Where Is the 2013 Dodge Durango Fuel Pump Relay Located? A Comprehensive Guide

The fuel pump relay for the 2013 Dodge Durango is exclusively located in the underhood Power Distribution Center (PDC), specifically in socket position T1, which is the top right socket (when viewing the fuse box diagram and facing the relays/fuses with the front of the vehicle pointing away from you). Finding it is straightforward: lift the plastic top cover off the large black rectangular fuse box near your engine's battery, then lift the inner cover which has a detailed fuse and relay diagram printed on its underside. Locate the label "T1" for the Fuel Pump Relay.

Demystifying the Underhood Power Distribution Center (PDC)

The PDC is the primary electrical hub for your Durango's engine compartment circuits. It houses fuses (which protect wires from overloads) and relays (which act as switches, using a low-current signal to control a high-current device like the fuel pump). Understanding its location and layout is crucial for accessing the fuel pump relay and many other key components. The 2013 Durango’s PDC is typically situated on the driver’s side of the engine bay, immediately behind the battery, though exact positioning can vary slightly. It’s a large, black plastic box with a removable top cover secured by simple latch clips or push-pins. Access is straightforward – no special tools are needed to remove this cover.

Locating the Fuel Pump Relay Inside the PDC

Inside the PDC, you’ll find multiple relays and fuses. To accurately identify the fuel pump relay without confusion, you must reference the printed diagram on the underside of the PDC’s inner cover. This diagram is your definitive map, showing the exact layout and designation for every fuse and relay slot. Lift off the outer cover first, then carefully detach the inner cover. Flip this inner cover over to clearly see the detailed diagram labeled with positions like “R1”, “R2”, “R3”, “F1”, “F2”, etc., corresponding to relays and fuses. Your target is socket position labeled "T1". On the 2013 Durango, this T1 socket houses the Fuel Pump Relay. This "T1" designation is usually located at the top right of the relay/fuse grid when viewing the diagram with the front of the vehicle oriented away from you. Remember: Rely ONLY on the printed diagram under the inner cover for your specific Durango, as vehicle configurations can differ.

Identifying the Fuel Pump Relay Visually

With the correct socket identified (T1), examine the relay itself. A standard automotive relay typically has a small, cube-like shape measuring roughly 1 to 1.5 inches per side. They are usually black in color. Key identifying features include:

  • Terminal Pins: Four or five metal blade terminals extending from the bottom to plug into the socket.
  • Part Number: A number printed directly on the relay body (e.g., common OEM Mopar numbers like 05019906AA, 04869290AB, or 05111955AG – verify yours). While not always present on the case itself, matching the socket position (T1) is the primary identifier.
  • Relay Diagram: Many relays have a small standard automotive relay pin function diagram etched or printed on the plastic case. This shows the standard layout: pins 30 (battery power input), 87 (output to the device, e.g., fuel pump), 85 & 86 (low-current control circuit for the relay coil), and sometimes pin 87a (not used in fuel pump relays).

Preparing to Remove or Test the Relay

Before touching the relay, ensure the vehicle is safely prepared:

  1. Park Safely: Ensure the Durango is parked on level ground.
  2. Apply Parking Brake: Engage the parking brake firmly.
  3. Turn Ignition OFF: Ensure the ignition is completely off. Remove the key.
  4. Disconnect Battery Negative Terminal: This is a CRITICAL safety step to prevent electrical shorts or sparks. Use a wrench to loosen the nut on the negative (-) battery terminal clamp and carefully slide the clamp off the terminal post. Secure the cable away so it cannot accidentally touch the terminal. Battery disconnection resets volatile memory; have radio codes ready.

How to Remove the Fuel Pump Relay

Removing the fuel pump relay is a simple process:

  1. Locate Socket T1: Confirm its position once more using the diagram on the inner cover.
  2. Firm Grasp: Position your fingers firmly over the top and sides of the relay.
  3. Pull Straight Up: Apply steady, vertical upward force. Do not rock or twist excessively, as this can damage the relay terminals or the socket. If stuck, gentle wiggling straight up while pulling is acceptable. The relay should pull free relatively easily. Avoid using tools for removal unless absolutely necessary and with extreme caution to prevent socket damage. Set the removed relay aside in a safe place.

Testing the Fuel Pump Relay

Testing helps determine if the relay is faulty. Common methods include:

  • Swapping: The simplest test is substituting a known good relay of the identical type into socket T1. If your no-start condition resolves, the original relay was faulty. Often, other relays in the PDC (like the horn relay, AC clutch relay, starter relay) use the same part number. Swap with one, verify the donor relay’s original function still works temporarily using that component (e.g., honking the horn), then test cranking the engine. Crucially, you must ONLY swap relays that are the EXACT same part number. Do NOT use a relay from a socket designated for a significantly different function without verifying compatibility first. The printed diagram or your owner's manual may list relay part numbers.
  • Manual Click Test:
    1. Hold the relay firmly.
    2. Listen closely. Apply 12 volts to the coil pins (85 and 86 – consult the relay’s case diagram for pin locations). You can do this carefully using jumper wires connected to the battery terminals (disconnected from the vehicle) or a dedicated 12v power source.
    3. AUDIBLE CLICK: You should hear a distinct, audible mechanical "click" from inside the relay as it energizes.
    4. CONNECTIVITY TEST (Multimeter Required): Using the multimeter in continuity/resistance mode. With the relay UNPOWERED, test resistance between pins 30 and 87 (should be very high/open circuit). With 12v applied to pins 85 and 86 (energizing the relay), test resistance between pins 30 and 87 again – it should drop very low or to 0 Ohms (showing closed circuit continuity). This indicates the switch contacts are functional.
  • Professional Bench Test: Auto parts stores (like AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts) often offer free component testing, including relays. Bring the suspected bad relay to them.

Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump Relay

Common signs point to potential relay failure:

  • Engine Cranks but Fails to Start: This is the most frequent symptom. The starter turns the engine, but without fuel pressure from the pump, ignition cannot occur.
  • Intermittent No-Start Condition: The problem comes and goes unpredictably, often related to relay temperature (heat expansion breaking internal contact) or vibrations momentarily restoring connection. The engine might start sometimes and not others.
  • Sudden Engine Stalling: While driving, a failed relay can cut power to the fuel pump instantly, causing the engine to die abruptly without warning or preceding symptoms like misfires.
  • Inability to Start When Engine is Hot: A failing relay's internal contacts may expand or warp when hot, losing connection until the relay cools down.
  • No Audible Fuel Pump Prime: When turning the ignition key to the "ON" position (not start), you should hear a distinct humming or buzzing sound from the rear for about 2 seconds as the fuel pump primes the system. The ABSENCE of this prime sound strongly suggests a loss of power to the pump, potentially from the relay. (Note: Sound location is typically under the rear seat/floor near the fuel tank). Check your owner's manual for the specific prime sound expectation.
  • Lack of Fuel Pressure: Diagnostically confirmed using a fuel pressure gauge. If pressure doesn't build during prime or crank, and the fuse is good, the relay is suspect.

Replacing the Fuel Pump Relay

If testing confirms the relay is faulty, replacement is necessary:

  1. Obtain the Correct Replacement:
    • Cross-Reference: Always use the exact part number from your old relay or the listing specific to "2013 Dodge Durango Fuel Pump Relay" (T1 position).
    • Verify Specifications: Ensure voltage (12v), current rating, and pin configuration match exactly. Using an incorrect relay can cause electrical problems or component damage.
    • Sources: Mopar dealer parts counter, reputable auto parts stores (bring the old one), reputable online retailers.
  2. Install New Relay:
    • Disconnect Battery: For safety, ensure the negative battery cable is still disconnected.
    • Align Pins: Orient the new relay correctly by matching the pin layout to the socket. Look for guide notches in the socket and ribs on the relay.
    • Press Firmly: Push the relay straight down into socket T1 until it seats fully. You should feel and hear it click or snap firmly into place. Ensure it's not crooked.

Crucial Importance of Correct Relay Identification and Handling

  • Position Matters: Installing the fuel pump relay in any other socket (R1, R2, etc.) will prevent the fuel pump from functioning and could potentially energize another circuit unexpectedly. T1 is its dedicated location.
  • Pin Configuration: Forcing a relay into a socket where the pins don't perfectly align will bend or break the terminals. Double-check alignment before pushing down.
  • Specific Part Number: While relays share similar designs, switching capabilities (amperage) and internal configurations can differ. Using a physically fitting relay not designed for the fuel pump's high current load risks intermittent failure, overheating, or even melting.
  • After-Replacement Check: Once the relay is replaced and the battery reconnected, perform the ignition key prime test (listen for the pump hum). If successful, attempt to start the engine. Verify the relay is functioning normally under load.

Understanding How the Fuel Pump Relay Functions

The relay is an electromagnetic switch. Its purpose is to safely handle the high current required by the fuel pump (which could be 10-15+ amps), using only a small control signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inside the relay:

  • Coil: Terminals 85 and 86 connect to the coil windings.
  • Control Signal: When you turn the key to "ON" or during cranking, the PCM completes the circuit through pins 85 & 86 (one pin gets power, the other is grounded by the PCM).
  • Electromagnet: This current flow creates a magnetic field.
  • Armature: The magnetic field pulls down a small metal arm (armature).
  • Contacts: This armature action physically connects the high-current contacts between pins 30 (constant battery power from the fuse) and pin 87 (output wire going directly to the fuel pump motor).
  • Result: High battery current now flows freely through the relay contacts directly to the fuel pump, activating it. Releasing the key from "START" (or the PCM ending the prime cycle) removes the ground signal from the control circuit (86), collapsing the magnetic field. A small spring pulls the armature back, opening the contacts (30 and 87), which cuts power to the fuel pump immediately.

Related Systems and Components

  • Fuel Pump Fuse: High current flowing from the battery to pin 30 on the relay is supplied through a separate fuse in the PDC. Always inspect the fuel pump fuse if the relay seems unresponsive. Locate its position using the inner cover diagram (e.g., F60 20Amp).
  • Fuel Pump: The relay's failure directly impacts the pump. Conversely, a pump drawing excessive current can overload and damage the relay contacts.
  • Ignition Switch: Provides the initial activation signals to the PCM when turned.
  • Powertrain Control Module (PCM): The computer brain that controls when the relay receives its ground signal (by grounding pin 86). A faulty PCM ground command is rarer than a relay failure but possible.
  • Engine Control: The PCM also provides the ground command for the starter relay. However, the presence of cranking (starter turning) does NOT guarantee the PCM is providing a ground signal to the fuel pump relay – it uses separate circuits.

Essential Safety Precautions

  • Electrical Disconnect: Always disconnect the battery negative terminal before working on the PDC. This eliminates any risk of accidental short circuits, sparks, electrical shock, or airbag deployment while handling connections.
  • Avoid Metal Tools Near Exposed Terminals: Do not let metal tools bridge between live terminals accidentally when working inside the PDC (especially if battery isn't disconnected).
  • Fire Risk: Fuel systems are involved. Any work near them requires caution. Disconnecting the battery significantly reduces fire risks related to electrical shorts near the fuel pump circuit. Keep sparks and open flames away.
  • Protect Components: Handle relays and fuses gently. Avoid excessive twisting force. Ensure terminals are clean and undamaged during removal and installation.
  • Proper Installation: Double-check relay orientation before pushing it down into the socket. Forcing a misaligned relay will damage the socket or the relay.

Troubleshooting Beyond the Relay

If replacing the relay resolves the issue, the repair is complete. If not, further investigation is required for a no-start condition:

  • Confirm Fuse Integrity: Check the fuel pump fuse visually and/or with a multimeter. Replace if blown, and investigate why it blew (potential wiring short).
  • Verify Power at Relay Socket: With the battery connected and ignition in "ON":
    • Test pin 30 (constant hot) – Should have battery voltage.
    • Test pin 86 (PCM control) – Should show battery voltage ONLY when the ignition is turned to "ON" or during cranking.
    • Test for ground on pin 85 – Should be grounded (near 0 Ohms resistance to chassis) at all times, potentially switched momentarily by PCM.
    • Test pin 87 (output): Should have battery voltage only when the relay is energized (ignition "ON" or during crank) and the relay is functioning. Requires a test light or multimeter. Requires ignition ON and a helper or special test lead.
  • Test Fuel Pump Power: At the fuel pump wiring connector near the tank (access often requires interior trim removal), test for voltage during ignition ON prime and during cranking. Be very careful working under the vehicle. Use jack stands if elevated.
  • Listen for Pump Noise: Detailed check during ignition ON sequence, as mentioned previously.
  • Check Fuel Pressure: Use a dedicated fuel pressure test gauge attached to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. No pressure during prime/crank points to a pump or pump circuit issue after verifying relay function.
  • Assess PCM Ground Signals: This typically requires professional diagnostics and a scan tool capable of monitoring PCM inputs/outputs for faults.

Different Durango Trims and Model Years (Relevance to 2013)

For the 2013 Durango, the fuel pump relay location within the PDC (socket T1) is consistent across all trim levels (Express, Crew, Citadel, R/T). It uses the same core 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine platform for V6 models or the 5.7L HEMI V8. While other engine bay components or fuse box layouts might have minor variations between trims or drivetrains, the fuel pump relay's position remains constant. However, this specific location (PDC socket T1) applies ONLY to the 2013 model year. Designations changed in other years like the first gen (2011-2013) or later generations (2014+). Always reference diagrams for your specific model year if troubleshooting non-2013 Durangos.

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