The Essential Guide to Finding, Testing, and Replacing the 1999 Ford Explorer Fuel Pump Fuse (Crucial Tips Included)

The fuse for the fuel pump in a 1999 Ford Explorer is a 15-amp mini fuse located in the passenger compartment fuse panel. Specifically, find position number 13 (labeled "FUEL PUMP") within this panel. This fuse is critical because it protects the electrical circuit powering your fuel pump. A blown fuse will cut power completely, preventing the engine from starting or causing it to stall suddenly. Checking and replacing this fuse is the first and simplest step when facing fuel pump issues like a no-start condition, engine sputtering, or loss of power. Locate the panel under the dash to the left of the steering column, identify fuse #13 (referring to your owner's manual diagram is wise), visually inspect it, or test it with a multimeter for continuity. Replacement must be done with an identical 15-amp mini fuse.

Locating the Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel
The fuse box containing the fuel pump fuse resides inside your 1999 Explorer's cabin. Open the driver's side door. Look beneath the dashboard, slightly to the left of the steering column. You'll see a rectangular plastic cover, typically dark grey or black. Gently pry this cover off; it's usually held by simple clips. Behind the cover is the fuse panel, containing numerous mini fuses and relays. A fuse panel diagram is usually printed on the backside of this cover. Keep the cover close while working.

Identifying Fuse #13 (Fuel Pump)
With the fuse panel exposed and the cover diagram in hand, locate fuse position number 13. On the diagram, it should explicitly say "FUEL PUMP" next to position 13. Physically within the panel, each fuse slot is numbered. Carefully find the slot marked "13". Inside slot 13, you'll find a standard automotive mini fuse. Ford specifies a 15-amp mini fuse for this position. Mini fuses are smaller than the older standard blade fuses. Visually verify that the fuse installed matches a 15-amp rating.

Why This Fuse Blows
The fuel pump fuse protects the circuit supplying power to the fuel pump. It blows due to an electrical overload. The most common triggers include:

  • A Failing Fuel Pump: As an electric fuel pump nears the end of its life, internal resistance increases or components short. This draws excessive current, overloading the fuse.
  • Electrical Short Circuit: Damaged wiring anywhere in the fuel pump circuit (between the fuse panel and the pump, or the pump ground path) can create a short to ground. Wires rubbing against sharp metal edges or corroded connectors are frequent culprits. Wiring damage near the fuel tank, where the pump harness connects, is common due to road hazards and vibration.
  • Water Intrusion: Exposure to significant water, especially near connectors under the vehicle, can cause short circuits.
  • Overloaded Circuit: Attempting to draw more power than the circuit is designed for (like adding aftermarket accessories incorrectly tapped into the fuel pump circuit) can exceed the fuse's capacity.
  • Corrosion: Severe corrosion on fuse contacts or wiring harness connectors creates resistance and heat, potentially melting plastic and causing shorts.

Testing the 1999 Ford Explorer Fuel Pump Fuse
Never assume a fuse is blown just by looking. Proper testing is essential:

  1. Visual Inspection: Remove the fuse (use fuse puller tool often included in the fuse box cover). Hold it up to a bright light. Look at the thin metal strip inside the clear plastic housing. A blown fuse has a visibly broken or melted metal strip. If it looks intact, test further.
  2. Multimeter Test (Best Method): Set a digital multimeter to measure continuity (audible beep setting) or low resistance (Ohms Ω). Touch one probe to each of the fuse's metal blades. A good fuse shows continuity (near 0 Ohms resistance) and the audible beep. An open circuit (infinite resistance, no beep) confirms a blown fuse. Always test the fuse with it removed from the panel.

Replacing the Fuel Pump Fuse
If testing confirms a blown fuse, replacement is straightforward:

  1. Use the Correct Replacement: Obtain a new 15-amp mini fuse (Blue color). Using a higher amp fuse defeats the protection and risks severe wiring damage or fire. Always match the amp rating exactly.
  2. Power Off: Ensure the ignition key is in the OFF position.
  3. Insert Securely: Place the new fuse firmly into slot #13, ensuring it's fully seated. The plastic tabs should be flush with the surrounding panel.
  4. Retest: Try starting the engine. If it starts and runs smoothly, the blown fuse was likely the problem. However...

The Crucial Next Step: Why Did It Blow?
Replacing the fuse is only step one. A fuse rarely blows without cause. Installing a new fuse without diagnosing the underlying problem means it will blow again, potentially very soon. Immediately after successful replacement:

  1. Monitor Closely: Pay attention for any signs of trouble – hesitation, sputtering, or the engine cutting out. If symptoms reappear quickly, the root cause is still present.
  2. Check Wiring: Visually inspect accessible wiring near the fuse panel, along the frame towards the fuel tank, and at the fuel pump connector. Look for chafed insulation, exposed wire, melted sections, or severely corroded connectors. Pay special attention to areas where wires pass through metal brackets or near moving parts.
  3. Listen: With the key turned to ON (not start), you should hear the fuel pump run for 1-3 seconds to prime the system. If you hear unusual buzzing, grinding, or screeching, the pump itself is suspect. Silence (after replacing the fuse) could still indicate a wiring break, faulty relay, or a dead pump.
  4. Pressure Test: If possible, connect a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail test port. The 1999 Explorer requires roughly 60-67 PSI (spec range varies slightly). Lack of pressure after a fuse replacement points to a failed pump, stuck relay, or wiring break.
  5. Relay Check: The fuel pump relay controls power to the fuse. A faulty relay (contacts stuck closed or open) can cause issues. While less likely to blow the fuse than a short, swapping the fuel pump relay for a known good identical one (like the horn relay – consult your diagram) is a common diagnostic step.

When to Suspect a Bad Fuel Pump
If a new fuse blows immediately or very quickly, especially after hearing the pump make unusual noises, a failing fuel pump is the prime suspect. The increased current draw kills the fuse. Replacing the pump becomes necessary. Symptoms pointing strongly to pump failure include:

  • New fuse blows right after starting or driving a short distance.
  • Loud whining, grinding, or buzzing from the fuel tank area.
  • Vehicle starts and runs briefly, then dies consistently.
  • Lack of fuel pressure confirmed by testing.

Preventative Maintenance Tips
While fuses don't require regular maintenance, protecting the fuel pump circuit does:

  1. Keep Wiring Dry/Intact: Avoid deep water. Inspect wiring during routine servicing if possible.
  2. Secure Loose Components: Ensure the fuel pump access cover is properly reinstalled after any rear tank work to protect wiring.
  3. Quality Repairs: Use proper connectors and secure wiring away from hazards if any repair work is done near the tank or frame rails.
  4. Address Pump Noise: A pump that starts getting significantly louder is likely failing. Replace it before it strands you and blows fuses repeatedly.
  5. Clean Electrical Connections: Periodically inspect and clean battery terminals, fuse box contacts, and major grounds. Good electrical connections prevent resistance build-up and heat issues.

Crucial Safety Considerations
Working around the fuel system requires caution.

  • Depressurize: Before working on fuel lines near the engine or pump, relieve fuel system pressure. Find the fuse or relay, start the engine, let it stall due to lack of fuel, then crank for 3-5 seconds more. Wear safety glasses.
  • Fire Risk: Gasoline is highly flammable. Have a fire extinguisher rated for Class B (flammable liquids) nearby. Avoid sparks and open flames completely when working near the tank or lines. Disconnect the negative battery cable for major pump wiring work.
  • Electrical Safety: Disconnect the battery ground cable before probing or cutting wires to prevent accidental shorts.

Troubleshooting Flowchart Summary
Facing a non-starting 1999 Explorer? Follow these critical steps logically:

  1. Verify Symptoms: Crank but no start? Engine sputters and dies?
  2. Check Fuel: Is the gauge working? Is there adequate fuel? Listen for pump prime sound at Key ON.
  3. Inspect Fuse #13: Locate passenger fuse panel. Pull fuse #13. Test visually and with a multimeter.
  4. Blown Fuse? Replace with new 15A mini fuse. Did the car start? YES: Drive carefully but monitor closely for recurrence. NO: Move to step 5. Fuse blew instantly? Suspect severe short or bad pump.
  5. Fuel Pump Relay: Try swapping with an identical relay (e.g., horn relay) known to work.
  6. Check Inertia Switch: Find the inertia switch (usually passenger footwell). Ensure its button is fully depressed. Reset it if necessary.
  7. Fuel Pressure Test: Connect a gauge to the test port on the fuel rail. Compare pressure to spec (~60-67 PSI) at Key ON and during cranking.
  8. Electrical Testing: If no prime sound or pressure, use a multimeter to check for battery voltage at the fuel pump electrical connector (Key ON). If voltage is present but the pump doesn't run, the pump is bad. If voltage is missing, trace power back (relay, fuse, inertia switch, wiring).
  9. Inspect Pump Wiring: Thoroughly check wiring from the fuse box to the pump for damage, especially near the tank.
  10. Pump Replacement: If electrical checks confirm power and ground are good at the pump connector but the pump doesn't run (and you've ruled out inertia switch and relay), or if the fuse blows instantly, plan for fuel pump replacement.

The Bottom Line
Locating fuse #13 in the passenger compartment fuse panel, confirming it's a 15-amp mini fuse, and testing/replacing it is the essential starting point when troubleshooting fuel system issues on your 1999 Ford Explorer. However, never stop at simply replacing the fuse. Diagnosing why it blew is critical to prevent recurrence and address potentially serious electrical faults or a failing fuel pump. Understanding the role of the fuse within the larger fuel pump circuit – including the relay and inertia switch – provides a roadmap for effective diagnosis and repair, ensuring your Explorer remains reliable and safe on the road.

Back to blog