push it firmly and straight down until it clicks and seats completely. Don't force it; mismatched orientation will prevent it from going in.
  4. Verification: Double-check the relay is fully seated and in the correct socket (R6!). Close the PDC lid securely. Turn the ignition to RUN and listen for the relay click and the brief hum of the fuel pump priming. Attempt to start the engine.

Why Isn’t the Fuel Pump Running? Troubleshooting Beyond the Relay

A correctly functioning relay and fuse are necessary, but not sufficient by themselves. If replacing the relay and confirming fuse F27 is good still doesn't get your fuel pump running, explore further:

  1. Check Fuel Pump Grounds: Every circuit needs a complete path. Bad ground connections for the fuel pump module (located near the tank) cause failure. Locate the grounding points (consult repair manual diagrams). Clean mounting points and terminals thoroughly. Test ground connection resistance using a multimeter.
  2. Inspect Wiring Harnesses: Visually examine the wiring leading rearward from the PDC towards the fuel tank. Look for obvious damage, chafing against metal, rodents chewing wires, or disconnected plugs. Pay special attention to wiring near the fuel tank access door/fuel filter area under the car. Use a wiring diagram and multimeter to check for power at the fuel pump connector when the relay should be engaged. Test for continuity in key wires.
  3. Diagnose Fuel Pump Voltage: The definitive test. Gain access to the electrical connector at the fuel pump (usually through an access panel under the rear seat or cargo area carpet). Back-probe the connector's power wire (refer to wiring diagram/pinout) with a multimeter. Have an assistant turn the ignition to RUN. You MUST see close to battery voltage (approx. 12V) for just 1-2 seconds. If you see voltage, but the pump doesn't run, the pump itself is likely dead. If you see no voltage, you have an open circuit between the PDC output and the pump connector despite a good relay and fuse. If voltage is significantly low (less than 10.5V), high resistance exists somewhere.
  4. Verify PCM Signal: Is the PCM actually commanding the relay to activate? This requires an advanced scan tool capable of actuating relays or monitoring PCM output states, or sophisticated multimeter tracing at the relay socket on terminal 85 or 86 during key-on. Lack of signal points to PCM issues (sensor inputs preventing activation, internal fault) or wiring problems in the control circuit. Suspect a crank or cam sensor failing to tell the PCM the engine is turning, thus not activating the relay? Rare, but possible.
  5. Confirm Fuel Pump Function: If voltage reliably reaches the pump harness connector during prime and the ground path is good, the pump motor itself is almost certainly seized or burned out. Perform an amp draw test (requires ammeter clamp) or a pump bench test once removed. Directly connecting known battery voltage and ground to the pump terminals (safely away from fumes) is the final confirmation. No spin = dead pump. Internal shorting can also explain a blown fuse.

Safety First! Critical Precautions When Working on the Fuel System

The fuel system is inherently hazardous. Ignoring safety can lead to fires, explosions, and severe injury.

  • No Sparks/Flames: Never work with batteries or electrical circuits near an open fuel system. Absolutely no smoking. Keep open flames and sparks far away.
  • Work in Ventilated Area: Engine compartment work should be done outdoors or in a very well-ventilated garage. Fuel vapors are heavier than air and can pool.
  • Relieve Fuel Pressure: Before disconnecting ANY fuel line (like at a filter or rail), relieve system pressure. Locate the fuel pressure test port (Schrader valve on the engine fuel rail). Cover it with a thick rag. Press the center pin slowly to vent pressure. Capture fuel in the rag safely. Wait.
  • Disconnect Battery: Always disconnect the NEGATIVE battery terminal before working on any significant electrical components (especially when accessing wiring near the pump or replacing the pump itself) to prevent sparks.
  • Use Correct Tools: Use flare wrenches on fuel line fittings to avoid rounding them off. Avoid cheap connectors. Ensure replacement parts meet specifications. Don't jury-rig wiring.

Related Components Often Mistaken for the Fuel Pump Relay

  • Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM): Some vehicles (Ford, Chrysler earlier TIPM systems) use these complex control modules. The 2012 Avenger does NOT have a separate FPDM. Control is directly from the PCM via the relay in the PDC.
  • Automatic Shutdown Relay (ASD): Position R3 in the Avenger's PDC. Powers injectors, ignition coils, and the fuel pump relay coil. Vital component – if it fails, multiple systems die. Check fuse F09 for ASD.
  • Engine Control Module (ECM/PCM): The computer itself. Rarely physically fails but can have internal driver circuit faults preventing relay activation. Diagnose thoroughly before suspecting PCM.
  • Ignition Relay: Controls power to the PCM, dash, etc. If bad, you get zero ignition function at all (no dash lights even). Position varies (often R2 or similar in PDC).

Signs Your 2012 Avenger's Fuel Pump Relay is Failing

  • No Start Condition: The most obvious. Engine cranks strong but never fires up. Often no priming pump sound. Consistent failure or intermittent failure after starting.
  • Engine Stalls Unexpectedly: Intermittent relay failure causes sudden power cut to the pump while driving, leading to immediate stall. May restart later after cooling down.
  • Intermittent Starting Problems: Sometimes the car starts fine, other times it cranks and cranks without starting. Related to relay temperature or loose internal contacts.
  • Lack of Fuel Pump Prime Noise: During normal operation, you faintly hear a brief hum/whine from the rear when turning ignition to RUN. Absence is a key indicator. Note: On Avengers, listening carefully near the fuel filler door can sometimes catch this sound.
  • Relay Audibly Clicking On/Off: Unusual clicking or buzzing sound originating directly from the R6 relay area underhood.

Long-Term Reliability: Preventing Future Relay Failure

  • Use Quality Parts: Avoid cheap generic relays from unknown sources. Stick with reputable brands (Mopar, SMP, Bosch) purchased from reliable suppliers.
  • Water Intrusion Prevention: Ensure the PDC lid is sealed correctly. Look for cracks in the box or lid seal. Water getting into relays causes corrosion and premature failure. If fuses inside show corrosion, that's a major red flag.
  • Avoid Overheating: Keep the PDC area reasonably clear. Overheating from engine bay temperatures stresses electrical components. Ensure cooling fans operate correctly. Don't pile rags or debris near the box.
  • Address Electrical Gremlins Promptly: If experiencing other odd electrical issues like flickering lights or sensors acting up, investigate grounding problems and wiring issues. Poor system voltage or high resistance creates stress on relays.

Understanding the Entire Fuel Pump Circuit Flow (From Battery to Pump)

Knowing the sequence helps diagnose where breaks occur:

  1. Battery: The ultimate power source. Connected via heavy cable to the PDC main bus.
  2. Fuse F27 (PDC): Protects the high-current circuit from the PDC to the pump.
  3. Relay R6 (PDC): The switch. When closed by the PCM signal, it connects...
  4. Wire from R6 Terminal 87: Heavy gauge wire carries power from the relay output out of the PDC...
  5. Fuel Pump Module (Tank): Power enters the fuel pump module assembly mounted on top of the fuel tank (accessed from inside the car).
  6. Fuel Pump Motor: Located submerged inside the fuel tank inside the module. Powers on when supplied with voltage.
  7. Ground Circuit: Completes the path back to the battery negative terminal through chassis grounding points. Critical!

Tools You Absolutely Need for Fuel Pump Relay Diagnostics

  • Basic Hand Tools (for access panels, battery terminal).
  • Flashlight (essential for seeing into the PDC and diagrams).
  • Digital Multimeter (DMM) – Must have Continuity/Diodes, Resistance (Ω), and Voltage (VDC) settings.
  • Automotive Test Light (simple but effective for presence of power/ground).
  • Needle Nose Pliers or Relay Puller (for stubborn relays).
  • Wiring Diagrams for your specific Avenger build (Invest in a quality Factory Service Manual PDF or subscription service like AllDataDIY/Chilton/Mitchell1). Guessing won't cut it.

Visual Reference is Key: Utilizing Diagrams Effectively

  • PDC Lid Diagram: Your instant, vehicle-specific guide. Master its layout and symbols.
  • Overall Wiring Diagram: Essential for tracing complex circuits beyond the PDC. Pinpoints wire colors, connectors (C-##, C-##), splice locations (S-##), and physical routes through the vehicle frame. This reveals potential problem areas and provides the correct pinouts for voltage/continuity testing. Without it, you're blindfolded.
  • Ground Location Diagrams: Critical for testing the return path to the battery. Shows precisely where grounds attach to the chassis.

Knowing the 2012 Dodge Avenger fuel pump relay location (PDC position R6) gives you the power to tackle one of the most common causes of a non-starting vehicle. Mastering its testing and replacement empowers you to fix a critical failure point quickly. Always prioritize safety, systematically verify related components like the essential Fuel Pump fuse (F27), and move logically through the circuit. When the Avenger cranks silently without starting, your path to fixing it starts right under the hood in that Power Distribution Center box.

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