Your 1998 Ford Explorer Fuel Pump Fuse Location: Solved (and How to Fix It)

The primary fuel pump fuse for your 1998 Ford Explorer is Fuse #13, located in the interior fuse panel (also known as the Central Junction Box - CJB). Find this panel under the dashboard near the driver's right knee, just to the right of the steering column.

If your 1998 Ford Explorer won't start, cranks but doesn't fire, or sputters and dies, a blown fuel pump fuse is a common and relatively easy place to start troubleshooting. Understanding exactly where the fuse is located and how to check it can save you significant time, money, and frustration compared to immediately suspecting a more expensive component like the fuel pump itself. Let's break down everything you need to know about locating and dealing with the fuel pump fuse in your '98 Explorer.

Understanding Fuse Function and Why the Fuel Pump Fuse Matters

A fuse is a critical safety device designed to protect your vehicle's electrical circuits. It contains a thin metal strip engineered to melt and break ("blow") if the electrical current flowing through it exceeds a specific safe level. This prevents excessive current, which could cause overheating, damage wiring, or even start an electrical fire.

The fuel pump requires significant electrical power to operate. It's responsible for drawing fuel from the gas tank and delivering it under pressure to the engine's fuel injection system. The fuel pump fuse (#13 in your 1998 Explorer, rated for 20 Amps) acts as the first line of defense for this vital high-current circuit. If this fuse blows, the fuel pump circuit is completely interrupted. No power reaches the fuel pump, meaning no fuel pressure reaches the engine – resulting in a no-start condition or sudden stalling.

Finding the Interior Fuse Panel (Central Junction Box - CJB)

  1. Location: Position yourself outside the driver's door of your 1998 Explorer. Open the door and kneel down so you can look under the dashboard area. Focus your attention to the right of the steering column, near the inner side of the lower dashboard and reasonably close to where the door would close.
  2. Access: You will see a rectangular or slightly trapezoidal plastic panel. This is the cover for the interior fuse panel (CJB). There might be a small indentation or finger pull tab, but usually, you simply grasp the edges and firmly pull straight towards you. The cover should detach. It may be tethered to the main fuse box structure by one or two plastic retaining clips/hinges – don't force it. Let it hang freely once detached.
  3. Identify the Panel: With the cover removed, you'll see an array of fuses and relays plugged into sockets. Fuses are typically smaller and usually either clear (so you can see the metal strip inside) or colored plastic. Relays are larger, square or rectangular black boxes. Fuse locations are clearly numbered on the panel itself, and there should be a fuse diagram printed on the underside of the panel cover you just removed. Keep this cover handy!

Identifying Fuse #13 (The 20 Amp Fuel Pump Fuse)

  1. Use the Diagram: Immediately refer to the diagram on the back of the fuse panel cover you removed. Look for the listing for "Fuel Pump." The diagram will clearly indicate both the fuse number and its amperage rating. For the 1998 Ford Explorer, the Fuel Pump fuse is consistently identified as Fuse #13 and will be a 20 Amp (20A) fuse.
  2. Locate Fuse #13 on the Panel: Now look at the fuse panel installed in the dashboard. The fuse positions will have numbers printed adjacent to them. These numbers are sometimes small, so good lighting helps.
    • Fuse #13 is most often located in the third row from the top of the interior fuse panel.
    • It's frequently positioned as the third fuse from the left in that specific row.
    • Remember: Always confirm by the printed number ("13") next to the fuse slot. The physical position can vary slightly by exact model trim or if someone has altered the fuse box. Count is Secondary, Printed Number is Primary!
  3. Confirm Amp Rating: Visually check the fuse itself. It should have "20" or "20A" molded or printed on its top surface. It's crucial that the fuse has the correct amp rating. Using a fuse with a higher rating bypasses its safety function and creates a fire hazard. Using one with a lower rating will likely blow immediately again.

How to Test or Replace the Fuel Pump Fuse

  1. Safety First: Before touching any fuses, turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position. If possible, locate your Explorer's battery under the hood. Using an appropriately sized wrench or socket, loosen the nut/bolt securing the NEGATIVE (Black/Minus "-" symbol) battery terminal. Slide the terminal clamp off the battery post and move it safely aside. This eliminates the risk of accidental short circuits or electrical shocks while you work. (Disconnecting the battery will reset the PCM and radio stations).
  2. Locate the Fuse Puller Tool (Optional but Recommended): Check the inside of the fuse panel cover you removed. Ford often provides a small plastic fuse puller tool clipped onto the panel or its cover. It looks like a small pair of tweezers. If not present, small needle-nose pliers can work very carefully, or even your fingers if you can get a firm grip without pinching adjacent fuses. Avoid metal tools if possible, as they can slip and short terminals.
  3. Remove Fuse #13: Grip the fuse #13 firmly with the puller tool or fingers. Pull straight out.
  4. Inspect the Fuse: Hold the fuse up to a good light source. Look carefully at the thin metal strip running between the two blades inside the clear plastic body.
    • Good Fuse: The metal strip will be continuous, intact, and unbroken. It runs straight from one blade contact to the other without gaps.
    • Blown Fuse: You will clearly see that the metal strip is broken. It might be melted completely, have a visible gap, have a burned/melted spot around the break, or look darkened/misty inside the plastic.
    • Note: Some non-clear colored fuses cannot be visually inspected. If unsure, proceed to electrical testing or try a known-good replacement fuse.
  5. Test Electrically (Recommended for Accuracy): The most reliable way to test a fuse is with a multimeter set to continuity or Ohms (resistance).
    • Multimeter (Continuity Setting): Touch one probe to each metal blade of the fuse. If the fuse is good, the multimeter will beep (indicating continuity = closed circuit). No beep indicates a blown fuse (open circuit).
    • Multimeter (Ohms/Resistance Setting - Ω): Touch one probe to each metal blade. A good fuse will show nearly zero Ohms (like 0.1 or 0.2 ohms). A blown fuse will show "OL" (Over Limit) or infinite resistance.
    • Test Light: If you don't have a multimeter, you can use a test light with the ignition turned ON (but remember the battery is disconnected currently!). See step 7 below for the process after battery is reconnected.
  6. Replace a Blown Fuse:
    • Crucial: Use only a fuse of the exact same amperage rating: 20 Amps (20A). The color is usually yellow.
    • Insert the new fuse firmly into the slot corresponding to #13. Ensure it seats fully and completely. You should feel it snap into place.
    • Do Not: Use any other object (like a paperclip, wire, foil, or a fuse of higher amperage) to bypass a blown fuse. This is extremely dangerous and can cause severe electrical damage or fire.
  7. Test the Circuit (After Reconnection):
    • Double-check that your new fuse is properly seated.
    • Reconnect the battery: Slide the NEGATIVE (Black) terminal clamp back onto its post. Tighten the nut/bolt securely.
    • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (but do NOT start the engine yet). You should hear the fuel pump energize near the rear of the vehicle (under or behind the rear seats) for about 2-3 seconds. This prime is normal and indicates the fuel pump circuit is active. If you don't hear it, proceed below.
    • Using a Test Light to Verify Power at Fuse #13: If you didn't hear the prime:
      • Ensure ignition is ON.
      • Insert one end of the test light clip/ground wire firmly to a good ground point (bare metal on the body or chassis - screw heads nearby are often good).
      • Carefully touch the probe tip of the test light to each exposed metal tab on the top of the fuse (#13) in its socket. You must check both sides of the fuse.
      • One side should light up: This is the input (power feed) side coming directly from the battery/fusible link. It should have constant power with the key ON. If neither side lights up, the problem is likely before the fuse panel (e.g., a blown fusible link, ignition switch issue).
      • The other side (going to fuel pump relay) should not light up if fuse is good (and no load): Wait 2 seconds after turning the key ON. This side gets power only when the PCM commands the fuel pump relay to close. During the prime, or with the engine cranking/running, this side should light up (signaling power leaving the fuse). If this side lights immediately with key ON before the relay activates, it indicates a potential wiring short after the fuse.

What If Replacing the Fuse Doesn't Fix the Problem?

  1. The New Fuse Blew Immediately: This strongly suggests a serious electrical fault downstream (after the fuse) causing an overload. Common causes include:
    • Wiring Short Circuit: Damaged, chafed, or pinched wiring harnesses related to the fuel pump circuit (check fuel tank harness going to pump module especially).
    • Failed Fuel Pump: A fuel pump motor can seize or develop internal shorts causing it to draw excessive current. The "whine" or pressure noise changes significantly or the pump runs continuously after engine shutdown.
    • Failed Fuel Pump Relay: A relay with internally fused contacts can short the circuit. Replace relays with the exact correct part number.
    • Faulty Inertia Switch: Located in the passenger footwell (kick panel), designed to cut fuel pump power in an accident. It can sometimes trip without an impact or develop internal faults. Do NOT simply bypass it permanently.
    • Corroded Connectors: Check major connectors along the fuel pump circuit pathway.
  2. No Power at Fuse (Neither side lights): Check the power source. Inspect:
    • Battery: Ensure it's charged and connections are clean/tight (both terminals, ground cables).
    • Ignition Switch: A failed ignition switch may not provide power to circuits in the "ON" position. Other ignition circuits (like radio, dash lights) might also be dead.
    • Fusible Links: These are special, heavy-duty wire sections designed to melt during extreme overloads, located near the battery positive terminal or starter relay. They look like small, flat sections of wire in the main harness. They require careful inspection for continuity. Refer to a 1998 Explorer wiring diagram for locations relevant to the CJB power feed.
  3. Power at Fuse Input Side, but Pump Doesn't Run: Problem is between fuse and pump, or pump itself:
    • Fuel Pump Relay: Located in the interior fuse panel near fuse #13 (check the cover diagram for exact relay position - often #203 or similar designation). Test it by swapping with another identical relay (like the horn relay). Ensure relay is fully seated. Listen/feel for a faint click when turning key ON (indicating activation).
    • Inertia Switch: Find it in the passenger-side front footwell. Locate the connector (usually with wires colored pink/black and orange/light blue). Press the reset button on top firmly. Listen for fuel pump prime with key ON. Test for power input/output at the inertia switch connector using multimeter/test light with key ON.
    • Wiring Continuity: Check harness sections from relay to inertia switch to fuel tank pump module for opens or shorts. Pay attention to the large connector near the frame where the body harness connects to the fuel tank harness.
    • Fuel Pump Itself: With key ON, have an assistant listen carefully near the rear seats or access point while you short the relay terminals temporarily for a couple of seconds (this sends power directly to the pump). If the pump still makes no sound or pressure, it's likely faulty. Perform a fuel pressure test at the engine's fuel rail for definitive proof.

Key Symptoms Pointing to a Possible Fuel Pump Fuse (or Related Circuit) Issue:

  • Engine cranks normally but absolutely will not start, as if there's no fuel.
  • Engine starts and runs fine for a few minutes, then suddenly dies without warning.
  • Intermittent stalling, especially coinciding with bumps in the road (possible loose fuse, wiring issue near fuse box, or inertia switch).
  • Absolutely no sound from the fuel pump area when turning the ignition key to ON (no 2-3 second whine).
  • Complete loss of power to audio system or interior lights might coincide if a main fusible link powering the CJB is blown.

Location Recap (for 1998 Ford Explorer Specifics):

  • Fuse Panel: Interior Fuse Panel / Central Junction Box (CJB).
  • Location: Under the dashboard, driver's side, near right knee, right of steering column.
  • Fuse Number: #13
  • Fuse Rating: 20 Amps (20A) (typically yellow plastic)
  • Access: Pull off plastic cover panel.

Safety Reminders:

  • Always disconnect the battery negative terminal before working on fuses or electrical components to prevent shorts, sparks, and accidental activation of systems like airbags.
  • Use the correct amperage replacement fuse. Never "upgrade" the fuse rating.
  • Visually inspect the fuse. Use a multimeter for confirmation when possible.
  • Fuses blow for a reason. If a new fuse blows immediately, there is a significant electrical fault that must be diagnosed and repaired before replacing the fuse again.
  • Keep a few spare 20A fuses and maybe a fuel pump relay in your glovebox for emergencies.

Knowing the precise 1998 Ford Explorer fuel pump fuse location (#13 in the interior panel) empowers you to tackle a very common cause of starting failure quickly. A quick visual inspection takes only minutes and requires minimal tools. While a blown fuse itself is a simple fix, understanding the potential underlying causes for it blowing is key to a permanent repair and safe operation of your Explorer. If replacing the fuse resolves the issue immediately, but you have no clear cause (like accidentally shorting a test probe), monitor it. Repeated blowing without an obvious trigger requires deeper investigation into the fuel pump circuit to prevent future problems or potential hazards.

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