The Exact 1989 Toyota Pickup Fuel Pump Relay Location (And How To Find & Test It)

Here is the definitive answer for the 1989 Toyota Pickup fuel pump relay location: For most 1989 Toyota Pickups equipped with fuel injection (the 22R-E engine), the fuel pump relay is located inside the cabin, mounted on the driver's side interior fuse box panel, above the hood release lever and directly below the steering column.

Identifying this location quickly is crucial when diagnosing fuel delivery problems. A failed relay is a common reason why a Toyota pickup suddenly loses power or refuses to start. Knowing precisely where to find it saves hours of frustrating searching and prevents unnecessary parts replacement. This guide provides the detailed steps to locate, identify, and test the relay in your 1989 Pickup.

Finding the Fuel Pump Relay in Your 1989 Toyota Pickup

1. Get Prepared: Sit in the driver's seat. Ensure the parking brake is engaged and the transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral with the clutch depressed (manual). Have a small flashlight ready. A flathead screwdriver might be helpful.
2. Locate the Interior Fuse Box: Look directly below the steering column and above the hood release lever. You will see a large, rectangular plastic cover. This is the fuse box access panel.
3. Remove the Fuse Box Cover: The cover is typically held in place by plastic clips at the top and bottom. Press the clips inward or gently pry the top edge downward to release it, then pull the cover straight off. Set it aside.
4. Identify the Relay: With the cover removed, look closely at the components attached to the fuse box panel.
   • You will see multiple fuses and several larger, often cube-shaped components. These are relays.
   • Crucially: Focus on the upper left corner of the fuse box panel (relative to the driver sitting normally).
   • The Fuel Pump Relay is usually one of the larger, square relays in this corner. It may look similar to the horn relay or Circuit Opening Relay (COR) nearby. Check for any labels imprinted or stamped directly on the plastic fuse box panel surrounding the relays. Look specifically for "EFI," "Fuel," "Fuel Pump," or "F/P." Toyota sometimes labeled relays directly on the panel.
   • Physical Characteristics: The 1989 fuel pump relay is often white or off-white plastic, roughly a 1-inch square cube. It typically plugs into a socket with multiple electrical terminals. If the labels are missing or worn (common on 35-year-old trucks), it is almost certainly the relay positioned slightly above and sometimes slightly behind the bank of fuses, near the upper left mounting screw of the fuse box bracket itself.
   • Carbureted Engines (22R): If your 1989 Pickup has the older 22R carbureted engine (less common for '89 but possible on early models), it does not have this EFI fuel pump relay. Fuel pump operation in carbureted models is usually controlled mechanically (via oil pressure switch and/or ignition pulse), and the fuel pump itself might be mechanical (engine-driven) or a simple electric pump often located near the fuel tank. This guide primarily addresses the vastly more common fuel-injected (22R-E) models.

Visual Confirmation and Removal

5. Consult the Diagram (If Present): The back of the fuse box cover you just removed usually has a diagram listing all fuses and relays and their positions. Find the legend for "Fuel Pump," "EFI," or "F/P" – it will correspond to the slot location on the panel you are looking at, confirming your identification.
6. Remove the Relay for Inspection/Testing: To verify and test the relay, you need to remove it:
   • Grasp the relay firmly. Don't pull on the wires connected to it.
   • Pull the relay straight out from its socket. It may require a firm but steady pull. Wiggle it slightly side-to-side while pulling if it feels stuck.
   • Inspect the metal terminals on the bottom of the relay and inside the socket on the fuse panel. Look for obvious signs of burning, melting, or green corrosion. Gently clean with contact cleaner and a small wire brush if needed. Significant damage usually means replacement is required.

Testing the 1989 Toyota Pickup Fuel Pump Relay

Replacing a critical relay based on suspicion alone can be costly. Testing confirms failure. Here's how to test it:

1. Basic Swap Test (Quick Check): This is the simplest diagnostic method if you have access to another relay in the box with the same part number or terminal pattern.
   • Locate the horn relay (often near the fuel pump relay) or another relay of identical size and shape. Consult the fuse diagram on the cover. Do not use a different type.
   • Swap the suspected fuel pump relay with this known-good relay. Plug the suspect relay into the horn socket.
   • Try activating the horn. If the horn now doesn't work, the suspect relay is likely bad. If the horn works, the suspect relay is probably okay for this test.
   • Now test the truck: Turn the key to the "ON" position without starting. You should hear the fuel pump in the rear (or near the engine) run for 2-3 seconds and then stop (this is prime mode). If the pump runs now with the swapped relay but didn't before, the original fuel pump relay is faulty.
   • If the pump still doesn't run after a swap, the problem lies elsewhere (possibly the pump, wiring, ECU, or fuse).
2. Circuit Testing (Requires Multimeter): A more precise method involves checking for power and ground signals to the relay.
   • You need a basic digital multimeter (DMM).
   • Understand the Terminal Layout: With the relay removed, look at its socket on the fuse panel. The terminals are often numbered. Consult a service manual schematic for the specific 1989 22R-E, but common Toyota terminal functions are:
     • Terminal 1: Fuel Pump Monitor (Output to ECU - often used to trigger dash indicator if pump circuit fails). Usually not critical for basic operation test.
     • Terminal 2: Ground. Should have continuity to chassis ground with key ON.
     • Terminal 3: Switched 12V+ Input (Power to activate the relay coil). Should show +12V when key turned to ON/START. (This power might also come through the "Circuit Opening Relay" - see below).
     • Terminal 4: Signal from ECU (This signal grounds Terminal 2 to activate the relay). Requires key ON and ECU signal.
     • Terminal 5: Constant 12V+ Input (Main power IN from fuse). Should have constant +12V even with key OFF.
     • Terminal 6: Power Output to Fuel Pump. This sends switched power to the pump when relay is active.
   • Test Power Inputs:
     • Set DMM to measure DC Volts (20V range).
     • Connect the black meter lead to a known good metal ground point on the chassis.
     • With key OFF, probe terminal 5 (Constant +12V). Meter should show approximately 12 volts.
     • With key turned to the ON position (not start), probe terminal 3 (Switched +12V). Meter should show approximately 12 volts.
   • Test Ground Signals:
     • Set DMM to measure resistance (Ohms).
     • Connect one meter lead to terminal 2 on the socket.
     • Connect the other meter lead to a known good metal ground point on the chassis.
     • With an assistant turning the key to the ON position, the resistance should drop to nearly 0 Ohms, indicating the ECU is grounding terminal 2 to activate the relay.
   • Test Relay Operation (Bench Test):
     • Apply +12V to the relay terminal identified as the "switched power" (typically terminal 3 or 4, depending on type - referencing a specific 1989 diagram is best).
     • Apply ground to the relay coil ground terminal (typically terminal 2 or 4).
     • You should hear/feel a distinct "click" as the relay activates.
     • Use the DMM in resistance/continuity mode: With relay inactive, terminals 5 (Power IN) and 6 (Power OUT) should be open circuit (infinite resistance). When relay is activated (+12V and ground applied to coil), these terminals should show continuity (near 0 Ohms). This confirms the internal switch is working.
3. Bypass Test (Caution - Diagnostic Only):
   • This test verifies if power can get to the fuel pump, bypassing the relay circuit. Do not drive the vehicle with the bypass in place!
   • Locate the fuel pump relay socket.
   • Identify terminals 5 (Constant +12V IN) and 6 (Power OUT to Pump) – these are usually the two terminals connected by the internal switch. (Referencing the diagram on the fuse cover or a service manual is crucial here).
   • With key OFF, insert a fused jumper wire (or a small piece of wire with alligator clips) only between the sockets for terminal 5 and terminal 6. Ensure you are ONLY jumping these two specific terminals.
   • Turn the key to the ON position (no need to start).
   • If the fuel pump runs continuously while jumped, this proves:
     • The fuse protecting the main power feed (likely the EFI fuse) is good.
     • The wiring from the relay socket terminal 5 to the fuse is good.
     • The wiring from the relay socket terminal 6 to the fuel pump is good.
     • The fuel pump itself is functional.
     • Therefore, the problem lies within the relay itself or the control circuit activating the relay (Terminals 2, 3, & 4 and ECU signal).

The Circuit Opening Relay (COR) - A Related & Important Component

• Where is it? Also in the cabin, typically near the fuel pump relay on the same interior fuse panel. On the '89 Pickup, it's often a slightly larger, rectangular relay compared to the cube-shaped fuel pump relay. Check labels on the fuse panel or diagram for "Circuit Opening," "C/OPN," or "COR".
• What does it do? The COR acts as a primary safety switch for the entire EFI system, including the fuel pump circuit. It prevents the fuel pump from running continuously if the engine stalls or isn't cranking. It receives signals indicating the engine is rotating (starter signal and/or distributor/ignition pulse). Only when the COR senses engine rotation will it send the critical switched 12V signal needed to activate the main fuel pump relay (which then sends power to the pump).
• Why it matters: A failure in the COR or its triggering circuits (starter signal, igniter pulse) can mimic a failed fuel pump relay or fuel pump. If you have swapped and tested the fuel pump relay successfully and the bypass test makes the pump run, but the pump doesn't run with the key ON normally, the COR or its inputs could be the culprit.
• Testing the COR: Similar principles apply: Swap test with a known identical relay (confirm part number match if possible), or test for activation signals (starter signal to COR, ignition pulse to COR) and power outputs using a multimeter according to a wiring schematic. Failure is common.

Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump Relay

• Engine cranks but won't start.
• Engine starts but stalls shortly after starting. The relay might work momentarily but fail under vibration or heat.
• Engine stalls while driving due to an intermittent relay failure, then may restart later after cooling down.
• Lack of the priming sound. No fuel pump "whirring" sound heard for 2-3 seconds when turning the key to ON (before cranking).
• Intermittent starting problems that seem to come and go randomly.
• Complete loss of fuel pump operation.

Fuse Checks Are Critical

Before blaming the relay, always check these key fuses related to the fuel pump circuit on the 1989 Pickup:

1. Interior Fuse Box:
   • EFI Main Fuse (Usually 15A): Provides constant power to terminal 5 of the fuel pump relay and powers other EFI components. Critical.
   • Fuel Pump Fuse (Labelled "F/P" or "Fuel Pump", Usually 15A): Directly protects the fuel pump circuit power leaving terminal 6 of the relay. Also critical.
   • ECU-IG Fuse (Usually 10A or 15A): Powers ignition/control signals to relays like the COR and potentially the fuel pump relay control side. Important.
   • Engine/Ammeter Fuse (Usually 50-60A): This large fuse in the interior box provides primary power to the entire engine/fuel system via the main wiring harness. If blown, no fuel or spark.
2. Engine Bay Fuse Box:
   • EFI Fuse (Usually 20-30A): Another main power feed for the EFI system, protecting circuits similar to the EFI Main fuse inside. Verify both locations.
   • Main Fusible Links (Near Battery): These large protected "fuses" near the positive battery terminal supply primary power to the engine bay and interior fuse boxes. If blown, multiple systems fail.

Replacement Options and Tips

• OEM Part Number: The original Toyota fuel pump relay part number for most late 80s Pickups/Trucks (including 1989 EFI models) is often 85930-22011. Double-check this against your old relay or VIN with a dealer parts counter.
• Aftermarket: Numerous aftermarket relays are available from brands like Standard Motor Products, Denso, Aisin, and others. Ensure it matches the electrical specifications and socket pattern (pin layout). Consider using Denso or Toyota genuine for long-term reliability.
• Installation: Simply push the new relay firmly and evenly into the socket until it clicks or seats completely. Ensure it's oriented correctly (match the shape of the relay base to the socket).
• Cost: Aftermarket relays are relatively inexpensive ($15-$40). Genuine Toyota relays cost more ($50-$80+).
• Avoid Moisture/Dirt: While inside the cabin, ensure the area is clean and dry when reinstalling the fuse box cover.

Common Misdiagnoses

1. Blaming the fuel pump first: Pumps are expensive and labor-intensive to replace. Diagnose the relays and fuses first.
2. Ignoring the Circuit Opening Relay (COR): If the COR is faulty, the fuel pump relay won't get its activation signal, preventing the pump from running.
3. Overlooking fuses: Blown fuses are simple fixes but often missed in frustration. Check all relevant fuses before touching relays.
4. Wiring Issues: Bad grounds, damaged wires (especially near the firewall pass-throughs or rear tank), or corroded connectors in the fuel pump circuit can cause identical symptoms to a bad relay. A bypass test and multimeter checks help isolate wiring.
5. ECU Problems: Though less common than relay failure, a fault in the ECU preventing it from sending the ground signal to activate the relay (Terminal 4 control signal) can happen. Testing the signal at the relay socket identifies this.

Conclusion

The primary fuel pump relay in your 1989 Toyota Pickup is reliably found inside the driver's compartment, attached to the fuse box panel situated beneath the steering column. Focus your search on the upper left quadrant of this panel, looking for a square, white plastic relay. Confirming its location through the diagram on the fuse box cover is the best practice. Always perform simple checks like fuses and swap tests before condemning the relay. Remember the role of the nearby Circuit Opening Relay (COR) as well. Understanding the precise location and function of these components empowers you to efficiently diagnose and resolve fuel delivery issues, getting your reliable 22R-E powered Pickup back on the road quickly.