Your Definitive Guide to the 1995 Toyota Camry Fuel Pump Relay Location & Everything You Need to Know

The fuel pump relay in your 1995 Toyota Camry is located inside the main under-hood fuse and relay box. Specifically, look for a small rectangular or square device plugged into the fuse box panel, typically near the driver's side strut tower in the engine compartment. Its position and labeling might vary slightly depending on exact trim level, but identifying it is straightforward once you know what to look for. Understanding its location is crucial for diagnosing and resolving fuel pump related no-start conditions.

Knowing the fuel pump relay's location is often the critical first step when your Camry cranks but refuses to start, or experiences intermittent stalling potentially linked to fuel delivery issues. This relay acts as an electronically controlled switch, commanded by the Engine Control Module (ECM), to supply high current to the fuel pump, located inside the fuel tank. When the relay fails or has faulty connections, power to the pump is interrupted. The result is the engine will crank normally but not start due to a lack of fuel pressure.

Physical Location: The Under-Hood Fuse and Relay Box

For the 1995 Camry (fourth generation, XV10 chassis), the primary, central fuse and relay box resides in the engine compartment. Here's precisely where to look:

  1. Open the Hood: Securely prop the hood open.
  2. Locate the Black Box: On the driver's side (left side in North America and similar markets), you will see a rectangular black plastic box near the battery or the left front strut tower (suspension component). This is the main under-hood fuse/relay box. It has a lid secured by clips.
  3. Remove the Cover: Unclip the lid (usually by pressing the tabs on the sides or corners) and lift it off. Set it aside safely.
  4. Identify Relays Inside: Inside the box, you'll find several fuses (small, often colorful plastic components with metal ends visible) and larger components. The larger components plugged into sockets are relays. They are typically square or rectangular cubes made of opaque or translucent plastic, measuring roughly 1 to 1.5 inches per side.

Finding the Specific Fuel Pump Relay

While the lid often has a diagram labeling the fuse and relay positions, these diagrams can fade over time or be unclear. Knowing the fuel pump relay's characteristics helps:

  1. Look for Labeling:

    • Ideally, check the underside of the fuse box lid. You are looking for a designation like "FUEL PUMP," "FP," "C/OPN," "MAIN," or occasionally "Circuit Opening Relay (C/OPN)." The exact label varies. The corresponding socket inside the box will have the same designation molded near it.
    • Important Note: On many 1995 Camrys, the relay labeled "Circuit Opening Relay (C/OPN)" is the fuel pump relay. It serves the vital function of opening the circuit only when necessary (like post-crash) but primarily functions to supply power to the pump when running/starting.
    • Also look for a "MAIN" relay designation. In some configurations, a main relay powers the ECM and fuel pump relay simultaneously. A failed "MAIN" relay can mimic a failed fuel pump relay symptom (no power to pump).

  2. Typical Position (When Labeled):

    • The fuel pump relay (or "C/OPN" relay) is frequently located in the row or section of the fuse box closest to the driver's side edge (near the strut tower/battery). It might be one of the outermost relays in this area.
    • Positions can shift slightly, but it is rarely deep in the center of the box. Check the outermost relays first.

  3. Visual Identification: Once you suspect a relay:

    • Compare Shapes: Look for relays with the same physical shape and pin configuration.
    • Test Swap (If Safe): A common trick is to swap the fuel pump relay with an identical relay controlling a non-critical system (like the horn relay or rear defogger relay, if equipped and the same part number). If the car starts successfully after swapping, the original relay is likely bad. Crucially, only swap with a relay that appears physically identical and is confirmed to be the same part number (usually printed on the relay casing). Swapping dissimilar relays can cause damage.

What Does the 1995 Camry Fuel Pump Relay Look Like?

Expect a relay that is generally:

  • Shape: Square or rectangular cube.
  • Size: Approximately 1 inch (25mm) x 1 inch (25mm) to 1.5 inches (38mm) x 1.5 inches (38mm).
  • Color: Commonly black, but could be beige, white, or translucent.
  • Markings: Will have a Toyota part number printed on the top (e.g., 28300-XXXXX, 85940-XXXXX or similar format) and a rating like "12V", "30A" or "20A". The designation "C/OPN" might be molded into the plastic near the pins.
  • Pins: Has 4 or 5 blade-style pins on the bottom that plug into the socket.

How to Test the 1995 Camry Fuel Pump Relay

Before condemning the relay, testing is prudent. You'll need a basic multimeter.

  1. Access the Relay: Carefully pull the suspected fuel pump relay straight up and out of its socket.
  2. Identify the Terminals: Look at the bottom of the relay. The pins correspond to specific functions:
    • Pin 30: Constant Battery Power (+12V) - Supplied directly from the battery circuit, typically via a fuse.
    • Pin 87: Output to Fuel Pump (Load) - Supplies power to the pump only when the relay is activated.
    • Pin 85: Coil Ground - Provides the ground path for the relay's internal electromagnet coil. Activated by the ECM.
    • Pin 86: Coil Power (Trigger/Switch) - Receives a +12V signal from the ECM to activate the relay. In a 4-pin relay, Pins 85/86 are the coil.
    • A 5th pin (usually 87a) is rare for fuel pump relays and would be Normally Closed, not used in standard fuel pump circuits.
    • Identify Terminals: The relay socket or the relay itself might have tiny molded numbers (30, 85, 86, 87) next to the pins. If not, you will need a wiring diagram for the fuse box (found in a Repair Manual) or use continuity testing to map the socket.
  3. Testing Coil Circuit (Pins 85 & 86):
    • Set multimeter to Ohms (Ω) - resistance mode.
    • Place probes on Pin 85 and Pin 86.
    • You should get a reading other than "OL" (Open Loop) or infinity. A typical coil resistance might be 50Ω to 150Ω. Any continuity reading within a plausible coil range (not infinite resistance or zero resistance) suggests the coil circuit inside the relay is electrically intact. A reading of "OL" means the coil is broken. 0Ω usually indicates a short, but is rare.
  4. Testing Switch Circuit (Pins 30 & 87 - NORMALLY OPEN):
    • Set multimeter to Ohms (Ω) or Continuity/Diodes (symbol: ))) ).
    • Place probes on Pin 30 and Pin 87.
    • Key OFF: You should get "OL" (no continuity). This shows the switch is open when the relay is de-energized.
    • Testing Closed Position: To simulate activation, apply +12V to Pin 86 and Ground to Pin 85. You can use jumper wires connected to the battery terminals.
      • Caution: Be extremely careful not to touch the bare wire leads together or short to ground. Use clips if possible.
      • Apply +12V (Red jumper from Battery POS+) to Pin 86.
      • Apply Ground (Black jumper from Battery NEG-) to Pin 85. You should hear/feel a distinct click as the relay energizes.
      • With relay energized, measure between Pin 30 and Pin 87. You should now get a continuity reading (often 0Ω or very low Ohms). This confirms the internal switch contacts can close properly when the coil is activated. If you don't get continuity, the switch contacts are faulty.
  5. Bench Test Alternative:
    • After removing the relay, turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not crank). Listen carefully near the fuse box. You should hear several relays, including the fuel pump relay, click ON for about 2-3 seconds. The pump should also prime audibly. If you don't hear the relay click during the prime cycle, and you've confirmed it's getting power/ground (via multimeter at the socket while someone turns the key - see below), the relay is likely bad.

Testing Power at the Relay Socket

Often more practical than removing the relay initially:

  1. Verify Power to Pin 30 (Constant Power):
    • Set multimeter to DC Volts (20V range).
    • Place the Black probe on a known good chassis ground (bare metal bolt on body/frame).
    • With ignition OFF, carefully insert the Red probe into the back (wire side) of the relay socket cavity corresponding to Pin 30. You should read battery voltage (~12V+). If not, check the large fuse labeled "EFI" or "AM2" (often 15A or 20A) in the under-hood fuse box. If that fuse is blown, it points to a serious wiring or component short.
  2. Verify Power to Pin 86 (Trigger Signal) During Key ON:
    • Set multimeter to DC Volts.
    • Place Black probe on chassis ground.
    • Carefully insert Red probe into the cavity for Pin 86.
    • Have an assistant turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (not crank). For about 2-3 seconds, you should see a brief +12V signal appear on Pin 86. This is the ECM commanding the relay to activate. If you don't see power here when the key is turned ON, the issue could be the ECM, ignition switch wiring, or ECM power/grounds.
  3. Verify Ground to Pin 85:
    • Set multimeter to Continuity or Ohms.
    • Place Black probe on chassis ground.
    • Place Red probe on the cavity for Pin 85. You should get a good ground reading (very low Ohms, near 0Ω) with the ignition OFF. A loss of ground here prevents the relay from activating.
  4. Verify Output from Pin 87 During Key ON:
    • Set multimeter to DC Volts.
    • Place Black probe on chassis ground.
    • Place Red probe on the cavity for Pin 87.
    • Have an assistant turn the key to "ON". You should see battery voltage (~12V+) present for about 2-3 seconds at Pin 87 if the relay is activating correctly. If you have power at Pin 30, ground at Pin 85, the trigger signal at Pin 86, but no power comes out of Pin 87 during key ON, the relay contacts inside are likely burned out or stuck open.

Symptoms of a Failing 1995 Camry Fuel Pump Relay

  • Engine Cranks But Won't Start: This is the most common symptom. The starter turns the engine, but no fuel is delivered.
  • Intermittent Starting Problems: The car may start fine sometimes, but then fail to start inexplicably, especially when warm or after short trips. A failing relay can open its contacts when heated by engine bay temperatures.
  • Engine Stalls While Driving: A relay that intermittently drops out can cause the engine to suddenly stall without warning, often restarting after sitting for a few minutes (as the relay cools).
  • No Fuel Pump Prime Sound: When you first turn the ignition key to "ON" (before cranking), a healthy fuel system will run the pump for 2-3 seconds to prime the fuel lines. Listen near the rear seat or under the car near the tank. Absence of this priming sound is a key indicator of a relay, fuse, pump, or wiring issue. Check the relay first.
  • Constant Running Fuel Pump: If the relay contacts weld shut (less common but possible), the fuel pump will run continuously whenever the battery is connected, even with the ignition off. This drains the battery and poses a fire risk – disconnect the battery immediately if this happens and diagnose/replace the relay.

Replacing the 1995 Camry Fuel Pump Relay

  1. Confirm the Fault: Use the testing methods above to be reasonably sure the relay is faulty.
  2. Purchase Replacement: Obtain the correct replacement relay.
    • Best Method: Provide the old relay's Toyota part number to the parts store (e.g., 28300-XXXXX). Toyota dealers or reputable auto parts stores can cross-reference this.
    • Alternative: Use your VIN number at a Toyota dealer parts counter to get the exact relay.
    • Last Resort: If you can't get the exact part number, match the physical appearance (shape, size, pin layout) and ratings (voltage and amperage - e.g., 12V, 20A or 30A). Ensure the pin configuration is identical. Avoid cheap, generic relays; opt for OEM Toyota/Denso or reputable aftermarket brands (Denso, Bosch, Standard Motor Products).
  3. Install: With the ignition OFF, simply take the old relay out of its socket and firmly press the new relay into place, matching the pin orientation. Ensure it clicks down securely.
  4. Test: Turn the ignition to "ON" and listen for the 2-3 second fuel pump prime sound. If present, attempt to start the engine. Confirm normal operation.
  5. Secure: Replace the under-hood fuse box cover and close the hood.

Important Safety Precautions & Professional Advice

  • Disconnect the Battery: Before working around fuses and relays, especially testing with meters or probes, disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal. This prevents accidental shorts that can blow fuses or damage sensitive electronics like the ECM.
  • Fire Hazard: Fuel and electrical circuits are inherently risky. Avoid sparks or flames near the work area. Ensure you are working in a well-ventilated location. If you smell fuel strongly or see leaks, address those issues first before any electrical work.
  • Precision Matters: Be very careful when probing fuse box sockets. Use probes small enough to not bend or damage the socket contacts. Consider investing in dedicated fuse tap probes or back-probe pins for more reliable connections.
  • When in Doubt, Consult a Professional: Diagnosing electrical gremlins can be frustrating. If the tests outlined above seem complex, results are confusing, or the problem persists after relay replacement, consult a qualified automotive technician or an ASE-certified mechanic. They have advanced tools like wiring diagrams, scopes, and scan tools for deeper diagnosis of complex issues like ECM faults or wiring harness problems.
  • Don't Bypass the Relay: Connecting pins 30 and 87 with a wire or jumper to force the pump on is dangerous and should only be done very temporarily for testing pump operation while carefully monitoring the wire. Leaving this bypassed poses a significant fire risk (pump runs constantly, potentially overheating) and can damage wiring. Never drive with the relay bypassed.
  • Consider Whole Circuit Diagnosis: While the relay is a common failure point, remember it's part of a system. A failing pump drawing excessive current can prematurely kill a new relay. Blown fuses upstream of the relay need investigation into why they blew before replacing them with the correct amperage fuse.

Preventative Maintenance & Final Thoughts

While relay failure isn't predictable, paying attention to your Camry's starting characteristics and the fuel pump priming sound provides early warning. Avoid moisture intrusion into the fuse/relay box by ensuring the lid is properly sealed. Addressing corrosion on fuse and relay terminals when noticed helps maintain good electrical contact.

Locating and understanding the 1995 Toyota Camry fuel pump relay location inside the main under-hood fuse box is the foundation for solving many fuel-related no-start situations. Its role in powering the fuel pump makes it a critical component. By familiarizing yourself with its position, appearance, function, and simple testing procedures, you empower yourself to diagnose and often resolve this common failure point efficiently and safely. Always prioritize safety precautions, use the appropriate tools, and remember that persistent or complex problems warrant seeking professional expertise to ensure your reliable Camry stays on the road. For ultimate accuracy on your specific vehicle, always refer to the official 1995 Toyota Camry Repair Manual wiring diagrams and fuse/relay layouts.

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