Where is the Fuel Pump Fuse Located in a 2004 Ford Ranger? (Underhood Fuse Box #13)

The fuse powering the fuel pump in a 2004 Ford Ranger is a 20 Amp Mini fuse (color-coded Yellow) located in the underhood Power Distribution Box (PDB). It is specifically designated as Fuse #13 in that box. This is the primary location you need to check if your Ranger's fuel pump isn't receiving power.

If your 2004 Ford Ranger cranks over but refuses to start, one of the first and simplest things to check is the fuel pump fuse. A blown fuse cuts power to the fuel pump, preventing it from priming the system with fuel when you turn the key to the "ON" position and from supplying fuel while the engine is cranking. Locating this fuse quickly is crucial for troubleshooting. Thankfully, in the 2004 Ranger, it's found in the main underhood fuse box.

Understanding Fuse Boxes in the 2004 Ford Ranger

The 2004 Ranger has two primary fuse panels:

  1. The Interior Fuse Panel: Located below the dashboard on the driver's side, near where your left knee would be when seated. This panel contains fuses for interior accessories like the radio, power windows, instrument cluster, and various interior lights. While important, the fuel pump fuse is NOT located here.
  2. The Underhood Power Distribution Box (PDB): This is the larger, critical fuse and relay box situated in the engine compartment. It houses high-amperage fuses (often called maxi-fuses or cartridge fuses) that protect major systems like the engine control module (ECM/PCM), anti-lock brakes (ABS), and the fan, as well as smaller mini fuses for other components, including the fuel pump. It also contains important relays, like the fuel pump relay itself. This is where you will find the fuel pump fuse.

Precisely Locating Fuse #13 (Fuel Pump Fuse)

  1. Access the Underhood Fuse Box: Open the hood of your Ranger. Locate the black, rectangular plastic box near the battery, usually on the driver's side fender apron. It might also be centrally located towards the rear of the engine bay, near the firewall on the driver's side. It will have a removable lid.
  2. Open the PDB Lid: Unlatch or unclip the lid of the Power Distribution Box and lift it off. Store it safely.
  3. Identify the Fuse Diagram: The underside of the lid you just removed is the most reliable resource. It contains a printed schematic or legend listing every fuse and relay in the box by number and their amperage rating and function. If the diagram is missing or illegible:
    • Look for a similar diagram printed directly on the top surface of the fuse box housing itself.
    • Consult your 2004 Ford Ranger owner's manual. It will have a dedicated section illustrating the fuse box layouts and listings.
    • Search online for "2004 Ford Ranger underhood fuse box diagram" to find accurate images.
  4. Find Fuse #13: Using the diagram, locate the position labeled #13. Its function will be clearly marked as "Fuel Pump," "Fuel Pump Motor," or "FP." This is where labeling standardization matters most. The fuel pump circuit was consistently assigned to position #13 in the underhood PDB for the 2004 model year.
  5. Recognize the Fuse: The fuel pump fuse is a standard mini fuse. In the 2004 Ranger, it is typically a 20 Amp (20A) fuse. Mini fuses are smaller than the standard blade fuses (ATO/ATC) often found elsewhere in vehicles. They are identifiable by their smaller plastic body and two thin metal prongs. A 20A mini fuse is usually colored Yellow.

What Does a Blown Fuse Look Like?

Visually inspecting the fuse is necessary:

  1. Intact Fuse: The metal strip (fusible link) inside the clear plastic housing will be intact and unbroken, running continuously between the two metal prongs. The color (yellow for 20A) will generally look uniform.
  2. Blown Fuse: The metal strip inside will be visibly severed or melted. You might also see discoloration (browning or blackening) or cloudiness on the inside of the clear plastic housing. The break is often very obvious once you look closely.

How to Test the Fuel Pump Fuse (Visual + Multimeter)

  1. Visual Inspection: Carefully pull fuse #13 straight out using a fuse puller tool (often provided in the fuse box lid or with the spare fuses) or a pair of needle-nose pliers. Hold it up to a light source. Look through the clear plastic body at the thin metal strip inside. Is it visibly broken or melted? If yes, it's blown.
  2. Multimeter Test (Continuity Check - More Reliable):
    • Set your digital multimeter to the continuity setting (symbol usually looks like a sound wave or diode symbol). If it doesn't have continuity, use the Ohms (Ω) setting on the lowest range.
    • Touch one multimeter probe to one metal prong of the removed fuse.
    • Touch the other multimeter probe to the other metal prong.
    • Continuity Setting: You should hear a continuous beep if the fuse is good. No beep means it's blown.
    • Ohms Setting: A reading close to 0 Ohms (0Ω) indicates a good fuse. A reading of O.L. (Over Limit) or infinity (∞) indicates a blown fuse.

Replacing a Blown Fuel Pump Fuse

  1. Identify the Correct Replacement: You need a 20 Amp Mini fuse. Crucially, it MUST be the correct amperage. Using a higher amp fuse (like 25A or 30A) creates a serious fire hazard as it will not blow when it should, potentially allowing wiring to overheat. Using a lower amp fuse (like 15A) may blow prematurely under normal operation. The color should be Yellow. Always check the label on the fuse box or your owner's manual for the exact amperage requirement.
  2. Locate Spares: Check inside the underhood fuse box lid or the interior fuse panel for a slot containing spare fuses. There is usually at least one spare mini fuse, often the 20A yellow one. If not, you'll need to purchase replacements (readily available at auto parts stores, gas stations, or department stores).
  3. Insert the New Fuse: With the faulty fuse removed, push the new 20A yellow mini fuse firmly and straight down into the vacant slot for position #13. It should seat fully and securely.
  4. Test the Repair: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start the engine). Listen carefully near the fuel tank (rear of the truck) or under the rear seats if accessible. You should hear the fuel pump whir for 2-3 seconds as it pressurizes the fuel rail. If you hear this priming sound, the fuse replacement likely solved the immediate problem.
  5. Attempt Start: Turn the key to the "START" position. If the fuel pump was the only issue, the engine should now crank and start normally.

Why Did the Fuel Pump Fuse Blow in the First Place?

Simply replacing the fuse might fix the symptom temporarily, but understanding why it blew is essential to prevent it from happening again. Possible causes include:

  1. Random Electrical Fault/Weak Fuse: Occasionally, fuses can weaken and fail due to age, vibration, or manufacturing defects. This is less common but possible.
  2. Fuel Pump Motor Issues: This is the most frequent underlying cause. The electric motor inside the fuel pump can begin to fail. As it ages, it draws more current (amperage) than normal. If the pump becomes stiff (bad bearings) or internally shorted, this excessive current draw exceeds the fuse's 20 Amp rating, causing it to blow to protect the wiring.
  3. Wiring Short Circuit: A damaged wire in the fuel pump circuit can cause a direct short to ground. This creates a massive, instantaneous current surge that blows the fuse immediately when power is applied. Damage could occur from chafing against sharp metal, rodent chewing, previous repair issues, or corrosion where wires connect to the pump or in the harness running along the frame.
  4. Fuel Pump Relay Failure (Rare but Possible): While the relay itself is a different component (usually in the same PDB), a relay that fails and causes an internal short could potentially cause a fuse to blow. However, the fuse typically blows before the relay fails catastrophically.

Important Troubleshooting Notes After Replacement

  • Fuse Blows Immediately Again: If the new fuse blows as soon as you turn the key to "ON" or during cranking/starting, this indicates a severe problem. You very likely have a dead short circuit in the wiring harness (fuel pump circuit wire shorted directly to ground) or an extremely shorted fuel pump motor. Do not keep replacing the fuse. Continued attempts risk damaging wiring insulation or connectors. Professional diagnosis is highly recommended. You can try unplugging the fuel pump electrical connector at the tank (access is usually inside the truck bed or by dropping the tank slightly) and then replacing the fuse. If it doesn't blow with the pump disconnected, the pump itself is almost certainly the culprit. If it still blows, the short is in the wiring harness.
  • Fuse Holds But Truck Still Doesn't Start: If the fuse holds (you hear the pump prime when turning the key to "ON"), but the engine still won't start, the problem lies elsewhere. Potential causes include:
    • A faulty Fuel Pump Relay (also located in the underhood PDB - check diagram for its position).
    • A bad fuel pump inertia switch (safety cut-off switch, usually located in passenger footwell kick panel).
    • A failed fuel pump itself (not receiving power due to other issues like a bad relay/inertia switch, or the motor has failed completely even if power reaches it).
    • Issues with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) not commanding the pump relay to energize.
    • Clogged fuel filter.
    • Other non-fuel-related problems (e.g., ignition system failure, severe air intake leak, major sensor failure).
  • Intermittent Problems: A fuse that blows intermittently suggests an issue that sometimes draws excessive current but not always. This could be an intermittently shorting wire or a fuel pump motor nearing failure that sometimes seizes or draws high amperage, especially under load (like high speeds or climbing hills). Diagnosis becomes trickier.

Crucial Safety Precautions

  1. Disconnect the Battery: Before touching any fuses, relays, or electrical connectors, especially if you suspect a wiring short, disconnect the negative (-) terminal of your battery. This eliminates the risk of accidental sparks, short circuits, or electrical shock. Place the disconnected cable away from the battery terminal.
  2. Use Correct Amperage Fuse: As emphasized, never replace the 20A fuel pump fuse with one of a higher amperage (e.g., 25A, 30A). This defeats the purpose of the fuse and creates a significant fire risk if an overload or short circuit occurs.
  3. Avoid Metal Tools: Use plastic fuse pullers or plastic-tipped tools when possible to avoid accidentally causing a short across fuse terminals or surrounding metal surfaces.
  4. Fuel Vapors: Be aware that gasoline vapors are highly flammable. While working on the fuse box under the hood is generally safe from fuel vapors, use caution if working near the fuel tank. Do not smoke or create sparks near the vehicle when working on fuel system components.

Where NOT to Look for the 2004 Ranger Fuel Pump Fuse

To save time, avoid these locations:

  • Interior Fuse Panel (Driver's Knee Panel): While crucial for other systems, the fuel pump fuse (#13) is not here.
  • Fuse Panel Diagram Printed on Trunk Lid / Rear Hatch: Some vehicles have these; Rangers typically do not.
  • Under Rear Seats: The fuel pump itself is located there (on most models, accessed under a cover in the truck bed floor or inside the cab under rear seats), but its wiring connector is there, not the fuse. The fuse is upstream in the power supply circuit.
  • Near the Battery Itself (Unless it's the main PDB): The PDB is usually adjacent to, but distinct from, the battery.

When Replacing the Fuse Isn't Enough: Other Fuel Pump Circuit Checks

If replacing fuse #13 didn't restore operation, you need to investigate the rest of the fuel pump circuit:

  1. Check the Fuel Pump Relay:
    • Location: Also in the underhood Power Distribution Box (PDB). Check the diagram on the lid for its position (common locations might be R1, R301, or similar; specific slot number varies – check the diagram!).
    • Testing: The simplest test is substitution. Find an identical relay in the PDB used for a non-critical system (like the horn or rear window defroster) that you know works temporarily. Swap it into the fuel pump relay socket. If the pump now primes, the original relay is bad. More reliably, you can use a multimeter to check for power input to the relay socket (constant power and switched power from the ignition/PCM) and test the relay's internal operation.
  2. Check the Fuel Pump Inertia Switch:
    • Location: Almost always inside the cabin. In the 2004 Ranger, it's typically located on the passenger side, near the kick panel (the vertical panel below the glove box) or behind the kick panel. Consult your manual.
    • Function: A safety device that cuts power to the fuel pump in the event of a collision. It can sometimes trip during hard bumps or even be accidentally bumped.
    • Resetting: The switch has a prominent red button on top. If tripped, simply press this button firmly down to reset it. You should hear a distinct click. Listen for the pump to prime when turning the key "ON" after resetting.
  3. Inspect Wiring Harness: Visually inspect the wiring harness running from the underhood PDB/fuse/relay, along the frame rail, towards the fuel tank and pump. Look for obvious damage (cuts, abrasion exposing wires, melted insulation, rodent chews) or loose/damaged connectors. Pay special attention near areas prone to movement or rubbing (sharp edges, clamps). Repairing damaged wiring requires proper tools and expertise.
  4. Test for Power at the Fuel Pump Connector: This is the definitive test to see if power is reaching the pump itself.
    • Access: Requires locating the fuel pump electrical connector. For bed-mounted tanks, this connector is often under the truck, near the top of the fuel tank or along the frame rail leading to it. For in-cab tanks (under rear seat), the connector might be inside the cab, under the carpet near the seat base or access panel.
    • Procedure (Simplified - Disconnect Battery First!):
      • Turn ignition to OFF. Disconnect battery negative (-) terminal.
      • Locate and unplug the fuel pump connector.
      • Reconnect battery negative terminal (temporarily for test).
      • Set multimeter to DC Volts (20V scale).
      • Have an assistant turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (listen momentarily for the pump to prime - it shouldn't because unplugged).
      • Probe the correct terminals in the vehicle harness side (not the pump side) of the connector. Usually, one wire is power (often Pink with a Black stripe, or solid colors like Green/Orange – refer to wiring diagram!) and one is ground (Black). Touch the multimeter black probe to a known good ground (bare metal on chassis/engine). Touch the red probe to the power wire terminal in the connector.
      • You should see approximately battery voltage (12-13V) for 1-2 seconds after turning the key "ON". No voltage indicates a problem upstream (fuse, relay, inertia switch, wiring). Good voltage indicates the problem likely lies downstream (fuel pump motor or its internal wiring).
  5. Fuel Pump Replacement: If voltage reaches the pump connector correctly but the pump doesn't run and the fuse/relay/inertia switch are good, the fuel pump motor itself is likely faulty. Replacing the fuel pump is a significantly more involved repair, often requiring lowering the fuel tank or accessing it from inside the bed or cab, and should be done cautiously due to fuel and electrical hazards.

FAQs on 2004 Ford Ranger Fuel Pump Fuse & Related Issues

  1. Is there another fuse for the fuel pump? In the standard 2004 Ranger setup, the primary and dedicated fuse for the fuel pump circuit is fuse #13 in the underhood box. However, in rare cases (like major mods or aftermarket systems), other large fuses could potentially affect overall vehicle power or protection, but #13 is the direct one.
  2. Is the fuse location the same for all 2004 Ranger models (2.3L, 3.0L, 4.0L, Edge, XLT, etc.)? Yes. Ford standardized the fuse box layout and labeling across trim levels (XL, XLT, FX4, Edge) and engine sizes (2.3L 4-cylinder, 3.0L V6, 4.0L V6) for the 2004 model year. Fuse #13 in the engine bay power box is always the fuel pump fuse. Regions may differ slightly - North American models are consistent.
  3. What's the difference between the fuse and the relay? The fuse (#13) is a safety device that physically breaks the circuit (melts) if too much current flows. The relay is an electrically operated switch. A low-power signal from the PCM (when you turn the key on) energizes the relay coil, which then "closes" a switch inside the relay, allowing the high current needed by the fuel pump to flow through the fuse and to the pump. Think of the relay as the switch, the fuse as the breaker.
  4. How much does it cost to replace the fuse? A pack of standard mini fuses (including 20A) costs only a few dollars at any auto parts store, gas station, or department store automotive section. Individual fuses are often less than $1.
  5. Can I drive with a blown fuel pump fuse? No, absolutely not. The engine will crank but will not start and run because the fuel pump isn't supplying any fuel. The vehicle will be completely immobilized until the fuse is replaced or the underlying fault is fixed.
  6. What are the symptoms of a blown fuel pump fuse? The most common symptom is the engine cranking normally when you turn the key, but it never starts. You will NOT hear the brief whirring sound (about 2-3 seconds) of the fuel pump priming when you turn the key to the "ON" position (before cranking). Check engine light (CEL) might or might not be illuminated – a blown fuse alone won't always trigger a code.
  7. Why is the fuse always under the hood in the power box? Placing high-current and critical system fuses near the battery minimizes wiring length for these circuits, improving efficiency and reducing voltage drop. It also centralizes protection for major components. The wiring running all the way to the back of the truck carries a lot of current and needs robust protection close to its source.

Conclusion: Start with Fuse #13

When your 2004 Ford Ranger refuses to start but cranks, and you don't hear the fuel pump prime at key-on, checking fuse #13 (20A mini, yellow) in the underhood Power Distribution Box is the fastest, easiest, and most cost-effective first diagnostic step. Locating the underhood box, using the diagram on the lid or in your manual, identifying position #13, and visually inspecting (or testing) that fuse can provide an immediate answer. While a blown fuse often points to a larger problem (like a failing fuel pump), replacing it correctly gets your Ranger running again in many cases. Remember the critical safety steps: disconnect the battery before electrical work and always use the specified 20 Amp fuse. If fuse #13 is good or blows again immediately, proceed systematically through checking the fuel pump relay, inertia switch, and wiring to diagnose the true cause of your starting issue.

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