The Ultimate Guide to 2013 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump Problems, Symptoms, Replacement, and Costs

The fuel pump in your 2013 Dodge Dart is a critical component responsible for delivering gasoline from the tank to the engine. When it fails, your car won't run at all. Common signs of a failing 2013 Dodge Dart fuel pump include difficulty starting, engine sputtering at high speeds, sudden loss of power while driving, reduced fuel efficiency, an illuminated check engine light (often with codes like P0087 or P0171), and a noticeable whining sound from the fuel tank area. Fuel pump failure is a frequent issue reported by 2013 Dart owners, often requiring complete module replacement costing between 1000 when factoring in parts and professional labor, with DIY replacement being a possible but complex task requiring specific safety precautions. Preventive maintenance involves keeping the fuel tank at least a quarter full and regularly changing the fuel filter.

Understanding the 2013 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump's Role and Importance

Every internal combustion engine needs a precise mixture of fuel and air to run. The fuel pump's job is simple yet vital: it draws gasoline from the fuel tank and pushes it under pressure through the fuel lines, past the fuel filter, and up to the fuel injectors. The engine control module regulates the injectors, spraying the precise amount of atomized fuel into the engine's cylinders. Without adequate and consistent fuel pressure supplied by the fuel pump, the engine cannot start or continue running.

In the 2013 Dodge Dart, the fuel pump is an electric unit submerged within the fuel tank. This design uses gasoline for cooling and lubrication. The pump is part of a larger assembly called the fuel pump module, which typically includes the pump itself, the fuel level sending unit (which operates your fuel gauge), a fuel filter sock (a pre-filter on the pump inlet), the electrical connector, and the fuel pump housing/carrier. The entire module requires removal from the top of the fuel tank through an access panel, usually located under the rear seat cushion or trunk carpeting.

Recognizing the Symptoms of a Failing 2013 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump

Identifying the signs of a failing fuel pump early can prevent inconvenient breakdowns and potential safety hazards.

  1. Engine Cranks But Won't Start: This is the most definitive symptom. The engine turns over normally when you turn the key (or push the start button), but it never actually fires up and runs. This happens because the fuel pump isn't delivering any fuel to the engine. Intermittent starting problems can also signal an early pump failure.
  2. Engine Sputtering or Hesitation, Especially Under Load or at High Speeds: A weak fuel pump may provide enough pressure for idle but cannot maintain the required higher pressure when the engine demands more fuel for acceleration or sustained highway speeds. You'll experience jerking, bucking, or a sensation that the car is starved for fuel. Power loss is common during uphill climbs or merging.
  3. Sudden Loss of Power While Driving (Engine Stalling): The pump fails completely while driving, causing an immediate loss of power as the engine runs out of fuel. Coasting to the side of the road becomes necessary. The engine will crank afterward but not restart due to lack of fuel.
  4. Noticeable Drop in Fuel Economy: A struggling fuel pump works harder and less efficiently. While decreased mileage can stem from numerous issues, it's a symptom often associated with a fuel pump not maintaining optimal pressure and flow.
  5. Check Engine Light Illumination with Fuel-Related Codes: A failing fuel pump often triggers the check engine light. Diagnostic trouble codes retrieved with an OBD-II scanner provide clues:
    • P0087 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low: Directly points to insufficient fuel pressure delivered to the engine, strongly suggesting fuel pump failure.
    • P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1): Indicates the engine is receiving too much air relative to fuel. A weak pump unable to supply sufficient fuel is a primary cause.
    • P025A - Fuel Pump Module Control Circuit/Open: Suggests an electrical issue within the fuel pump circuit, possibly within the pump itself.
    • P2635 - Fuel Pump "A" Low Flow/Performance: Explicitly relates to the main fuel pump performance.
  6. Whining or Humming Noise from the Fuel Tank Area: While all electric fuel pumps emit a low hum, a distinctly louder, higher-pitched, or excessively whining sound emanating from the rear seats or trunk area signals a pump nearing the end of its life. Listen with the engine running, especially right after starting.
  7. Difficulty Starting After the Car has Been Sitting (Heat Soak): A failing pump motor can struggle more when it's hot. After driving, turning off the engine, and sitting for a short period (15-45 minutes), the residual heat makes it harder for the weakened pump to start, delaying engine restart. Starting fine cold but having problems hot is a significant indicator.

Diagnosing a 2013 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump Problem

Diagnosing a suspected fuel pump issue requires a careful process to avoid unnecessary expense.

  1. Confirm Basic Prerequisites: Verify there is fuel in the tank – a stuck fuel level sender can make the gauge inaccurate. Ensure the vehicle's battery is in good condition and fully charged; a weak battery can mimic other problems.
  2. Check the Fuel Pump Inertia Switch (Reset if necessary): While not common on all Dart models, some have a fuel pump inertia switch designed to shut off the pump in an accident. Locate it (often in the trunk area or under the dash) and check if the reset button has popped out. Push the button firmly back in.
  3. Listen for the Prime Sound: When you first turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (without cranking the engine), the fuel pump should run for 2-3 seconds to pressurize the system. Have someone turn the key while you listen near the rear seats or fuel filler cap. Silence indicates a significant problem – likely a dead fuel pump, a blown fuse, a bad relay, or a wiring issue.
  4. Locate and Inspect the Fuel Pump Fuse: Consult your owner's manual to find the fuel pump fuse location within the fuse box (usually under the hood). Visually inspect the fuse. A blown fuse needs replacement. However, replacing a blown fuse that blows again immediately signals a deeper electrical problem like a short circuit.
  5. Check the Fuel Pump Relay: The relay is the switch activated by the ignition signal to send power to the pump. Locate it (also usually under the hood, near the fuse box). Try swapping it with a known identical relay from the box (like the horn relay) that works. If the car starts, the original fuel pump relay is faulty.
  6. Perform a Fuel Pressure Test: This is the most definitive test for a fuel pump. Requires a specific fuel pressure test kit. Locate the Schrader valve test port on the fuel rail under the hood. Connect the gauge, turn the ignition on to prime the system, and read the pressure. Compare the actual reading against the specification for the 2013 Dodge Dart with the 2.0L or 2.4L engine (typically between 55-65 PSI). Low or zero pressure confirms fuel delivery problems, most commonly a failed fuel pump.
  7. Use a Scan Tool for Active Data: Advanced diagnostic scan tools can display live fuel pressure sensor data (PID). Monitor this pressure, especially during engine cranking and running, to see if it meets specs.

Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing a 2013 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump

Replacing the fuel pump module is a complex, moderately difficult task due to fuel handling and access issues. Safety is paramount: Gasoline is flammable; NO sparks or open flames. Work in a ventilated area.

Option 1: Professional Replacement (Recommended for Most Owners)

  1. Diagnosis Confirmation: The shop should perform definitive fuel pressure testing and confirm failure.
  2. Parts Acquisition: They will source either an OEM module (Mopar part JA3318 is common for the 2.0L/2.4L) or a trusted aftermarket brand.
  3. Depressure Fuel System: Safely relieve residual fuel pressure using appropriate procedures.
  4. Fuel Drainage/Draw-down: Most shops use specialized equipment to pump out most of the fuel from the tank through the filler neck or siphon hose.
  5. Access Module: Remove rear seat bottom cushions to expose the access panel(s) bolted to the floor above the fuel tank. Remove the panel(s).
  6. Disconnect Electrical Connectors & Fuel Lines: Disconnect the pump wiring harness plug and the quick-connect fittings securing the fuel supply and return lines. Capture minor fuel spillage with rags.
  7. Remove Lock Ring: Carefully loosen the large retaining ring holding the module in place using a brass punch and hammer or specific tool. Remove the ring.
  8. Remove Old Module: Lift the entire module assembly straight up out of the tank, angling it carefully to avoid damaging the fuel level sender float arm. Dispose of old seal ring.
  9. Install New Module: Compare new module to old. Transfer the fuel level sender arm to the new module if required (some replacements don't include it). Insert the new module into the tank, aligning correctly. Hand-tighten the new seal ring onto the tank flange.
  10. Reconnect & Secure: Reconnect fuel lines ensuring the quick-connects "click" fully locked. Reconnect the electrical connector. Install the new retaining ring and tighten securely following the proper sequence.
  11. Reinstall Access Panel and Seat: Replace the access panel(s) and bolts. Reinstall rear seat cushions.
  12. Cycle Ignition & Check for Leaks: Turn ignition ON several times (pump will run briefly each time) to prime the system. Check meticulously around all connections for fuel leaks before starting the engine. Start the engine and double-check for leaks.

Option 2: DIY Replacement (Experienced DIYers Only) If proceeding yourself, follow the professional steps above very carefully. Key additional DIY considerations:

  • Parts: Purchase the correct module for your specific engine (2.0L or 2.4L). Research and decide on OEM (Mopar JA3318) or quality aftermarket. Buy a new seal/gasket kit. Consider replacing the fuel filter sock if not included.
  • Tools Required: Basic socket set wrenches, fuel line disconnect tools (correct size for your connections), brass punch + hammer or specific lock ring tool, safety glasses, nitrile gloves, fuel container, absorbent pads/rags, fuel pressure test kit (optional, highly recommended pre/post-install), new fuel pump module.
  • Depressurizing: Locate fuse/relay; with engine running, pull relay/fuse until engine dies; crank briefly afterward.
  • Fuel Drainage: Siphoning fuel requires extreme caution. Use a dedicated siphon pump kit designed for safety. Only drain fuel into an approved gas can. Keep container well away from any ignition sources.
  • Safety First: Always disconnect the negative battery cable before beginning work. Ground yourself before touching the pump. Avoid static electricity. Never use metal tools that can cause sparks near open fuel.
  • Lock Ring Difficulty: This is often the hardest part. Use steady pressure with the correct non-sparking tool.
  • Sealing: The new seal ring must install perfectly flat and be tightened evenly and sufficiently to prevent leaks. Overtightening can crack the plastic flanges.

Cost Breakdown for 2013 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump Replacement

  • Parts Costs:
    • Mopar OEM Module (JA3318 etc.): 450+ (Dealership prices are highest)
    • Quality Aftermarket Module (Denso, Delphi, Airtex, Carter): 250 (Best value/performance balance for many).
    • Low-Cost Aftermarket Module: 100 (Riskier; higher chance of premature failure).
    • Gasket/Seal Kit: 20 (Essential).
  • Labor Costs: Typically 1.5 to 3.0 hours of shop time. Rates vary by region/shop: 180 per hour. Expected labor cost: 540.
  • Total Estimated Replacement Cost:
    • With OEM Part & Labor: 1000+ (Dealership likely upper end)
    • With Quality Aftermarket Part & Labor: 700
    • DIY Cost (Quality Aftermarket Part & Gasket): 270

Common Causes of 2013 Dodge Dart Fuel Pump Failure and Prevention Tips

  • Electrical Wear & Tear: The electric motor within the pump wears out over time due to continuous operation during engine running. Brushes wear down, windings fail, commutators pit. This is the primary cause. Preventive measures are limited as this is inherent wear.
  • Running on Low Fuel Consistently: The fuel pump relies on fuel for cooling and lubrication. When the tank level is frequently below 1/4 full, the pump is more exposed to heat buildup and runs hotter. Repeated thermal cycles stress components. Prevention Tip: Keep your fuel tank at least 1/4 full whenever possible, especially in hot weather or during sustained highway driving. This simple habit dramatically extends pump life.
  • Contaminated Fuel: Dirt, rust, or water ingress into the fuel tank clogs the inlet filter sock and makes the pump work harder, eventually leading to motor strain and failure. Prevention Tip: Replace the fuel filter at the intervals recommended in your owner's manual. While the Dart often has a lifetime integrated filter, severe contamination or degraded sock makes pump replacement necessary. Use reputable gas stations. Avoid filling up immediately after tanker trucks have refilled underground tanks (stirs up sediment).
  • Voltage Issues: Poor battery connections, faulty alternators causing over-voltage, or corroded wiring can damage the pump motor or its internal electronics. Prevention Tip: Maintain a healthy charging system. Clean battery terminals regularly. Fix wiring corrosion issues promptly.
  • Age and Mileage: Like any electro-mechanical component, longevity varies. The 2013 Dart is now over 10 years old. Failure becomes statistically more likely after 80,000-120,000 miles. Prevention Tip: Plan financially for potential replacement as the car ages and miles accumulate.

Choosing the Right Replacement Fuel Pump for Your 2013 Dodge Dart

You generally buy the entire fuel pump module assembly. Here are your options:

  1. Genuine Mopar OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer):
    • Pros: Exact fit, perfect compatibility, meets original specifications, generally comes with the fuel level sensor pre-assembled, best perceived quality and longevity, retains best resale value.
    • Cons: Most expensive option, typically 2-3x the cost of aftermarket.
    • When to Choose: Recommended if budget allows and you plan to keep the car long-term. Ideal for those wanting the least risk of fitment issues or future problems.
  2. Top-Quality Tier Aftermarket Brands (Denso, Bosch, Delphi, Carter, Airtex):
    • Pros: Significantly cheaper than Mopar OEM, often still manufactured to high standards (Denso, Bosch often supplied original pumps to Chrysler/Fiat), good reliability track record, widely available. May include fuel level sensor or require transfer.
    • Cons: Very rare potential for slight variations requiring minor adjustments during install. Slightly less perceived quality than genuine Mopar, though real-world performance is often equivalent.
    • When to Choose: The most popular choice offering a great balance of cost savings and reliable performance. Denso, Bosch, and Delphi are highly regarded. Look for units with robust warranties (lifetime is ideal).
  3. Economy Aftermarket Brands:
    • Pros: Lowest upfront cost.
    • Cons: Significantly higher risk of premature failure (can happen within a year or two), potentially lower build quality materials/components, increased chance of fitment issues causing leaks or noisy operation, shorter warranties or limited coverage. May not include a fuel level sensor (requiring careful transfer).
    • When to Choose: Generally not recommended for a critical part like the fuel pump unless finances are extremely tight and the vehicle isn't expected to stay operational long. View as a potential stop-gap measure only. Failure risk is much higher.

Fuel Pump Maintenance: Extending the Life of Your Dart's Lifeline

While the fuel pump will eventually need replacement due to age and use, proactive steps can maximize its lifespan:

  • Avoid Constant Low Fuel Levels: This is the single most impactful action. Fuel cools and lubricates the pump motor. Driving consistently with the tank below 1/4 full forces the pump to operate hotter, accelerating wear and potential failure. Make it a habit to refill at or above the 1/4 mark. Reserve low fuel levels for rare emergencies only.
  • Use High-Tier Gasoline (Optional but Recommended): Major brands with "Top Tier Detergent Gasoline" certification contain detergent additives proven to keep fuel injectors and intake valves cleaner. While the direct effect on the pump itself isn't documented as dramatically as on injectors, cleaner fuel overall reduces the load on filters downstream and minimizes the potential for injector issues that could indirectly affect pump performance perception. It's a best practice for overall engine health. Choose reputable stations with high turnover.
  • Address Fuel Filter Issues: The 2013 Dart often lacks an inline serviceable fuel filter, relying primarily on the filter sock on the pump intake. If contaminants clog this sock, the pump struggles and overheats. If you experience poor performance and suspect contamination before pump failure, diagnosing and resolving the source is crucial. If the pump is being replaced due to contamination, replacing the sock if not already included is wise. Always inspect and clean the tank interior if possible during replacement if debris is suspected.
  • Ensure Optimal Electrical Health: Weak batteries force the starter and other components, including the fuel pump, to work harder under low voltage. Corroded battery terminals increase resistance, leading to voltage drops. A failing alternator can cause damaging voltage spikes. Action: Keep the battery terminals clean and tight. Replace the battery promptly when it weakens. Address any charging system warning lights immediately. Ensure the fuel pump circuit connections are clean and secure.

Related Systems: How the Fuel Pump Interacts with Other Components

The fuel pump doesn't work in isolation. Problems with other components can mimic fuel pump failure or place extra strain on it:

  • Fuel Filter: A heavily clogged primary or secondary filter (if equipped) restricts fuel flow, causing symptoms similar to a weak pump and forcing the pump to work harder. Always inspect or replace filters during pump diagnosis or replacement.
  • Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR): Located on or near the fuel rail, the FPR maintains constant pressure. A faulty FPR (leaking internally or sticking) causes low or high pressure, mimicking pump issues. Pressure testing helps differentiate.
  • Fuel Injectors: Severely clogged injectors restrict fuel flow to the engine, mimicking pump problems. Faulty injectors leaking internally can cause pressure drops. Fuel pressure and injector tests can identify this.
  • Electrical System (Relay, Fuse, Wiring): As discussed in diagnosis, a bad relay, blown fuse, corroded wire, or poor connection at the pump harness will prevent the pump from running or running correctly, mirroring pump failure itself.
  • Fuel Lines: Kinked, pinched, or collapsed fuel lines restrict flow. Rust or debris inside lines can block passage. Inspect lines during major work.
  • Engine Control Module (ECM): The ECM controls the fuel pump relay operation. While rare, an ECM failure affecting the pump driver circuit could cause a no-pump condition.
  • Camshaft/Crankshaft Position Sensors: Critical for ECM to activate fuel pump. If either sensor fails totally, the ECM won't trigger the pump to prime or run. Diagnosis involves checking signals.

Understanding the Importance of Genuine Parts for Critical Systems

While aftermarket parts offer savings for many components, critical systems like the fuel pump present a different equation. The fuel pump is the literal heart of the engine's fuel delivery. A failure while driving can be dangerous. OEM parts offer the strongest assurance of compatibility, longevity, and meeting the exact engineering specifications set by the manufacturer (FCA in this case). For many owners, the extra investment in a genuine Mopar fuel pump module is justified by the peace of mind and reduced risk of costly and inconvenient repeat failures. If opting for aftermarket, always choose premium-tier suppliers like Denso (who frequently supplied the original pumps to Chrysler) over the cheapest available option.

Taking proactive steps to maintain your Dart's fuel system significantly reduces the likelihood of unexpected fuel pump failure. Recognizing the symptoms early allows you to address the issue before you're stranded. Understanding the replacement options ensures you make an informed decision based on your budget and the vehicle's intended lifespan, restoring your 2013 Dodge Dart's reliable performance.