The Complete Step-by-Step Guide to DIY 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump Replacement

A failing fuel pump in your 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee will cause engine sputtering, loss of power, hard starting, or a complete failure to start. Replacing the fuel pump assembly requires accessing it through the fuel tank, which means dropping the tank from underneath the vehicle. This is a demanding DIY job requiring mechanical aptitude, time, patience, and strict adherence to safety procedures to handle gasoline safely. Allow 4-8 hours for the complete replacement process.

Fuel pumps deliver gasoline from the tank to the engine under precise pressure. Over time, wear and tear, contaminated fuel, or running the tank consistently low can cause the electric motor inside the pump assembly to fail. Symptoms include the engine cranking but not starting, sputtering at high speeds or under load, a whining noise from the tank, and a noticeable loss of power. Diagnosing a failing fuel pump usually involves checking fuel pressure with a gauge at the test port on the fuel rail, accessible under the hood.

Understanding the Fuel Pump Assembly: The fuel pump in your 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee isn't just a pump. It's an integrated module located inside the fuel tank. This assembly includes the electric fuel pump itself, the fuel level sending unit (which tells your gauge how much fuel is left), the fuel filter (often integrated into the module housing or attached downstream), the fuel pressure regulator (maintains proper pressure), and the pump's electrical connector. Replacing the entire assembly is standard practice, even if just the pump motor itself has failed, as accessing the tank is the labor-intensive part.

Critical Safety First: Handling Gasoline Hazards

  • Draining the Tank: Working on a fuel system full of gasoline is extremely hazardous. Siphoning or pumping out the vast majority of the fuel before dropping the tank is non-negotiable. Never attempt this job with a full tank – the weight makes it unsafe to handle and drastically increases spill risk. Use a dedicated fluid transfer pump designed for gasoline.
  • Fire Risk Mitigation: Gasoline vapors are explosive. Perform this job ONLY in a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors or in a large garage with doors open. Have a fully charged Class B fire extinguisher (for flammable liquids) immediately accessible. Avoid sparks, open flames, and sources of ignition like cigarettes or electric heaters. Disconnect the vehicle's negative battery cable before starting any work.
  • Skin & Eye Protection: Gasoline irritates skin and eyes. Wear chemical-resistant gloves (nitrile works well) and safety glasses throughout the process.

Essential Tools & Supplies Checklist

  • New Fuel Pump Assembly: Purchase a quality aftermarket unit (like Bosch, Delphi, Airtex) or an OEM Mopar replacement. Ensure it's explicitly listed for the 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee with your exact engine size (3.6L V6 or 5.7L V8). Using the correct assembly is vital.
  • Fuel Siphon/Pump: Mandatory for draining the tank safely.
  • Basic Hand Tools: Comprehensive socket set & ratchets (metric sizes, including deep sockets), wrenches, screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips), needle-nose pliers, shop rags, and safety glasses.
  • Jack & Jack Stands: Heavy-duty floor jack rated for your vehicle's weight and sturdy jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Ramp alternatives exist but complicate tank removal.
  • Torx Bit Set: Often needed for the fuel pump module lock ring and sometimes other underbody components. T40, T45, T50, T55 are common.
  • Hose Clamp Pliers: Specialized pliers make removing fuel line spring clamps much easier.
  • Transmission Jack or Alternative Support: Highly recommended for safely lowering and supporting the weight of the fuel tank during removal and reinstallation. A sturdy piece of wood and a secondary hydraulic jack can work cautiously.
  • Penetrating Oil (e.g., PB Blaster): Essential for freeing potentially rusted bolts, especially near the rear suspension components that may need to be temporarily moved.
  • Fuel Resistant Sealant: Special O-ring lubricant or sealant compatible with gasoline is needed for the new pump assembly's seal.
  • Drip Pan: Place under the tank and connection points to catch spilled fuel.
  • Torque Wrench: Critical for tightening the fuel pump lock ring and tank strap bolts to specification without damaging parts.

The Step-by-Step 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump Replacement Process

  1. Vehicle Preparation: Park the Jeep on a level, solid surface. Apply the parking brake firmly and chock the front wheels. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Open the fuel filler door and remove the fuel filler cap to relieve pressure.
  2. Drain the Fuel Tank: Insert your transfer pump hose carefully down the filler neck. Pump fuel into approved gasoline containers. Remove as much fuel as possible, leaving only minimal residue (less than an inch deep is ideal).
  3. Access the Fuel Pump Electrical Connector & Lines: Lift the rear cargo area carpet. Locate the access panel (usually oval or rectangular) under the carpet, positioned above the fuel pump. You might need to remove some trim pieces first. If present, open this panel. Disconnect the electrical connector leading to the pump and the fuel feed and return lines attached to the pump module accessible through the panel. Skip this if you don't find the access panel – you'll disconnect these later at the tank.
  4. Raise & Secure the Vehicle: Safely lift the entire rear of the vehicle using your floor jack. Position jack stands securely under the manufacturer's specified lift points on the frame rails. Lower the vehicle onto the stands. Double-check stability.
  5. Disconnect Lines & Connectors at the Tank: Locate the fuel pump module underneath – it's centrally mounted under the fuel tank. If not disconnected inside the cabin, disconnect the electrical connector to the pump. Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines from the module. You'll likely need a fuel line disconnect tool set for these quick-connect fittings. Place your drip pan underneath. Release any anti-rotation clips or straps securing the lines.
  6. Support the Fuel Tank: Position your transmission jack, alternative jack, or sturdy block of wood with a secondary hydraulic jack underneath the center of the fuel tank.
  7. Remove Tank Straps: Locate the tank retaining straps (usually two) running laterally across the tank. They attach to the frame with bolts at each end. Soak bolt threads with penetrating oil if rusty. Carefully loosen and remove the strap bolts using the appropriate sockets/extensions. Lower the jack supporting the tank slightly after each strap is loosened to relieve pressure as you go. Fully remove the straps.
  8. Lower and Remove the Fuel Tank: Slowly and carefully lower the transmission jack/tank support, ensuring no fuel lines, brake lines, or wiring harnesses are still attached or snagging. Lower the tank until you have clear access to the top of the fuel pump module.
  9. Access the Fuel Pump Module: The pump is held in the tank by a large lock ring. Clean any debris off the top area. Use a brass punch and hammer lightly (to avoid sparks) in the direction specified (usually counterclockwise) or use the correct large Torx bit with a breaker bar/impact driver. Once broken free, unscrew the lock ring by hand. Carefully lift the old fuel pump assembly straight up out of the tank, angling it slightly to clear the sending unit float arm. Be mindful of the tank seal.
  10. Install the New Fuel Pump Assembly: Compare the old and new assemblies carefully, ensuring float arm orientation matches. Lubricate the new tank seal lightly with the fuel-resistant lubricant provided with the new pump or purchased separately – never use petroleum jelly or incompatible grease. Lower the new assembly carefully into the tank, aligning any notches correctly. Ensure the sealing surface is clean and smooth.
  11. Reassemble the Module: Press the module down firmly into place to seat the seal. Hand-tighten the lock ring as far as possible. Use the brass punch and hammer or the Torx socket to gently tap the lock ring clockwise to its final seated position, ensuring it's fully engaged and level. Do not overtighten.
  12. Reinstall the Fuel Tank: Carefully raise the tank and pump assembly back into position using the transmission jack/support. Ensure it sits level. Lift it high enough to reinstall the tank straps. Install the straps and tighten the bolts finger tight. Gradually tighten the strap bolts alternately, a few turns each side at a time, until the tank is snug and level. Crucially, torque the strap bolts to the manufacturer's specification (refer to a repair manual, typically around 35-40 ft-lbs).
  13. Reconnect Lines & Wiring: Reconnect the fuel feed, return lines, and electrical connector to the pump module under the tank. Ensure each connection clicks securely into place. Reinstall any anti-rotation clips or hose brackets removed earlier. Double-check all connections.
  14. Lower Vehicle & Final Assembly: Slowly lower the rear of the vehicle to the ground. If you accessed the pump connector inside the cabin, reconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines at that access panel now. Replace the interior access cover and reinstall trim pieces and carpet. Reinstall the fuel filler cap.
  15. Reconnect Battery: Reattach the negative battery cable.
  16. Pre-Priming the System (Optional but Recommended): Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (not start) and wait for 2-3 seconds. Turn it off. Repeat this cycle 3-5 times. This allows the fuel pump to prime, filling the lines and filter with gasoline and building system pressure, making the initial start easier.

Post-Installation Checks & Starting Procedure

  • Visually inspect under the vehicle, around the tank, and at the pump module for any signs of fuel leaks. Pay close attention to hose connections and the lock ring seal area. If you smell fuel strongly or see dripping, DO NOT START THE ENGINE. Identify and fix the leak immediately.
  • With no leaks detected, turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. Listen carefully – you should hear the new fuel pump activate for approximately 2-3 seconds as it primes the system. A healthy pump typically emits a smooth, moderately loud whine.
  • Attempt to start the engine. It may crank slightly longer than normal initially (a few extra seconds). Once started, let the engine idle and monitor it closely.
  • Check again underneath for leaks while the engine is running and under pressure. Address any leaks immediately by shutting the engine off.
  • Test drive the vehicle cautiously at first, paying attention to power delivery and any unusual noises. Ensure the fuel gauge is reading accurately.

Troubleshooting Common Post-Replacement Issues

  • Engine Cranks But Won't Start: Double-check all electrical connections (pump module connector). Verify fuel pressure using a gauge at the engine rail port. Ensure the lock ring is fully seated and the seal isn't compromised. Confirm pump operation (listen for the prime sound). Check fuse and relay.
  • Fuel Leak at Lock Ring: Turn off engine. Check if lock ring is fully seated and tightened properly. Ensure seal is undamaged, lubricated correctly, and properly installed.
  • Fuel Leak at Hose Connections: Check quick-connects are fully clicked in place. Inspect O-rings on line connectors for damage or omission (new ones often come pre-installed). Ensure spring clamps (if used) are properly positioned and tight.
  • Engine Runs Rough or Sputters: Check for leaks drawing air into the system. Confirm all connections are tight. Ensure no fuel lines are pinched. Verify you used the exact correct pump assembly for your engine/Jeep model. Consider the possibility of other issues like spark plugs or a clogged fuel filter, though the filter is usually new with the pump.
  • Fuel Gauge Inaccurate: Check fuel level sending unit connection at the pump module connector. Float arm could be sticking or damaged during install. Verify correct part compatibility. Consider driving a few miles to see if it stabilizes.

Conclusion: Why You Replaced That Fuel Pump
Replacing a fuel pump on a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee is a significant undertaking that demands respect for safety protocols and methodical execution. While the core task revolves around accessing and swapping the pump module inside the tank, the complexity lies in safely supporting the vehicle, draining fuel, handling the heavy tank, and ensuring leak-free reassembly. Success requires careful preparation, the right tools, patience, and following each step precisely. Completing this repair yourself can lead to substantial savings on labor costs and restore your Jeep's reliable performance, provided you prioritize safety and double-check your work meticulously.