Why Your 2005 Chevy Equinox Fuel Pump is Crucial & How to Deal With Failure

The 2005 Chevrolet Equinox fuel pump is a critical component hidden inside the fuel tank, responsible for delivering gasoline at precise pressure to the engine. Failure of the fuel pump in a first-generation Equinox (2005-2009) is a common and often sudden problem, leaving drivers stranded. Symptoms include engine sputtering, hard starting, loss of power, or a complete failure to start. Diagnosing involves checking fuel pressure and electrical signals, and replacement requires accessing the pump module through an access panel under the rear seat, a safer and often cheaper alternative to dropping the entire fuel tank.

Your 2005 Chevy Equinox relies entirely on its fuel pump to run. When this pump fails – and unfortunately, in the GMT360 platform vehicles like the Equinox, it’s a common point of failure as they age – the consequences are immediate and severe: the engine stops. Understanding the role of the fuel pump, recognizing the early signs of trouble, and knowing the repair process are essential for any 2005 Equinox owner looking to maintain reliability and avoid costly breakdowns.

What the 2005 Chevy Equinox Fuel Pump Does & Why It Fails

The electric fuel pump performs one fundamental, non-negotiable task: it draws fuel from the tank and pushes it forward through the fuel lines at a consistent, high pressure required by the engine's fuel injection system. Without this steady flow of pressurized fuel, the engine cannot ignite gasoline in its cylinders, leading to stalling or complete failure to start.

The 2005 Equinox fuel pump is part of a larger assembly called the fuel pump module. This module contains the pump itself, a float and sender unit that measures fuel level (feeding your gas gauge), a fuel filter sock preventing large debris from entering the pump, the fuel pressure regulator (depending on design year), and the electrical connections. The entire module sits submerged in the fuel tank.

Several common factors contribute to 2005 Chevy Equinox fuel pump failure:

1. Age and Wear: The 2005 Equinox is now approaching or exceeding two decades old. Fuel pumps have a finite lifespan. Over years of continuous operation, the internal components wear down. The electric motor brushes erode, bearings can wear, and impeller vanes can fatigue. This gradual degradation eventually leads to reduced performance or complete failure.
2. Running on Low Fuel: Consistently running your Equinox with less than a quarter tank of fuel accelerates wear. Gasoline acts as a coolant and lubricant for the pump's electric motor. When the pump operates exposed to air (due to low fuel levels), it overheats significantly, drastically shortening its lifespan.
3. Contaminated Fuel: Over time, dirt, rust, and debris can accumulate inside the fuel tank. While the pump inlet has a filter sock, extremely fine particles can still pass through or clog the sock itself, forcing the pump to work harder and potentially causing damage. Water accumulation in the tank (often from condensation, especially in humid climates or with low fuel levels) is also detrimental.
4. Electrical Issues: Problems not directly caused by the pump can mimic failure or contribute to it. Blown fuses, a faulty fuel pump relay (a common issue in this vintage GM), corroded wiring connections, or damage to wiring harnesses running near the tank can deprive the pump of the voltage or ground it needs to operate correctly. A failing pump itself can also draw excessive amperage, blowing fuses or damaging the relay.
5. Clogged Fuel Filter: Many fuel filter designs are integrated into the fuel pump module on this generation Equinox. This filter traps rust, scale, and debris from the tank before it reaches the fuel injectors. A severely clogged filter creates excessive resistance to fuel flow. The pump must strain against this high pressure differential, causing it to overwork, overheat, and fail prematurely.
6. Fuel Quality: While less common as the sole cause, consistently using low-quality gasoline with insufficient detergents can lead to deposits that increase friction within the pump mechanism over a very long period.
7. Heat and Vibration: The pump environment is inherently stressful. It sits within gasoline (less of a coolant at low levels), generates its own heat during operation, and is subject to vehicle vibrations over countless miles.

Recognizing the Signs of a Failing or Failed 2005 Chevy Equinox Fuel Pump

Ignoring the warning signs leads to a no-start situation, often at the most inconvenient time. Be vigilant for these symptoms:

1. Engine Cranks But Won't Start: This is the most definitive sign of a likely fuel pump failure. When you turn the key to "Start," the engine spins over vigorously (cranks) but never catches and runs. This clearly indicates fuel isn't reaching the engine in sufficient quantity or pressure.
2. Engine Sputtering or Stalling: Intermittent loss of power while driving, particularly under load (accelerating, climbing hills, carrying passengers/cargo) or at higher speeds. The engine may feel like it's "missing" or hesitate badly before regaining power. It might stall unexpectedly and then restart, or stall and refuse to restart.
3. Hard Starting (Extended Cranking): The engine cranks for several seconds before finally starting. This happens consistently, often worse when the engine is warm (heat soak issue) or after the vehicle has sat for a short period ("vapor lock" scenarios point towards pressure loss, often the pump).
4. Loss of Power (While Driving): Significant and noticeable decrease in engine power. Accelerating becomes sluggish, speed may drop unexpectedly, and the engine struggles to maintain highway speeds.
5. Whining Noise from the Fuel Tank Area: A loud, high-pitched humming or whining noise emanating from under the vehicle, near the rear seats, is often an indicator of a worn fuel pump struggling to operate. However, the absence of noise doesn't guarantee a good pump.
6. No Noise at Key-On: When you turn the ignition key to the "On" position (without cranking the engine), you should typically hear a brief (1-2 second) humming or buzzing sound coming from the rear of the vehicle. This is the fuel pump priming the system and building pressure. A complete lack of this priming sound suggests the pump isn't getting power (fuse, relay, wiring) or the pump motor itself has failed.
7. Surging (Oscillating RPM at Constant Speed/Throttle): A rhythmic increase and decrease in engine RPM or power output while driving at a steady speed or holding a constant throttle position. This can indicate inconsistent fuel delivery.
8. Check Engine Light (CEL): A failing fuel pump will often not trigger a specific fuel pump circuit code. Instead, the reduced fuel pressure causes lean conditions (too much air, not enough fuel) in one or more cylinders. This can result in generic codes like P0171 (System Too Lean Bank 1) or P0174 (System Too Lean Bank 2), or misfire codes like P0300 (Random Misfire), P0301-P0306 (Cylinder specific misfire). Lack of pressure can sometimes trigger P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low). However, many pump failures occur without triggering any diagnostic codes initially.

Diagnosing Problems with the 2005 Chevy Equinox Fuel Pump

Accurate diagnosis is crucial. Pump replacement is involved and somewhat expensive; you don't want to replace it unnecessarily. Start with simple checks before jumping to conclusions:

1. Listen for the Prime:

   • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start the engine).
   • You should hear a distinct humming or buzzing sound coming from the rear seat area for about 1-2 seconds. This is the fuel pump pressurizing the system.
   • No Sound: Indicates a problem with power/ground to the pump or a completely dead pump motor. Proceed to check fuses and relay.
   • Sound Present: Doesn't guarantee the pump is good (it could be spinning weakly), but rules out a complete power cut or total motor failure.

2. Check the Fuel Pump Fuse: The owner's manual will specify the location and amperage rating for the fuel pump fuse. Common locations are the underhood fuse box or the interior fuse panel near the driver's side door (often labeled "Fuel Pump," "FP," "ECM," or "PCM"). Visually inspect the fuse for a broken filament. Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Replace any blown fuses with the exact same amperage rating. Important: If the new fuse blows immediately upon turning the key on, you have a serious short circuit in the wiring or a pump motor internally shorted to ground – diagnosis requires a professional.

3. Check the Fuel Pump Relay:

   • Locate the fuel pump relay (consult manual or online sources/diagrams for your specific Equinox engine – typically found in the underhood fuse box).
   • Finding the Relay Box: It's usually labeled on the cover. Common relay designations include "Fuel Pump," "FP," "ECM B," or "PCM."
   • Swap Test: If possible, find an identical relay elsewhere in the fuse box that controls a non-essential system like the horn. Swap the suspected fuel pump relay with this known good relay. Turn the key to "ON". If the fuel pump now primes, the original relay is faulty. This is a very common point of failure on GM vehicles of this era.
   • Audible Click: Sometimes you can hear or feel a faint click from the relay when turning the key "ON". A lack of click suggests an issue triggering the relay (further upstream in the circuit).
   • Multimeter Test: Test the relay control circuit and load circuit according to standard relay testing procedures if equipped with the skill and tools. Test for power and ground at the relay socket terminals when appropriate.

4. Check Fuel Pressure: This is the most definitive test. Requires a fuel pressure test kit compatible with GM Schrader valve test ports. These ports are generally located on the fuel rail near the engine intake manifold.

   • Locate the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. It looks like a tire valve stem, usually covered by a plastic cap.
   • Relieve system pressure: Exercise extreme caution! Use a rag over the valve while carefully depressing the core valve to vent remaining fuel pressure. Fuel spray is dangerous and flammable. Ensure ignition is OFF.
   • Connect the fuel pressure gauge securely to the Schrader valve.
   • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start the engine). The fuel pump should run for 1-2 seconds, building pressure. Observe the gauge.
   • Specification: The target fuel pressure for the 2005 Equinox (with the I6 3.4L engine – double-check for 4-cyl models if applicable) is typically 55-62 PSI (3.8 - 4.3 bar) with the engine OFF and pump priming.
   • Check Static Hold: After the pump stops priming (key back to OFF), pressure should hold reasonably steady for several minutes. A rapid pressure drop indicates a leaking fuel injector(s), a faulty fuel pressure regulator integrated into the pump module, or a check valve inside the pump.
   • Actual Pressure Readings:
     • Low/No Pressure: A reading significantly below spec or zero after priming points directly towards a faulty pump (weak, failing, or blocked), a clogged fuel filter sock, a faulty fuel pressure regulator, or occasionally a severe fuel line restriction or leak.
     • Pressure Drops Slowly: Points more towards an injector leak or regulator leak.
     • Pressure Holds Correctly: If pressure is within spec and holds, the pump is likely not the primary cause of drivability issues.

5. Check Electrical Power at the Pump Connector: If pressure is low or non-existent, and fuses/relay are good, you need to verify voltage is actually reaching the pump itself. This requires accessing the wiring connector at the top of the fuel pump module.

   • Gain access by lifting the rear seat cushion. See Replacement section below for access details.
   • Once the cover is removed, locate the electrical connector plugged into the fuel pump module.
   • Back-probe Testing: Highly Recommended Method: Carefully insert multimeter probes into the back of the connector while it is plugged in to measure voltage during prime. Pin identification is crucial: Typically, the Pink/Black wire (for this generation GM) is the 12V+ feed from the relay. The Black/White wire is the ground. With the key turned to "ON" (not start), you should measure battery voltage (approx. 11.5V - 12.6V) for about 1-2 seconds on the pump feed wire. Testing requires specialized tools/skills and caution against sparks near fuel vapors.
   • Voltage Drop Test (Advanced): Tests integrity of the power and ground circuits under load. Measures the difference between battery voltage directly and the voltage reaching the pump. A significant voltage drop (> 1 volt) indicates resistance/corrosion in the wiring or connections.
   • Resistance Check (Pump Motor Side): Disconnect the connector. Measure the resistance between the pump power and ground terminals on the pump/module side connector. A specification isn't always readily published, but generally, a reading of infinity (open circuit) means a bad pump motor. A very low reading near 0 ohms usually indicates an internal short. A typical reading might be 1-5 ohms. Consult specific pump module testing info if available.

Replacing the 2005 Chevy Equinox Fuel Pump Module: What You Need to Know

Due to the pump's location inside the sealed fuel tank, replacement involves removing the entire fuel pump module. Fortunately, GM equipped most Equinox models with an access panel under the rear seat, significantly simplifying the job. Dropping the entire fuel tank is generally not required and is much more labor-intensive.

Necessary Supplies & Parts:

1. Replacement Fuel Pump Module: Critical Choice.
   • OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer): Delphi is often the original supplier (e.g., GM Part # 15200082 for many I6 applications - VERIFY FITMENT FOR YOUR VIN). OEM modules are generally the most reliable and best-fitting option, though more expensive ($200-$400+).
   • Premium Aftermarket: ACDelco Professional (GM's aftermarket brand), Bosch, Denso, Spectra Premium. These are reputable brands offering high-quality replacements, often with warranties similar to OEM. Prices range ($150-$350).
   • Economy Aftermarket: Many cheaper brands exist. Strong Caution: Fuel pump quality varies drastically. Choosing the very cheapest option frequently leads to premature failure, poor fuel sender accuracy (affecting gas gauge), and significant fitment issues requiring modification. This is not an area where extreme budget savings typically pay off.
   • Ensure Correct Fit: Provide your VIN to the parts supplier whenever possible. The 2005 model year saw both the 3.4L L6 and the 3.5L V6. While pump module design is similar across GMT360/370 platforms (Equinox, Torrent, Vue, Vibe), confirmation is essential.
2. New Fuel Pump Lock Ring: This large plastic ring secures the module in the tank. It is often distorted or cracked during removal. A new ring is cheap insurance ($5-$20). Do not re-use the old ring; it may not seal correctly. Important: Ensure you get the specific GM style ring, not a generic round one – this ring has tabs.
3. Silicone Grease: Needed for lubricating the new fuel fill neck O-ring seal to ensure it seats correctly and doesn't tear.
4. New O-Rings/Gasket Kit: Most quality module assemblies include new O-rings for the fuel line connectors and the large O-ring seal for the tank opening. If not included, purchase them separately.
5. Liquid Penetrating Oil (e.g., PB Blaster): Crucial for freeing stuck lock ring bolts.
6. Basic Hand Tools:
   • Sockets and ratchets (metric sizes: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm are common)
   • Extensions (short and medium)
   • Flat head screwdriver (pry tool)
   • Torx bits (e.g., T20, T25, T30 - common for GM interior trim panels)
   • Needle nose pliers
   • Fuel line disconnect tools (size usually 5/16" and 3/8" for GM quick-connects)
   • Torque wrench capable of low ft-lb settings
   • Shop towels or rags
   • Safety glasses and nitrile gloves
   • Fire extinguisher readily accessible

Safety Precautions: ABSOLUTELY MANDATORY

Working on the fuel system involves inherent dangers due to flammability and pressurized lines.

1. Work Outdoors or in a Very Well-Ventilated Area: Fuel vapors are highly flammable and heavier than air. Excellent airflow is critical.
2. Disconnect Battery: Disconnect the NEGATIVE battery terminal before ANY work to prevent sparks.
3. Relieve Fuel System Pressure: As described earlier in the fuel pressure test section. Connect a pressure gauge and safely release pressure through the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.
4. Drain Fuel Tank As Much As Possible: Drive the vehicle until fuel level is as low as safely feasible before starting the job. This minimizes fuel spillage and vapors inside the tank. NEVER work on the pump module with a full or even half-full tank. Aim for less than 1/4 tank.
5. No Smoking, Sparks, or Open Flames: Obvious, but critical. Prohibit smoking anywhere near the workspace. Ensure all ignition sources (including pilot lights from water heaters, furnaces, etc.) are absent.
6. Eye and Skin Protection: Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves throughout the process.
7. Keep Fire Extinguisher Close: Have a Class ABC fire extinguisher within immediate reach.
8. Clean Spills Immediately: Use shop towels to wipe up any spilled gasoline instantly. Place soaked rags outside to air dry away from any ignition sources.
9. Ground Yourself: Touch unpainted metal on the chassis frequently to dissipate static electricity before handling fuel system components.

Step-by-Step Replacement Process (Access Panel Method):

1. Prepare Vehicle: Park on a level surface. Engage parking brake firmly. Disconnect NEGATIVE battery cable. Relieve fuel pressure via Schrader valve. Drain the fuel tank down to the lowest safe level.
2. Access the Fuel Pump Module:
   • Open rear passenger doors. Fold the rear seat bottom cushion forward (it usually just lifts upwards at the front edge and then pivots backwards or completely out).
   • Locate the rectangular metal or plastic access panel set into the vehicle's floor pan under the carpeting (more central under the seat cushion position). Often held by 4-6 screws or bolts (Phillips, Torx, or 10mm bolts are common).
   • Remove the fasteners and lift the access panel cover away. You'll now see the top of the fuel tank and the fuel pump module mounted within it.
3. Disconnect Electrical Connector: Locate the wiring harness connector plugged into the top of the fuel pump module. Depress the locking tab and carefully unplug it. Inspect the terminals for corrosion; clean with electrical contact cleaner if needed.
4. Disconnect Fuel Lines: The module will have 1 or 2 quick-connect fuel lines attached.
   • Tool Required: You MUST use the correct size fuel line disconnect tool(s). Forcing connections apart without the tool can break the plastic fittings.
   • Types: GM typically uses Spring Lock Coupler connectors on this vintage. Slide the correct size tool (e.g., 3/8" or 5/16") around the fuel line neck and push it firmly inwards towards the fitting. This compresses the retaining tabs inside the coupling.
   • While holding the tool compressed, pull the fuel line connector straight backwards off the module's nozzle. Expect a small amount of fuel leakage; have rags ready. Cap or plug the disconnected fuel lines to prevent excessive spillage or contamination.
5. Remove the Fuel Pump Lock Ring: The module is held in the tank by a large plastic ring with multiple tabs. Often, these rings are corroded or difficult to turn after years of exposure to fuel vapors.
   • Spray penetrating oil around the ring bolt threads and where the ring meets the tank flange.
   • Using a brass punch or a large flat-head screwdriver and hammer, GENTLY tap the ring in a COUNTER-CLOCKWISE direction (looking down on it) to break it free. NEVER STRIKE HARD ENOUGH TO CRACK THE FUEL TANK PLASTIC. If the ring is badly stuck, careful persistence with penetrating oil is needed. Special spanner wrenches exist for this ring but are often not required if the ring isn't excessively tight.
   • Once loose, unscrew the ring completely by hand and lift it off the module flange. Set aside the old ring for replacement with the new one later.
6. Remove the Old Fuel Pump Module:
   • Carefully lift the old module straight up and out of the fuel tank opening. Keep it level to avoid spilling excess fuel inside the tank.
   • Be mindful of the attached wiring for the fuel level sender; ensure nothing is caught as you lift it out.
   • Place the old module into a drain pan or large container. Allow residual fuel to drain into the container. This fuel should be disposed of properly at a hazardous waste facility – do not pour it down drains!
7. Transfer Components (IF REQUIRED): Compare the old module with the new one. If the new module doesn't come with the fuel level sender float arm pre-installed (unlikely on complete modules, common on pump-only replacements – which aren't recommended for this access point), you may need to transfer the float assembly and sender from the old module to the new one. This requires extreme care and precision, as the sender wiper contacts are delicate. Misalignment will lead to inaccurate fuel gauge readings. Follow any instructions provided precisely. Most prefer to replace the entire module assembly to avoid this risk.
8. Install the New Module:
   • Critical: Ensure the large tank opening O-ring on the old module is removed. Clean the tank sealing flange groove meticulously of all old seal material, grime, and debris. The surface must be perfectly clean and dry.
   • Lubricate the brand new large black O-ring seal (supplied with the new module) lightly with a silicone-based grease ONLY. Do NOT use petroleum-based grease or oil – they degrade the rubber. Apply grease evenly around the entire O-ring.
   • Position the new O-ring correctly into the groove on the tank neck flange.
   • Remove any protective caps from the new pump module's fuel nozzles.
   • Carefully lower the new fuel pump module straight down into the fuel tank, ensuring it is oriented correctly (usually alignment marks or keyways ensure proper installation). Keep it level. Lower it until the module flange seats firmly against the tank's flange.
9. Install New Lock Ring:
   • Place the new lock ring onto the pump module flange.
   • Align the ring's tabs correctly. Thread the ring onto the tank neck flange by hand, turning it CLOCKWISE (looking down), ensuring it engages smoothly without cross-threading. It must go on easily by hand at first.
   • Tighten the lock ring securely using a brass punch and hammer. Tap it in a CLOCKWISE direction firmly until it is snug. Avoid over-tightening which can crack the plastic tank. The ring should feel seated and tight without excessive force. Torque specifications are rare but aim for firm contact. This is where experience helps; if using a spanner wrench, follow its guidance carefully.
10. Reconnect Fuel Lines: Wipe the pump module nozzles clean. Reconnect the quick-connect fuel line(s) to their respective nozzles by pushing them straight on until you hear and feel a distinct "click," indicating the internal retaining ring has locked. Tug firmly on each line to confirm it is secured.
11. Reconnect Electrical Connector: Plug the electrical harness connector firmly into the socket on the top of the pump module. Press until the locking tab clicks into place.
12. Double-Check: Verify the lock ring is tight (not excessively), the O-ring is sealed correctly (no visible gaps or pinches), fuel lines are fully clicked on, and the electrical connector is secure.
13. Reinstall Access Cover: Place the metal access panel cover back into position. Reinstall the fasteners securely. Lay the carpet back down flat.
14. Reinstall Rear Seat Cushion: Return the rear seat cushion to its locked position.
15. Reconnect Battery: Reconnect the NEGATIVE battery terminal.
16. Prime the System: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start) for 2-3 seconds. Wait. Repeat 2-3 times. This allows the fuel pump to run and pressurize the system without cranking the engine. Listen for the normal priming sound.
17. Start the Engine: Attempt to start the engine. It may crank a few extra seconds as air works its way out of the system. Once started, let it idle and carefully inspect for any fuel leaks around the pump module access area under the seat (remove panel again temporarily if very cautious) and under the hood near the fuel rail.
18. Check Fuel Gauge: Confirm the fuel gauge reads correctly (note that the level sender might need to "settle" if the tank was very low, but it should register accurately soon). Add fuel as needed.
19. Test Drive: Take the vehicle on a short test drive, ensuring normal engine power and smooth operation. Monitor for leaks after returning.

Labor Considerations & Cost:

• DIY (Do-It-Yourself): For someone with moderate mechanical skill and the proper tools, replacing the pump via the access panel is a feasible weekend project. The most significant challenges are often breaking the stuck lock ring bolt and ensuring correct O-ring installation. Expect 3-6 hours total for a first-timer being careful.
• Professional Replacement: Taking your 2005 Equinox to a repair shop or dealership is common. Labor costs will vary greatly by region and shop labor rate. Expect 1.5 - 2.5 hours of billed labor for the access panel method.
  • Total Professional Cost Estimate: Combining labor and parts (using a quality pump module), costs typically range from $900-$1,400 USD. Factors affecting cost:
    • Part Cost: OEM module vs. premium aftermarket vs. basic aftermarket ($200-$500+ difference).
    • Labor Rate: Dealer rates ($150-$200/hr) vs. independent shops ($100-$150/hr).
    • Misc. Parts: Lock ring, O-rings.
    • Tax & Shop Fees.

Preventing Premature 2005 Chevy Equinox Fuel Pump Failure

While inevitable with age, you can extend the lifespan of your Equinox's fuel pump:

1. Avoid Running on Low Fuel: Make it a habit to refill your tank once it drops below 1/4 full. Keeping the pump submerged in fuel significantly prolongs its life by preventing overheating and lubrication loss.
2. Use Quality Fuel: While not the primary cause, using gasoline from reputable stations that meet Top Tier detergent standards can help keep the entire fuel system cleaner over the long run. Avoid consistently "bargain" stations known for poor quality.
3. Replace the Fuel Filter: If your specific Equinox has an external inline fuel filter (some models might, check service manual), replace it according to the maintenance schedule (often around 30,000 miles). On models with an integrated filter in the module (most common), this is only replaced when changing the whole module. If experiencing symptoms or after many years/miles, consider replacing the entire module proactively if the filter is internal and known to be a weak point.
4. Address Electrical Issues Promptly: If you experience blown fuel pump fuses or suspect relay problems, have them diagnosed and fixed immediately. Electrical faults stress the pump motor.
5. Use Fuel System Cleaners (Use with Caution): Occasionally using a fuel system cleaner that targets pump lubrication might offer some preventative benefit, but the evidence is anecdotal. Do not expect miracles. Choose reputable brands and avoid excessively aggressive cleaners.

Conclusion: The Heartbeat of Your Engine

The 2005 Chevy Equinox fuel pump is a workhorse component, silently operating thousands of times per hour every time you drive. Understanding its critical role, learning to recognize the distinct signs of its failure (sputtering, no-start, loss of power), and knowing the diagnostic steps can save you from an expensive tow and unexpected downtime. While replacement is a significant job, the built-in access panel makes it far more manageable than needing to drop the fuel tank on many older vehicles. Choosing a quality replacement module and following meticulous installation procedures, especially regarding the O-ring seal and lock ring, are essential for a successful and lasting repair. By maintaining adequate fuel levels and being attentive to early warning signs, you can maximize the lifespan of this vital component and keep your Equinox running reliably for many more miles. When failure happens, prompt action and a thorough understanding of the task at hand will get you back on the road safely.